Noise from Front struts - need help...

OK, guys, need some assistance! Just fitted some H&R Sport lowering springs to my 996. Went without a hitch, but now I have a rattle, clank noise coming from the front most noticeable going over bumps at low speed (driving up the curb edge to driveway for instance). It sounds like the new springs are moving in the strut seat carrier. They are very easy to move when the car is jacked up! Everything looks seated correctly so I'm at a loss! I feel like putting some rubber between the spring and strut carrier to see if it is this?? Or grease maybe? A thought, Is it possible to loosen the rod inside the strut when you disassemble the strut, by undoing the top lock nut? Incidentally I did this with an impact wrench. Any ideas gang?? Need help quick. Need to get to work tomorrow!!!! Thanks, Karl.

I had the same problem when I installed mine. What happened is that bolt at the top of the strut rod is still loose. To tighten, simply remove the small black plastic cap that covers the access hole. Then, using a hex wrench to hold the strut rod, tighten the bolt using an open-end wrench. I eventually ended up removing the bolt completely (you don't have to remove the strut since the weight of the car holds the strut together) and I put a washer on to act as a spacer in order to remove the slack. Found the washer at Home Depot. I hope that helps you; can't remember what the wrench sizes were but they were metric (maybe 8mm and 22mm).

I have this same problem, but how do you tighten the nut? I can hold the hex 'bolt', but the nut is below the sheet metal (see pic)

Check the top strut nut and if the conical spacers at the top of the struts were installed properly. I had a similar "thunk/clunk" and it turned out to be the spacer was upside down. It's not that uncommon for an installer (or even yourself)...to put them on upside down. C.

I thought I would have a difficult time, but the open-end wrench will fit in there enough to hold the nut. It is much easier to use a hex head socket attachment, that way you just have to hold the nut in place and rachet the hex.

Quotes source posts: 5242813, 5242421

So would I be turning the hex counter-clockwise while holding the nut, in order to tighten things up? Should the spacer be pointing up, like a hat? or down like a cup?

According to my instructions from Renntech, and observing upon disassembly the cup points as the image above (curved upwards) and the opposite direction underneath the shock swivel assembly. Going to try the washer idea tomorrow. Completely tore down the front end tonight to inspect and also cut down the bumper rubber by .75" which I missed on the instruction 1st time around! Couldn't find anything obvious and nothing, and I mean nothing is loose!!! I've checked every damn nut/bolt and can't find anything. Hoping the washer solution will work. Starting to **** me off!!!! Thanks for the input.

K, I just saw this thread. Good luck with it. I hope you figure it out. The first things that came to my mind were the top shock nut and mounting bolt around the shock body or possibly the swabar end links.

I had a similar problem with the H&R springs. The guys at RUF finally tracked it down to a slightly worn tie rod end and rack and pinion. I was surprised since the car only has 32K miles, but replacing the parts seems to have cured the problem.

Hey Arnee, me too. Jim, that sucks. Was it expensive. But my thoughts are, how can those parts suddenly become worn after the install? Especially as the noise wasn't there before. Taking it to an indy today to have the alignment done so going to pick their brains!

OK, just spoke to H&R. They have suggested that when loosened the top nut, (With an impact wrench) that I loosened something in the shock body. I had considered this myself, so when I disassembled the shock I tested the rod by pushing it up and down and couldn't feel any play, dampening was also as expected???? Is it possible to loosened something inside the shock body???

Quotes source post: 5243038

Conical side down. It fits perfectly on the mating side of the strut. Having this washer inverted will cause a thunk to be heard. See Here: Good luck. C.

The logic that Hans gave me is that there is different stress on the rest of the parts (steering etc) that makes the wear more pronounced. The wear was always there, just not noticable with the stock springs. The rack & pinion is about $800 from Porsche. Ruf took care of the install and redid the alignment - Great service, but the extra parts were unexpected.

Chad, yep! Thanks for the diagram. Definitely on correctly. Just picked up the car from the Indy... no loose nuts!!! Although I'm going to be a loose nut real soon. They suggested a rubber hose on the bottom of the spring, my be spring chatter between the perch and spring!!! Even thought the stock set-up is metal to metal! May swap over to the stock springs which will tell me If I screwed the stock struts with the impact. Anyone think I may have damaged the struts inside with the impact?

Might wanna check your drop links, they might be loose... just a thought.

Drop Link? Can you describe it?

Quotes source post: 5245579

The swaybar link between the shock body and swaybars. That's normally a culprit, like I mentioned. p.s. I missed your call earlier, I apologize. It seems you have your hands full trying to figure it out. I'll call ya later.

I thought I would post the conclusion to this thread so it would prove useful to anyone in the future. The problem was the spring. Not the shock as H&R suspected. The spring has a marginally smaller diameter than the stock spring. This combined with the lack of pre-load over the stock spring allows the spring to move around on the perch. The noise was a result of the spring compressing and rotating into the perch stop on the lower part of the strut. The spring wants to rotate when compressed as a result of how the spring is wound/coiled. Solution: Placed a piece of plastic hose on the end of the spring. Problem solved. May not last forever but ensures that I won't go mad in the mean while!

Thanks for the update. My top washer seems to be upside down, according to the diagram. What diameter hose did you use?

Not sure exactly. It's pretty close to the diameter of the spring though. You can buy it at any Lowes or Home Depot, It's essentially irrigation tubing for flower beds....

Still double check that drop link. Normally the spring does not fully extend when going over a bump at low speed.

hey guys ,,, I just had the H&R springs fitted and got the car back yesterday .... '02 996 C2 It looks 100x better than US stock ride height ,,, I have a nasty cold so I just drove home and didn't pay too much attention to anything but getting in the bed ... my Q ,,, what sort of issues can arise if the " thunk" sound isn't addressed ? thanks -