Optimizing gas consumption around town

I have a Triptronic, so don't shoot. My Trip shifts into 5th at 35mph and 1200 RPM, which is nowhere ideal to me and highly prone to lugging. Instead I use the manual option and use 4th gear to bring the RPM's up around 2000 at 35mph. Even there I shift it down to 3rd when going up a long hill. Being a newbie to Porsche cars, I wanted to get feedback on what RPM range should I think of sustaining that won't lug the engine down and provide the better gas consumption at low speeds (25 - 45mph). I know it has to be wound tight to provide the best performance, but I have found little information optimizing the RPM range for just driving around town. With gas prices having risen so high again and trouble with either my O2 sensors or the Cat's killing my mileage (45mi per 1/4 tank), not the ideal environment for optimizing mileage, but this issue will be corrected before the end of the month. So now I just grit my teeth and my wallet open wide until then. Nonetheless I am curious to see what feedback everyone has to offer. Everything is welcome except for 'suck it up, you bought the wrong car' type replies if you don't mind. I've always been able to eek out more mileage than the EPA numbers and magazine test results such as my 28mpg on the highway and around 23mpg driving around town in it prior to the CEL lighting up. So ignore my current CEL woes as a factor.

I hope you're not actually driving your car around in its current state. All that excess fuel will wash away the oil from your cylinder walls, possibly leading to bore score. As for the concerns about driving style and fuel economy, I keep my manual 996 around 3000 rpms because I also want to avoid lugging the engine. And because I've found that it's the zone where the cooling system is most efficient: the water pump is flowing fast and the engine isn't generating too much heat. With the cost of a replacement or rebuilt M96 being so obscene, I prioritize maintaining the health of my engine over any fuel economy concerns. I don't think it's possible save enough money via fuel management to offset the cost of an engine.

Yeah, I would run a bottle of techron in your fuel next time you fill up to clean it up. New fuel injectors do wonders for fuel economy. As @996love mentioned, you want to make sure you aren't drowning your cylinders with fuel. Quickest way to bore scoring.

Most effective will be to get the engine running correctly. Then you want to minimise pumping losses by opening the throttle as much as possible without the DME richening the mixture, I.e. you want to stay on part load (lambda sensor signal swinging around 1). I have no idea what gas pedal angle that is, though. Also you want to keep revs as low as possible to reduce energy loss through friction between all the moving parts inside the engine. Your tiptronic is doing this for you by shifting into higher gears quickly, as you've noticed. However, this is contrary to how you'd drive for maximum engine longevity, as others already mentioned. Leave your A/C off. Increase tyre pressure to the spec for a fully laden vehicle. Look far, far ahead and minimise braking. Coast with transmission in N, when it is safe to reduce speed approaching a stop or when cruising on the highway. Drive slower than the speed limit allows, whilst not being a hindrance to other traffic, because dangerous.

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I am driving it in the current state. The best reputed Porsche shop in the area told me to just keep driving it with the CEL, that it would be too expensive to repair, but I bet they based that on the shoddy exterior paint condition it was in and likely assumed I wouldn't be able to afford the repair. Wrong answer fellas. The issue will be resolved in 2 weeks at the most. I wholly agree with your assessment of possible engine issues. I'm familiar with engine lugging issues and have avoided it at any cost on every vehicle I've owned since I was 17. That's the reason I go into manual operation often. I don't much care for the Triptronics shift ranges. However there are sweet pots in the range that will both avoid the engine lugging and optimizing the fuel economy. I prefer not go under 2000 rpm on the flat. 4th rides in that range at 35 mph and I use it at 45 mph as well. On the highway I'm in mid 3000 range in the 70 - 80 mph range where it's currently gotten the best mileage (28 mpg) in the mid 70 mph range (Oh. how I want to go to Texas or other areas of the mid-west where the limit is 80+) Nonetheless, I'm simply interested if anyone has made the effort and what techniques they may have used. It doesn't hurt to ask and I'll learn something in the process. This is my first Porsche

I also have a Tiptronic. 28 MPG is better than I have managed. The best I have done is 24.8 MPG on the highway at a steady 65 MPH. I get around 20 MPG on my commute which is a mix of streets and freeway in Los Angeles. I rarely use the manual mode. Recently, I used a bottle Techron and it raised the milage about 0.5 MPG so it does help, at least if your injectors are dirty.

