8 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHLowering the CoG
Leading reported evidence
Recommend notching it either
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Leading evidence: 'Recommend notching it either' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend notching it either' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Was the full set price of $3k for brand new or used items?
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Suggestion
A full set would run about $3k and u could bolt in better brakes, get bigger wheel bearings and a stronger race oriented upright.
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Suggestion
If u use the 6-r parts u have to use the 996 gt3t/cup calipers in front.
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Suggestion
If u use the 6-r parts u have to use the 996 gt3t/cup calipers in front.
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8 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Here's a silly idea: Can we lower the engine and transmission assemblies by shimming the motor mounts and transmission mounting brackets? I'm not looking for anything radical, just around 10mm of lowering.
You probably can but they're pretty low already. You might increase the risk of striking the sump cover or something else. Especially if you have a deep sump. Double especially if you have OEM type mounts that stretch and lower your engine more. What's the goal? Not sure you'd be able to tell much of a difference.
Probably not. The crossmemeber that carriers the sway bar is close. Its prpbably not the best way to lower cg. I would say a sunroof delete might be as good or even a lithium bat. These things r all up high. Also dropping the motor cause stress in the coolant hoses and other attachments (minor but still may be an issue). If u want the car to handle better u should get 6-gt3r uprights. The wheel hub centers r higher so lowered suspensions have better angles and the shocks can have full travel. A full set would run about $3k and u could bolt in better brakes, get bigger wheel bearings and a stronger race oriented upright.
Here is what the rears look like.
I've had the motor in and out several times. There just isn't any room under the cross member. I wouldn't recommend notching it either. If you've ever taken the transmission out from under the car you know there's just not s whole lot gained by tilting the motor back.
@De Jeeper
Was the full set price of $3k for brand new or used items?
Thanks for your viewpoints guys.
It sure is something that has minimal returns, especially given the risk of engine movement making contact with the crossmember.
@GC996
Nothing concrete at all, just entertaining some ideas bouncing around my head.
I would have to dig up the part numbers and see. If i remember correctly the uprights were $750 (fronts might be closer to $1k)each but there r a bunch of other parts u need like the bearing, heat shields and bolts. I would probably plan on $1-1.25k a corner.
If u use the 6-r parts u have to use the 996 gt3t/cup calipers in front. If u go with the 6 (or7)rs parts they use the 997 gt3/cup front brakes. I am not sure if the rs parts have the higher hub. Its real easy to confuse the parts when u do a search.
There was a thread on 6speedonline with all the part numbers to convert to an gt3r. It had all the part numbers listed for the upright conversion
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