Rejex: Disappointing

I don't want this to be inflammatory, and I hope I have done something wrong that is the reason for the lackluster results. Here's my experience: I've owned German cars for the last fifteen years, and bmw's my last ten. I have pretty much gone with the products that larry reynolds sells though carcareonline.com (a BMW CCA and PCA advertiser). I've pretty much used a regimen of 3M hand glaze and either blitz wax or P21S, with the latter being my favorite. I've tried all kinds of products over the years, including Zaino, Finish First, Meguires Medallion, Klasse to name the ones I remember. I keep going back to P21S, even though it doesn't last that long. I thought Rejex would be the answer. Applied Rejex August 15 on my new-to-me 30k mile C4S. I washed the car well, glazed the entire car by hand with 3m hand glaze. It was pretty hot out, and mid eighties during the application (morning), but cool days in texas are hard to come by here in TX. The following weekend I went to Texas World Speedway for a track day (Sat.). Coming home, I got caught in a horrific downpour. The gates of hell opened up. Next day, I wash my car, only to find that all the beading action is gone. After it dries, the paint is squeaky to the touch, and the paint feels naked. I believe that perhaps the glaze created a release layer, and the combination of it and the less than optimal temps caused early degredation of the Rejex in the downpour. So, with a stripped car, I went at it again on a cooler day, on 8/22. No glaze this time, just rejex and a bunch of microfiber. Everything was fine afterwards, and it stood up nicely to a single washing last weekend. Two weeks and fingers crossed this stuff will work. Today, I get caught in rain again, during a half hour drive. The rain stops and I wash my car this evening. Guess what? The Rejex seems to have vanished along the immediate areas around the wheels. The water will not bead in these areas, and after washing, I could feel a distinct difference b/t the slickness of the hood/roof vs. the bumper area behind the rear wheels and the rockers in front of the rears. Those areas are now squeaky again (no slickness) and there is no beading. I feel like I'm doing something wrong, as I have yet to read a negative comment on this stuff. Argggghhhh. Edit: Let me add that it is my undestanding that Rejex is susceptible to removal by abrasion, and doesn't really sublime like a carnauba wax will. I'm thinking that for some reason, perhaps only on my car, it cannot withstand abrasion from heavy rains and/or we roads with lots of sand.

Frayed - there have been a few of us here in ATL who have not been impressed with the stuff. I guess it's hard to live up to all the hype it received. I find it to be just about on the same par as One Grand Blitz with the same ease of application. However, I am reverting back to the Carnuaba waxes as I have always been fearful of the polymer waxes for no good reason

Thanks Frank. With all the hype, I was thinking that my experience was wholly unique. EDIT: I'm on the wait list for the Elise, and was just over on Elisetalk to see this: http://www.elisetalk.com/forums/show...&threadid=5374 Notably:

Bummer to hear it didn't work out.

How hot the car's body is, after the application can weaken the curing process. The surface of the car need to be below 85 degrees for the cure time. Even with an air temp of 85, a car body can get above 100 easy, and stay that way for quite a while. The cooler the car is during the curing the better, and for sure it must be below 85 during the overnight curing. After that, as you say in Texas, "bring it on"

I'm in Hawaii. It is ALWAYS warm out. And it rains at least a little bit almost every day. I have RejeX'd all of my cars and swear by it. It sounds like you didn't follow instructions, which as far as I know is quite critical. I have always applied RejeX in the shade (as instructed) on cooled down metal. It will not work on a heated up car. The curing time is critical. I have a lot of cats on my 3 acres (to combat Hawaii's rat problem) and they love to sit on cars. I use car covers for the cars that matter and what I have done is after final buffing, I've covered them up with the car cover to keep anything from affecting the cure. Even my Tundra truck was covered up - one of the car covers over the cab and a tarp over the bed/bed-cover. I let them sit overnight and then buff them once more the next day after uncovering them. It has been a couple of months and the beading effect ion the paint s as good as the first rain on it. It is not working as well on the glass, but I typically use Rain-X regularly to keep the glass beading. One of the best reasons to use RejeX is that there is much less work involved when compared to applying traditional waxes. If I have to re-apply it every 3 months, I'll be quite happy. Hopefully it will last much longer than that. One way of really noticing how well the RejeX works is how hard it is to put a car cover on by yourself. I've got the hang of it by now, but it is really slippery and you need to be on your toes to put it on without it slipping off and landing on the ground. Prior to using RejeX, it was a no-brainer. One area that really shows a difference with RejeX is the rims. My Sport Classics used to look like crap after every time I drove it, and now they look like I just washed them after several drives. I used to wash them after every drive and trust me, they are a B*TCH to clean. I would say try it once more, but this time do it in the shade. I'm sure you have some left in the bottle. I've done the 996, the Tundra, the Nissan Murano (soon to be sold) and one Mini and still have a little bit left in the first of 3 bottles I bought. Tomorrow I pick up the 2nd Mini at the dock for my wife and will finally break into that 2nd bottle of RejeX. Try it again!