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All good tips with the exception of the Tip comment. Shifting into 5th, running around 1200 rpm at 35 mph is absurd and shouldn't even be part of it's operating range. I downshift into 4th and run a tad over 2000 instead, 3rd gear if the traffic hits 30 mph or so. But also I spend over half my time driving it out on the winding roads outside town. The town is at best 3 miles from one end to the other I'm not to sure about the comment about coasting in N though. My understanding is that can be damaging to the transmission at any speed. Placing a manual in 'N' is workable although you better hit the rpm's right putting it back into gear. I can' stand idiots who downshift by just dropping the clutch instead of matching the rpm to the downshift. (I miss heal and toe action)

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I suggest that you are overreacting to the low rpm. The stall speed of the torque converter is higher than 1200 (1800 or so, IIRC). With this in mind, when the rpm is 1200 the engine is not highly loaded. If it was the RPM would rise to the stall speed of the torque converter, and perhaps a downshift would (way too lazily) occur.

Apart from driving slowly out of my neighborhood in the morning while the engine warms up I don�t think I ever have the engine below 2,500 RPM and it�s usually around 3k when just cruising. I think I average around 18 MPG driving the car to work and back every day. I don�t drive like a lunatic but the engine definitely is exercised fully. I figure it probably costs me an extra $15 a week in gas driving the way I do but it seems to offer more peace of mind than being worried about lugging the engine and low oil pressure. The only real �economy� sports car I have had is a Corvette� that thing would get better than 30mpg at 70mph, it was just ticking over at 1,500 rpm though. But totally different sort of engine.

I don�t think dropping to neutral has saved fuel in any vehicle since the 90s. Modern EFI will see vacuum in the intake and pull a ton of fuel out on decel, using less than if the car was at idle. The torque converter and shift programming already has the car at low RPM. The small amount of parasitic loss the engine IS putting on the drivetrain is savings you make by not idling, and even moreso if you do have the AC on, where that back-driving runs the AC and all the PS and alternator accesories as well. Caveman EFI or carburetors wouldn�t know better and would dump fuel in, and there could be savings, but coast to decel is more efficient in the modern era. There must be a myth busters on this one .

True, on deceleration and foot off the gas pedal no fuel is injected but coasting while idling in N keeps speed up for longer and you travel a greater distance at the smallest amount of fuel per combustion cycle compared to keeping it in D and foot off the gas. If you can look ahead and anticipate far enough this 'coasting in N' saves fuel by operating the engine in a range that is on average (bad at idle while coasting in N ftom 60 to 55mph + ok on ~60% throttle and low revs when accelerating from 55 to 60mph) more efficient since the engine on average has higher volumetric efficiency compared to keeping it at 57mph and steady, light throttle. It is exactly this what is achieved when V8's are operated as a 4 cylinder under light cruising. I admit it is a very theoretical consideration and very dependant on knowing which combo of revs and load has the lowest specific fuel consumption of the engine, as well as being able to anticipate sufficiently as to not having to brake. In that sense, yeah it's one for the mythbusters. One step further would be to switch off the engine (keep the key on accessories position sobit can't fall out...) while in N and start on the starter motor when it's time to accelerate again (or out of gear in a manual transmission and bump start the engine in 5th or 6th). In reality, looking ahead, medium acceleration at low revs and not braking are the major contributors to reducing fuel consumption. Lastly, if brakes must be applied, then instead of turning the speed of the vehicle solely into heat, one should switch on the A/C (at full blast) in order to use some of that energy to drive the A/C compressor and switch it off when back on the gas.

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It hasn't chugged so far. I simply don't feel comfortable with it barely 500 rpm above idle speed. All my experience with chugging at this rpm has been with manual transmissions. I don't want to take any chance on possible accumulated damage to the engine. I'm not ready to rebuild/replace it any earlier than 2nd quarter '27. I appreciate the information and will give it a try a time or two.

