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YOUR RESEARCHBrake Fluid advice
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Replace from oem
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Leading evidence: 'Replace from oem' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace brake lines' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Here's what I use (and I am sure most of the guys here):
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1) I used about 1.5 L of fluid for the brakes and the clutch.
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I used Ate blue for my first flush and will use gold next time.
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I have used Ate Super Gold for a long time in earlier cars (914, 993) and wondering what is the new greatest fluid.
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What do you guys use for your 996 street cars for brake fluid? I have used Ate Super Gold for a long time in earlier cars (914, 993) and wondering what is the new greatest fluid. Will be attempting my first brake/clutch flush on this new (to me) 2002 996 C2. Will post pics tomorrow when I get rid of the pumpkins on this bone stock car
I have strongly considered doing blue as that has always been my usual routine. Out with the gold in with the blue then next time the opposite. Really just wondering if there are specific recomended fluids for this car that would be better to try, especially considering the hydraulic clutch.
95993, I changed to ATE Gold as I cooked my stock fluid once on the track. Works well for the street and track (last DE at 100F). You're in Ashburn; OG Racing has it usually on stock for $11/liter. I'd have changed to SRF but I didn't find it locally and I was too late to order via internet. The price is steep ($70/liter) but you just need <1 liter anyway.
I live in Oakley out in the delta and will be tracking my car 2/3 times a year with the PCA GGR. Is Motul what you suggest then for me as I am about to flush the brake system? Plus where do I get Motul? And any advice on flushing the system?
Thanks in advance
If you can't find it locally, Google it and mail order some. You want the RBF 600. It comes in 1/2 liter bottles, you'll need 2 of those. I've always had others flush my fluid, so I can't comment on that.
My experience with GGR is that you don't get enough track time to boil anything...
You should come out to Thunderhill next week with HOD and start the long weekend a day early. There should be plenty of P-cars there, myself included (say I referred you).
http://www.hookedondriving.com/category.cfm?category=1
Well I
used
to be a *****, but now I am just a jealous tease ;-)
I think I will try the motul this time around. I will use my motive bleeder to do the job as always. Any recomendations on the clutch side? Are there decent DIY instructions for that? I have done the brakes dozens of times but never the clutch.
FWIW I just bled my brakes and clutch for the first time ever last week using Loren's instructions. They are excellent. I will add the following:
1) I used about 1.5 L of fluid for the brakes and the clutch.
2) My clutch bleed valve was 11 mm.
3) It's a huge PITA getting to the clutch bleed nipple. Make sure you have long enough tubing (at least 2'). I think the easiest way is from under the car after removing the driver-rear wheel. It's high up on the transmission, maybe obscured from view by the curly metal hydraulic line.
Have fun.
Well I do not go all the way into the city and I leave pretty early to beat the main rush hour. It is not so bad. RDU - Raleigh/Durham? I suppose VIR is a nice hunting ground for that GT3. IU have been going there since 2000 when they re-opened. Fantastic track.
Smack - thanks for the additional breakdown! I do have a lift so that should make things a touch easier? I have plenty of hose (honest i swear)
Yup, I am pretty much a VIR *****. Can't get enough of that place. Especially in the 3.
By the way, the clutch bleed is a serious PITA!!! Just be ready to have all the fluid pass through and be a total waste if you don't get the valve shut fast enough! Ask me how I know
Oh boy. Well I will let everyone know how it goes. Will get the fluid in the next couple days then maybe do it later this week or the weekend. I like all my fluids fresh.
Hi Dell. I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks that. I think I shaved 2 knuckles loosening the clutch valve. I was wondering about the correct clutch bleeding procedure. Using a power bleeder, are you supposed to open the clutch bleed valve once at the beginning and keep it open while you flush out the bubbles and actuate the pedal 10-15 times and wait 90 seconds, all the while draining fluid, until you are done then close the valve once at the end? That's the way I understood Loren's directions, but it seems to waste a lot of fluid.
