Brake job DIY

I've replaced rotor, pads, and calipers on many cars. However I've not had one with 4 piston calipers like the 996. It's easy to squeeze the pistons back on open calipers with a large c-clamp, but obviously it won't be the same with these. What's the sequence of the change? How do I get the pistons retracted without buying that really nice $225 spreader tool? My guess is: 1. pull the calipers 2. change the rotors 3. push in the caliper pistons with old pads (but how?) 4. put on calipers 5. slip in new pads 6. bleed the system (I may buy the Motive bleeder) 7. bed the brakes

Its kinda tricky. I did it BEFORE I removed the calipers OR PADS. Next time I am going to spend the whole 6$ and get the tool from the local parts place. But anyway if you are already in and you just wanna "get-r done" Remove the pin that holds the pad in the caliper along with the anti squeel clip. I took a peice of leather and put it on places of contact so not to scar or scratch anything I then took my large Groove-Joint plyers and spread one side, with the pads still in. I then cut a block of wood to put in the spread side between the pad and rotor to hold it open while I spread the other side. Becasue if you try to spread the other side without anything holding the first side, The first side will close back up. Kinda a "who's on first" situation. I used the old pad to spread both pistons on one side at the same time. It was actually really easy Note if you have stock pads, you can not remove the pads while the caliper is mounted. Good luck. Its a walk in the park

Basically what Kyle said. If I'm doing the rotors then I will remove the caliper first, hang it w/ a clip and then mess w/ the pads.

If you're replacing the rotors, before unbolting the calipers, wiggle two flat screwdrivers between the old pads and old rotors. Pry gently outwards and they will evenly push the pistons back in. Don't forget to check the fluid reservoir and remove fluid if it's close to overflowing.

I pulled the calipers and used a pair of c clamps to move both sides back. Leave the old pads in place to do this..... easy peasy............ I wish all projects were as easy as brake rebuilds!

big C clamp - open brake fill cap, push piston in SLOWLY - I push against the old pad - easier (watch that the resivour does not get too full (the big problem with not opening the cap is that if someone filled up the brake fluid with low pad, you will have too much fluid - remove excess with a medicine syringe available at any pharmacy for free - dont get brake fluid on your pained surfaces AND you dont have to bleed the system... its a good thing to do but not required for pad swap.

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this one gets my vote

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I must be missing something in what you are saying here. I have changed stock pads without removing the caliber from the wheel assembly. Very very easy to do.

Go to renntech.... in the 996 DIY section, there is a nice write up. ^^^ I believe he is talking about the dampers (anti-squeal).... they are glued (taped) on the back side of the pads. So you must pry the dampers off the pads in order to slide the pads off.

I'm going to have to do this very soon as well. A follow up question.... The DIY guide on rentech says nothing about replacing or turning rotors. Is this something that doesn't need to be done with the new pads as long as they are in good condition? Does is make a difference with squeaking when braking? Thanks

But only an issue worth it if you don't remove the calipers - the OP is replacing rotors

Not sure if mentioned... Put on drain to tube and put in catch can, open bleed screw first before pushing pads back.

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Im not challanging you nor doubting your advice. I never did this. it seems doing this *may* risk gettting air in the line. The only way I can see you needing to do this is if you topped off the fluid thus it would over flow when you pushed it all back.

Come on boys, man up. Use your thumbs to push the piston back in. If one is really stubborn just use one of your old brake pads inserted longways and lever the piston back. Just keep a finger on the other piston to keep it from coming back out.

I have actually been P/O'd enough and pushed pistons back in by hand. Its really not the pressure, its the constant pressure that is required.

Yah just constant pressure. Pads have to retract. Before pushing the pistons inwards make sure they are cleaned and not pushing debri into the o-ring. You wont like the troubles that can lead to.

Get a pad spreader from your local auto shop, can't be more than $20 and will save alot of stress. Changing pads and discs is the easiest thing you can do on a 996... Discs http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster...change_rotors/ Pads http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster...s/change_pads/ Just remember to bed them in after...