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I'm with you there. I warm it up much like you, under 3k. Once it is, 2k is as low as I get, but if that is not temporary I'll manually downshift to bring it up into the 3k range. Other than my '79 RX-7, I've not owned anything that could be considered a performance car. Fortunately I've never been forced into a van or SUV before the boys moved out. I can see a van having versatility, but owning a SUV that never leaves a public paved highway or owning a truck that never hauls a load that larger than what fits in car is a step too far for me.

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A side effect of not looking ahead and merely watching the road a car length or two ahead is a working recipe for weaving from side to side to the very lane borders, not to mention it appears the driver has had too many drinks to be driving. Driving smoothly without having to tap the brake or accelerate is the way to go. I absolutely love the responsiveness of my car, where letting off the gas throws you forward as much as a mild acceleration, even more impressive with an automatic. It's major factor in not using the brakes far less than the other car in my garage.

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Fuel injectors, spark plugs and O2 sensors were replaced in the last 30 days I've actually had it (not counting time in the shop to be repainted). New O2 sensors are on order to swap out before ordering and replacing the CAT's. I want to get this issue resolved as quickly as I can get the parts on hand to try and fix it. While I am using the car, I've not drive more than 150 miles since the CEL light came on. The odds that the AOS will fail and kill the engine on the short drives are far more likely than bore scoring. It's been basically parked since the CEL came on and the shop didn't fix it. I may drive it a short distance two days in a row, but for most of that time it's been every other day on a 4 mile round trip to AutoZone for parts to fix other minor problems it has where the replacement part doesn't require an OEM level part to fix (bulbs, fuses, coolant, funnel and the like plus a chance to spend some time shooting the breeze with the staff). I still need to drive my other car often enough to keep the battery charged up. A hybrid has to have a functional 12v battery to start. The internal battery isn't effected sitting. (Oh, on that note if anyone has a hybrid or a friend with the internal battery dead, a battery from GreenBean is 20% the cost of the dealers replacement.(Toyota wanted 9,999 to replace it. It was replaced for 1,850 with the tech coming directly to me on a Sunday spending only 45 minutes to complete the swap, included in the price paid))

If you want to save fuel then 4 mile round trips are not the way to go. Neither are they from an engine wear standpoint. Also, instead of driving your 2nd car merely to charge the battery, use a battery charger. Consider the recently replaced O2 sensors to work properly. They are not the problem, they show the problem. What code causes the CEL? A cat that no longer converts does not increase fuel consumption. Only a (partially) blocked cat does so. Is that what you are assuming? Based on what, if I may ask?

With all that changed, has the CEL been reset? Often it won�t turn itself off.

Asking for torque at low RPMs on the M9x engine is a surefire way to kill it. Keep the RPMs above 3K whenever you are pressing on the loud pedal. Probably harder to do in a tip car but you said you use manual mode so that should be good.

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The CEL is incidental to the post question. I should have never mentioned it because it is hijacking this thread. I'm not talking about optimizing mpg with the CEL lit. It would be nonsensical to even consider it. I'm referring to an engine that is running correctly as mine was previously. I averaged between 18 and 21 around town and 28 on the highway. I'm simply interested in the input and techniques employed. I kept my rpm around 3k with an occasional run up to 5.5k dependent on my direction of travel and road. 100 yards, 5k. 35mph 3.1k or so level and uphill. I'm not trying to get 66 mpg as I did once in my hybrid. We're talking about a high performance car and expectations of high mpg is absurd. However eeking out an addition 1 mpg is all I can expect. I've had my Porsche all of 5 weeks. So I am climbing up the hill to literacy. I'd rather ask inane questions even if it makes me look like a moron. People tend to be more descriptive than curt. I don't know the 'Porsche' lingo enough to interpret some responses. Keep in mind, the only dumb question is the one you don't ask. The forum search functionality isn't that helpful on some questions. I'd rather read a question and solution that already exists than ask a new question. It's not as annoying to the members who read it to see the same question asked again and again. And I do try not to be annoying. I don't appreciate annoying

