Stipud Noob Question about oil changes

ok, just so i don't blow up an expensive *** engine. 1) get Mobile 1 0w40 GL from dealer (does canadian tire or other places carry it, possibly without markup). get aluminium seal ring. 2) jack up car, take out drain screw and let oil drain out. 3) change filter. 4) pour oil back into where the yellow cap is. (9.5 quarts?) do i need 2 use the filter change tool from the dealer?

get the filter from the dealer, it will have the rubber O-ring for the filter canister as well as the crush washer for the drain plug. get the oil filter cansiter wrench to. you need to torque it to spec. www.renntech.org has a step by step diy for you with tools listed. its in the diy section.

The box the filter comes in includes the O-ring, but not the crush washer. The plastic cannister for the filter is shaped on the end like a normal metal spin-on filter. You can use a strap wrench. You can use a cup style wrench 74 mm with 14 flats which you can get at almost any car parts place. If it is not on tight you can use your hands.

Tool Pants, Is the cruch washer anything special.My nearest Porsche Centre is 40kms away. Can I use any other alumunium washer? Thanks.

any copper or aluminium washer should work, as long as it's the same size

when i get the filter from the parts counter at my local dealership, they include the crush washer for me.. its taped onto the inside of the lid on the box... maybe they don't do this everywhere? i've always been taught to torque the filter canisters and drain plug.. maybe thats from working with race cars... if they have a torque spec, we use it.. i just apply the same approach to every car i own/work on, its habit for me to look up torque specs. fwiw, on bmw's we've noticed that when its over torqued, the engine consumes more oil then normal... could be just us tho... ymmv

Ha ha ha ha ha........ No, really.......???????? Ah ha ha ha ha.......never mind................

The washer is a separate part, the reason being is that filter is used on different cars but the drain plugs are different. If you have a good parts guy then he/she knows what washer you need and will tape it to the box so it will not get lost. I bought about a dozen of them for our local work on cars days because people sometimes show up without the washer. You can see a stack of them in front of the oil box. I have reused my washer on my Boxster to prove it can be done without any leaks. For our work on cars day I always replace it because it is not my car.

Dead-Eye: I'm not sure where you are in Toronto, but you can't get the oil at Canadian tire (i tried). The cheapest local place I found was from an independent shop called G-Tek on Cranfield road (ask to speak to Dominic). Porsche dealerships have it for a buck a litre. As for removing the metal housing--some people have had luck with their arms or a "rubber band" filter, but unfortunately, I tried everything under the sun and could not remove the filter without the attachment which I had to buy from a Mercedes Dealer (MB uses the same size oil filter remover) because Porsche was sold out. I don't know the part number, but it cost about $30 and you will need a socket wrench to attach (the longer, the better). Maybe you'll be able to remove the metal housing without this, but I could have sworn that the guy that did the previous old change either has forearms the size of my rear tires or welded the sucker on. Because the metal housing which houses the paper filter doesn't get swapped out, you have to be careful not to damage the thing (like I do when I can't otherwise remove the filter). Good luck! If you need any other information, let me know.

A question about the wrench to remove the filter housing:I have a circular wrench that's rippled on the inner edge and is adjustable for filters of different sizes. Can I use this? and the old rule about tightening filters( the housing in this case) once it makes contact with where its seated, do you tightened it 3/4 of a turn? Thanks Munro86

Munro, I tried the adjustable filter but it just wasn't working for me. In the end, I had to go with the exact part, which cups right on (and even has flat bolts in the side that you can dial in to get an even snugger fit). For tightening, I used a really good hand-tighten (to the point where I couldn't move it anymore) and then just shy of a 1/4 turn after that with the wrench.