I guess I do have one other question as well... Should I activate ABS just prior to doing the flush to try and get the reserved fuild out of that portion of the system? I think that this would be prudent as the circuit will remain closed until needed. I think that is what I will do so maybe just call this a public musing as opposed to a question
You would need a PST2 or PIWIS to do the ABS system.
I use a Motive Power Bleeder to do the entire bleed. If you follow the DIY from the link I posted it should be quite helpful.
Huh? ABS reserve fluid? What's that all about? I just changed from OEM to ATE Super Blue. I didn't activate no stinkin' ABS, is that going to affect anything? Damn I'm clueless.
Sounds like Bill J got himself a 996 to me...
You can't go wrong with ATE or Motul. SRF is overkill, but I swear by that stuff and don't use anything else in the racecar.
You coming to VIR with PCA in Sept or Audi Nov? I guarantee you'll have more fun than you did in the A6. ;-)
-KJ
As I understand it...there is fluid in the ABS system that is only "accessed" when ABS is activated. I believe Dell is saying that there is a tool that will pump the fluid for just the purpose of changing all the fluid in that system. Thats cool but for the DIY guy I think the method described in the link is more than adequate. The percentage of fluid that would not be changed is marginal. Don't sweat it.
Indeed! Not sure on track events this year but anything is possible. September is almost certainly a no but November may be do-able. I cannot wait to get familiar with this car. It is quite capable and much different than the "raw" porsche experiences I have had thus far.
Want to thank everyone for the information and links to the DIY. Did everything last night and worked out very well. I did end up using ATE fluid as it was available at OG (about 5 minutes from my home) and have always had great luck with it. BTW all bleed screws on my 2002 were 11mm, not a mix of 11 and 9 as the instructions indicated were needed. In any event it was very needed as some of the calipers released some nasty particulates and the color of the fluid was nowhere close to the clear light yellow of the new ATE gold.
So I found the service receipt when the previous owner had the 30K service done and they flushed the brake system then (the car has 34K on it now).
The line for the parts used for this flush says:
000-043-203-66 ORMD-BRAKE FLUID
So what does that mean I have in the system?
Plus what is the correct size of the allen wrnech needed to remove the caliper bolts?
Thanks in advance
Why would you need to remove the calipers? Are you replacing the lines as well? If all you are doing is a fluid flush the system stays in place. If the dealership did the flush they used DOT4 standard fluid.
Yes I am replacing the lines and doing a clean-up of the area, so I want to remove what I can.
I already picked-up the fluid from the dealership after I discussed it with them.
Now I need to know what size allen wrench I need to remove the caliper bolts and the torque for them when I re-install them.
Ah. Ok well your best bet is to get a set of allen sockets in the larger range. They are really handy for all sorts of projects and allow you to use your torque wrench. The DIY below should be ample to get you through that task in general. Not sure if the bolt sizes are the same. I have used the quite accurate german measurement of gutentight on those
http://p-car.com/diy/brakepads/
Thanks for the info and link, much appreciated.
I wasn't aware that gutentight was a german measurement, I thought it was german for virgin or was that goodntight
OK I need to bring this thread back to life for a quick question.
I have everything I need to replace my brake lines, but I do not have someone to press the brake pedal to bleed the brakes. So I am looking for the 'exact' solution that can allow me to bleed my brakes myself. I have heard of devices that connect to the top of the master cylinder, so is there one made for our 996?
Thanks in advance.
If you are changing the lines as well, make sure to depress and hold the brake pedal to full stop right before opening the system. This will prevent the entire fluid system from running out the fittings. Just put it to the floor and then wedge a piece of wood or whatever between the seat mount and the pedal. When you crack the lines the fluid that is in the Master Cylinder and that line will squirt out, but then no more will escape. You will be replacing all the fluid anyway, but this will prevent unnecesary draining of the reservoir and possible MC trapped air and/or seal issues. Others may chime in with other options but this is what I have done in the past with great results.