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I found the MAF to be loose and not secured properly yesterday. So I reset the CEL and it didn't come back on after a spirited drive. However it came back on this morning. I've got another post dealing with the CEL that I'm seeking possible areas that may effect the issue to narrow down just what is causing the issue. After all, I am not really enthused to replace the CAT's at 2k or so each. But if it comes down to it I will. I will not drive a car with the CEL light continuously on, especially this one. I want it resolved by mid-month at the latest. It's been three weeks now and I'm definitely not happy with it. It's ruined my day since. re: The previous poster mentioned the 4 mile round trip to the auto store is not good. I know. 10 or 12 trips is not enough to begin to cause any damage. But habitually, no. If not for the CEL, I drive the car the way a Porsche should be driven. Hard

Optimizing fuel consumption ?/ Tape a raw Egg to the gas and brake pedal.. Air up tires to 60 PSI Set Toe/Camber to "0" degrees... Turn OFF engine at Stop Lights.. Restart on Green Place Transmission in Neutral when going down-hill....re-engage in gear when level.. You ARE kidding right ?? All jokes aside.... Just "Drive and Enjoy!!!" ....

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Driving 35 is annoying. Especially when the Trip shifts into 5th on the flat and even keeps it there for small inclines left in automatic mode. Now I'll still drive it in auto, but pop it over to manual to use a gear that's more appropriate to the situation. Driving at 1200 rpm is indeed a recipe for lugging a engine and a sure fire way to kill an engine. That we both agree strongly on. I haven't done that in the last 50 years. When I was first learning to drive, Dad would smack me aside the head each time it would happen. Since I didn't care to have my ears swatted, i learned pretty darn quick how to keep it from happening. Perhaps a V8 could deal with it, but I've never driven one before. When you come from a line of 4 cylinder cars, under 2k is simply not an option. Previous to asking the question I was running in the 2k to 2.5k range, downshifting manually if it began to drop under 2k. I've only had the car 5 weeks and a quite a lot more learning ahead of me yet. With the information here, I'm going to adjust my range to 3 - 4k. But if someone has a technique that gets me an additional 1 mpg, that's great. Expecting a high performance car to get great mileage is a fantasy Low rpm doesn't always translate to better mileage. Low rpm can induce lugging or cause an increased use of the loud pedal to go faster with a subsequent loss of any advantage to any mpg gain a lower rpm range theoretically would give you. Coasting in Neutral is a sure way to damage an automatic, so that's now a workable option. I don't want to fork any cash for an engine this year with all the updates to the underpinning mechanics I have planned. The cars body and suspension has got 92k on it, but only 60k on the current engine. I'd rather concentrate on the bushings, suspension, shocks and mounts this year before I drive it from SC to CA with lots of stops in Nevada and Arizona for cruising through the National Parks, then head up into Alaska, coming back through the northern route through Wyoming and the flat lands of corn and wheat ahead. I love the contrast of coming down out of the mountains into the short section of desert into the greenery in Wyoming. I rode though once with my parents and siblings in a 66 Volkswagen Camper in '68 and '69. I want repeat the experience from the drivers seat this time, in this car to have the ride of my life. The wife isn't coming. She want to stay in hotels. I plan on just bringing a tent, stove and percolator on the cheap and socialize with like minded people who rather be in the outdoors and not a sterile hotel room. Wish me luck!

Here you go. No secret. You can cross check with what you have already done. You want properly functioning used or better yet new parts that arent 25 years old. Check AFR. 1. Fuel injectors 2. Plugs/coils 3. MAF 4. Oxy sensors 5. Run the highest quality high moly/high viscosity 40 oil you can afford. My recommendation is DI40. Bring a couple of extra bottles in case you need it. Drive like you mean it above 3k rpm. Since you are looking to drive across country, make sure you have a new ignition switch, headlight switch, coolant tank, cap and hoses, power steering pump and hoses, as well as replace your oil sender unit. Dont forget to check that your spare tire inflates.

