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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHPower Window Doesn't Work
Reported repair
Use "zip-tie" fix
Reported resolution
1
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that report a fix
1
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Reported fix
I used the "Zip-Tie" fix to hold the cable tight back to the rail again and now the window goes up and down smoothly like new, no more noise.
Leading evidence: 'Use "zip-tie" fix' (1 discussions report resolution; 0 report an unsuccessful attempt). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Use "zip-tie" fix' (1 discussions). For that action, 1 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. The most frequently reported fix is 'Use "zip-tie" fix', supported by resolution reports in 1 discussions. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I've disconnected my battery w/o the radio needing to be reprogrammed before, but this time it will be disconnected for over 24 hours before I can get the new regulator and install it.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I've disconnected my battery w/o the radio needing to be reprogrammed before, but this time it will be disconnected for over 24 hours before I can get the new regulator and install it.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
It took me 2 hours on mine, it was pretty easy but I used a manual.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
Do a search for 'Window Regulator' or 'How to adjust the windows'.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I've disconnected my battery w/o the radio needing to be reprogrammed before, but this time it will be disconnected for over 24 hours before I can get the new regulator and install it.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I've disconnected my battery w/o the radio needing to be reprogrammed before, but this time it will be disconnected for over 24 hours before I can get the new regulator and install it.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
23 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T194705Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I'm suspicous the mechanism hardware is broken. I can hear the motor running but the window won't go up and down. The passenger was broken when I bought the car and the cable system inside the door panel was frayed and worn out.
Anyone have a DYI on replacing this hardware and a part number?
I watched my indy do it and it took about 30 minutes. How hard is this as a DYI?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
I have the same issue right now, but not as bad. The cable has gone slack and doesn't drop as it should when you left the door handle. I just did a quick fix by adding a couple of zip ties to the ends of the cabling where a Green plastic piece locates the wire into the regulator frame. Although I believe your wire has snapped completely - bummer, as they run around $180-$235!!!!
Do a search for 'Window Regulator' or 'How to adjust the windows'. There's a good diagram in the second post. It's pretty straight forward, just use the correct nylon tools to pry the door panel off (not screwdrivers!) and remember to disconnect the battery. Airbag in the face is going to hurt like a bitch!
hope this helps...
There is no mechanical system other than the bowden system (window reg). The motor bolts to the reg and to the door (sandwich). If you hear the motor running, you simply snapped the cable. I doubt the gear/spool would strip out. It took me 2 hours on mine, it was pretty easy but I used a manual.
Someone has posted a DYI in the past with pics that would be useful, the door panel is the trickiest to get off if you dont know where it is attached.
Yeah, I did this zip-tie trick on my BMW front regulator too and now the window works smoothly like new. If you start hearing the grinding noise from the cable, you could try to zip-tie the cable back on the rail. Looks like you do need to replace yours. It should not be too hard, do a search and you will find a nice DIY from a Boxster owner. Easy DIYI and save a bunch... Good luck!
Mine works , but when lowering it, there comes a cracking noise from the window I belive, what could be wrong? Its kind of embarrerassing to lower it =)
I just uploaded the shop manuals online for the 996 last night - there is a link on 6speedonline. Haven't read it yet, but there may be some helpful info. in the manuals. I haven't had that issue yet.
Bob
Well that creaking noise could just come from the cable that is out of the railing meachanism because I had that same noise on my BMW. It's due to the cable that is dragging behind the door panel hitting the metal frame. I immediately stopped using the window, then opened up the door panel to check. It was only the little broken tab holding the cable in place flush with the rail mechanism. I used the "Zip-Tie" fix to hold the cable tight back to the rail again and now the window goes up and down smoothly like new, no more noise. At first, I thought I had to replace my window regulator too. You should try to check yours out to see if it is just this same issue before bringing the car to the dealer. For sure they will charge you for the whole new regulator+labor. I believe this mechanism is the same or similar on all german cars. Good luck! Cheers,
The dealer wanted $500 to replace it in my TT. This is in a CPO car that I have owned for a year and used the window maybe 2 times. I dont hear any noise and it seems to work fine but they say its broken??? Its not covered of course. They found this while i was in getting a oil change and its the same dealer that CPO'd the car!
I did the troubleshooting of mentioned of opening the door, pushing the window down, then closing the door. The window did in fact move up the 1/2 or so to close. Does that mean the cable is still intact but just loose or out od it's rail??
Where can I get this nylon tool to pull the snaps away from the door without damaging them?
mrgroove
Found the window regulator thread. WoW! Thanks. Looks like a lot of work but I think I'm gonna try it. Hopefully I can just adjust. Either way, I might save $225 in labor.
Now that I've made it through the spark plug replacement, I feel empowered!!!
they all go bad from time to time.
one quick note, you need to dis-connect the side-air bag. before doing that, make sure u disconnect your battery first. and don't try to re-connect your battery to "QA" your fix. otherwise you will end up with a air-bag warnning light causing your a trip to the dealer and 1 hour labor.
Being the el cheapo that I am, I wanted to take the door panel apart to insure that I really needed to replace the regulator. It's looks like I do as the cable is very loose...i.e.floppy.
My question. If I didn't unplug my airbag, can I reconnect the negative terminal w/o issue? I've disconnected my battery w/o the radio needing to be reprogrammed before, but this time it will be disconnected for over 24 hours before I can get the new regulator and install it.
So, should I just leave the negative terminal off or reconnect?
Yes. Do a search "window regulator" and look for the 1st post for a 996 that's not my post (I really need to learn to direct people to a thread).
Anyway, do that, go to the 2nd page and the poster directs you to 2-3 excellent articles on how to remove. I just did it and it took less than an hour. I went to see if I could tighten the cable (which I don't see how you possibly could) and the cable fell in my hand. Good thing I called Hendrick and have a regulator waiting for me in the morning.
I'll add my 2 cents worth. The DYI is very thorough. It's easy to follow but not an easy job. All I needed was a allen wrench set, and a phillips head screwdriver. Once I looked at the pic of where the panel clips were, I just gently pried my fingers under the panel and popped the clips out.
I completed it happily, then when I tried to open the door to get out of the car after a test drive, the front window had lodged against the rear window and the door wouldn't open.
The reason? My window had failed in the closed mode, so I couldn't mark where the clamps were attached to the window so the window was misaligned. However, an easy solution was to mark where the label on the windows lined up with the window seal. Once I tore everything back down
, I figured this out.
Anyway, 4 hours later, I now have a happy healthy opening driver's side window.
I think I could now do the job from start to finish in 2-3 hours, but it's physical challanging.
Hope this helps someone...
Also need 10 mm wrench and 10 mm socket for a couple of hard to reach bolts and 2 flathead screwhead screwdrivers the take air bag tag off...CARE here not to damage leather around it. Read the dyi and all this will make sense.
Happy window operating!!!!
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