Double row IMS bearing meassures?

Hi guys: A friend of mine is searching to buy a double row bearing for his car. I know that a single row bearing is 20x47x14 mm size but we don't know the meassurement of double row, anyone knows it? Thanks in advance.

Jake would know since he is making them. Are you going to try replacing one with an off the shelf bearing?

My car has single row bearing, and It's in the workshop to do the retrofit, but I was trying to help to a friend of mine who wants to do the same with double row bearing. Here you can see what I'm doing: https://rennlist.com/forums/7365093-post68.html It's similar to Jake's purpose but different way to proceed. I prefer large bearing support and I decided to go for it after talking to 2 engine engineers. So I don't want to disturb Jake as I'm not going to purchase him the retrofit kit. I purchased several things from him but the bearing was from SKF. Thanks in advance

The challenges you'll face with the dual row bearing are going to be much different than the single row.

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Thanks Jake I recommend him to go for your IMS retrofit Kit and don't try to make any experiment... What I'm going to do is a easy task for any mechanic. Jake, I wanted to know your opinion about the increase bearing support size in reman engines: I talked to a Porsche Centre mechanic and he told me that the ultimate bearing support was made in 14 mm large bolt instead of 8 mm original pieces. Why didn't you increase the bolt in your kits?

The problem with the double row is it has the groove for the snap ring. Im not saying you CANT find one. But I think you will have a lot more time invested than it worth when LNE already did the leg work. It really does amaze me that people are crying about paying $700 for the LNE kit... Maybe these guys need to go buy an 80's camamro

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You are right! My opinion was to go with a custom made larger bearing support that the LN kit 'cause I prefer this design, not for saving money. LN/Raby's Kit is very cheap considering there are lots of working hours behind it to develop the kit

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Thanks for taking my A-hole comments in stride. I am an acquired taste

Sorry, but my english has a lot of limitations... What's the meaning of "aquired taiste"?

The more you are around something the more you like something. And if your english is not the good I should have at least spelled it right.. See my english isnt much better.

Here is an example of "acquired taste" When you try beer for the first time: 1st taste = 2nd taste = 3rd taste = 4th taste = 5th taste = Once you have "acquired the taste" for beer, here's what happens after drinking 6 beers = Next day, go back to the top and start over again!

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Thanks Tim Excellent explanation

The reman engines that use a 14mm OD shaft have a much larger bearing OD, in fact it is larger than the bore in the case that allows bearing removal. The reason we didn't go to a 14mm OD bolt was because we must maintain the stock bearing OD to allow the bearing to pass through the bore in the case. Increasing the inner race diameter to allow for the larger stud would have physically made that impossible without compromising the diameter of the bearings rollers. In that instance the bearing would have seen a reduction in strength just to allow for a larger stud diameter, which would create diminishing returns. When the factory went to the larger bearing OD the inner race diamater and associated components all became proportionately larger which required a larger support for the inner race on the stud. Since the part was larger and they had the real estate to work with the stud diameter was increased. The center stud provides pre-load for the bearing's inner race. A bearing that is perfectly healthy will not exert as much force on the stud as a bearing that has began to fail and begins to microweld the outer race to the inner race. Because the inner race is supported by the stud the stud is broken when the inner race begins to rotate after the bearing has failed and the inner and outer races have become one unit after being fused together. The moral of the story is the larger stud will not make up for a bearing that will fail. The other aspect is that in a retrofit application the larger stud that would have a proportionaly larger inner and outer race to that of the larger stud cannot be fitted to an assembled engine. Doing so would create a weaker bearing, there is only so much room within the engine and only so much can be done when reducing the compromises associated with the updates. You can trust that when the bearing begins to fail the 14mm OD stud will also be sheared in half, just like the 8mm units are- I have seen this first hand. The stud we did use is made of superior material, (even at it's diameter) it has a considerable advantage over other studs of the same size and so does it's fastener. Plain and simple: A larger stud will not provide the security of higher quality bearing. Remember Porsche says this can't be done and most techs have never extracted a bearing because of that. I just talked to a tech yesterday from a Porsche Dealership that called to ask us questions about a bearing failure, he was so lost that he thought the bearing was an "inner race rotation" unit. I applaud ypour efforts but you should spend more time studying the engine yourself than asking other people for their opinions, no matter what their qualifications are. Chances are after reading this thread you'll know more than they do anyway-

Joaquin, I just measured my intact dual row bearing. I have the following measurements outside diameter 47mm inside diameter of opening 20mm and width of the bearing 24mm 47 X 20 X24mm Remember there is a snap ring with a groove approximately 1 mm from the edge with a width of approx 1 mm ..I measured with a ruler, not a caliper

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I want to thank ypu for your explanation I know you spent a pile of hourd developing your upgrades and retrofit kts Thank you