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Ill never know if there is a sweet spot in the rpm if I don't ask I may sound like an idiot, but if I don't ask, I'll never find if it exists. There has to be a sweet spot in the rpm range to deal with 35 mph speed limits with an occasional run up to 45 mph. But a Porsche is made to driven, not coddled or blown up pushing beyond any reasonable boundaries Err, Putting the Trip in Neutral while moving is more likely going to damage it and cost more than any tiny increment to the mpg. I can't reasonably swap it out for a manual like prefer if it gives up the ghost so it has to last. That's what I'd rather have. When you can pick up a Porsche, well maintained engine with the crappiest paint job (Refer to Ocean Blues journey with that) for 5k, you deal with what you get, put the rest into the car and have the best time of your life as a retiree with nothing but free time. As Mazda used to say, 'Zoom Zoom!'. It's not the Lamborghini Muria I fell in love with at first sight in '72 (Blue book had it listed at only 19.2k in '72 right off the lot. Sadly as a bag boy, I didn't make enough tips to do anything other than fantasize the dream). I have a hybrid if I really want to just maximize mpg. My Porsche is for fun, not for insane attempts to improve mpg that it never will really achieve. 1 more mpg would be nice if it's achievable when I'm stuck in town so I can spend more time and go a bit further while pushing the loud pedal into the mountains and winding back roads!

Just use the TIP as a manual whenever you are driving around. I do, and I've never had an issue. I use "drive" only on longer stretches of faster roads (like highways), not around town. It is designed to do that and it's a nice way to keep the revs in a sweet spot. Adding paddle shifters instead of the buttons will give added pleasure to your driving experience.

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Got the first 5 done although I used Liqui-Moly. DI40 is a bit more than my wallet can handle every 5k or 6 months. I appreciate the additional information. A tire inflation unit, all in one portable jumper and tire inflation doodad, serpentine belt, water pump and gasket, coolant, oil and every tool I'd need is already on the list. Some of the items you mention are in good shape. Never thought about the ignition or oil sender. I'll put those on the list to do while it's on the lift.

While @GC996 's intentions are good, I would recommend you forego the oil pressure sender replacement if yours is still functional. I've had the misfortune of dealing with two malfunctioning senders, right out of the box from Porsche.

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I didn't know paddles were an option. I bet it involves buying another steering wheel. I'd not planned on swapping it out to retain the stock look, but considering the age of the air bag? I can just put the steering wheel with all the other stock items that have been replaced such as the original Radio and CD player. Care to point me in the right direction? Input from my original post now has me shifting around 4k now, keeping around it in the 3k vs the previous shifting at 3k for a 2k or so range. Out of curiosity, How does your 2nd gear in manual mode behave? Mine feels like its shifting into overdrive when it spins up like my '64 Triumph TR-4 did after I installed a hydraulic overdrive. It would work in any gear with the same effect I'm currently experiencing in 2nd. Is it just the torque converter coming up to speed? That would make sense. It just feels unusual to me right now.

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Thank you for the additional information. I'm doubtful I'd be able to replace it myself on the road in addition to the water pump. I'd heard the water pump is recommended to be replaced every 5 years. I've only replaced one in an old Ford Torino with 120k on it and 2 alternators on others since I learned to drive. However if it does fail and I'm towed to a shop, I wouldn't have to sit around waiting on one to shipped out to where I would be sitting. I just hope it doesn't go out on a 80 or 100 mile stretch of road between civilization in the desert between Texas and California. That would be one hell of towing fee if it were to happen. The serpentine belt I could replace on the side of the road and I'm prepared for a flat tire. I think I may just carry a conventional portable tire pump. The doodad will only charge a single tire and takes 3 hours to recharge. The other can charge another with a 20 minute interval just in case an entire side runs over a hazard. I'm also going to include a tire repair kit to handle more conventional tire issues. It won't handle a tear, but I doubt I'll have that situation. As long as I keep it between the lines I should be good. I'm more likely to have the windshield broken from a semi blowing a tire or pickup hauling a trailer of junk than tear a tire up. I don't remember if Deer would be a problem once I'm go past Alabama. Now to just convince the wife to let me go out to see my son at Camp Pendleton about an hour northeast of San Diego. I haven't seen my grandkids, 4 boys in several years and one is a teenager now. He's about to retire next year and I expect he will stay in the area and be a contractor on the base. With the turnover of the younger Marines to the good IT jobs in the civilian labor force, his breadth of institutional knowledge of the Corp IT network that also exists on standards he developed, is unique and he's the only real expert on the top down nature of the beast.

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I hear ya.

