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YOUR RESEARCHInstalling new springs - couple of questions
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Replace suspension expendable compenents, bushings and bearings
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I replaced all the suspension expendable compenents, bushings and bearings on a Jag XKE I had years ago and had to align both ends just to get it to an alignment shop.
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Suggestion
Can you accurately measure, loosen suspension mounting points, make adjustments, and check your work?
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Suggestion · Original poster
Did you guys change the bushings when you did a new suspension setup?
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Suggestion · Original poster
Every time you change a suspension component in a car, you have to get it aligned - Porsche or not.
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Suggestion · Original poster
That's not true - the springs need to settle, as do new struts and most especially bushings (if you replaced those).
Replace suspension expendable compenents, bushings and bearings
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I replaced all the suspension expendable compenents, bushings and bearings on a Jag XKE I had years ago and had to align both ends just to get it to an alignment shop.
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Suggestion · Original poster
People try to do this, and for a ghetto alignment it will work, but you have absolutely no idea what the actual camber, caster, and toe setting sare unless you use an alignment machine.
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Suggestion · Original poster
People try to do this, and for a ghetto alignment it will work, but you have absolutely no idea what the actual camber, caster, and toe setting sare unless you use an alignment machine.
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I got a set of H&R sport springs and I'm planning on installing them this weekend.
Are there any special tools that I need?
Did you guys change the bushings when you did a new suspension setup? I only have 20,000 miles on the car, but perhaps the strut bushings are worn.
Any other suggestions/tips?
Thanks,
- Anthony
talking alignment, I see people align their car 'manually' with a thread... is it possible to get good result doing that ?
in other word, can we align a car at home
?
I would NOT try an alignment at the house unless your house has a Hunter machine.
Do a search on here for changing out the springs. I recently put an X74 suspension on the car and had some help. Also researched it on RL before I dove in. Good Luck!
last weekend i talked a guy thru some of the steps on the phone - its really not that bad - you need some tools - spring clamp comes to mind and good selection of "regular tools"
there are step by step instructions but I just "winged it" and really its pretty easy to figure out.
when are you doing it? - also the guy has not called me back but his initial impression was the H&R's on stock struts was a little bounce? I didnt drive it so not sure what he meant - I had Eibach on mine and found them quite nice, doubt there is much diff
Like anything else, it depends on your mechanical ability/ apptitude. Can you accurately measure, loosen suspension mounting points, make adjustments, and check your work?
Alignment is not a black art, it's pretty easy and straight forward. If done at home in the driveway, it can be a rewarding experience. But a word of caution, it is critical to fully understand the process before going about it. I'm certain there are people that align cars professionally that have all the best equipment, yet don't really have a clue what they are doing. Give them levels, string, straight edges, tape measures, jacks and wrenches and they couldn't align a car for a million $.
I replaced all the suspension expendable compenents, bushings and bearings on a Jag XKE I had years ago and had to align both ends just to get it to an alignment shop. I decided to go one step further and dial it in to factory specs rather than getting it close. So the full alignment was done at home. 130mph hands off the wheel proved my results.
Years ago, I took the f & r suspension off my Jeep and did a 3.5" lift, new control arms, springs, shocks, track bar, etc. Driveway alignment worked perfect, handles superb, very even tire wear. 65k miles is proof that it can work.
Another point, is if you understand alignment and how to accomplish what you want, you realize the factory spec is a one size fits all recommendation. You won't go too far wrong using this, but it may not be right for you either. You can tweek it to get what you want and improve the car. This is true for everything else as well, ride height, tire pressures, sway bar diameters and settings.
I may try and do it today actually, since I have nothing else to do. I am wondering if I should replace any of the wear items though since I'll have the suspension apart, but I do only have 20,000 miles so they may not need to be replaced.
I've done lots of suspensions before so I'm not really too worried. I have a spring compressor, a spindle spreader tool (although I don't think I need that for this car), and a full selection of regular tools.
I've read numerous threads about lifting the 996 to put it jackstands, and I don't feel comfortable lifting via the motor. I think I'm going to put the front on jackstands, then keep the rear in the air with two floor jacks, and then put two jack stands under the rear suspension crossmember as a fail-safe.
I'll take pictures and post back when I'm done.
- Anthony
People try to do this, and for a ghetto alignment it will work, but you have absolutely no idea what the actual camber, caster, and toe setting sare unless you use an alignment machine. The cost of wear on your tires will be more than just spending $100 to get a real alignment.
After installing a suspension though, wait a week or two for everything to settle before you go get an alignment.
- Anthony
should be "cake" for you
took me 30 minutes ea in the rear to take out and mount (not including bench time) and a little over an hour ea up front (again no bench time) - I bought my replacements pre assembled
when you do the upgrade, try to take a couple pictures for us
I want to upgrade my suspension and I think I 'll bring it to the shop, hoping to have it aligned at the same time.
About your remark to wait until it settle, does it means that I should do another alignment a few weeks after ?
I am curious to see a diy on suspension replacement. I want to replace mine with PSS10, I like the idea of adjustable suspensions.
That's not true - the springs need to settle, as do new struts and most especially bushings (if you replaced those).
I just finished this (it took about 6 hours working alone), and aligning the rear shock was the hardest part of the whole process. You really need two people to do that, but I managed to do it alone. A true pry-bar would have made everything go a lot easier.
As for the drop - it is perfect. I think the rear could be maybe .25" higher, but it definitely looks good. I'd put it at factory GT3 height, maybe a tad lower. With my GT3 fitment wheels, it looks amazing. I'll post some pics tomorrow.
- Anthony
did you take a couple of picture during the project ?
Would have been interesting.
Is there any PSS suspension installation DIY guide online ? I don't think I can handle the job, but it would be nice to understand what it entails before going to the shop.
About the bushing how many miles are they supposed to last... under normal driving conditions?
I have a set of H&R springs in the box with spring compressor tools....am hesistant to start the job, have done it before on my audi an NSX and a few VW....but the alignment stuff has me a bit wary of tackling this job especially with PSM.
It's not much different than a VW, or any other suspenion setup, honestly.
I don't know why the alignment would concern you? Every time you change a suspension component in a car, you have to get it aligned - Porsche or not.
Hey ADG44 - I've got my H&R's and leaning towards putting them in myself, too. I am not much of a mechanic but.....
I am waiting for your instructions. And, good luck!
BTW I have searched Renntech and here for step by step directions and haven't found any.......does anyone have a link?
Mine is a C4 S, so I got the front drive shaft to deal with, too
There is a write-up on RennTech under M030 Suspension Install, and it's decent.
I will say this, you need some special tools to get the suspension done, and a pry-bar would make the rear suspension a LOT easier.
This is a requirement:
Upper Strut Nut Tool - $42 from
German Auto Parts
. It allows you to remove the strut nut while you pass a 7mm hex bit through the opening of the tool to hold the strut from spinning.
Even with that, you need a 21mm deep 1/2" drive socket to "break" the strut nut loose while the suspension is installed and on the ground. Mine were almost seized on, so this was a requirement.
I'll post up a full install hopefully later tonight.
- Anthony
Anthony, I am also eager to see your step by step
I am planning to put some PSS10 in the car, and the dealer want to charge me $700 for it, so I figured that DIY could save me a bunch...At least pay for the tool I will need to purchase
Lol
If I may, it would be great to take pics of the 'special' tool required.
Good luck with this
Couple pennies........when I put the X74 on my C4 I had to loosen up several bolts / parts underneath on the front carriage in order to swing the entire shock ***'y out.
I would be chopping springs though.
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