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I've spread the calipers just about every way possible without using a spreader... after coughing up $10 for a spreader, I don't know why I didn't do it that way before... Bite the bullet and get the spreader - it's so much easier that way... Rudy

I also meant to ask about the wear sensors in the stock pads (assuming our 996s have them). Do most track pads come with these? If not, is there a way to trick the system so a brake light doesn't come on?

OK - more than one reference to "bed the pads" someone explain in lay persons terms please

From the Pagid website Brake Pad Bedding Procedure Why bedding? -To transfer a layer of friction material onto the brake disc faces to achieve maximum performance. -To stabilize compressible materials to avoid a spongy pedal. -To boil off volatile elements in the friction compound in order to have the initial �green� fading during bedding and not during the race. -To align the pad surface with the brake disc surface to have full contact. -If pads do not get bedded properly and / or used to hard right out of the box will likely lead to pad glazing. Pad glazing is a condition where the resins in the pad crystallize on both, the pad friction surface and the brake disc surface, resulting in poor stopping performance, brake judder and vibrations.Also rapidly escaping volatile elements and moisture from the resin would seek an immediate escape route out of the friction compound, creating small fissures that would lead shortly to cracking and chunking. 1.) BASIC BEDDING IN To initiate some heat in the brake discs and pads. -4 to 6 stops with medium brake pressure from approximately 150 km/h (90 MPH) to approximately 80 km/h (50 MPH). -Distance between each brake stop approximately 300 - 400 meters (300 to 400 yards). -The pads should not reach temperatures above 400� Centigrade (550� Fahrenheit). -No dragging! -Blocking of the air ducts might be helpful to reach appropriate temperatures quicker.[/list][/u] 2.) IMMEDIATELY AFTER BASIC BEDDING IN AT HIGH SPEED Simulating race conditions -One stop with medium to heavy brake pressure, without allowing brakes to lock from approximately 180 km/h (110 MPH) to approximately 80 km/h (50 MPH). -No dragging! -Recovery stops with light brake pressure 3 to 4 times. (Cleaning procedure) -Repeat the high-speed stops including recovery stops 2 to 3 times. -Allow a cool-off distance of approximately 500 m (500 yards) between high-speed stops.[/list][/u] NOTE - If pads do not get bedded properly and / or used to hard right out of the box will likely lead to pad glazing. Pad glazing is a condition where the resins in the pad crystallize on both, the pad friction surface and the brake disc surface, resulting in poor stopping performance, brake judder and vibrations.Also rapidly escaping volatile elements and moisture from the resin would seek an immediate escape route out of the friction compound, creating small fissures that would lead shortly to cracking and chunking. BRAKE DISCS If possible, pads should be bedded on used but NOT worn out brake discs. Pagid brake pad material can be used either on solid, grooved or cross-drilled discs. For disc bedding please refer to the disc manufacturers� own instruction. MOUNTING NEW PADS ON USED DISCS Edges of pad surface should be filed roughly to 45 degrees to ensure that the pad carries fully and evenly and is not touching the edge of the disc. Do not use discs, which are pre-bedded, or have been used with friction material other than PAGID.

and.......... print but officer, I was bedding my brakes, I had to go 110mph.... LOOK! -seriously, THANKS!

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I suppose there many different flavors on how to do it and do not claim to be an expert at any of them , but have found it difficult to push back with everything when closed off. By having one side of the tube in a catch can if the caliber moves back out after pressing pad "in" then it sucks up the fluid and not air. My favorite is a cheepie from checker auto that you can hookup to both bleed screws at once. Also when the catch can gets full then I just pour it back into the reservoir. I have been thinking for a poor man's power bleeder is to to use a disposable pump able weed sprayer (gallon size) from ACE putting a gauge on it and adapting to a extra reservoir cap for bleeding. Fix your yard and car at one sitting. Until then I will have to keep yelling at my wife to hold the pedal to the floor.