fullymatted.
Back to search
Rennlist

Progress on digital temp gauge

Add to repair workspace
Open repair workspace
Original source
346 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW

Discussion summary

YOUR RESEARCHProgress on digital temp gauge

Reported or suspected cause

correct wire

Reported cause

No successful repair reported for this finding.

1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context

Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.

Discussions that report identifying a cause
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Reported cause · Original poster

anyway, I bit the bullet and went ahead, fortunately it was the correct wire.

Progress on digital temp gauge
Frequently discussed work

Check continuity of the yellow wire

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Suggestion · Original poster

If you have a volt/ohm meter, disconnect the yellow wire at both connectors and check continuity of the yellow wire.

Progress on digital temp gauge
Read full discussion summary

Leading evidence: 'correct wire' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'correct wire' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check continuity of the yellow wire' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.

Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.

Read captured replies

1 matching discussions · 346 captured posts examined · 0 partial discussions

Compare 4 other evidence results

Install arduino, voltage regulator

Performed · outcome unconfirmed

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context

Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.

Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster

Basic description is like this: I designed a pcb and installed an arduino, voltage regulator.

Progress on digital temp gauge

Install gauge in the car over the weekend

Performed · outcome unconfirmed

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context

Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.

Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster

I installed the gauge in the car over the weekend.

Progress on digital temp gauge

Install oil temp gauge in my 2004 996

Performed · outcome unconfirmed

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context

Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.

Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Performed · outcome unconfirmed

I received and installed your oil temp gauge in my 2004 996.2 C4S just in time for track day today (Sonoma, 20-May)!

Progress on digital temp gauge

Install oil temperature gauge in my horseshoe

Performed · outcome unconfirmed

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context

Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.

Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Performed · outcome unconfirmed

Just to get away from arcane technical issues and back to practical issues, I'm good with turning wrenches, but not so much with electrical connectors, and I installed the oil temperature gauge in my horseshoe with excellent results.

Progress on digital temp gauge
Frequently discussed actions (10)

These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.

Check continuity of the yellow wire

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Suggestion · Original poster

If you have a volt/ohm meter, disconnect the yellow wire at both connectors and check continuity of the yellow wire.

Progress on digital temp gauge

Check first

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Suggestion

Last night I had my gauge go out - what should I check first?

Progress on digital temp gauge

Check fuse and 12v at the phone connector

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Suggestion · Original poster

Certainly the easiest is to check the fuse and 12v at the phone connector.

Progress on digital temp gauge

Check just

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Suggestion · Original poster

All works as expected, and as a sanity check I connected my VDO gauge (Ahsai�s design in the link above) as a sanity check just to make sure there wasn�t any issue with the accuracy of my code compared to the one written for the VDO.

Progress on digital temp gauge

Check orientation of the wire bundle

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Suggestion

Try checking the orientation of the wire bundle.

Progress on digital temp gauge

Check pm

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Suggestion

please check your PM.

Progress on digital temp gauge

Check with

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Suggestion · Original poster

Check with

Progress on digital temp gauge

Clean appearance

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Suggestion · Original poster

Somehow connect it to my controller...that IS interesting, and would have a very clean appearance.

Progress on digital temp gauge

Clean crimp job is fine lol

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Suggestion

A 911 is just a superBeetle, any reasonably clean crimp job is fine lol.

Progress on digital temp gauge

Clean rotors surface rust and watched oil temp come

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Suggestion

Went out and rode brakes a little to clean rotors surface rust and watched OIL TEMP come to life landing on 188-191 depending on my pushing the engine RPMs.

Progress on digital temp gauge
Reported and suspected causes (2)

These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.

correct wire

No successful repair reported for this finding.

1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Reported cause · Original poster

anyway, I bit the bullet and went ahead, fortunately it was the correct wire.

Progress on digital temp gauge

of the tap

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Identified cause
1
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Discussions that suspect a cause
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Suspected cause

I've got an aftermarket subwoofer box which sits directly over the DME and subjects that area to increased vibration, which is why I'm suspect of the tap, but will have to wait for the weekend to get back there and eyes on.

Progress on digital temp gauge
Coverage and how to read this overview

Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.

346 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.

  • Rennlist: 1 discussions

0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.

6 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.

Outcome without a verified action link

It worked fine, but I didn’t like the fact that I had to give up the cubby space to mount it and the scale on the gauge isn’t linear, so it’s difficlut to determine the actual temp.

No unique explicit quoted action; no causal link assigned

Generation: 20261027T025149Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources

POST 1 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source posts: 18174840, 18174840

@GC996 I�m working on a solution very close to what you�ve described. It�s in the �bench test� phase now, but I plan to install it in my car in the next few days. Basic description is like this: I designed a pcb and installed an arduino, voltage regulator. The arduino contains an imbedded code (written by me) that reads the temp signal from the DME and outputs a reading to an OLED display. There�s three wires on the input side (+12v, ground, and signal). Only one wire needs to be spliced into the DME oil temp signal. This is a long wire from behind the seats up to a convenient place where +12v and a ground are available. I plan to use the outdated phone connector behind the center stack and locate the pcb in that area. The location of the pcb is considered a permanent location that�s out of sight. There�s four wires that run from the pcb to the display. You can see from the pics below, I plan to mount it in the batwing of the stack initially, but may not be the final location. In reality, the display could be placed anywhere based on driver preference. A connector can be incorporated so it�s removable, but all wiring will remain in place. Everyone likes to see pics: Heres the basic set-up: Pcb with arduino and voltage regulator to the left, OLED display on the right I created two versions of the same code. This one just shows the temp This one adds some text above. Not sure which version I like better. A connector on the back of the display makes it removable, bit all wiring remains in place

POST 2 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@GC996 I think the gauge will be plug and play after initial installation because the pcb and all wiring will remain in place, as well as the code embedded in the arduino. It will automatically start when key is on. Just plug in the display and go! at cold engine start-up only the degree symbol and letter F will be displayed. This is to let you know the gauge is working, and waiting for temp. When oil temp reached 100 deg, the temp will also be displayed. If engine is started hot, all info will be immediately shown. Display at cold start Display on warm engine

POST 3Original post

Nice, would be interested to replicate in my car, other than getting the motivation to get back to the DME... The phone connector is a great place to add some electronics, was already considering putting an arduino or rpi in there.

POST 4Original post

Do you have a 996.1? The early model AC units have the hidden display menu which can show various metrics, all the guides I've seen speculate that one of them is oil temp but its not clear. Would be amazing to confirm if any of those codes match what your system displays.

