996.1 Clutch worn out in only 22k miles?

The clutch on my 996.1 was replaced 22,000 miles ago and just started slipping when you accelerate hard in 3rd gear. The car is driven a very conservatively all of the time. My son did autocross it 4 times, but the starts aren't that traumatic. They intentionally have a bit of a rolling area before the start timing line to minimize the need for radical starts. I'm very surprised to see it worn after only 22k miles. Also, it went from 100% fine (zero slip in the last autocross he did) to slipping fairly easy with heavy throttle with less that 50 miles put on after the autocross. Is it normal for the clutch to wear out this fast? Could there be something else causing it (e.g. something like leaking fluids on the clutch disc)? I'm really confused how it went from perfect in an autocross, to slipping just a few miles later.

It might not be the clutch plate. 997 are also known to have cracked pressure plate that causes slipping. However, the fix is the same. Replace the entire clutch/pressure plate/throw out bearing / pilot bearing assembly.

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Thanks very much for the reply. Do you know if this is a common occurrence? I searched the 996 forum a lot to try to find any information about clutch longevity, and couldn't really find anything.

Its not normal to loose the clutch this fast. Did u replace the dual mass flywheel when u did the clutch? They do fail on occasion

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Yes, the flywheel was replaced with the clutch. Unfortunately, there are no parts numbers for the individual parts on the receipt, only prices, so I can't tell exactly which part numbers were used. This was done in 2013 at 62,001 miles -- based upon the prices below, relative to Suncoast current prices, I'd guess they are factory Porsche replacement parts: 1 Flywheel $1025.53 1 Release Bearing Guide3 $44.94 8 Flywheel Bolt $17.60 6 Pressure Plate Bolt $5.40 1 Pilot Bearing. $35.36 1 IMS Bearing Update $695.00 1 Clutch Kit. $753.90

Unfortunately the next step is to pull the trans and inspect. Maybe buy from fcp so u get free replacements . (Actually thats what i did for my car.)

Is the pressure plate crack normal? You be the judge.

Pressure plate failure between the fingers is when mine gave up at 130K+

FCP seems like a good idea, though I'd hope this is the last clutch I'll buy. I'll probably want something stronger given the failure in 22k miles, and the occasional autocross. It looks like Sachs makes a "Performance" version of the clutch plate and pressure plate, alongside the standard versions. The performance version of the Sachs clutch disk looks a LOT stronger than the standard Sachs disc. It's more difficult to see the differences between the performance and standard pressure plates, at least in these pics. Does anybody have any experience with the Performance versions? Standard Sachs: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...11-15343020355 Sacks Performance: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...s-881861999856 Sachs Standard Pressure Plate: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...11-15143031355 Sachs Performance Pressure plate: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/pre...e-883082999736

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That sucks. Do you know how many miles were on the pressure plate when it cracked, and did you replace it with the same OE part or change to something else?

This thread is a good chance to get some feedback from folks on the Sachs "performance" clutches. So I will help bump it. While my current clutch is a Spec, which is still in good shape after 12 years and lots if track days, new and better solutions always come to market. So it's good to get up to date info on the features, advantages, benefits and drawbacks. Good luck with finding the best solution.

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At 51K miles, the PP was cracked and the Clutch plate was at 50%. The symptoms were clutch slipping at high speed acceleration (at 50MPH, you press on the gas and it slips), and the clutch pedal feels "twisty" at the end of its engagement stroke. The fix was to replace with a brand new Porsche Clutch Package from SunCoast. It only shows that the clutch plate is not the only one to cause slipping.

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Thanks -- I'll check to see if there is anything unusual about the feel at the end of the engagement stroke. Either way, I'm going to have to replace everything, it seems, but would like to know as much as I can, especially with regard to parts selection. I hope to stop by a well-regarded local tech this afternoon to get an estimate.

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Thanks -- definitely hope to get more feedback on the Sachs "Performance" models. The quoted posts below from @Ohmygawd are from another thread ( https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post20009376 ) and talk a little bit about the performance versions, so cutting and pasting them below. I noticed some people on RL call them the Sachs "sports" model -- so I'll search RL again for sports instead of performance next time I have some free time.

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I stopped by the shop today, and after a test drive, they think it might just be an adjustment problem. The clutch engages at pretty close to the end of its travel and there is tension in the pedal. It has always engaged pretty high (doesn't feel any different from when the clutch was new), so it may very well be just adjustment. Also, it didn't slip in the drive today, though we didn't really beat it up hard. The first appointment they have to do a diagnostic is in 2 weeks, so will know more then. I could presumably do that diagnostic/adjustment myself, but since they spend some time looking it, I'll have them do the work. They also mentioned putting a bore scope in to look at the internals. Hopefully I don't need a new clutch, but would still like to continue the discussion on the Sachs Performance clutch disc / pressure plate. I did see this post from @Porschetech3 in this thread ( https://rennlist.com/forums/newreply...ply&p=19677388 ) suggesting it isn't a good idea to use a stiffer pressure plate due to wear on the thrust bearings.