The longest lasting stuff I have found is NuFinish. You must be careful not to get it on the rubber surfaces as it leaves a white film. I'm currently using Zymol on my Porsche because it does not leave white on the rubber surfaces. But, Zymol lasts only 4-6 weeks for my (demanding) taste. The overriding factor on the Porsche is that it gets examined more closely at our frequent local PCA events. NuFinish has just a little cleaner/abrasive agent in it so it works perfectly on our daily drivers which get waxed 4-6 times a year. I'm really obsessive about keeping a wax finish on my cars so most people could go longer.

I have to agree with my Hawaiian friend there. I'm not much of a car cleaning fan so the hype convinced me to buy some and apply it while my new(ish) car was still clean. Two months and nearly 3,000 miles later the beading effect is as good as ever. All have done is wash it since then. There were a couple of spots that had bird droppings on them that had stopped beading so I have just applied some regular polish to that until the rest of the car is ready again... No affiliation with the company but so far I am pretty happy with the results. I just hope that a few years from now people are not talking about how Rejex destroys something important the way they did with RainX and motorcycle visors...hey...handg on a mo...they sound pretty similar! Barry

Hey guys, where can I order RejeX? I am happy with Zaino but I want to try RejeX. I am always on the lookout for better products, which is why I switched from wax to Zaino. RejeX sounds like it is just the ticket to finally solving the brake dust problem on my Sport Classic IIs. Thanks, .: programmatore :.

Nevermind. I found it. http://www.corrosionx.com/rejex.html I just ordered a 16 oz. bottle. I can't wait to try it out. One question though: if I put RejeX on my wheels, can I drive my car after I wipe it off (20 minutes after it "hazes") or do I have to park the car and let it cure for 12 hours? Thanks, .: programmatore :.

Since I have a black car it's a real pain but I thought I would chime in also because I love p21s for wax although yes, it doesn't last that long, and secondarily it does cut down on depth and clarity after the polisher/sealer- My regiment- I did it a few days ago in a more abbreviated fashion (only took 5h this time!) Dawn the car using mf mit dry car with mf towels blackfire clay and lubricant- I ran out of the lube so I used meguires quick detail - works fine dawn and dry again Blackfire polish updated version for black cars applies with porter cable with white pad this time- yellow for 1st time/bad swirls/scratches taken off with special polishing mf towls p21s with white taken off special mf polishing towel check the pic-

ok I shrunk it down but it probably looks like crap will redo again if so

My second application was done at night, in my garage. Pretty sure it was below 80. Will try one more time, then I'm back to P21S or Blitz if it doesn't hold up.

Well washed the car day before and rejexed it the next day and waiting for it to cure and see how it goes but so far it's pretty slick like had a hard time putting the car cover on. I also put it on the rims too and see how it goes. Nice thing it's so easy to put on and rub off-no residue and doesn't leave a film on the rubber seals like others I have tried. Good luck Frayed. Mike

frayed-- try again in january--i doubt whether you'll be able to cure your car overnite otherwise

tried rejec and zaino, they are nice, but i don't like the cold acrylic sheen. personal favorite is P21S wax, after P21 paint cleanser, after 3M imperial glaze. P21S has a warm sheen but doesn't last long. wax it every 2 weeks and you be fine. it only takes me 20 minutes to wax the 996 by hand.

