53 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH996 Sprint Boosters are here- Discount for first order!
Leading reported evidence
Check area around the pedal
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I checked the area around the pedal, but there are no kick panels anywhere near the pedal.
996 Sprint Boosters are here- Discount for first order!
Read full discussion summary
Leading evidence: 'Check area around the pedal' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'best $299 you could spend' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check area around the pedal' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that suspect a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suspected cause
I installed one in a 996 C2 Cabrio on Friday, and the owner said it was the best $299 you could spend on the car
996 Sprint Boosters are here- Discount for first order!
Clean footwell is a must though
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
996 Sprint Boosters are here- Discount for first order!
Replace 0-60 times, or anything else, what does it do
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I guess my one question is: If it doesn't change 0-60 times, or anything else, what does it do?
996 Sprint Boosters are here- Discount for first order!
Replace fuel map
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Actually this has nothing to do with changing the fuel map.
996 Sprint Boosters are here- Discount for first order!
Coverage and how to read this overview
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
53 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T212127Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
We finally got the Sprint Boosters in for the 996, which we are selling at a special introductory price (click below):
996 w/Manual (2000-up C2 and 1999-up C4)
996 w/Tiptronic (2000-up C2 and 1999-up C4)
Click here for more information on Sprint Booster
We would like to test one of these on a 996 here at our shop, and also document the install for you guys. So we are offering a further discount,
plus free install
, to the first customer who brings their car to us for this upgrade.
Or
if anyone would like to order one, install it themselves, and take clear detailed pictures of the process, we will extend the discount to them that way (credited once the pics are sent to us).
Here's what the 996 unit looks like:
Connector to pedal:
Connector to harness:
Please feel free to PM me with any questions you may have.
If I've got it right, this will "trick" the system so when you step on the throttle 1/2 way, the computer will give the car 3/4 throttle?
It sounds like the modern (aka electronic) version on the 944 throttle response cam.
Basically, you are correct. It modifies the signal to provide more response at any given throttle opening. It works particularly well on vehicles with early drive-by-wire systems, like those on the 996. They are notorious for the delay programmed in from the factory.
PM sent.
I've been waiting for this for a while.
I guess my one question is: If it doesn't change 0-60 times, or anything else, what does it do? I'm a little confused on that one.
It's not going to give you any horsepower gain because it changes nothing in the ECU itself, only the signal going to it.
It *may* increase your 0-60 time marginally, but probably not enough to register on paper.
What it will do, however, is get rid of the lag that is present in factory drive-by-wire systems, making the car much more timely and responsive to small throttle inputs.
Where the difference does register strongly is in the real world. It is a driving-experience oriented modification that you will be able to utilize on a daily basis. It changes the speed with which the motor reacts when the throttle is first pushed. It can also have the effect of making the car easier to drive smoothly if its lag is particularly bad from the factory.
Nearly every time we install one of these in a customer's car, we hear, "wow, that feels like a different car" or "this is how it should feel from the factory." That's what this is about folks, how the car feels.
This is not a product for bench-racers who want to knock a couple of tenths off their theoretical 0-60 time. It's for the discerning enthusiast who wants his car to react instantly to throttle input, accelerating right then instead of 1.2 seconds after he hits the gas.
If you don't believe us, just try the product yourself. If you don't like it, send it back within 30 days and we will refund your money. They only thing you'll have to pay is the return shipping, which is next to nothing on something this compact. We've got lots of satisfied customers running these in their cars, so please just give this thing a try before you dismiss it.
This is an interesting idea, but honestly I think it's going to be a tough sell since it's hard to quantify the improvement that people will feel. Maybe if some of the people that have installed it could give unbiased reviews it would be helpful?
You're absolutely right, it is very difficult to convey the effects of this through words on a computer screen. It really does change how the car feels and reacts, but the extent of the change varies from car to car.
From what we've been told, the improvement on the 996s and 986s is substantial.
Actually this has nothing to do with changing the fuel map. The Sprint Booster only modifies the signal going from the potentiometer in the pedal assembly to the ECU. The fuel maps, along with everything else in the ECU are untouched, but the ECU does initiate the thottle without delay, as opposed to the factory setup which is hesitant.
It is indeed plug-and-play, and is completely reversible. There are no modifications to the existing wiring.
And yes, it will work with the 996 GT3.
Sending PM
Yes, it installs underneath the dash, into the pedal assembly. Typically takes less than 1 hour.
Awesome! Let me know by PM when you are ready to place the order.
There is a 30 day money-back guarantee. If you don't like it, send it back to us and we'll refund your money (no restocking fee). You would just be responsible for the return shipping, which shouldn't be that much.
