996 Cabriolet Rear Window Regulator

I just finished replacing my 3rd 996 Cab rear window regulator. It's not too difficult to do, and you can save yourself a ton of money considering this repair at a dealership is in the $2k+ range from what I understand. A few tips: 1). Bag and label all nuts and screws and it doesn't hurt to number the removal order of each part to aid in re-assembly. 2) Use Power Window Repair in Phoenix to rebuild your old regulator (I have no affiliation, I'm just a 2x satisfied customer). It's $199 to rebuild your old regulator better than OEM with metal, not plastic parts. They have quick turnaround and great customer service too. Shipping each way was about $30. I considered some of those $30 DIY repair kits, but considering the effort to remove and replace the regulator, I recommend the best parts possible so you dont ever have to do this job again. 3). Have a extendable magnetic tool or remote grabber on hand to fish dropped tools and nuts/bolts out of the abyss. Here is the abyss and the tools. Be very afraid of the abyss. I was this time, and I didn't drop anything down there. The first time I did this project, I dropped a 10mm wrench into the black hole and it is still there. I sold that car, so I bet the owner is chasing his tail trying to find out why his car makes a metallic clank sound every time he hits a bump. The second time I did this job (on the car I currently own) I dropped a screwdriver down the abyss and was able to fish it out with the claw grabber tool. 4). You don't have to completely remove the 13mm nut that fits on the fixed stud at the bottom of the regulator. Just loosen it enough so you can pull and wiggle the regulator out of the sheetmetal boxed section where it attaches. That same lower nut is accessed by pulling the rubber plug that the wiring harness runs through and using a ratchet wrench with a long extension. 5). Putting the top in service mode for the entire job gives you good access to the 13mm bolt that is near the hydraulic ram arm. 6). After removing the bolts on the big plastic bracket section, use a crowbar and place a small section of 2x4 between the bracket and the outer metal support. This is the only way to create enough space to get the regulator in and out. BTW, if that block of wood slips out when your arm is down in the gap you will have caught yourself in a metal trap, so you can either chew off your own arm, or make sure you have your cell phone in your pocket so you can call for help (fortunately this has never happened to me). 7). Removing the regulator wiring harness plug is a pain. It's located at the bottom of the regulator, and the wiring harness length doesn't allow you to pull it completely up enough to get to it easily, so you have to reach down into the narrow body gap to access it. Ideally you would have a helper pull the regulator up as far as possible while you pinch the gray harness plug release tabs while gently but firmly pressing down on the edge of the harness plug with a flat blade screwdriver. This was the worst part of the job for me, but it would have been easy with a helper. 8). With the top in service mode (fancy name for saying just put the top halfway down), it is the perfect time to check your hydraulic fluid reservoir and add some Pentosin CHF 11S (or OEM fluid) with a plastic syringe and clear rubber tubing. Snap off the ball and socket connectors to the cables that secure the lower corner section of the top to the body, swing the bottom of the top up, and use a plastic pry tool to take out the round push clips that keep the big black tray in place and remove. The fill screw is the 6mm allen facing the rear of the car. I had to use a shorter SAE equivalent wrench from my collection so it could fit into the screw and not interfere with that black plastic cable thingy right across from the screw. Putting the screw back on (dont forget the copper washer) is a bit fiddly so go slow and hold it on with one finger while trying to spin it with your other finger to get it started to the point where you can get the allen wrench in there to finish tightening it. You can check the fill level on the reservoir with a flashlight. 9). Before removing the rear window glass from the regulator, take a black sharpie pen and mark the outline of the metal clips on the glass. This makes the glass re-installation and alignment super easy. 10) Tools needed, Flashlight (a headlight is even better),13mm wrench and socket, long extension, 13mm offset wrench, 10mm wrench (ratcheting is best), Torx T40, T20 wrenches, 6 mm or SAE equivalent Allen wrench, phillips and flat screwdrivers, plastic pry tool, lots of patience. Once I installed the window and put everything back together, I cycled the top up and down a few times, and everything worked perfectly. Overall, just go super slow and be methodical. This is not a job to be rushed! BTW - don't do this - I failed to route the seatbelt over the metal bar properly, so now I have to pull the inside panel off again and fix that.

Thank you so much for documenting this process. I'm planning to tackle my front passenger side regulator soon, the rear regulators seems a level up in difficulty.

The fronts aren't too bad. The back it's a PIA. I did mine a while back wish I would've took a video I always forget

I have done this job half a dozen times. I also learned some lessons. Lesson 1: Don't buy those $30 repair kits. The 8 hours to repeat the job is worth way more than $30. After suffering through the job a couple times, I am thinking to myself... which German engineer thought of these wonderful solution that included a) inaccessible connector, b) too skinny a space to fit the regulator, c) the bottom bolt needing both an allen socket and a 13mm socket through a 1 inch hole while your head is upside down on the back seat. Everytime I hear the phrase German Engineering, this is one of many engineering examples that come right up.

I agree with you - I think the Engineers built the rest of the car around the rear window regulator. Thank goodness for that special block of wood that makes the job possible.