There is no adjustment on these clutches. Either a part is defective(out of spec) or its an install issue. Unfortunately im betting the damage is beyond repair. I had a a truck clutch hang up on the main shaft and i ignored it for too long and it cost me a.replacement.

Peter, Fwiw, just at my indy getting some work done and talking clutches. Recomendation was to continue to use Spec over OEM & Sachs standard for track durability on a car that does double duty on street and track. Case in point is the 12-13 years I have had with my Spec clutch over a high number of track days and plenty of local start and stop driving in Chicagoland. Still going strong. Full track oriented "performance" clutches may require LWFW which in combination create a number of problems that can be solved for, but requires much more money to address. As they put it. Stick with Spec for double duty street and track. No problems with either OEM or Sachs standard for street. Hope it helps.

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Adjustment? We don't need no stinking adjustment! Because there is no adjustment on the 996 clutch.

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Thanks for the feedback. I thought I remembered reading o RL that there was no adjustability, but wasn't sure. The odd thing is that it didn't slip yesterday, either in my drive to the place, or in a brief test drive with two of us in the car going uphill. I didn't really push it hard on the drive there because the place is very close and I was basically there by the time the engine was up to operating temp. Next chance I have, I'll take it out and really drive it hard, but it wasn't difficult to make it slip in the prior drive. I don't feel any wobbliness or twisting in the clutch pedal that @yelcab experienced. I'm still continuing the replacement research path assuming I need to replace it, but I need to drive it again just to make sure it's still slipping.

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Thanks for the feedback on Spec clutches. It's really more of a concours car that I let my son occasionally defile on autocross . I'd rather he be tracking than autocross, to be honest, which he's done in race cars (GR Cup, Spec Boxster, Spec Miata, etc.) -- but I want him to get his own car for track days. If it turns out the clutch did wear or break in 22k miles in very mild "dual use", I will want to put in something stronger than stock, but that still behaves like stock since mellow street use is the 99% use case. The Spec clutch looks like a promising option based upon your experience. It looks like the SP641 is correct "stage 1" kit to work with the dual mass flywheel for a 996.1. The only specification I see listed on their site for SP641 is a torque rating of "430" (presumably ft/lbs and presumably rated with the Spec disc). The Sachs Performance is rated at 403 ft/lbs with the Sachs Organic Performance disc Either one is obviously way more than the stock 996 motor torque, just hoping it will be far more durable for the occasional autocross. I'm leaning towards either one of those mild upgrades over stock, but am also thinking about @Porschetech3 's comment about thrust bearing wear. A search on thrust bearing wear brings me to this thread ( https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...g-failure.html ). That thread doesn't talk too much about performance clutches being a common cause -- but it's clear that clutch pressure is a factor in overall stress on the thrust bearing. What I leaned from that thread is that starting when cold (and without oil circulating) with the clutch in causes thrust bearing wear, so it's a good idea to zip-tie the clutch anti-start switch so that the car will start in neutral (which should always be done once the switch is defeated to minimize wear). Regardless of what I do on clutch, I'll probably zip tie the clutch switch in the spirit of thrust bearing conservation. Sachs: https://www.aascomotorsports.com/pro...hmuE2-7u1UGXuP Generic picture of the stage 1 Spec Clutch kit from https://specclutch.com/products/#performance-clutches SP641 page (not much info): https://specclutch.com/product/sp641/

I haven't looked at the difference in prices to compare Spec with OEM and Sachs for years. That may be the decision point given your user case. While Spec has proven to be durable, it wasn't cheap a decade ago. I suspect the same today. In reality, you can't go wrong with OEM or Sachs. Both are high quality. Good luck with your decision.

I drove the car again today -- like last drive, I could not get the clutch to slip with full throttle in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. It slipped easily on the drive before that, when it was slipping. I'm thinking that maybe the clutch plate was hung up -- I slid my foot off the pedal a few times to snap it back. Or maybe there was some kind of contamination on the clutch diusk that eventually burned itself off. The latter doesn't seem likely -- not sure how it would get there, and the car has never leaked a drop of anything. I tested clutch engagement more thoroughly today to see where it engages, and It stopped slipping before the pedal is fully let out. I'll continue to monitor it, and maybe have my son do an autocross (have been holding off because of the clutch). I'm still going to be thinking about what parts I'll use if it does come back. My current thought is to use the standard stock/OE pressure plate, and the "Performance" version of the Sach clutch disc. Rationale -- stock pressure plate does not increase pressure on thrust bearing; 2) Sachs "Performance" clutch disc seems more robust than stock (assuming the disc is what is found to be worn). Price-wise, the Spec and the Sachs performance are very close in price for disc and pressure plate. I don't care about price though for the clutch bits -- I just want something more durable.