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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHTransmission service & upgrades
Leading reported evidence
Replace timing chain guides a couple of years ago
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I replaced my timing chain guides a couple of years ago.
Leading evidence: 'Replace timing chain guides a couple of years ago' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check cam deviation too' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I have used the LN Retro since it first came to market.
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Suggestion
You don't mention your car type/year but if it's 996.1, you'll want to check your cam deviation too.
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Suggestion
If you can hold off, I recommend doing a lot of research before you jump in.
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Suggestion
Unless you want the noise and vibration above 3000 rpm, you are better off replacing the mount with a new OEM mount when you lower the trans to do the IMSB/RMS and give the clutch & flywheel a look.
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27 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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New to 996 community.
I am planning on pulling my transmission for I don�t know if the IMS was ever changed and vehicle has 116k miles on it.
Since I am planning on pulling the transmission to change out the transmission and engine mounts. Can anyone give me some recommendation of service and upgrades that I should do to the transmission at the same time.
I am not trying to keep car genuine Porsche parts, but upgrade to real quality ride even if it is aftermarket parts.
Replace the throw out bearing sleeve replace the throw out fork and throw out fork a pivot ball and seal as well as throw out . Also go ahead and replace your slave cylinder while you�re at it. Replace your transmission mount while you have the transmission out of the car. If interested, I have the transmission amount bushing to removal and install installation tool. You can get the bushing out without the tool, but you can�t get it back in without it. Ask me how I know. I rent the tool for $50 plus a $200 refundable deposit upon tool return. If the case is really dirty, clean it and then change the gear oil. That transmission bushing tool cost me over $400 which ridiculous for what it is, but I had to have it.
Another question. If you are replacing the IMS would you go with the standard single row kit or go with the forever LN Engineering option? I imagine there are a wide variation of opinions here.
1st we need to know if u have an auto or 6spd. If manual u r about due for clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. The dual mass flywheel can also come apart and swapping that will depend in condition. I wouldnt worry about the hydros because that can be done without trans removal. There is nothing interal to be done to either trans unless it leaks or is loud (pinion bearing). For the ims its up to u and your budget. I have friends that track cars on the $20 plain bearing, others go LN dual row and some spend the big bucks for the Solution. Read as much as u can and make an infomed decision.
If you can do this stuff yourself replace what's not working or worn out. Most likely if there is no noise or chatter, and it shifts smoothly the components are fine. Any shop press can get the mount in and out.
Thank you, these are all very helpful. It is a 6 sod manual.
I plan to change flywheel P plate etc. I have a lot of interior work, but really don�t want to be pulling the transition again for a very long time.
The permanent solution seems like a great solution, but my god it is expensive.
Have you tested your AOS? You don't mention your car type/year but if it's 996.1, you'll want to check your cam deviation too. Dealing with either of those issues is much easier with the engine lowered & trans out. Skip (PorscheTech3) has a nice string "engine health" that outlines the AOS and blow-by tests and interpreting the results.
It is a 2000 911 non turbo Cabriolet. I was not planning on taking down engine, just using a temp mount to pull transmission. Sorry for my ignorance, but what is AOS.
sounds like it is something I should look at working on.
Sorry, just realized that stood for air oil separator. Yes I plan on upgrading those as the transmission is down.
If you have any other good suggestions, I�m all ears. Thank you.
I've not pulled the transmission without lowering the engine but getting to that top bolt with the engine in is reputed to make you hate your life. I replaced my timing chain guides a couple of years ago. A fairly complex job and one that you most certainly do not want to botch. It has a lot of overlap with the IMS replacement. I literally spent months researching, reading the manuals, reviewing youtube videos, building a step by step checklist, assembling tools, parts and such. And I've done every bit of work on my car since it rolled off warranty 20 years ago. In other words, I'm not a novice and I still consider the 996 learning curve to be steep. If you can hold off, I recommend doing a lot of research before you jump in.
And what year is your car? Lot of differences between the 3.4 & 3.6 engines. You might consider adding a signature block with your car's details. That will help folks help you.
When I got my 2001 C4 cabriolet last year (tiptronic, not manual), my initial service at my local indy shop was:
• LN Engineering IMS Solution
• New AOS (would have done UAOS but wasn't aware of it at the time)
• RMS was dry with good seal, so left in place
• New Torque Converter
• Transmission service
• New Soul Carrera Sport Catalytic Converters
• New O2 sensors
• New water pump and thermostat
• New expansion tank
• New fuel injection filter
• New spark plugs and coil
• New engine air filter and cabin air filter
• New drive belt
• Bleed and flush brake fluid
• 4 Michelin Pilot Sport 4 All Season Tires
• Alignment
• Oil Change
what about rear subframe bushings, would you use powerflex polyurethane there? I see mixed reviews on that. Same thing with sway bar. I see people might prefer the performance feeling with the powerflex in those two locations
Agree with
@De Jeeper
Unless you want the noise and vibration above 3000 rpm, you are better off replacing the mount with a new OEM mount when you lower the trans to do the IMSB/RMS and give the clutch & flywheel a look.
How do i know? The beginning of the year I had my indy insert the softest Powerflex insert into my worn trans mount and there was quite a bit of noise and vibration. This was a stop gap measure to get me thru this season since I was planning on having them lower the trans at the end of the year to look thru the IMSB, RMS, Clutch and Flywheel.
Well my rear sub frame has solid gt3 bushings and the sways r aftermarket with poly.....then again the entire suspenaion is hiem joints too. I dont mind the ride but it does transmit noise from all the road imperfections.
I have used the LN Retro since it first came to market. At the time, the LN Solution was not yet for sale. I have changed mine every 7 years or so. Pleasantly suprised in its durability. But I track my car so its no big deal to have my indy change it since my engine or trans or both are dropped from time to time to review parts.
If you want a one and done, spend the money for the Solution.
Do your Engine a favor and go with the UAOS w/ track drain instead of the factory AOS. Even if you dont ever plan on tracking the car. Its the Swiss army knife of upgrades which will address many issues.
The UAOS places the AOS in a much more serviceable location, eliminates some coolant and breather lines that frequently fail or leak, and reduces oil ingestion at the intake by improving the AOS function. It takes a quirky, issue prone component that operates between a few systems and integrates fixes for all of them into one product. It�s hard to convey that, but that is why it is so frequently recommended. It�s not a performance part, it�s a revised part that performs correctly.
do you have a specific part or manufacturers kit that you are referring too? Having less parts to fail and easier to access sounds great. As long as does not create other issues.
I�m pretty sure the bugs have all been worked out after several years of customer use. It�s a brilliant solution to keep our engines living longer, happier lives.
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