Engine lid limit switch

Greetings: I have a 2001 TT. The engine lid can only be released with the help of a an additional person to activate the door sill switch while I apply upward pressure on the lid. The trouble light under the lid remains on when the lid is closed and latched. I have taken the bulb out of the socket, but I would like to fix both these problems. Is the limit switch part of the latch mechanism? I have attached a pic of a fixture (the black metal with what look like two copper contacts, one at top of fixture the other at the bottom), protruding from the fixture itself. I don't see anything resembling a slot that these would insert into on the lid, but it does look like copper and I don't know why or what this does. There is second identical fixture on the right side of the chassis. The switch in he door sill activates the latch, but as I mentioned, but it needs further pressure upwards at the lid for it to unlatch. Seems like the light remaining on and the sticky lid are the same problem with a contact perhaps in the latch itself at the chassis?

Quotes source post: 20013604

Sounds like the latch is sticking. Latch is in center of rear panel at rear of engine bay. The piece in your pic is not the lid latch. I'd spray WD40 with straw directly into the latch forcefully and liberally soak it all over, twice. Then close lid and open lid several times, spraying latch again when open. See if that helps...

As said the light in the glovebox, front trunk, and engine lid all come on together when any of those are open. For the engine lid sticking I think you need to adjust the latch. Make sure the U piece on the lid goes into the exact center of the latch or it will not release correctly. I had this exact problem and adjusting the latch fixed it.

Thanks. I was also looking at the latch, but couldn't see how it adjusts; seems to only have two bolts securing it. Impossible to photo in place; I can hear a limit switch "click" when probed with a screw driver and it seems rather wobbly in its slot in the innards of the latch. I guess it needs removal for closer examination, possibly it can be snugged, tomorrow.

Quotes source post: 20013705

There is no glovebox in my car, but the info on frunk and trunk lighting is key. I source power for the batt maintainer through the open/cracked frunk lid; that light goes off at 1 or 2 minutes. The engine lid was staying on though closed. I did lube the chassis receiver and adjust the bumpers on each side or corner of the lid. I believe the latch release problem was solved by the bumpers increasing the upward pressure between lid and chassis, and closing the frunk solved the light problem. I need to power the maintainer from the cig lighter and all should be good. Thanks.

I had this happen to me on the frunk. That part was only $150 (pre-covid pricing), so I just replaced the entire mechanism. I would consider doing that. Also replace the rear gas strut/shock that holds up the deck lid if it�s weak. I don�t think that strut/shock helps lift the rear deck lid, but it might, and it�s a cheap wear item.

Mike: Presently, it is working as designed, so I have no need of investing further time in it. I have a complete maint. history from original owner and the shocks have been replaced. I did check Suncoast for the release and it is now $438. If anyone is considering a Pcar, or repairing same, I would do it NOW, because of the tariff tax that is going to be put in place. I should note for general interest the rubber bumpers are threaded and adjust by twisting, which is quite convenient: so CW reduces clearance (less upward pressure) and CCW increases the clearance.. Hope this little thread is helpful, and thanks to all.

Quotes source post: 20016102

Rubber lid bumpers are used to adjust lid height to match quarter panel height, for the proper panel gap. When latch button is hit the lid should pop up on its own. Reason I suggested wd40 was not so much to lube latch, but to clean out the gummed up smegma that accumulates in it over 20 plus years and gums up the works....