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YOUR RESEARCHWould I be a fool if...
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Run nasa level 2 and scca intermediate in their des
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I run NASA level 2 and SCCA Intermediate in their DEs with about 12 track days under my belt.
Leading evidence: 'Run nasa level 2 and scca intermediate in their des' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'would happen' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean i mean a machined surface' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
I don't want any pad fade, which I suspect would happen with the stock 996 pads, but I don't have track experience with it yet.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Pad companies mostly say to have a clean rotor to bed properly.
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Suggestion
Easiest way to clean your rotors is run race pads on the street
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Suggestion · Original poster
The nice thing about the Carbotech XP8s, which is what they recommend for the the 996 with street tires, work great on the street too if one doesn't mind a little noise.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The only reason I'm changing brakes is for the 8 planned track days this season; there's nothing wrong with them for the street...only about 16k on them.
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Suggestion
During many years of swapping pads at the track without sanding rotors I have only had a problem once at Pocono while running the double infield (very brake intensive).
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I think my stock pads will hold up at Mid-Ohio? DE is comnng up soon and I have very limited time to change out rotors and pads (which I still need to buy) before then. However I would swap out stock fluid for ATE Super Blue since I already have that.
The past couple of years, I've run Carbotech XP8 and XP10s on previous cars. I run NASA level 2 and SCCA Intermediate in their DEs with about 12 track days under my belt.
I don't want any pad fade, which I suspect would happen with the stock 996 pads, but I don't have track experience with it yet.
Opinions based on my previous pad usage and experience level would be appreciated. Thanks.
many cars run with stock parts and do just fine...as a first timer i am guessing your car will be OK with the stock stuff....
you say you need to change them, why? (wear, vibration, better stuff?)
A first timer in the 996, but about 12 days at Mid-Ohio, so I know the track well. Stock pads in previous cars I've tracked (RX-8, GTI, A3) would not have held up. I tried in the A3 for my first DE and they faded big time. Mid-Ohio has a long braking zone coming off the back stretch which puts a lot of heat in the pads.
The only reason I'm changing brakes is for the 8 planned track days this season; there's nothing wrong with them for the street...only about 16k on them.
The nice thing about the Carbotech XP8s, which is what they recommend for the the 996 with street tires, work great on the street too if one doesn't mind a little noise. The XP8s are the start of their track pad compounds.
As long as (1) the pads are still pretty full of life ;and (2) you aren't using the brakes very hard. The problem you will run into is one you get outside the operating temp of the pad you will find it to be very ineffective in stopping power. Matching your pads to your typical operating brake temp is VERY IMPORTANT.
For the student groups and possibly the beginning solo driver stock would be ok, but I'd get a track pad if you are higher than that level.
Curious why you feel you need new rotors? Pads can be done in under an hour for all four corners. I'd at least get track pads and new fluid in there before an event.
Bring some back-up pads and you should be fine - at least the fronts. Like Dell said, you can replace them really quickly at the track. Pagid makes a decent endurance pad that will likely last you a whole season [or more!]
Stock pads may be OK for a relative newbie, but like most things in life, you should get the right tool for the job.
-td
You think it will be okay to put on the pads without sanding the rotors? Pad companies mostly say to have a clean rotor to bed properly.
Anyone have any luck doing this?
Wouldn't they be clean if you just used them 10 minutes ago?
As long as you don't get grease on them - right?
There are quite a few guys that swap pads back and forth, I don't think they sand the rotors each time. - maybe a quick spray with brakeclean - I really don't know, but Dell and Tom have that type of info, good questions to ask
When I say clean, I mean a machined surface. Ideally the rotor should be clear of any other pad material when changing to a different pad material. However if people have had success with our cars, then I am open to feedback.
like I stated, many guys swap back and forth since track pads make sweet music on the street... Porsche rotors have really tight specs for flatness and parallel - I mean really tight! There are almost no shops turning rotors and the service limits are so small that replaement is about the only choice....
this means anyone NOT changing rotors to new rotors every swap IS doing exactly what you are asking about....
When the pads are not up to temp then are VERY abrasive and will do the rotor cleaning for you. Easiest way to clean your rotors is run race pads on the street
During many years of swapping pads at the track without sanding rotors I have only had a problem once at Pocono while running the double infield (very brake intensive). I was using slotted rotors and had mounted new Pagid pads for the second day. The slots gummed up before the green pads "cooked out" and caused very bad pulsing. i had to clean the slots and sand the surfaces on both sides of all four rotors to get them to work. Quick way to sand rotors between run groups is to put sand paper between the pulled back lightly touching pads and rotors and spin by hand.
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