I commute 100 miles of mostly stop and go highway driving per day. My car's a manual and I keep the rev's between 3k and 4k usually, averaging 20.4 mpg and 250 miles between fill-ups.

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That's great considering the environment. I'm getting still getting used to running that rev range. I remember driving my previous manual cars (in the '70s) and they didn't rev near as high and had torque in the lower 1500 rpm. My '79 RX-7 would rev to 7k but it was rarely run that high, it had great low torque range through about 5k beyond that it ran out of gas in the higher gears. I can't remember what type of range I used, but I could use 5th at 35 mph speeds without problems. Again, due to the incredible flat torque it that came on around 1500 rpm. It's been quite awhile since I had a tachometer the cars I did have one on, two maxed out at 4500. My Triumph TR-4 was another example of low end torque. Due to it's limited rpm range and fairly hefty sized 4 cylinder engine to weight ratio. I'm getting used to running in 3rd gear at 35 mph now while it sings on about 3k. I honestly can't wait to put the Fisker mufflers on. The stock mufflers lack the Porsche sound that I hear around town. The stock ones are too quiet. I don't want to blow people away, but leave behind a pleasant burble of contentment

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Good grief the "egg part" was something not heard in decades... Sort of "nailing" us as old-timers! Hilarious! ********************* I have a Tip 4S. New to me first drive was 1300 miles to home. I didn't know didley about what I was driving. It was "heat spell", temps at ~114 even in the shade. Confession, I wouldn't turn OFF the A/C or goof with it because I didn't know how to turn it back on. A lot of the journey back was in SoCal Heated deserts and open space Nevada. I lived in NV for years, so I knew a lot of the roads and particulars. Like US 50 is called "Loneliest Road in America", one mountain range to another (NV has about 180 of them). In between is a valley stretching out like a bowl, you can see for 30+ miles, top of a pass to the next top of a pass, nothing on it. So sure, there were some triple digit jaunts "Just to Try It". (middle number=5) Most of trip was figuring out how cruise control worked, annoyed at choosing the wrong lever, how to turn off Rain Sensor when 12 drops of water came from a single cloud, and so on. Most speeds were in the 75-80 range or more. I think 80mph in NV is just a suggestion, no other cars, never did see or detect (Escort) a highway patrol. CA, different story, crammed with cops everywhere, typical idiot state, my opinion. Utah much better, fantastic curvy road going north into St. George. "Oh LOOK OUT MARTHA!! There's a CURVE ahead and going DOWNHILL, WOE is US!!" and more like that. Maintain 80 pass and go around, fun city. The 996 is pretty darn slick - low drag coefficient, great shape. Anyway, high speed cruising was 26-28mpg, amazing. A/C flawless. How to open fuel door? Read manual at gas station. Even in big city, mpg ~24 mpg or so, Tip is great, my opinion says the guy with 5 left knee surgeries. Check oil level with the dipstick every now and then when oil has had time to drain back down to sump. Don't always believe the dash measure deal. While I do not know about you CEL problem or other issues, here is some experience. *Use the Tip in manual mode around town. Let it do its thing on open road - if you have any "open roads" on the right coast. The Paddle Deal Project may be a PITA, learn what you have first. *If you have not had Tip fluid/filter changed, do it ASAP. Same for oil in trans differential. *Yes on 5 years max on water pump. WP failure can turn your engine to junk. Get a Pierberg one with plastic impeller, not a metal impeller. LowTempStat is "cool". *ALSO on WP thought, at 20+ years, replace the coolant reservoir. It will crack and leak pretty soon, common problem. Too bad .1 is more $$$$ than a .2 coolant tank, but engines cost more. *Driving in mountains is fun, even at "legal speeds", nice curves, not boring, etc. A BIG RISK in mountain states, driving at night. Very Big Critters (Moose, Elk, Deer, & [YES] Buffalo, even bighorn sheep) do NOT wear reflectors at night. *Check tire pressure cold. You may be surprised at how low the pressure really is. *Take off front bumper-cover and clean Radiators & ALSO locate the frunk-release cable and route it so you can use it if needed. *Remove LR taillight and find the engine lid release cable. Same deal as the frunk front cable. While you are at it, get rear taillight "Lite Savers", cheap, easy (2 screws) and keeps taillights attached to the car. *Get a UAOS for PorscheTech3, possibly include Track Drain, and you will solve a known Porsche Wart Failure. ( Oil starvation cyls 4-6 on hard RT turns) On further note, one premium engine builder, Slakker, does a fantastic rebuild if you go that route. Brandon has said that a 4.1L actually gets better mpgs than a "stock" engine because it is more efficient and does not have to work as hard as a stock engine. That probably goes for any Slakker engine, "stock" size or larger, as they just did a 997 3.6 Stock and it came out 357 HP/303 TQ, ~12% increase results. Other than that, have fun with your 996. Cheers. YMMV