POST 5 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Hi dsbl, yup, getting into the DME is a pain, and for me a high stress time because there are so many wires coming into one large connector. It reminded me of defusing a bomb in the movies. anyway, I bit the bullet and went ahead, fortunately it was the correct wire. The good part is it’s a one-time modification, so it’s done! Also, I do have a 996.1, but never heard about any tricks with the AC units. It would be an interesting exercise...

POST 6Original post

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ml#post7057458

POST 7Original post

Quotes source posts: 18177186, 7057458

This does not display oil temperature.

POST 8Original post

Nice project! I’d be interested if you sold a kit. How is the Arduino availability these days? If I hadn’t stocked up on Raspberry Pis, I’d be very sad!

POST 9Original post

This is brilliant. Just curious, are there any tutorials/resources you found particularly useful when learning how to read the DME signal and program the Arduino?

POST 10 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Over the last few years I’ve made with three different gauges, starting with a VDO round gauge first created by another forum user. It worked fine, but I didn’t like the fact that I had to give up the cubby space to mount it and the scale on the gauge isn’t linear, so it’s difficlut to determine the actual temp. That inspired me to create a digital version using a segmented LED display. It also worked, but was impossible to read when bright sunlight came in the windows. this latest one uses an OLED display that is readable in the sun and at night. All are programmed in C++, the code is specific to each version, based on the requirements of the display. The web has lots of info on programming arduino, but specifically for the 996 by far the most relevant are the threads referenced below. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...mp-sensor.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...revisited.html

POST 11 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I installed the gauge in the car over the weekend. All works as expected, and as a sanity check I connected my VDO gauge (Ahsai�s design in the link above) as a sanity check just to make sure there wasn�t any issue with the accuracy of my code compared to the one written for the VDO. Not a statistically valid study, but visually showed good correlation at 160, 180, and 200 degrees I�m not crazy about the location in the bat wing, so I�m thinking about a better location. There is just enough room to the right of the airbag idiot light to mount it, then I can get my cubby back. If I can figure out how to mount it...??

POST 12Original post

Coop nice work! I love that you have both gauges. Who doesn't love gauges! Somewhere in Rennlist in one of the temp gauge threads is an example of what the PRF did with his digital readout. It was useable and fit nicely to the top right of the steering column along the dash. Somewhere I ran across bankspower.com and the iDash digital monitor which is pretty slick. However, it only works for 2007 cars going forward. Not the 996. It may give you a few thoughts. Appreciate the innovation! Keep pushing.

POST 13Original post

As a side note, you and Robo have good timing. Even after all of the new inventions that have been released to solve 996 problems, we are still missing 2 things. (1) a way to measure oil temps real time, and (2) a robust oil cooling kit for the 996. Yeah, we can all put on a 3rd radiator, but what we really need for the track is an oil cooling kit. As you probably already know, LN has been working on a solution. The problem has been that there is no room in the 996 engine bay for one. LN has been working on configurations and location for the 996. Last year they released one for the boxster/Cayman. It's only a matter of time and they will have a viable solution for the 996 Watch how quickly everyone will want to measure oil temps in real time...

POST 14 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Update: I found a space to mount the display up in the gauge pod. This makes it much easier to read than down on the console, basically as easy as looking at anything on the instrument pod. The position doesn�t block the view of any warning lights. i also changed the code slightly to display the text �Oil temp� for 5 seconds on engine start, whether cold or hot start. If cold, the text will remain until the oil temp reaches 100 deg F. If hot, after the 5 seconds the actual temp will display. The mounting needs work, the pics show just hand-cut flat plastic pieces for the front and back, and is attached to the IP with double stick tape. Functions fine, but needs work for a better fit and visual appeal. The shape needs to fit the space better and hide the wires on the right side. This is turning out to be the final challenge, the shape is difficult to get right as the only straight line/flat surface is on the left edge lines, and tapers front to back. since I don�t have a 3D printer and my CAD skills need serious improvement. sorry for the out of focus pics At start-up and cold At temp

POST 15Original post

Coop, nice job! Perfect location. Put me on the list. I want one!

POST 16Original post

Awesome! We shall call it the Ultimate Oil Temperature Solution. UOTS

POST 17Original post

Quotes source post: 18203968

Nope, I got the dibs on 4 letter Ultimate 996 upgrades..lol Besides I already did one of these years ago that even spells P_O_R_S_C_H_E on startup, but the display is bigger. I think I like his version better and hope he is successful with them. I like all the new innovation going on with 996 cars. . https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...gital+oil+temp You Tube

POST 18Original post

Looks like a good spot for it. I've got a 3d printer and some basic fusion 360 experience, with a part that small it shouldn't take too long to print so the design iterations are pretty quick, want some help with that? Some kind of warning indicator for the temp exceeding a threshold would be nice, eg blinking text above 250F, not sure where exactly the line should be drawn for high temperature.

POST 19 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@dsbl thanks for the offer. I have a good start on a fusion 360 model, still needs some tweaks. I�ll be out of town for a few weeks, so no progress until I get back. This is turning into a fun project, and learning CAD along the way! Sure would be easier if the geometry was simpler.

POST 20Original post

Looks good, you can export that as a stl file and get a quote from a service like craftcloud if you can't find someone to print locally. You'll want to use a material like PETG or one of the resins which can stand up to the heat/UV, if you get it printed in PLA it'll likely start deforming pretty quickly.

POST 21Original post

I love the look. Subbed for updates. Put me on your customer wannabe list please.

POST 22Original post

My ADHD was too much to overcome when using Fusion. I�m down for one when it comes available.

POST 23Original post

l though the main issue was 2 fold: The stock gages do not indicate actual temp, and even if you do get the data from the car, it doesn't measure temps from where you would optimally want it measured.

POST 24Original post

That's a great location. If these go into production, I'll buy one.

POST 25Original post

Quotes source post: 18202591

That looks great! If you end up selling them, put me on you list!

POST 26Original post

Very interesting discussion and I like that location for the digital gauge . As already mentioned is getting the " signal " from the ECM accurate for true oil temps ?

POST 27Original post

Quotes source post: 18209556

Fireman, you are correct. Unfortunately, the 996 doesn't have a gauge that measures oil temp. Just water temp. Sure, optimally you would want a gauge that sources the data from the oil filter spinner to get the most accurate read of oil temp. In the case of what Coop has built, he is using dme data. While it may not be as accurate as the actual oil source, it will at least give us an indication of oil temp that we can monitor on the track and even on the street if someone wants too. Robo has a thread of which he is also building out a solution that may be direct oil sourced that may be of interest to many. Either way, we really need a solution and nothing exists for purchase just yet.

