How to make Oil Filter canister non-by-pass

Another easy way to make your oem oil filter canister a non bypass filter. For me this is desirable using a *w x 50 oil or even a 60 oil for racing or spirited around town canyon carving.. As PT3 has noted, at cold starts the oil filter bypass can open slurping in all the debris contained at the bottom of filter canister blasting directly into the main oil gallery/engine bearings. Or a combination of a plugged filter (with debris from something coming apart in engine) and a cold start. So for me its a no brainer to disable oil filter bypass (don't confuse this with oil pump bypass, very different ). As long as a good quality full flow filter cartridge, with a sturdy plastic cage, is used, that canister/cartridge can withstand any pressure it might see on the coldest days here in Florida or probably anywhere else... First, pull out the bypass valve with a long pair of needle nose pliers. It pulls right out with a little pressure. Next, remove the plunger and spring by squeezing the tangs together to dislodge the spring from plunger tangs. With a small dremel tool sanding wheel, grind off the valves plastic 'spring seat' that sticks up about .025" on the bottom of black plastic valve housing. This lets the washer lay totally flat on bottom of valve housing. I used some small washers, screw & nut with grey silicone adhesive sealer on both washers and red locktite on screw threads and nut. Assemble washers on both sides of valve housing and secure tightly with nut&screw with lots of red locktite. I also staked the screw/nut with a punch so it would not unscrew. Was going to use a nylock nut but wasn't sure of the possible �300 oil temps possible and the nylock heat tolerance properties... Just to show what it looks like when its in filter. Now just snap blocked off modified valve housing back into bottom of filter canister and you're ready to finish oil change... Any ideas of why this won't work well please explain...