There has to be something wrong in your application. Mine has had two coats of RejeX and I am just stunned at how well this stuff lives up to its name. Last week I drove down to Kent (outer London) to the PCGB Festival 2004 event at Brands Hatch. The trip is about 250 miles for me each way. The weather was fairly good that week so it was top down most of the way on the motorway. On the trip down I stopped at a Motorway service center for lunch, all the time keeping an eye on my car in the busy car park. All of a sudden I see a spray go all over my car as this car pulled up next to it. I was cursing mad, certain this guy had deliberatly sprayed his window washer so that it messed my car Porker which was all gleaming and polished ready as I had a slot on the 996 Register display stand. But when I got outside to the car I see he had driven over a can of beer that had sprayed up all over my car and the cab top too. Real messy sticky stuff. Not hs fault though. Anyway, headed on down to Kent. Car now needing badly a wash. Window wipers all stuck with beer goo! Overnighted in a hotel and it had rained through the night quite heavy. Went down to my car to clean the mess but ......holy crap! it was all cleaned up. The rain had cleared up the beer and it was sitting there all beaded up with rain drops. The 10 mile trip to Brands and it was gone. Completely. Car was lovely and shiney like I had just polished it. To add to this, the car sat on the Register stand in the open and was parked next to a dirt track which was constantly blowing up dust every time someone drove down it. Probably a bad spot to park one's car but it wasn't up to me. By the time we left Brands Hatch my 996 was really mucky. We had some very light rain during the day. With the rain and the dust it had really messed the car up. Anyway, I set off home. A real pleasant trip back. When I got back I hosed the car and it sits there right now clean as a whistle. This RejeX stuff is as we say, the dogs dangly bits!

Bernie, Where do you get it in the UK ? I must confess I'm not majorly into cleaning mine - Prefer to drive it !!! (at least when it's dirty I can concentrate on proper driving rather than avoiding puddles etc !!) Apart from normal weekly washing I just apply Autoglym about once a fortnight. - This honestly only takes about 1/2 hour with a clean car. - The result is OK but it's so easy !!! How long does this rejex stuff take to apply ? Adrian

Adrian, I brought a few bottles back from the US on my last trip. But I seem to remember that there is a deal for rennlist members where the cost to order is the same anywhere in the world including shipping.....and it was cheaper than what I payed by a few dollars. I did a search but couldn'ty find the thread. Anyone recall this thread I am talking about? You apply RejeX just like any other wax/polish. Only issue is you need to let it cure overnight and preferably in a spot where it don't get too hot and you get morning due on your car. All I did was wash my car with Mequires gold class then go over it with Meguires clay bar then I did some final cleanup of swirls with Meguires Scratch X. Finally a coat of RejeX. Actually I put two coats on....2nd one the following week. Juts make sure you take off any wax you previously put on the car. Do this with Fairy Liquid......they call it Jane or Maureen or Dawn or something in the US But folks, there may be some competition for RejeX, I bought Meguires new Tech NXT Wax and used it on my Alfa Romeo just to see how it matches up. So far it is doing very well but it's early days yet. But this stuff seems to me to be very similar to RejeX. It has the same feel and lustre to it and it certainly handles bird crap very well. I left it under a tree by accident and I think the world's population of crows crapped on it. But a quick hose and you would never know. Quite impressed with it but will have to wait a few months first.

Here is my Cayenne I Rejex'ed when I got the car in May. It's pretty much the daily driver and it sometimes gets parked outside overnight. Unlike my 911 I use water to clean it once a week. I just spray water on it and wipe it dry. So far it still beads and stays fairly clean....

Will tell you I have happily used Zaino for quite a while- tried RejEx on the TT when I waxed it two weeks ago. While easier to apply, luster is not as deep as two coats of Z2... will be switching back. And the Zaino lasts for 3 months easily; only takes 30 minutes to apply another coat once you do the first two.

I used the Zaino system and recently tried Rejex. Zaino is more effort to apply but I think it works better and the beading lasts longer than Rejex.

I am also a long-time Zaino user who recently tried Rejex. I will probably continue to use Rejex on the X5 and minivan, but wil be going back to Zaino on the 996. Rejex is good stuff... just doesn't blow me away like aino always has... can't beat the depth of shine out of multiple coats of Zaino IMHO. If time were a serious constraint, I'd use Rejex.

Programatorre - That's a great looking bumper! Which one is it? Who makes it?

The 3M glaze you applied before the Rejex is full of fillers and oils that will prevent the Rejex from curing properly with the paint. Synthetics like Rejex and Zaino work best when the surface is free of any prior waxes, polishes, or glazes.

Add me to the list of folks who've tried Rejex but prefer Zaino, which seems to match Rejex in gloss/shine but is more durable.

lom zaino is so much more time consuming, though. i can apply rejex 4 times in the time it takes to do the multi step zaino business. zaino is also much pricier.

