31 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHCreaky Suspension
Reported repair
Repair thread
Reported resolution
1
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that report a fix
1
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Leading evidence: 'Repair thread' (1 discussions report resolution; 0 report an unsuccessful attempt). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'ball joints' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair thread' (1 discussions). For that action, 1 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. The most frequently reported fix is 'Repair thread', supported by resolution reports in 1 discussions. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Reported cause
It was the ball joints which required new control arms to replace.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I tightened, lubed, and inspected forever...and never found it.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The creak has become worse on my '99 Cab since I installed H&R anti-sway bars.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Btw I also just changed springs, hats and sshock (struts)
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Suspected cause
It is most likely the tie rod ends (does it do it worse after beibg driven a bit?) there is a whole recent (less than 2 months old) thread on this in Renntech.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
31 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
2 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Our tech has spent about 2 hours w/my car and still can't figure out what it is. He says it's deep in there.
Sounds like my car is haunted when turning or going over bumps - limited to left front area.
Anyone have any ideas?
It's RoW M030.
It is most likely the tie rod ends (does it do it worse after beibg driven a bit?) there is a whole recent (less than 2 months old) thread on this in Renntech. Common problem (I have it as well).
My vote is for the ball joints. Carefully inspect the boots on the control arms for any damage...and I mean carefully. I tightened, lubed, and inspected forever...and never found it. Finally I decided to just replace the control arms. When the arms were out I could finally see tiny defects in the boots. New arms, no sounds. Life was good.
That's what he thinks it is too.
Does anyone know if the stock tie rod ends are interchangable w/RoW M030?
I have the stock suspension in the garage and would like to save on buying new parts.
99.9% sure they are the same.
I replaced mine with new, still have my little creak, but I found the clunk was the drop links which I also replaced with new...... And still have my creak
Btw I also just changed springs, hats and sshock (struts)
Still creaks
I vote sway bar
I have Row 030 too, tie rod ends were not part of the kit. I also have creaky sound. For me is the tie rod ends, for quick fix I punctured the boot and squirt grease in it when it get noisy. That cures it for a while. I have seen rebuilt tie rod ends advertised in the pcar mags for around $190 or so.
I used to work with chemicals that used rocket fuel at -30C. this stuff is extremely inert and the ball bearing tests prove it works for mechanical applications. We used it for O-ring and seals as a tiny drop goes a really really long way and the O-ring don't break down as fast, plus don't leak (a big issue when you are running Base of 14+ pH and chlorine gas)
We once bought an 8 oz bottle of the liquid for a special pump that was $500... and they make more expensive stuff if you you just cant get enough !!!
if you get some, report what you think. -
one more thing, I use it on the door seals of my cars (rubber stuff) and when it freezes the doors don’t stick shut... its completely invisible and protects them from cracking too....
here is a report of Q ans A's
LINKY
I am not a salesperson, but could be
The creak has become worse on my '99 Cab since I installed H&R anti-sway bars. Seems the holes that mount to the drop links are a bit too large and there is excessive lash between the bolt and the hole. The bolts require re-tightening a few times a year, then all is quiet for a while. I think I will machine some shoulder bolts for a light press fit into the bars and cure this once and for all. May be worth checking on yours but sounds too obvious.
Lived with excessive front suspension noise for 10K miles. Passengers complained enough that I finally took it to the shop today. Control arms replaced. Problem solved.
my suggestion is use very little... and coat both surfaces, I mean a drop or two (though it's more of a solid) you dont need extra and it wont wash off (though it is also not visable)- just the thinest coating
also I use it for my seals, keeps them soft and when they get wet/frozen in winter I have not had the doors stick anymore.
any bolts that "slide thru" something... like your front drop links, the long bolt, or your brake caliper bolts,.... just the tiniest drop and they slide in easy and wont ever stick, so easy to remove - completly inert so there are no dangers there and the temp range is like amazing so you are good there too
GL with the stuff, I love it - and will never work with out it... seems I always think about it before installing anything, like that darn AOS rubber insert that goes into the block or my intake manifold O'Rings - or any other O'ring
According to this thread, the problem could be any of the following, correct?
- Tie rod ends
- bar bushings
- ball joints
- sway bar
- strut tower
- lower ball joint
- drop links
- control arms
I have this sound when car is really warm and want to get it fixed as soon as the winter is over.
As soon as I read those 6 words, it hit me! I just couldn't resist, it was too good of a set-up to let pass!
Ed, you are a good guy, no matter what I say about you!
Polyurathane bushings are really squeky. Messing with hot rods and stiffer suspensions a guy finds that out quick. Not sure what anyone squeking is using but good luck getting rid of the noise. That Krytox sounds like a good deal.
Summit and Jegs sells lubes for bushings.
Interesting side note about Krytox (TM): perfluorinated polyether oils are used in vacuum pumps when the pumped gas is corrosive or otherwise nasty. In the early '90s, Iraq was using a German front company to purchase large amounts of Krytox for pumps used in its uranium enrichment program. The intelligence community traced the huge purchases the end user. this was critical info in determining that Iraq had a nuke program.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