In that case, the unit is indeed the same and will work for both your cars.
I didnt mean to make it sound like it changes the fuel map... I was only trying to describe the performance is similar to the 997 sports chrono.... just more aggressive throttle signal vs aggressive fuel map.
Installation requires the removal of a kick panel underneath the dash (2 screws). Once you have access to the area above the pedal assembly, you can follow the cable to the potentiometer where the Sprint Booster plugs in. Then you plug the factory harness into the Sprint Booster.
Like I said, this takes less than 1 hour. Actually its probably closer to 30 minutes. I'll have more details and pics soon, and hopefully we'll have a local install in the works so I can post a dedicated DIY thread.
What is the price?
EDIT: never mind, I just saw it on the first link.
Since all you changing is the impedance (and it is a passive circuit), don't you think
that the price is way too steep?
I bought one, got it yesterday, but after a half hour under my 99' C4 dash last night I cannot find where it mounts. Not sure I want to start removing dash panels and stuff until I know exactly 'what ' to remove. Anybody got any ideas??? I wanted to report on it today
PM sent
Please send us pictures of what you are looking at, Marlon. That way we are all on the same page. Installation is a breeze on every other vehicle that we've done (including Cayennes, Caymans, etc). The 996 should be no different.
Hopefully
, we will have a 996 in here next week for an install, and we will have a definitive and documented procedure then for sure.
I checked the area around the pedal, but there are no kick panels anywhere near the pedal. I discounted the center console lower half since it is removable - why would a critical electrical component go in the center console. I thought I saw a post that indicated that the cable coming out of an egas pedal goes to the cruise control. Maybe I'm wrong. Easiest way to find out where it is located is with a IPB and associated schematic - but I don;t have one.
Ok guys, so I've completed the Sprint Booster install in a 996 Cabrio here at our shop. It took me exactly an hour, but part of that was spent taking pictures (many of which did not turn out) and trying unsuccessfully to remove a piece that was in the way. I worked around that though, and got the unit in there. Here are the pics:
This what the Sprint Booster looks like:
And here is the stock connector into which it plugs (sorry about the lack of focus):
It is located a few inches above the pedal assembly. The cable that runs out of the assembly goes up to the potentiometer, and then this harness is connected to that.
However, it is difficult to see the connection from under the dash. That's because this is conveniently in the way:
There was 1 visible screw in this thing, but after removing it, I couldn't access the other ones, so I just left it as loose as possible to aid in getting my hands up there.
It takes a while to position yourself so that you can get both hands up to unplug the connector, and I found the best way is to bring one arm around behind the pedals, toward the firewall and the other straight up through the hole.
Once you do this, you have to find the right grip on the connector to unplug it. It helps to remove the connector from its little holding bracket, which you can accomplish by twisting it counterclockwise. Then you can move it where you need to so you can get an adequate grip.
Make sure to depress the tabs on the sides of the connector!
Once you have it unplugged, connect one end of the Sprint Booster into the male harness, and the other into the female. When done correctly it looks like this:
Don't worry about trying to get the connector back into its bracket, because it will not go in with the Sprint Booster between the two parts. You just don't have enough wire to work with.
Overall, I would say that this was not a difficult install, but it does require a certain level of patience and flexibility (literally).
It was certainly worth it though, as the car responds much more quickly in the first half of pedal travel. You will notice a difference right away, guranteed!
Those of you who own a manual 996 know that heel-toeing is a bit awkward from the factory, because of the delay. Well, not any more!
The Sprint Booster transformed heel-toe downshifts on this car, making them timely and natural, just like they should be.
But automatics should respond just as well, because the delay is much more pronounced without clutchwork to mask it on take offs.
As always, feel free to ask any questions you may have. Now that I've installed one I can give you first hand info
OK - it was EASY, but a royal PITA due to being on your back and contorted - needing a third hand, etc. I got on my back in the drivers footwell and removed the bottom-most rectangular plastic vent or A/c tubing. (Not the one with the pre-molded holes in it - the other one that has NO holes in it) There are no screws or fasteners associated with this piece of rectangular tubing - you simply sort of squeeze the tube towards it's middle section and pull out either end where it connects to a more permanent vent routing. This plastic vent tube has an accordion section in it to facilitate this manuever.
Orient your shop light so that it shines up in the under-dash when left alone and you can see the little wire connection that the Sprint Booster will fit into - it has about 5 or 6 wires that go in and out of it.