I agree, other products may work better, but for the effort applied I don't think anything can beat Rejex? I've said it a million times, I use rejex because i am lazy! haha

I use it because I have so damn many cars and bikes that need to be taken care of. The time saved on each one by using the easiest to apply is worth gold in how much total effort it takes to do all of this. Lazy? Not really. Efficient? Definitely! I just washed my Tundra this morning which was starting to look shabby. It took some elbow grease to get some of the spots off (bird stuff, whatever). Now it beads like I just rejexed it yesterday. I'm really pleased with this stuff. I'm only 5'-9" and let me tell you, it's hard to clean the top of my truck! Plus I'm recovering from shoulder reconstruction surgery from 4 weeks ago and I'm barely using my right arm. It sure is nice having an easy wash job (for the most part) when I'm not at 100% physically.

Here's my cab all RejeX'd up at Brands Hatch. Bear in mind it had just driven 250 miles, had a can of beer squirted up all over it and rained on. All it took was a hose down. No more. Lining up on the Indi track with roughly 300 other Porkers attempting to beat the world record!

Berny, sweet. In that first picture it looks like you have a HUGE ear ring.

Nice one Kirby ha ha! That's my son sitting in the drivers seat. The HUGE earing looking thing is a dangly car smelly. You know the thing that makes your car smell sweet. I see what you mean though. I am that fat bloke with the cap on in the 3rd pic.

Thanks Stevo. I have the Ruf RGT front bumper and side skirts. It is hard to see the bumper's details on my ocean blue car but here's a nice picture from the Ruf website: http://www.ruf-automobile.de/galerie...500/bild03.jpg Anyway, it is reassuring to hear that some of you guys tried both Zaino and Rejex and stuck with Zaino. I've been a happy customer of Zaino for about 4 years. I still want to try Rejex though -- I figure if it is good enough to protect military helicopters from turbine exhaust stains it should work well for my Sport Classics and exhaust tips. ;-) .: programmatore :. BTW, here's a picture of my car after I applied the third coat of Zaino Z2.

hello all, i thought i'd chime in with my $0.02 worth. i'm very happy to hear that several folks have very positive experiences with RejeX. thanks for posting your feedback. and regarding the post about the rennlist discount, please call us at [phone removed] to place an order as we're still offering rennlist members and visitors the price of $16.09 plus $2 shipping to any address. our website should be updated this weekend so you won't have to call, you'll simply click a link to go to a forum discount page. more details about this later in the week. as for RejeX and durability,,, RejeX will not degrade just by exposure to air or rain water. RejeX is designed to resist acids, solvents, fuels, detergents/soaps, and other corrosive agents like exhaust gas residue and bug guts. it mostly degrades by abrasion from particles in the air as you drive. if you have had reduced durability, then the primary culprits are the things already mentioned... 1) too warm a surface temperature when applied or during the cure time, or 2) previous applications of other products to which RejeX has to adhere to. in order to reduce surface temps for an application, the wash water should cool the surface, and a shady location should keep it from warming back up. however, i lived in dallas for several years and i know for a fact that water coming out of the Cold tap can be 85* during the summer, even at night. i don't have any suggestion for overcoming that issue other than to wait for cooler temps. sorry. as for putting RejeX over existing polishes or waxes, a good soap and/or a clay bar should be all that's necessary in most cases. i do not jump to the conclusion that rubbing compounds should used as you can introduce far more problems than low durability if you use abrasives improperly. if an experienced person with good equipment performs the process, then it can do a lot of good, but will not eliminate the silicone oil issue as that stuff can seep deep into the paint. if you have previously used waxes or polishes that contain silicones, then it will be difficult for RejeX (or most anything) to have much durability. silcones shine really well, but can cause issues later. as for the issue of shine, i respect each person's opinion as to which product they feel shines their car the best. i used zaino for years, and have a very good idea of how well it works, and how much effort it takes to apply it. some folks prefer it over RejeX, some don't. if you've used both, then you have a a basis for a valid opinion. i recommend you use the product that makes you the happiest. so, i hope this helps you make an informed decision. my thanks to those you've tried RejeX, and many thanks to those who've posted their very kind words. the rennlist and pca folks have been very enthusiastic about the product, and i appreciate it very much. please feel free to call if you have any questions. barry X-Auto Products (rennlist sponsoring vendor) [phone removed] www.x-autoproducts.com

Question: what soap to use prior to using Rejex? We just bought a new 05 ML 350 SUV 2 weeks ago and I want to protect it with this stuff. Since it is new I don't think it needs to be clayed, but I understand all previous wax has to be removed. The Wax that it came with, applied at the dealer, seems almost gone already.