POST 28Original post

Oil temperatures are different in different parts of the running engine, can be a lot of difference depending on the oil cooler efficiency. The temperature of the oil going into the Sump will be the hottest, because it just came from doing the work of lubricating and extracting heat from the rods,mains, valves, valve springs ,cams, ect. The factory VDO Sensor is a good location because it hangs in the Sump and gets the oil as it is going into the Sump. If the Sensor is located on the head as many will install an aftermarket oil Temp Sensor here, it will be a lower temp by how ever much the oil has cooled by the Sump ( if it has fins like the UIDS), or the oil filter as it has cooled some in the Sump, or the oil cooler/heat exchanger. All oil Temps are important, and are relative to each other, but IMO the highest Temp is the one I want to see.if I can only see ONE.. When I did mine years ago, I just used off the shelf parts, the display, radio blanking plate, and Arduino, were just commonly available inexpensive parts and not Custom,made or high end. In fact there were no high end available displays that fit the bill... The hard part for me was the writing of the C++ code to programming the Arduino. I had never written any actual "Processor Program Code " before and the learning curve was very steep. I felt like I had entered the "Matrix" and wasn't going to get out...lol But I managed to write a very sophisticated and complex code that astonished even some seasoned programmers. But I don't think I can do it again, I have forgotten most all the "rules" I learned , and my hats off to the ones who do this on a regular basis..lol..I want no part of it again...lol I really like the location and mounting position of this Temp Display, Nice job !!

POST 31 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Not a lot of progress lately, but The gauge in my car has been working well. The display visibility is good in daytime, sunlight, and at night, but I’ve discovered when wearing polarized sunglasses the display becomes invisible. This is because polarized glasses have a filter that only lets vertical light rays to pass through, and blocks horizontal rays that cause glare. Apparently the light coming from OLED displays is oriented horizontally. Who knew?? Anyway, it’s not a problem when wearing regular sunglasses. Is this a deal breaker?

POST 32Original post

Maybe you could offer a �polarized� version for those of us who may wear an occasional polarized pair of sunglasses? For a nominal fee of course�🤔 hmmm, no fooling!

POST 33Original post

Hmm... Don't know if I have polarized sun glasses or not. Never thought about it. I assume non polarized sun glasses are available? Any sun glass experts out there?

POST 34 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Another interesting phenomenon, if I tilt my head at an angle it becomes visible again. Hold it upright and it disappears. Here’s a good video on the topic. You Tube

POST 35Original post

Quotes source post: 18284731

It's a well known phenomenon. In fact to test if your glasses are polarized, you can rotate the glass 45 degrees and observe any change when looking at a screen. The video guy does a better job explaining than I can. I like to wear polarized lenses when driving, always really, they reduce glare a lot. My last two pairs of prescription sunglasses are Oakley prism polarized, the Oakley frame quality is a step up from all the luxotica clone designer brands cluttering the walls at LensCrafters. I think the lenses are as well. Anyway, older lcd displays in cars are invisible when wearing them, but I don't notice any problems with screens in my pccm+, or the climate control display in my 996.1, so perhaps a different screen could be found. Short answer tho, not a deal breaker. Thanks for asking!!

POST 36Original post

This phenomenon occurs on all LCD panels except for the TFT versions. There is a polarizer in front of and behind the LCD. To light up for darken the pixels an electric field is applied that orients microscopic "I" shaped bars in the LCD fluid. When the stuff in the LCD fluid aligns with the polarized light = segment is lit up. OLEDs are a little different, the principle is similar.

POST 37Original post

Coop, I am still very interested. Most important thing to me is to be able to view the oil temp. I'll figure out what to do with sun glasses. What are thinking for production and costs?

POST 38Original post

Quotes source post: 18284845

Ditto. I already have the issue with other gauges and screens anyway.

POST 40Original post

Very interested, I like it! Well done. Pricing? Godspeed! Dave

POST 41Original post

Same I can work around the polarity thing... I have the same issue with some components at work.

POST 43Original post

I had a similar issue with my climate control on a BMW. I purchased a sheet of polarizing filter and cut a small piece for in front of the climate control. after that I had no issues with or without my sunglasses. It’s an easy fix.

POST 44Original post

even better if you could match the amber color of the dash lights ..

POST 45 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@Justin76 I agree on the color...have to think about that a bit. meanwhile...slow but steady progress. I am now able to print the three plastic bits needed, cases for the gauges and arduino, and the connector that mates with the phone connector, including the pins that fit in the sockets and a wire pigtail. I�m proud of that, since I couldn�t find an off the shelf mating part. It works great in my car. I�m trying to make this as �plug and play� as possible, and it looks like everything will have connectors except the wire going back to the DME. Others may not wanting the oil temp may have another need to tap into that unused phone connector. The pigtail will make this super easy.

POST 47Original post

Great progress! Let me know if you need beta testers. I want oil temp in my dash.

POST 50Original post

Coming along nicely! I’m in too. I already have the Becker pigtail that I’m using for USB power to my Rollbar mounted GoPro & my external GPS. Also Yaz996 sells the pigtail at http://www.rennclassic.com .

POST 51Original post

What timing. I just got my 996 last week and one of the first things I noticed was I couldn't find the oil temp gauge. Well, now I know why; they didn't include on on the 996 . Please add me to your list when you're ready to start producing these for others. And I second the suggestion for an amber readout LED. (I could maybe add an amber filter over it?)

POST 52Original post

Coop, how is the oil temp gauge coming along?

POST 53 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I’m making a small production batch now (10 units), the housings and connectors are finished as are the wiring harnesses. Now waiting for the last couple of electronic components. They should be here late this week, then a few days for programming and final Assy, and ready for shipment. I also still need to write some instructions.

POST 55Original post

I don't need any instructions so you can send mine "early"...

POST 56Original post

Please add my name to the list of potential buyers .

POST 57Original post

If you decide to offer this for the 996TT/GT2/GT3 they use a PTC oil temp sensor with a totally different calibration curve. I have the equations for this sensor, which have been validated against PIWIS.

POST 58Original post

I'd buy one as soon as they're available. Are there any references for tapping the DME wire so that I can try and knock that out ahead of time? Also wondering if there's any way to add a visual indicator for high temp warning (either user configured or set to a static value), eg inverting or flashing the screen.

