New radio install into cluster **** prior install

Alright so......I'm not certain how to being this thread other than saying I'm super confused to what the last owner did to the stereo when he replaced it. I recently bought the Pioneer DMH-W3000NEX mainly for the wireless apply Carplay. I have done a lot of car stereos back in the day, so I figured this was going to be straight forward, however it so far is not. Below is a list of things that I have seen so far that don't make sense. The factory OEM amp isn't being used, however.....it seems there is no amp being used at all, so I assume the head unit that they put in (which is a Pioneer AVIC-D3), was just pushing it's own power?? There are still cables coming off of, what I assume, is an aftermarket disc changer and XM module? I looked up the part numbers for OEM ones, and this is not the factory one. The disc changer is a Pioneer CDX-FM687, and attached to it was a Pioneer GEX-P920XM for the sat radio So cables were coming off of the XM module only, and not the disc changer. There is a whole mess of cables in the head unit area (picture attached and labeled), that I went ahead and traced the aftermarket power with the factory wiring to know what was doing what when it comes to the wiring. I looked at the aftermarket Pioneer head unit manual and was able to determine what I need and don't need based off of that, wiring wise I don't care about a good amount of wires for this new head unit, namely: Reverse Sat radio Antenna (which might be the sat radio? No idea) ILL (maybe I do care about it, but it wasn't hooked in the last head unit and it worked, so idk I assume it doesn't matter) There was also a Bluetooth wireless adapter box shoved behind the head unit, part number CD-BTB200 Not sure what that was doing, but I guess the other aftermarket unit that was installed didn't have onboard Bluetooth There was some super weird pigtails on pigtails that just make no sense, like random leads going one direction, which also splitting into other directions without any rhyme or reason. At this point, my main goals are the following: Just get simple power to the new unit to see it turn on Figure out where the factory speaker wiring is going to so I know what speaker is what in the head unit cut out area Determine if I need to get a new amp I assume I do, and if so, anyone have any suggestions? Un-**** the rat's nest that is whatever the last owner did I will basically take this back down to whatever the factory setup WOULD have been, so speaker connections, connection going to factory amp (if it still exists), etc. Questions that I have: Do I need any sort of bezel kit to make this fit any better? The old unit fit well, and when I did a test fit, the new one does have some wiggle room. Does the DMH-W3000NEX even fit in here? I searched around and saw some people did it, but I sort of bought it on a whim and thought "double din? Cool, the other one fit, so I'm good!", which is absolutely my fault for sure. I posted some pictures below, if anyone wants to go ahead and help out with just pointing random things out that I might be overlooking. Thanks!! Rat's nest from hell XM module attached to disc changer Disc changer (aftermarket, I assume) Cables coming off of XM module Rats nest from hell part 2 Rats nest from hell part 3 Rats nest from hell part 4 Aftermarket head unit I pulled Bluetooth module UPDATE 1 Total hack job going on, either that or I’m just woefully unfamiliar with how things are done on a Porsche. Cut cables from the last install that were not factory, and traced the cabling back to the OEM amp. I guess they just don’t care about an amp……it’s blowing my mind that they just cut cables and bypassed it all. UPDATE 2 Going to bed after typing this, but looking into some other diagrams, it seems that power is coming from fuse D9 (15A) for the OEM AMP, which at this point is useless to even think about get running again. Does anyone know what that thin WHITE/RED cable does? Wiring diagram says DIAGNOSIS, and that is goes to CP157 13/E3. Here is the link to the wiring diagram I am using for the OEM AMP. https://www.renntech.org/uploads/post-2-1120947501.gif Not certain what the actual purpose of that lead is, maybe telling the ECU when there is / was a fault? Next step now that I have things better mapped out is going to be shopping for some AMP's that I can then tie the factory speaker cables into and then route cabling back into the cab to hook to the new head unit. I still feel like im in over my head, but at least I'm having fun lol.

No help, but I�m going through a similar process. I removed 40lbs worth of aftermarket amp, disc changer and wiring from the frunk. I have the same bypass/cut going to the black two row wiring harness in frunk so I�m thinking that is standard. Will pull head unit soon to investigate behind dash.

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honestly this seems like it will be straight forward once the other stuff is taken care of. Speaker wire to the new amp. Supply it with power. Route RCA to the head unit area, plug it all up. Boom, head unit will work.

Probably would have easy until I cut out all the old aftermarket wiring to the firewall. I�m not an audiophile by any means, probably will go with a retro stock look or simple CarPlay unit. something like this may work: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_068GRA....html?tp=49934 Definitely not a fan of the current head unit.

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I really thought that I was going to go back to a normal radio, however I do really like having car play literally just for my music or GPS if I want to. So I wanted the apply car play literally luckily I don�t need any of the other stuff like antenna, GPS, XM, steering wheel controls, reverse, speed, etc. it�s a very straight forward install now that I was able to un-DaVinci code whatever the last person did lol.

I’m rockin’ an inexpensive, but great sounding, Kenwood unit. I used some matte black vinyl tape to nock down the extra shiny bits. Doesn’t scream MODERN in place. Easy to wire up as I used all new cable runs for power/speaker/RCA.

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When you say you did all new cable runs, I assume you went to the speaker connections in the frunk, sent it to an amp, then RCA to the head unit yeah? Did you use power from the factory pigtail in the radio area of the car? I think I know what I need to do, just good to ask while im doing it. Looks great!