They use the cheapest wax at dealerships to get the cars out the door looking half-way decent. I use "Dawn" as it will strip away all of that cheap wax. And don't factor out a real close going over with clay beforehand, small bug gut spots or other stuff can be on it already. Best not to lock in that stuff under the rejex. You don't need to clay the entire car, but go over it real close up and get any stubborn spots (that can be there from the first day off the lot). Note: My Tundra is getting close to 3 months now on the rejex and I mentioned I washed it yesterday morning. Well it rained like hell in town last night while I was at the studio and came out to my truck all covered in beads of water. As I drove off, it all rolled off the paint as if I had just done a fresh wax job on it. I am really happy with RejeX.

Question: Will the RejeX work on my truck's Alcoa aluminum rims? It doesn't take long for them to look terrible and it takes quite a bit of elbow grease to buff them out. Can I rejex them after buffing? What product to polish tarnished aluminum would work best and not leave residues that may inhibit proper adhesion of the RejeX? I've used Mothers and/or polish wadding, but don't know what they might leave on or in the metal.

Stevo'99 yes, you can use RejeX on aluminum rims. it was made to protect the aluminum skin of military aircraft. it reduces the accumulation rate of brake dust, and reduces the effort involved to remove what brake dust does stick (because of how slippery it leaves the surface). there have been posts here, and on corvetteforum.com and others, about how well RejeX performs at keeping wheels clean, and making them easier to clean with only a blast of water from the hose, without having to scrub. apply it in a thin layer, and wipe it off extremely well. then let it cure for 12 hours. thanks, barry X-Auto Products [phone removed]

what is so great about this product? does it have teflon? I haven't heard it given much acclaim in the professional detailing boards- no flame just unfamiliar with composition of product etc.

Quote: zaino is so much more time consuming, though. i can apply rejex 4 times in the time it takes to do the multi step zaino business. zaino is also much pricier. For the initial application, I would agree with the time, as Zaino recommends stripping the old finish via washing the car with Dawn, followed by misting/removing Zaino gloss enhancer, apply/remove Zaino polish and another gloss enhancer treatment. Once the initial coat of polish is on, subsequent treatments can consist of merely washing the car, or wash and gloss enhancer, or wash and polish, or any combination thereof. Washing the car and applying a coat of Zaino polish takes no more time than washing the car and applying a coat of Rejex. Washing the car and applying a coat of gloss enhancer only can be done quicker than a wash/Rejex application. Zaino doesn't have an 85 degree ceiling for application and doesn't require a 12 hour curing period as Rejex does. Zaino is more expensive per measure, but my experience has been that Rejex is less durable and requires multiple applicatios to maintain similar gloss and shine over the same period of time and exposure to the elements, negating any initial cost savings and time in application. I'm not affiliated with Zaino in any way, shape or form.........

I would use Dawn, then clay bar the entire car- it does get contaminants embedded in the paint during transport, especially if it sits at the port for any length or time; lots of industial fallout all over the bonnet/roof. Just did my new Cayenne, and they clay was black after I did the bonnet/roof. Also might think about doing the windows (!) with clay- they also get a good deal of cr&p on them during transport. Then wax of your choice.....

Hi. Have used rejex for about 12 month and have had good results so far. Use it on my 01 BMW 3 series and my newly acquired 99 996 C2 and the wife's 04 ML350 and have had no problems. In fact I did both the 996 and my wife's SUV 2 weeks ago and she got folks stopping her to ask here who detailed her vehicle as the glaze was so deep and brilliant especially on an all black SUV. My 996 is Arena Red too so I will say that Rejex does tend to bring out the shine in darker colored vehicles better. Also you do need to pay attention to the temp outside when you apply it to get the BEST results. I put mine on with BOTH vehicle while parked in the shade and then moved them into the garage to cure and removed the glaze that forms inside the garage with an orbital buffer/waxer and clean/new pad. Then applied RainX to the winshields. Then I leave the vehicles under cover for at least 12 hrs before driving OR exposing them to the elements. So far GREAT results. Still beading up appearance now going on 2-3 weeks later and I know cause Hurricane Charley and Frances have been seein that we get our fair share of rain lately. Haven't tried the wheels yet but will try that as brake dust on ALL our vehicle accumulates too dayum quickly. But definately try to apply AND cure it in the shade and low temps. Mdrob ======= '99 996 C2 (mine) '01 BMW 3 series (mine) '04 ML350 SUV (heres) 2 kids (OURZ)