POST 60Original post

Interested in one. Cost? Thanks for getting this done!!! Godspeed!

POST 61Original post

Also in for one! I've got a temp sensor port on the UIDS that's begging to be utilized!

POST 62Original post

Put me on the interested parties list please. -Tom

POST 64Original post

lmao everybody thirsty for oil temps, myself included. Its frustrating that the expensive obd2 tools can pull that value out but a generic scanner can't, would be much simpler to put the display in and tie it to the obd2 port right there

POST 65 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@plpete84 I’m pretty sure the port on the UIDS is there to fit a conventional aftermarket temp gauge like the VDO unit that includes a sensor. My system taps into the OEM porsche temp sensor in the engine at the DME, and doesn’t use another sensor. I doubt the two will be compatible. Check with @Porschetech3 to be sure, he completely understands how mine (and his own) works.

POST 66 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@dsbl I’m skeptical that the high end systems can pull oil temps out of the obd2 port. They may show an oil temp gauge on their dashboard, but I doubt it actually pulls data from a 996. I may be wrong, and I’d like someone to explain to me how they do it. Maybe you know someone who has one? Maybe it’s possible on other vehicles, but I’ve never seen it on a 996. I’d love to learn how as it would certainly simplify installation.

POST 67Original post

The oil temp sensor port on the UIDS is a 10mm thread to fit the AIM Oil Temp Sensors... When using the Factory oil temp sensor the port will not be needed.. High end "scanners" use the Porsche specific protocol ( like a private number, and they have to pay for the privilege ) to query for oil temp info... Generic OBDII scanners use the Gov mandated obdii protocol ( like a non-private number ,and its free to use ) to query for oil temp info but the info is not available on obdII for 996 but it is for 997..

POST 68Original post

Yea I'm almost positive piwis or durametric can get the value. I used a PID scanner with my bluetooth obd2 reader just to check if it was hiding in some non standard value, but no luck.

POST 69Original post

Quotes source post: 18363065

Yes, PIWIS and Durametric can display oil temp on 996 through the Porsche Specific Protocol.. Oil temp PID is not a Government mandated obd2 PID , so whether or not it is included in the obd2 data stream is at the discretion of the factory programmer. Unfortunately the factory programmer didn't include it in the 996 obd2 data stream, but DID include it in the 997 obd2 data stream...

POST 70Original post

Quotes source post: 18359022

@Coopduc I'm happy to review and suggest edits to the documentation, I work in software engineering and read at the 7th grade level, at least. Heh. Just send me a pm if I can help I will.

POST 71 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Ok, I finally finished the first 10 units and ready to ship. I’ll be sending PMs to all who have expressed an interest. The delivered product will include the gauge ( for the dash), controller ( to be hidden behind the batwing), all wiring and connectors, and installation instructions (6 pages!) $80 free shipping. Here are some pics Gauge Controller Instructions

POST 73Original post

great work! please put me on the list for one.

POST 74Original post

Coopduc - Oh baby! Please shoot me a pm when you get the second batch ready, or you have any of first production unspoken for. This will be a fun project. Then I’ll be able to get a proper read on when I can let ‘er rip!

POST 75Original post

Coop, Just got back from a dinner meeting. I'll settle up tomorrow morning thru your payment options. Thanks for making the gauge. We needed it!

POST 76Original post

Please clarify: does this versions display the words " oil temp " just at cold start ? Then goes away as oil temp comes up ? Seems you were at a point that you could do either and was trying to decide which way to go . If it was optional I would prefer it say oil temp all the time . I received your PM and will respond but need this one clarification . Thank you

POST 77 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

On cold start the words “oil temp” will display until the oil reaches 100 deg F, then it will change to read the actual temp. This could take a few minutes on a cold morning. On a hot start the words “oil temp” will display for 5 seconds only, then display actual temp. Why not display actual temps all the way down to ambient? The sensor in the engine outputs a voltage in the range of 0-5v, (not a temperature) that is inversely related to temperature. This means a higher voltage indicates a lower temperature, and vice versa. To get the best correlation of volts to temp in the working range of the engine (100-300 deg) it is a 4th order equation, not a linear relationship. The unfortunate downside of this is that at high voltages (cold engine) the correlation is wildly inaccurate. So, it’s better to truncate that part of the curve and either display nothing or some simple text. I opted for simple text. At one point in the development I had the display stay blank until 100 deg, but the more thought about it I decided to have it display text to let you know the system was working, and just waiting for accurate data. when you think about it, it’s not too different than an analog gauge (for instance the coolant temp) that doesn’t move the needle until a temperature threshold is reached. Hopefully this makes sense!

POST 78Original post

Oh man i love a good 4th order equation. (me=math geek) If i didnt just buy zbombs aim dash i would be all over one of these for the gt3ish. Real nice product.

POST 79Original post

This is looking fantastic and a huge thank you for putting in the work! It all looks good and just wanted to clarify that the text color will remain as white, similar to your previous photos in the car?

POST 82Original post

PM sent. If you have one available, will buy right away.

POST 83Original post

Quotes source post: 18397074

The Mezger oil temp sensor uses a different calibration curve. It uses a PTC sensor, not an NTC sensor. When he gets around to making these for Mezger engine cars I can send him the correct calibration curves. It's a great product and fixes my biggest gripe with the 996 instruments. I like the bezel integration too.

POST 84 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Ok guys, the response to the gauges has been tremendous! By noon today my entire inventory has been sold. Please refrain from sent me any more money until I can build up an inventory again. I haven’t ordered the next group of components yet, and getting stuff from China has been quite slow lately. Heartfelt thanks to all who ordered. To all who have ordered: parts will go out today and I’ll sent you a message with the tracking number.

POST 85Original post

Quotes source post: 18397043

Hey Coop, it you want to tighten up the accuracy of the gauge in the cold region for future versions, use the Steinhart-Hart Equation with the B Curve Coefficient for NTC's, it will give you dead nuts accuracy all the way down into the low temps with the factory NTC.. Since high temp accuracy is what is needed, this isn't a big deal but just a thought for future versions. I love the display and location and neatness/quality and will certainly support your effort for the community and even replace my existing one ( or use it on my other car).. Just send me an invoice when you have another batch ready...

POST 86Original post

Hello Coop, how do we get on the new list for one?