If you can remove all the 3rd party cables that were added by the previous owner and get back to the wiring that was initially in the car, you may be able to cross reference pretty easily to the wiring as described in the PCCM + installation guides. There is at least one thread in this forum that has pictures that guide through installation of the PCCM+/ I realize you may not be installing the PCCM+, however the pictures and discussion about wiring may be helpful. I did install the PCCM+ in my 1999 C2, and installation was cake, including connecting to the pre existing frunk AMP, which is still working. I de installed the CD player and stored it in a box, since there is no input for it in the new head unit. But I use Carplay now so it is not needed. Good luck

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Thanks! Third party cables are all out now and the picture of much more clear on what is actually needed / going on / butchered from that last install. For sure was daunting at first but after doing some research and finding the wiring diagrams it was pretty straight forward. Luckily speaker wiring and cabling isn�t something that can brick the whole car, just some simple logical and cable tracing and making sure ohms and such are good to go. I�ll def look up that install guide for the PCCM for a better look into the factory wiring.

Not trying to hijack your thread Gabagool, but seems a fitting spot for the question. Haven't pulled this out yet, but based on carpet texture difference and fading I don't believe this is OEM. My assumption is there's a massive sub back there but need confirmation before I start ripping crap out. (2003 coupe if that matters).

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Power came from a fuse tap in the main fuse box. New speaker cables to the front speakers from the head. RCAs to an amp on the floor behind the passenger seat and a self-contained sub on the floor behind the driver seat. New speaker cables from the amp to the back speakers. Link to a brief description of my installation: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post20530135

Got er done! Sounds fantastic. Mounted the new amp in the frunk, cut everything aftermarket out and rewired the speakers to the amp, then RCA to the new head unit. I have to clean up the trim area, but I�ll be buying some abs sheets, measuring 30 times, cutting once and then likely twice after I mess the first sheet up. Such is life.

Alrighty, for anyone that is interested, I made an excel sheet for the wiring for the speakers. I also made a sheet of the setup I did (minus my wire colors) so that anyone can recreate. It isn't hard! Just takes time to make it neat. Hopefully everyone finds it useful! Some notes: Make sure your amp can handle a parallel setup. Some amps cant, but most amps can Your door speakers are BASS ONLY. Seriously, it isn't like they are mostly bass with some mid and treble, its literally bass specific. Once you have the proper setup though, they sound fantastic! For the wiring below, my amp is a multi-zone amp (Kicker 46CXA360.4) meaning it has 2 amp's within it, more or less. Channel 1 & 2 run off of AMP1 (treble and mid) and Channel 3 & 4 run off of AMP2 (bass only). This allows me to fine tune things like freq, gain, bass boost, etc. so that I have the best listening specs for the sound zone I am working with. You can 100% just delete the rear's, as in terminate the connectors instead of running them to your amp. Take some 16 gauge heat shrink, slip it over, leave a little extra past the tip, heat er up to mold it to the wire, and then take some small pliers and close the end so that the exposed wire isn't showing anymore. Easy way to keep the wire in case you want to use it in the future, but closed off so nothing shorts. In this case, it really can't short unless it was super close to your amp, but the pos & neg of the speaker wire would have to touch the right things to make it happen. At the end of the day, it is just a useless wire with no power, so no danger to the speaker if it is flopping around as long as you cut the end. The only reason I chose to not delete the rear's is because I already changed the rear's out when I first got the car and heard some buzzing. I told my wife I was going to just remove that zone and she said "But you just spent 80$ on those!" so here I am....with the speakers blasting away lol. I included the power setup that I used for my new head unit (Pioneer DMH-W3000NEX) I got this head unit mostly cause the wireless apple car play and it wasn't like crazy expensive (420$). I could care less about having the hands free talking (I don't talk when I'm driving the 911), navigation (I can do that from my phone with apple car play), radio (I can use iHeart if I so desire) or steering wheels controls (literally we don't have that anyway lol) If there are any questions about the setup, just let me know! I love doing this stuff, and haven't gotten to do this in probably 15 years since I was in high school, so it really was a blast getting to do it all again. Standard wiring diagram and path Parallel setup Power wiring

HI a couple of questions.... 1. GABAGOOL what year and model 996 is getting this radio head upgrade? I have a 2002 C4 Cabrio and wonder if the wiring follows the same color coding... And, 2. Where are folks buying the cubby tray inserts to replace the cassette or CD storage tray that may be in your particular 911? My "02 is stuck in the cassette age! It appears the bottom tray is more rounded at the bottom than the on that goes in the top position - or are they both the same cubby tray? Thanks Jeff

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Hey Jeff! So this is for a 2003 coupe. I know that I have READ the coupe and cab are different when it comes to the audio, not certain about the wiring color codes though. Do you have dash, door, and rear speakers? If so, I would assume the color codes would be the same given that no manufacturer wants to change drawings and wiring diagrams for something simple like that. As for the tray, honestly no idea. I have seen it on pelicanparts and have been thinking of doing it to get rid of the CD holder, but it�s not a high pri for me right now. Highly recommend just going there and searching through the interior parts. They have drawings for everything and you�ll be able to easily tell what�s up.

@Gabagool - thanks for taking the time to make and post the wiring color codes - I may need them soon!

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Pelican parts also has the breakdown on the pins as well. I like this version myself. My radio appears like the Kenwood you are pulling out. Darned confusing piece of sh*t with a remote control as if your going to place it in your lap. IMHO https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...stallation.htm

As this was a March post I would imagine all of this is sorted. I see someone posted a wiring harness helper so no need to add. Any Double DIN unit with the correct measurements will fit. I posted what I did with mine...also, this car had another Double DIN unit in it but from 2012....needed an update bad. this is a 99 C4 Cabrio Kenwood Excelon DMX958XR Super bright display (I have a Cabrio) also not the swap with AC controller

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mine is not playing the left channel, so at sometime I will have to dig into it.