Trackdays - ABS - to be or not to be

I've got an upcoming trackday - first one i'm doing in a car (been doing trackdays for years on my bike) and have a couple of questions: 1. ABS - what's the deal? do i need to disconnect? and if so, how do i on the 996? 2. mirrors, lights, etc? Do I need to tape them? 3. Helmet - will they accept the same shoei x-11 helmet i use on the bike? I mean, the bike helmet is built for a worse crash i would think... Any other recommendations, etc? anyone with experience in both tell me how they're different? I've been to this racetrack (mosport in canada) many times before on the bike, but what should i expect in a car?

1) no; don't disconnect. when you brake, try not to engage it; it will increase your braking distances. 2) up to you; can't hurt 3) not usually. you need snell SA cert rather than M. difference is that SA is fire retardant. in my experience, guys who have ridden on tracks pick up driving VERY quickly. limey940 should have some thoughts; he taught bike racing techniques. we brought him to the track and he got fast VERY quickly. a very beneficial exercise we did was 'follow the leader'; he'd follow me around the track & i'd go a little quicker on each successive lap.

1. You will want ABS connected. Nothing to be gained in my opinion by disconnecting. 2. Tape them if you want, it will prevent rock chips. This is personal preference, I've seen everything to the entire front end and all leading edges covered in tape to nothing which is what I do. 3. Most clubs will require a Snell SA rated helmet which is different from a Snell M (motorcycle) one. I believe the main differences are resistance to fire, rollbar impact test and eyeport size. Also make sure it is current as they expire after a number of years. Prepare to have a great time, it's addicting.

You do not want to disconnect ABS. Ever. As stated above avoid invoking ABS as braking distances will be longer than proper threshold braking. If you have daytime running lights do not tape over the ones that stay on, otherwise it is up to you. Don't use duct tape though. You'll have a bitch of a time getting the glue off afterwards. Hint WD-40 is the best solvent for duct tape glue. Some event organizers demand SA helmets, others like my PCA region accept SA and SM helmets but they must be Snell 2000 or newer, if BSI (FIA approved) the helmet must be less than 10 years old. Have fun (you will!)

Leave it on. ABS will prevent bald spots. If you want to look like a goober (j/k of course) Some people do it, but I stopped long ago under the theory that, if something hits your car hard enough to break your lights, a piece of blue tape isn't going to help. Getting chips in the front bumper (or other places) comes with the territory... As I understand it, bike helmets are designed with a particular type and direction of impact in mind. Car helmets are designed for all directions. This might be completely wrong, but I've heard it a few times from different people. I have not done any research to confirm or deny it though. -td

Thanks guys - much appreciated.

here's a video of a friend at road atlanta who thought his ABS was increasing his braking distances by kicking in too early. he pulled the fuse and went for a hot lap. hilarity ensues. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ex1Rzua4Xa8

An absolutely ideal ABS modification IMMHO would be to disable ABS entirely until/unless PSM actuates one of the brake pressure on/off control solenoids. Until PSM activates there is generally no requirement for ABS. A second viable modification would be to prevent front braking altogether unless/until brake fluid pressure reaches an "excessive" level and/or ABS should activate indicating impending rear wheel lockup.

1. Absolutely ABS... It will save your A** 2. Hell no..... 3. I wouldn't but check with your club to see if they have any issues with using your bike helmet...

Quotes source post: 5658519

"It will save your A**.." Or potentially terminate it......!! ABS activation will ALWAYS extend your stopping distance/time, and that is a GOOD thing if directional control is threatened. But suppose loss of directional control was NEVER a threat but stopping distance was/is a factor..?? I would think the best option, track option, would be the ability for FULL braking, no ABS intervention, and then brake release for directional corrections or directional deviations.

Disconnecting ABS in these cars is very bad. It will severly change the brake bias and you will be putting yourself in a dangerous position. Overly activating the ABS system causes the brake fluid temp rates to skyrocket and makes your pedal very soft. Eventually, it will just go to the floor. Not every corner is a threshold corner, so change your driving style. The Koni teams go with a different ABS computer, rather than disconnecting it. Wouldn't you love to know why?