POST 88Original post

Hey it looks like you sold out before I could respond with payment lol please take my money for the next batch thanks mike

POST 89Original post

Received and installed, didn't have time for a major test but I was getting ~195-200 F driving around town with a coolant temp at ~95 c according to the AC. Driving for a few minutes in second gear at 5k rpm got temps up to 215 F while the coolant temps did not budge, then came back once returning to normal driving. The placement of the display is blocking the roll-over protection warning light and convertible top warning light, I don't have a cab so its not an issue, but something to be aware of. Some other minor things I encountered during the install: The DME pin diagrams and descriptions for the .1/.2 are switched, the visual diagrams are enough to get the job done but the wording is just backward. My MY2000 used the DME written as the 996.2 description. For the multi plug DME, there are 5 plugs, you are removing the middle one, but for the release lever to fully move you need to take out the adjacent connector. They remove/install really nicely. Finding and tapping pin 5 on the 996.1 connector was much than I expected (other than physically fitting in the back to do the work). Once you remove the connector you can look at the face, each row of connections has the start/end number marked. Pin 5 is on the outside row, once you're oriented you can visually count out to pin 5 from the back and find the green/red wire, the wire was right on the outside of the bundle for me so no major surgery. Removing the dash was sketchier than I thought, and after reinstall initially both the mileage and clock screens were not lit, after maybe a minute my odometer returned but the clock backlight is still not working for me. I tried to just remove it enough to thread the wire through, but snapping it back in place was a bit of effort and it seems maybe I've got something loose. The fitment of the 3d printed dash part could be a bit better, you don't really notice it once its in but the geometry is a bit off. I don't actually want to stick it down with the adhesive yet, so I have it just dangling there, good enough. Here's two videos which will be helpful to review before attempting an install. DME: You Tube Cluster: You Tube

POST 90 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@dsbl thanks for the feedback! Your comments about the 996.1 DME are curious to me, as I have a .1 (1999) and definitely has the configuration for pin 73. Maybe there was a model changeover or mid cycle change that switched the DME?? Either way I need to investigate and clarify for the future. And, yes, the worst part of the installation is getting in the back seat, and I’m not a very big guy! I typically don’t see temps above 220, but one time when really pushing it a hot summer day in the mountains I briefly touched 230.

POST 91Original post

Well, I didn't google it before posting, looks like the single large connector is for the 5.2 DME, which I think was changed in 2000 (my model year).

POST 92 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Looking at the various wiring diagrams there are 3 different DMEs, 5.2, 7.2, and 7.8. It looks like only the 1999 C2 with cable throttle uses the 5.2 DME with the single large connector, pin 73. Anything with e-throttle (including 1999 C4) uses the 7.x, meaning connector lll pin 5. Again, I appreciate your input, I’ll make clarifications.

POST 93Original post

Mine is in! It's very nice to have oil temperature!! It took me a few hours but I'm fussy about cable routing and lifted the console. Comments: Disconnect the NEGATIVE TERMINAL of the battery! The car is negative ground. I pulled the duct that runs under the dash on the driver's side; helps a lot in routing the cable down to the console and is easy to pop out/in. The gauge covers the convertible top and rollover system warning lights. Cab owners be aware. The gauge partially covers the 'you left your frunk open' warning light. I pulled connectors 1 & 2 out of the DME to gain access to connector #3. I think this is what is supposed to be done. This is a tremendous plus for the 996 community. Thanks very much @Coopduc for seeing this through!

POST 94Original post

Good stuff! Thanks for posting the initial thoughts on the installs. Could someone share target numbers for oil temp? What is the correct operating temperature and what is the number that tells you things are getting too hot and you should back off?

POST 95Original post

Quotes source post: 18403280

A bit of googling got me a bunch of links saying that engine oil temperatures should be between 230 and 260 F. 275F is when the oil starts to break down. I was seeing 210F yesterday on a 60 degree fall day, not really pushing the car hard but running it up through the gears a bit. I wanted the gauge primarily to monitor warmup. With the S54 in my Z4MC and its 10W60 motor oil, it is super important to wait for the oil to get up to 185 or so before getting revvy. That car has an oil temperature gauge but not a water temperature gauge; it does however have a series of yellow lights on the tach that illuminate when the car is cold and go out as it warms up. Those lights are extinguished well before the oil temperature is high enough for my tastes, so I assume they're using water temperature. Short version: there appears to be a substantial difference between oil warmup and water warmup times. I didn't pay close attention yesterday in the targa, but my loose impression was that the water and oil temperatures came up at close to the same speeds. I'll take some pics today as the car warms up to see how they compare.

POST 96Original post

Quotes source post: 18403280

Here's a website with generic answers for gas and diesel engines. Personally I don't like to see oil temps much higher than 250 and preferably 240 . https://www.syntheticoil.me/what-is-...l-temperature/

POST 97Original post

Cool - 250 was the number that I had in mind when doing some reading. I mostly interested in knowing when the oil is at operating temp and in hot swampy summer weather when pushing it hard, but that's a few months away now. The lights on the older BMW tachs was one of my favorite features on those cars!

POST 98Original post

I would encourage guys that now have this info to think of the oil temp in relation more to how that temp affects the stability of oil pressure vs. the importance of max oil temp. On the road, it is more likely that you can keep the oil temp in a sweeter spot for oil pressure stability than on the track - go back and read some of @golock911 ’s great analysis on how oil temp affected pressure to get bearings here. The oil itself is going to be very tolerant of temperatures likely exceeding what we see in spirited use on the road, I don’t know but would guess driving hard on the road you’re going to see oil temps in the 220-230, for good oil, this is well within its capabilities. ETA - I LOVE this widget ! Something about the users of these cars going out and making cool **** people want, at a great value hits me right in the feels.

POST 99 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I think for most of us primarily driving road cars the greater concern is getting the oil up into the 210 F range so moisture/ condensation is driven out of the oil. Repeated short trips when the engine doesn’t get up to full operating temps have potential to do more engine damage than hammering it on track days.

POST 100Original post

Quotes source post: 18403429

True, good point.

POST 101Original post

Coolant is coming to temp faster than oil, I think the design is actually to have the coolant help bring the oil to temp through the oil/coolant heat exchanger. Once my coolant gets to its regular operating temp (~200 F, needle straight up) it probably takes another minute or two for the oil to catch up the last 30 degrees, then they run about the same around town in regular driving. Tracking engine warmup is nicer than I was expecting, I generally have a shorter commute (10-15 minutes) and with it getting colder out I'll be looking to maybe add a few minutes and ensure I hit full operating temp more frequently. I'd be curious if anyone is installing one of these and has a low temp thermostat, I would assume a ltt would have a negative impact on engine warmup time as the oil is exposed to more coolant at a lower temperature earlier. My OEM thermostat is only partially open at normal driving temps while I think the ltt is probably fully open, it would be interesting to try and quantify how helpful the full coolant flow is at absorbing sudden oil temp spikes.