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There are kits you can get to retrofit the paddle shifters. My TT has been converted. Here is a thread about installation: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...t-install.html Starting off in second gear, when it manual mode, just means the car will upshift from 1st to 2nd and then hold 2nd until you upshift. I think that is the sensation you feel. Both my Tip equipped 911's do this.

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I am definitely in the 'old-timer' category and had never heard PT3's egg reference and it made me lol. Out of all the 'fun' cars I've owned, I've never really paid any attention to gas mileage. Gas mileage is for the boring cars (where i don't really pay attention either).

Have you smoke tested the vacuum system? A vac leak throws CEL�s and can be misleading you to cats. Good possibility that your oil fill tube to the engine could have a crack. These cars are getting up there in age and original components fail. I chased around a CEL with MAF sensor replacement and O2 sensors and finally took it into a shop. They smoke tested and found the cracked hard plastic oil fill tube needed to be replaced.

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I created this thread to deal with in town traffic on a daily basis. Not much opportunity for fun. Besides I've been curious and ask inane questions from time to time. This is my first Porsche and I've almost finished my second month of ownership. I have a Trip, not a manual (crying). The only dumb question is the one you don't ask. I admit, time to time I ask a question that in hindsight is a 'Duh' though. I don't mind being ignorant here. I've a lot to learn. That said, the search option here absolutely suck. It doesn't handle keywords that well. Otherwise I'd try looking for answers there instead of wasting bandwidth. Back to the thread now. Taking up it to the Asheville to the Blue Ridge Parkway on the old route (before the Interstate was built) is a whole 'nother story. The car is meant to drive .. hard! And I do it ever occasion I get. In town, Bumper to Bumper, not so much. The locals don't know what a turn signal is, and with the growth of damn Yankees who moved here to work at BMW that have introduced blowing horns now, driving around sucks. We just shook our firsts or made good use of the middle finger before they arrived. Blowing the horn simply because you're annoyed used to be considered bad manners and road rage. Today the locals are more prone to get out of the car with a pistol and to go and 'talk' with them. So now it's road rage and moralities becoming the norm. Don't **** of the locals and you will be fine. We still wave at strangers. I was bit surprised to see a comment to the editor of the NT Times where this gesture drove a New Yorker nuts in her 3 week visit to the state. When in Rome ...

Never, ever put a car into neutral to save money while coasting -- all it does is pull the car out of overrun and make it start injecting fuel again to hold idle. Maybe this had some use at some point in the past but you should not do this with a fuel injected car.

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I know this .....I was being " outlandish " in my recommendation post...not to be taken seriously ....lol I had actually thought about recommending to turn off ignition while coasting down-hill to shut off injectors completely as well as eliminate engine braking......but the thought of someone actually taking me seriously stopped me...lol Back in the Old Days we used to do that for Fun-n-Games....on the old Carbureted engines when going down a steep hill we would turn OFF the ignition and open the Carb wide open to fill the exhaust with fuel for 6 seconds, then turn the ignition back ON .. This would get a loud bang and a big flame out the exhaust pipe.......But the risk of locking up the steering wheel at 75+ MPH was real and would cause a panic...lol I used to do fuel mileage testing with fancy and accurate equipment whenever there was a Customer Complaint of poor fuel mileage...Most all the Complaints were not justified..

Oh I know you know better.. however I am pretty certain post #4 in this thread is not a joke.

Quotes source post: 20584271

Oh OK as long as you were not talking to me and taking my post seriously .......