Gulfer?s 1999 Street + Track

I bought an early 99 C2 a couple months ago. I spend a decent amount of time at the track and have and 84 Mk1 GTi race car, Mk1 MR2 street/trackcar, and OEM+ Mk2 TT 3.2. I have been watching 996s for awhile and did a lot of research to figure out what I was after, but the goal with be similar in mission to my MR2 or TT� something I can take to the track and run a few laps on instructing days. Racing is still a job for the Rabbit, but I�m excited for the rear engine dynamics and feedback on the road, track, and autocross in the 911. Anyhow - I found a car that checked the boxes: 1999, cable throttle, Sport Options Pack, US M030 (sport suspension), 220/222/224 (LSD), sport seats, aluminum accents. Sport Classic IIs were a real bonus. All options stock/original. It was even priced for the track at around 20k. The catch - it has 193k miles! Front bumper and hood paint are rough to say the least, and the seats are coming apart. I am located in Canada and this was a Florida car imported approximately 20 years ago. It had one owner here until last fall, then it was sold to a fella who had it for a few months before selling it on to me. Both the previous owners put good money into the car in the last 10k miles (3years) or I wouldn�t have bought it - IMS bearing, clutch, new B6 shocks, MPS4S tires, and the bits and bobs with it being sold and inspected twice. It does run and drive well. 100mph on MPS4S at 10 degrees out is not what I expected when I showed up to see it in the middle of January, but the seller was a bit of a character. It did have trouble going into 2nd - you�d have to hold it. I�m hoping adjustment sorts that out. It�s still cold and salty here so I haven�t had it out, but work has begun. So far I�ve fixed the HVAC screen (alibaba screen), deleted some Sirius radio garbage from the stack, added coopduc�s oil pressure gauge, fixed a floppy/cracked gas cap hinge, swapped in new fog light bulbs, lubed the starter switch, prepped some new motor mounts, replaced the leaking coolant pressure bypass (2 of the crews were rusted out), fiddled with the 2nd gear shift detent, and done a shift adjustment. Parts in hand/on the way include waterpump, idler belt and pulleys (they spin freely), UAOS, 997 oil cooler, motor mounts (Uro mounts I filled with 3M polyurethane), aluminum oil filter housing, braided brake lines, Castrol SRF fluid, smoked corner lights, roof bracket trims, and a few other maintenance items. On the future list is coils and plugs, a magic oil pan (perhaps UIDS), ROW M030 springs (rough roads and a nice OE+ option I won�t try to fiddle with), a 3rd rad, maybe Girodiscs if it runs out of brakes. These will be paced by whether the motor is a dud and I need to drop it sooner rather than later. I built the $75 PIWIS but haven�t scanned yet. I will scope it too, once I get some miles on and do the next oil change - I�d like to see the pressure/temperature behaviour first. The exhaust is leaking condensate (cracked/corroded) so I picked up a used Billy Boat system from a fella on here, it�s en route. The trans is leaking from the input selector. That�s a future problem, but I�ll address that with a set of FVD performance LSD clutches in hand so it�ll be a nice upgrade there too. I wanted to do a GT3 MC, but I have the older style booster. I�m glad I checked! That�s a problem for another day. It�s a lot of work for a car I haven�t really driven yet. Consequently, I don�t have too many photos� maybe I�ll drop one or two from pickup and bringing it home (of course in a snow storm). I waffled pretty hard on this thing due to mileage, but it was close to bottom of the market and had a lot of pricey recent work. The options made it a nice car, and the miles and spotty bumper mean I can drive it as much as I like and flatten cones with impunity. I�m glad for any feedback on my work, planned work, or use case. There�s a lot of brain trust here and I�m happily leveraging all I can take in already!

Photos. That�s the setup I use to tow my Rabbit� there is an inch TOTAL in extra width. It was slow going to winch it up there. The �windows with the key� trick was instrumental in steering and getting it up there - I learned that on here. Thanks!

Congrats! I have a '99 that I take to A/X and the track a few times a year. The most important addition for tracking these cars (if it hasn't been added yet) is a 2 qt deep sump. If you really want to spend some $$ on the best of the best, get Porschetech's ultimate deep sump. Check out the "Oil pressure instability" thread when you have a few free hours. The other must-have is a UAOS, motorsport AOS or at the very least a new stock AOS that you trust. I see you've already got that. I have the LN deep sump and a stock AOS that's only a few years old. But I'm a slow novice running on stock street tires.

I saw this on another thread and I don't remember who said it, otherwise I would credit. Before you install a 3rd radiator, pull the ones you have and replace them. At that age and that many miles, the radiators are probably not anywhere near as effective as they could be.

Yes, I lost an evening or two to the Oil Pressure Instability thread, and looking up the different pans and options, then trying to figure out how the UIDS works. What a terrible problem� that Porsche once bestowed us with, and now the market spoils us with choice! I�ll get the UOAS on and overfill it in the near term, and if nothing catastrophic pops up I�ll use what�s left in the budget for an appropriate solution. Re:Rads� that was a clairvoyant remark. I pressure tested to ~20 psi (22 pound cap) last week after replacing the burp valve, and I lost about 5psi overnight. Success! Only the day after that, I found water under both front rads. Just a little, but both are wet on the faces. After weighing options I decided I would try a set of CSF side rads. It�s cheaper than OE equivalent front rads + a center rad, and if they keep up and I can skip the center rad, I end up with a lighter car (with less aero drag and lift). I ordered them this morning! I�m jonesing for a GT3 MC but I checked my booster and this being an early car, it�s the older style. I�ll start putting pieces together but a new booster is a big hump to get over. Makes the mod +3X the price.

Quotes source post: 20514914

New side radiators will help. You will have some additional benefit to containing temps on the track during a 20-25 min session with running the UAOS w/ track drain and a 2 qt deep sump due to being able to run 4 more quarts of oil in your engine. After 20-25 min oil temps will push up the water temps which is where a 3rd radiator will help. Consider adding @Coopduc digital oil temp gauge. It will allow you to see whats really happening with oil temps on the track and street. It eliminates the guesswork.

Question about PIWIS3 and cam deviation - this is a cable throttle 3.4, and I can�t find any cam deviation reading in the PIWIS values list. I made a VAL, can see the TRA/FRA fuel trims, but can�t find anything about cam position. I flipped through a bunch of the lists, and haven�t disconnected the battery in about 40 miles. I did add Co-ops oil temp gauge - I really like it, great way to check temp/operating condition. I compared it to the DME oil temp reading today and it was about 7F low (gauge 188F, PIWIS3/DME 195F). I haven�t seen oil up much higher than that, so range is fine for use around town. Just an fyi to self about relative value. I also have a P1961 code in the DME� and the CEL doesn�t come on with the key in, so I presume it�s a bad bulb. Can I get at that by lifting the cluster like I did when installing the oil pressure gauge? And can I use a standard 2721 bulb?