POST 102Original post

So, after staring at my instrument cluster and at wdb's, what do we know about the external air temperature sensor? I think every 996 came with the OBC even if you didn't have the option, I had mine turned on and get the outside temperature reading, being able to display oil temp directly in the main display would be amazing. I think its a 5v sensor wired to the instrument cluster, and it potentially sends data to the AC as part of the auto climate setting, running both of these to coop's controller and having that input to the cluster seems interesting.

POST 103 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Dsbl, you mean in place of the ambient temp display currently in the tach. Somehow connect it to my controller...that IS interesting, and would have a very clean appearance. If I only had a spare instrument cluster to experiment with...

POST 104Original post

I have a spare cluster that I have messed with to do this. However, there are some limitations. The LCD itself inside the cluster will have to be replaced, or driven from an external LCD driver. By default, there are two direct pins on the back of the cluster connected to the outdoor temp sensor. There is a base voltage, and the resistance of the sensor changes with temperature, so that the displayed outdoor temperature correlates to resistance across the two pins. l initially tried to just use a variable resistor across these two, but the response was slow and inconsistent. My electrical circuit expertise is not great. I was powering the cluster with 12V, and I used a parallel voltage divider to supply a variable 0-5V to the temperature input pins. However, the outdoor temperature reading has high/low limits. I don't have my notes in front of me right now, but it won't display above about 130F. At 0V it's at 130F and won't go higher. [EDIT: see post below, limit is 140F] Let me dig up my notes if I can find them, and I'll post the voltage/temperature correlations that I mapped out. While a microcontroller could drive those temperature probe pins, the only way to get the appropriate temperature range would be to display F, but 'pretend' that it's in C. So that 130F actually means 130C which is 266F, and about the right range. But that's a cludge mess, and I didn't like that.

POST 105Original post

Hmm, yea, they clearly never intended in the design for outside temp to be anywhere near 200F so I wasn't sure what kind of limits like that would be in place. I'm also not sure if the car is smart enough to throw a p0073, but that would be a potential issue as well. Honestly, displaying C as F doesn't seem like the end of the world to me, there's a guy on youtube who's neck deep in this cluster and is driving the coolant gauge with the oil temp, but it looks like a lot of work. Other than those two approaches I can't think of anything cleaner than what coopduc has come up with for placement, which is very good at least.

POST 106Original post

Here's the data for the applied voltage to the 2 pins for the external temperature sensor, versus the temperature which is displayed in the cluster. It stops displaying temp above 140F (below 0.23V). I didn't test much lower than 28F (above 1.7V) since I was interested in oil temperatures. Note that this is for the newer 996.2 cluster. I don't remember exactly which pins they are, I'd have to pull the wiring diagrams back out. EDIT: I don't know if, when in the car, it would throw a code or not. I don't think so, because if I remember the wiring diagrams correctly, the external temp sensor just runs to the cluster. I don't think it goes anywhere else, but my memory could be wrong about that. EDIT: I've seen the videos mentioned where the coolant temperature is replaced by oil temp. It is done the same way, by driving a voltage across the sensor pins. So that is a viable method. Originally I wanted to keep the coolant sensor, so that wasn't an option for me either. Unfortunately, the other gauges for fuel and oil pressure are not driven in such a simple way; they are through the bus, and can't be hijacked so easily. The voltage gauge is driven from the voltage that supplies the cluster, so while it can be externally controlled, it obviously has to stay between 10-14V in order to have the cluster keep working.

POST 107Original post

Quotes source post: 18403453

I have had a digital oil temp gauge on Sally for years and with "no coolant thermostat " it still reaches operating temp in 10min due to the heat exchanger ( oil/coolant ) and oil and coolant temps rise evenly together and stay pretty even untill the engine is ran hard..then oil temps exceed the coolant temps.. To burn off the water/moisture you need about 20-30 min run time after oil operating temps is reached.. ( BTW : before anyone tries to just remove the thermostat, you have to do another step to also to the "short coolant passage path" to be sucessfull, and in low ambient temps below 60F you have to block some air to one radiator like the big rigs do) I only do this because I want as much control over my engine as possible but I would advise to others to let the low temp thermostat do the work for you... Sally has been "thermostat-less" for 15 years... You will LOVE seeing the digital oil temp in "one degree graduations", the coolant temp gauge only has marks every 25-50 degrees or so, and they are not that accurate to boot.. Oil temperature is much more important and coolant temp plays a big secondary roll in bringing the oil temp up to operating temp and then keeping it from going higher than desired.

POST 108Original post

Quotes source post: 18403453

I'll have a low temp thermostat and will be installing mine once I get my car back from F6I. That won't be for a few more weeks though.

POST 109Original post

I installed mine yesterday after after work - came one day earlier than anticipated! Kudos to @Coopduc for a very nicely put together kit. This is down to packaging in antistatic bags and very good directions with photos. These details matter and show that someone takes pride in their work / creation. The install took me no more than an hour with the bulk of it being backseat yoga. Running the wiring was fairly easy and all the wires were the right amount of length. I had no clue we had a spare phone connector hiding in the center console that could be used for power! The controller fits really nicely in the designated spot. I'd imagine those who did the GT3 dash mod can hide it under carpet somewhere as the yellow wire leading to the ECU is pretty long. Upon installation I turned the ignition on to make sure everything worked before buttoning everything up. As luck would have it one I did put everything back together, the screen would not turn on. The good old unplug and plug back in move on the controller fixed it. It was really nice being able to see when the oil got to temp. I actually drove with my polarized sub glasses on and had 0 visibility issues. I like that the text is sharp and the right amount of brightness to be easily visible on a sunny day but not overly bright at night. Well done there. Overall I think it's a great and well designed kit and priced well. My only nit pick would be the the fitment of the 3d printed screen holder. It's good but I may play around to see if I can make it look a bit cleaner in the dash. It does stick out a bit and I'd like it to sit a bit more flush. Just a minor nit pick and not a major issues. During a 44 mile drive with ambient temps between 63F and 54F with fairly steady cruising with a few harder accelerations my oil temps were anywhere between 204F - 209F with 5w-50 weight oil.