It is anchored right in front of a light green "cam-looking" thing. Notice that the connector is secured to a piece of cad plated metal by one of those 'twist' plastic anchors - so all you do is reach up and rotate the connector which will rotate that white plastic anchor about 90 degrees and then you wiggle it free, just hanging there.
You can pull apart the connector with one hand - simple squeeze in the two pinch fittings on the sides of the connector and gently pull one end of it and it will come apart. You may be able to wiggle you other free hand up there to help hold the connector as you pull it apart, but since it has so many wires you can use your judgment if it 'feels' like you are excerting too much pull on the wires. Now the connector is apart and ready to accept the Sprint Booster.
Of course now comes the hard part: best to connect the Sprint Booster into the LONG end of the separated connector first. You will notice that since you separated the connector, one end has a longer set of wires than the other. By experience I discovered that it's best to insert the Sprint Booster into the longer set of wires side of the connector first - don't ask me why but it was. YOu can do it with one hand after you try it five or ten times first - kind of exasperating, but there's literally no way you can get both hands up there. After getting the first end connected - make sure the Sprint Booster is fully seated and then insert the remaining side of the Spring Booster into the remaining connector end. Now you have attached the Sprint Booster into the original wire harness/connector.
I was able to reinsert the connector back into the the 90--degree fitting on the cad plated metal mount bracket. Reinstall your vent tube and you are done.
For tonight just now, I started the car in the garage and it seems to rev faster for a given throttle setting as you depress the pedal. I'll drive it tomorrow and report my impressions
OK - it was EASY, but a royal PITA due to being on your back and contorted - needing a third hand, etc. I got on my back in the drivers footwell and removed the bottom-most rectangular plastic vent or A/c tubing. (Not the one with the pre-molded holes in it - the other one that has NO holes in it) There are no screws or fasteners associated with this piece of rectangular tubing - you simply sort of squeeze the tube towards it's middle section and pull out either end where it connects to a more permanent vent routing. This plastic vent tube has an accordion section in it to facilitate this manuever.
Orient your shop light so that it shines up in the under-dash when left alone and you can see the little wire connection that the Sprint Booster will fit into - it has about 5 or 6 wires that go in and out of it.
You can see it in the picture I attached. It is anchored right in front of a light green "cam-looking" thing. Notice that the connector is secured to a piece of cad plated metal by one of those 'twist' plastic anchors - so all you do is reach up and rotate the connector which will rotate that white plastic anchor about 90 degrees and then you wiggle it free, just hanging there.
You can pull apart the connector with one hand - simple squeeze in the two pinch fittings on the sides of the connector and gently pull one end of it and it will come apart. You may be able to wiggle you other free hand up there to help hold the connector as you pull it apart, but since it has so many wires you can use your judgment if it 'feels' like you are excerting too much pull on the wires. Now the connector is apart and ready to accept the Sprint Booster.
Of course now comes the hard part: best to connect the Sprint Booster into the LONG end of the separated connector first. You will notice that since you separated the connector, one end has a longer set of wires than the other. By experience I discovered that it's best to insert the Sprint Booster into the longer set of wires side of the connector first - don't ask me why but it was. YOu can do it with one hand after you try it five or ten times first - kind of exasperating, but there's literally no way you can get both hands up there. After getting the first end connected - make sure the Sprint Booster is fully seated and then insert the remaining side of the Spring Booster into the remaining connector end. Now you have attached the Sprint Booster into the original wire harness/connector.
I was able to reinsert the connector back into the the 90--degree fitting on the cad plated metal mount bracket. Reinstall your vent tube and you are done.
For tonight just now, I started the car in the garage and it seems to rev faster for a given throttle setting as you depress the pedal. I'll drive it tomorrow and report my impressions
We are under contract to sell these above a certain price point, so unfortunately we cannot do a group buy. These are already heavily discounted from retail, with no minimum number of buyers. $299 is as low as we can go.
If you value how your car feels and not just how much it puts out on the dyno, then you'll see why the Sprint Booster is worth every penny when you drive it after the install. Manual or tiptronic, these things just plain wake the car up below half-throttle, and make heel-toe downshifting on manuals effortless.
And if for some reason you don't like it, you can just send it back we'll refund your money.
I think between Marlon and I we've pretty much covered the install, but feel free to add pics/impressions when you do yours. It's not difficult at all mechanically. It just requires a little time spent a bit uncomfortably in the footwell. But the end result is definitely worth it!
Getting a fresh shipment of these in today, so both the AT and MT versions for the 996/986 will be in stock!
I installed one in a 996 C2 Cabrio on Friday, and the owner said it was the best $299 you could spend on the car