Chain tensioner or chain adjuster?

When doing the IMS retrofit I spoke with LN Engineering regarding chain noise on start up and he recommeded replacing the chain tensioners while I'm in there. Chain tensioners are running $1000 a piece. Was it really the tensioner cylinder or the chain tensioner adjuster? I hope it's not the cylinder.... wow $938 "as chain tensioner" but the part is also named adjuster $81.21 Thanks in advance.

Im confused, I have never been in there. But that looks like the vario cam solinoid. When I spoke with them about tensioners they said to just do the pads

Pads are a wear item - and much cheaper

here is a pic of the cam tensioner assy - you only have to change the guide (rub strip) there are several of these in our motors and the cam ones are supposed to be fairly simple to do compared to the others - It does require special tooling to hold the cams in place and a threaded rod to compress the tensioner so it can be removed. Also the valve cover off which is not trivial, but .... if you are in there for IMS job, its not THAT much more (so I hear) you can see there is also one on the top of the assy... they just "pop" on and off 2 per side (total of 4)

It's these https://rennlist.com/forums/7295275-post101.html

the first link you show is for the VarioCam solinoid/adjuster, also the picture that Ivangene has posted. This is not what LN is referring to. LN is referring to the three tensioners that go on the chains from the IMS to the heads (2) and the IMS to the crank (1). These are the tensioners that are supposed to be removed prior to removing the IMS flange and bearing as they put pressure on the IMS. Particularly on the ones for the IMS to cams on head 1-3 and the IMS to crank., both of which are on the flywheel end of the engine. The tensioner for the IMS to cams on head 4-6 is on the pulley end of the engine, harder to get at (you have to remove the AC compressor and loosen a bracket), and exerts less pressure on the IMS, at least the end that has the bearing you are replacing. The pads for these chains cannot be replaced without taking off the cam covers and cams, and even them the IMS to crank pad cannot be accessed. Please note that there are three different tensioners here. The part number according to my PET are as follows: IMS to cam 1-3 996.105.179.58 superceded to 996.105.186.01 $91.78 list IMS to crank 996.105.180.54 (can't find a superceded number) $67.54 IMS to cam 4-6 996.105.176.51 superceded number 996.105.188.01 $111.34. Please check/verify these numbers before you order any, but they are the ones on my PET for a 99. These tensioners are sometimes scoured/worn and as you see Porsche has come up with a superceded part/design. As for the pad on the VarioCam adjusters, Ivangene shows how they can be worn quite a bit. This was the case on my engine (whereas the pads on the IMS chains were in good condition). But to replace these pad you have to remove the cam covers and the cams, which is not part of the IMS bearing procedure.

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Those are what I'm talking about. My second link on the first post is the new version of 996.105.180.54 I was using this PDF for parts info.-> Part Catalogue Thanks for the info. I need to verify that these are what need to be replaced.

Yes, sorry I was off - based on the original post, the tensioner makes more sense since they (2 of 3) are removed for the IMS retrofit. I inspected one at my indy and he was not planning to change it, I pointed out the marring on the edge. The metal parts slide in and out of each other and gawl causing them to them stick. Its easy to see if you are used to seeing parts gawl, but if you are not, its a little tough to tell. Replacing them would be a great idea - however, they are a snap to remove (the 2) so if you do it at a later date I think that is fine. Inspect them and then make the call. I am almost certain mine will need replaced with 115k miles

I'm doing the IMS replacement also, and I looked into using the revised tensioners. The information I've gotten from the Porsche dealer is that the revised tensioner was implemented with the change in the the timing chain from the two piece roller type chain (motorcycle type chain) to the new one-piece tooth type chain which also included the change in the crankshaft and IMS shaft (introduced into production on August 2000, as of engine number M96.04 66 1 00501). According to the Porsche Service bulletin the new tensioner is not compatible with the old chain. Hence the old style tensioner (996.105.180.54) is still available and is the the only one that should be used with the earlier type chain. If anyone has different information please let me know.

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Interesting, I thought the chain tensioner did not come directly in contact with the chain, rather is was connected to the slide. Parts 24 34, 35 We are going to need more professionals in on this one issue.

The tensioners push on the chain support brackets (items 18 and 30 on the diagram), which have wear pads on them. I don't know why you could not use the newer tensioners as they do not come into contact with the chains and according to my PET the brackets themselves have not been updated.

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that is your engine

I replaced all three adjusters when I did the IMS bearing replacement. Two of the 3 were scored. The crank to IMS adjuster popped out fully as I pulled it out of the bore. Rick 99 996C4 87 944S

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The service bulletin doesn't mention whether the tensioner pads are a new part, however the pictures show that they are different, with the tensioner contact point further away from the chain. The tensioners themselves are very different. And the bulletin specifically states that you should not use the new tensioners with the earlier roller chain. I've decided to keep the original tensioners since they are in good working condition. I think that's the key point if the tensioner is binding then the chain can be either too tight or too loose. In either case causing noisy operation or shortening the life of the chain.

What service bulletin number is this? Thanks Rick 99 996C4 87 944S

So you are not supposed to use the new style tensioner with the old style chain, but the old style tensioner is no longer available. The parts list shown only shows one of the tensioners, IMS to Crank, and still available. But when I do a search on Renntech's price list the other two tensioners, for IMS to 1-3 and IMS to 4-6, both are shown with superceded numbers. Has anyone seen these in the newer style. A little confused as to what Porsche is doing here.

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My local Porsche dealer parts manager tells me to always order parts based on vehicle VIN. He says that Porsche sometimes upgrades a part and of course assigns it a new number. At the time it can stop stocking the original or previous parts with earlier part numbers. He says using VIN is the best way to ensure you're getting the right part. You have to be careful: In some cases -- one I know of for sure -- the new part is not quite a bolt in replacement for the old part. Case in point: I ordered new washer nozzles for my 02 Boxster. The original nozzles no longer available. New ones with new part numbers (I think the same nozzles as on the 987s) were specified. The new nozzles while they'll fit just fine require a wiring harness connector. This is a $75 item and two are required, one for each nozzle. Sincerely, Macster.

I had the dealer look up the IMS to crank adjuster again when I went to pick them up, due to the drastic changes. The 4-6 adjuster now uses a 14mm allen wrench to install instead of the 24mm socket. It might be able to clear the A/C compressor now. Why Porsche changed the design, might be to reduce the scoring that I guess is very common per Jake. Rick 99 996C4 87 944S

PICS OF NEW PARTS???

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Rick, The Tech Bulletin number is 1551 Regards, Dan

Dan, Thanks Rick 99 996C4 87 944S

The 14mm allen wrench for the 4-6 tensioner sounds like a good idea as far as access for loosening it, but It would still be hard to get the tensioner out for replacment without removing the AC compressor and loosening the bracket right above the tensioner. Really tight in there.

I have not gone in there but would lowering the motor help... that is easy and gains a couple inches...

Nope, the AC compressor and the bracket are attached to the motor so lowering the motor does not help. There is actually lots of room under the "hood." This tensioner is on top of the motor, and the problem is that the compressor is located over the tensioner and the bracket is there too. Sorry I don't have a picture. If you have done it before, taking off the compressor is not that hard, the two exposed bolts are easy access. It is the bolt on the back of the compressor that is hard to get at. The easiest way is to use and extension and go between the intake runners for 4 and 5. You have to remove the temp sensor that is located there. If you have done it before it is not so hard. The first time is challenging, figuring out where everything is. As for the bracket, pretty easy, just loosen a couple of bolts.