POST 110Original post

I do believe that Coop's oil temp gauge will end up being one of the most helpful tools in our daily arsenal of tools to measure and prolong engine life. Thanks Coop!

POST 111Original post

Quotes source post: 18405281

That reminds me; @Coopduc and/or @yaz996 might want to come up with a connector multiplier for that. I was already using it for power to the hazard switch phone mount and needed to do some splicing and soldering to have both devices get power from it.

POST 112 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I (and most surely yaz996) can easily put multiple leads on one connector. My wires are only 22 AWG. The pins can hold up to 14 AWG. Any idea what your requirements are? Maybe a “Y” connector with one male and one female end on the legs? Could even do one set switched and one set unswitched.

POST 113Original post

Quotes source posts: 18405672, 18405784

Yeah, I've made a handful of connectors/cables with switched (or unswitched) power for the USB module and pigtails for the other source. Could make a version that splits either power source, and anything else specific that someone wants. Been using 16 awg TXL for all the wiring.

POST 114Original post

I wonder if something like how computer power supplies deal with this issue, but with appropriate connectors, would be the most versatile option: ​​​​​​ Amazon Amazon Then Yaz's and Coopduc's or any other wiring could be split off easily; even using multiple Y's if needed.

POST 115Original post

I am a big fan of this gauge and need to get one for my wife’s 996. It has a 4.0 FSI Track Performer engine.

POST 116 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 18405970

Yes, that�s exactly how I would do it. I just need to design the mating part.

POST 117Original post

I've encountered an issue where my temp is now consistently reading 297-299F regardless of my actual engine temperature, I had noticed this as a rare transient before but on my commute this morning it transitioned from expected values to always ~300, reseating the connector at the controller didn't have any impact. I don't have a multimeter to test with, but I'm guessing a 300 reading corresponds to 0 volts, which may indicate an issue with the cable tap? I've got an aftermarket subwoofer box which sits directly over the DME and subjects that area to increased vibration, which is why I'm suspect of the tap, but will have to wait for the weekend to get back there and eyes on. Unfortunately I also don't have a way to pull the oil temp from the obd2 so I can't confirm if its an issue with the tap or with the actual sensor.

POST 118 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@dsbl The controller and display are working. You aren’t getting a signal from the green/red wire at the DME into the controller. You are correct that 300 deg = 0 volts Some things to check: The connector at the end of the yellow wire is locked into the green/red wire, and it’s attached to the correct wire. The yellow wire into the 3 pin connector at the controller is installed properly, and not is not broken. If you have a volt/ohm meter, disconnect the yellow wire at both connectors and check continuity of the yellow wire. Should have zero resistance. Let me know what you find. thanks, Charlie

POST 119 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I have a few more gauges now available in either Fahrenheit or Celsius. @hardtailer @NYPOWR4 @joe-1972 you have a PM. Others who may be interested please PM me. Thanks

POST 120Original post

I did my stretches and climbed into the back, but I found the tap still secure and no issues with the yellow wire. I moved the tap ~1cm further down the wire away from the DME with no change in behavior in the display. Measuring the yellow wire at the 3 pin connector with a multimeter shows ~.6 volts when running at operating temperature and after parking for an hour its at ~1 volt, looking at Ahsai's notes that appears to be the expected values. Are there any connectors inside the controller box which could have become loose?

POST 121 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@dsbl thanks for the update, and I apologize for your trouble. I agree the voltages you measured are normal. I�m assuming those values were measured at the controller end of the yellow wire, and if so confirms the wire is good the entire length. The other possibility is the socket on the yellow wire at the 3 pin connector is not mating properly with the pin in the controller. Maybe the socket is getting pushed out by the pin instead of engaging with it? A slight in/out movement is normal, but the sockets have a wedge-like tab that prevents it from backing out when it�s inserted, possibly that has failed. An easy test is to gently tug on the yellow wire at the connector to see if it pulls out. When installed there should not be any of the silver socket protruding out of the white connector. The only other connector is the 4 pin on the other side of the controller, but since the display is working I think it is good, otherwise the text would not display properly. There are, however, several solder joints on a pcb, possibly one has failed. I test every unit before shipping, so possibly something was damaged in transit. Regardless, I think the best solution is for me to send you another controller and wiring. You can install it and report back. I�ll send it out tomorrow.

POST 122Original post

I popped the case off and measured from the female side of the connector, when the unit is unpowered I get the same readings but as soon as its powered on it drops to .03 volts, so the display is correct in that regard. Not sure what could lead to that behavior.

POST 123Original post

Just to round this out, the replacement controller did resolve this issue, so presumably I was on the unfortunate end of the bathtub curve. The broken unit is going back to coop who graciously replaced the unit for me. The behavior of the failure was several driving hours of no issue after initial install, then I would observe the temp reading jump to 296-299 for under a second maybe once or twice an hour, with these jumps gradually happening more often. The final failure took about 60 seconds to go from working to jumping between the two readings to failed. Also took the chance to pop the dash back off and figure out what happened to my display screens, the filament on one backlight bulb was completely gone and the other was broken but still mostly in place hence it intermittently working. I had really banged on the unit during reinstall, so just a word of caution with ~20 year old bulbs in there, but having done it a second time you can certainly remove/replace the dash without beating on it. Will replace all these bulbs with LEDs just to resolve it for the long term.

POST 124Original post

I tracked some numbers on my oil temp gauge a few weeks ago. 65 degree day. My objective was to compare the oil temperature to water temperature. Obviously my water temp numbers are my approximation of the analog gauge. The "cooling" numbers were taken with the engine off and the car sitting outside on a grassy area.

POST 125Original post

Hey Coop, I fellow 996 owner has contacted me about the video on my oil temp gauge I put on Youtube years ago and wants an Oil Temp Gauge for his 996. If you still have some avalible I will send him your way... Do you have some in stock??

POST 126 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 18606150

I haven't had any requests in a while and I haven't actively advertised, but I have all materials needed to produce some. I can build some over the weekend to ship on Monday. If that works, send him my way. Thanks!

POST 127Original post

Quotes source post: 18608659

Sent him your way ..his name/handle Jason Ouellette (Jehu) Cheers !!

POST 128Original post

Hi, I was going to message but don't have the rights yet. I'd like to purchase one of these if there are any available. Apologies if this detail is available in this thread, it's really long at this point!

POST 129Original post

Quotes source post: 18609416

Doh lol. Just saw this after I posted. But i can't message so please reach out to me!

POST 130 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Hi Jehu, I didn’t see any way to contact you, email me at [email removed] for details. Thanks

POST 132Original post

@Coopduc I wasn�t planning to take the car out for a drive after the install, but wanted to confirm that the LCD will only lightup only after starting the car. I have everything plugged in but LCD is dark with key to the ACC position.

POST 133 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 18645093

@Tom Loder With t he key first stop clockwise you should see the words "Oil Temp" appear after about 5 seconds.

POST 134Original post

Oil Temp gauge installed ! Installation time for the technician was approx 1.5hrs. I added some orange translucent adhesive film to try changing the color from white. (Not totally happy with the color yet or the film install�will try again soon) Gotta love the continuous development of the 996 platform!

POST 135Original post

Nice! Mine goes on in the next few weeks. Looking forward to watching the numbers. It is a really cool and simple solution for something that we needed for a long time.

POST 136Original post

Finally got out for a 2 day DE event with this, very happy with how easy it was to read quickly when scanning the dash, temps got into the upper 230s towards the end of the afternoon runs and it was helpful to keep an eye on the value through the cooldown lap/paddock to let it come down a bit before turning the car off. I also swapped the bulbs for the 3 dash displays to 6k white LEDs to try and better color match the display, this was more of a pain than I was expecting and in hindsight was not worth the effort, I like YYCporsche's approach better.

POST 137Original post

@Coopduc Just now seeing this thread. Definitely interested if you have more of these in F. Thanks!

POST 138 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Yes, I have kits available for immediate delivery. PM me for details. @G8rJimbo Thanks for your interest, I will PM you details.

POST 139Original post

Quotes source post: 18743755

@Coopduc Please count me in for one! Shipped to 94115 please. Thanks for going the distance to make this critical measure a reality. I have a new 3.4 to Vision built out 3.8 I would like to protect and keep for a lifetime.

POST 141 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@Murphey Parker Shipped! I PM’d you the tracking number. About the only mistake you can make is connecting to the wrong wire at the DME. I made the instructions clear, but stuff happens! Make sure you connect to the wire attached to the pin# in the instructions by physically disconnecting the connector from the DME and counting the pins. Don’t depend on wire color alone. Here is some advice from another user, “ The identification of the oil temp lead on bosch motronic 5.2 generation is helped, I believe, by mentioning that the correct green-red wire is the thinnest gauge has 0.5mm^2 cross section whilst the other gn-rd wire (that carries primary coil cyl. 2(?) voltage is 1mm^2. Third wire is rd-gn and as such different but might be mistaken for oil temp wire when in reality it is switched +12V for radio/accessories. It is 1.5mm^2 and thus of greater cross section than the correct wire.” Good luck, any contact me if you have any questions BEFORE doing it wrong.😁

POST 142Original post

Got mine! Won’t be able to install for a bit, but looking forward to it!

POST 143Original post

Got mine! I am installing this week (gotta pass SMOG first tho :/) then ill post up sone pics.

POST 144Original post

Pic as promised! I need to see if I can better move the bezel to fit the contour of gauges better but install was smooth! I needed to install a waterproof ECU alarm/ immobilizer case under driver seat anyways so good timing for pulling some panels and running a wire. Couple notes: Gauge starts picking up temp at 100 degrees. I will see if i can find some old gel from my lighting days and find an amber overlay to match but brightness of panel and readability during daylight is great. For some reason, and I bet its the signal and processing priorities of the ancient DME, but on the highway my temp gauge defaults back to start up screen until I come to a stop or lower speeds. I do have a 1999 and (the DME's are known to be finicky, stuck between bosch's progression of software and hardware pulled over from the 993's + hard getting this generation of DME tuned) I lost data at speed. Regardless, it is so cool to have that info ready and available as I plan on tracking and AX'ing this car this year. Once the car got up to temp, I think the highest oil temp I saw after 30 min of driving was 189* and for reference, I have a LN Spin on adapter with bigger K&N filter plus FVD oil pan with a 3.4 -> 3.8 Stroker with approx. 3/4 quarts more than stock on a 75 degree CA day. Thanks for you energy and input into this nifty product @Coopduc

POST 145Original post

@Coopduc I received and installed your oil temp gauge in my 2004 996.2 C4S just in time for track day today (Sonoma, 20-May)! I can't say enough about the quality of your workmanship -- from the actual product (wow!) to the packaging and instructions. I'm really grateful for your persistence and pursuit of excellence in making such a fine product. Many, many thanks!

POST 146Original post

how hard would it be to just have LED based lights instead of the actual temperature? looking for lights to signal certain temps..

POST 147 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@Justin76 sure it’s possible. How many leds are you thinking about, and at what temp intervals? Do you think there’s a lot of interest in this setup?

POST 148Original post

Quotes source post: 18817372

could be as an alternative as no display is needed� green led at 180 yellow at 240 red at 250 might be a great start id be willing to use it

POST 149Original post

I might prefer a simpler option too. I'd be happy with just a single light that comes on at 180, maybe it can be placed to the right of the oil-level LCD display #11. Crazy idea. Could make a single light that could change color in the same location as the oil pressure warning light, but maintain the warning for pressure as well?

POST 150Original post

Quotes source post: 18817617

so many options for placement with small LED's .. Hopefully he can make it happen

POST 151Original post

@Coopduc Just reading skimming through this thread on my lunch break, and I'm certainly in for purchasing one of these! I have a 1999 C4 with the Motronic 7.2(?) E-gas. Let me know how to get you paid if you have any available. Cheers!

POST 152Original post

I'm not sure reducing the digital display down to LED's would be the way to go, but rather an up-grade to "include" LED's at the perimeter of the display in a "Red flashing LED" at 250F , a yellow one at 240F , and a good-to-Go Green one at 180F may be more desirable...

POST 153Original post

Quotes source post: 18820950

I'm good either way as long as LED's are the warning signals. On track Warning LED's make way more sense than a number.

POST 155Original post

Quotes source post: 18821373

I think this is an excellent suggestion .

POST 156Original post

Changing colors or flashing lights would be pretty cool as an additional higher priced option. But I have to say that I like it just the way it's designed now due to its simplicity. The ability to glance at the actual oil temp levels on the straights is more important to me from a monitoring standpoint. Who knows, maybe Coop has the opportunity to develop 2 or 3 different products. (1) the current gauge as is, (2) a second gauge that is programed by the purchaser for temp level bands that just shows colors w/o numbers, and (3) a combo gauge that combines the numbers with colors. Bet these gauges have more application than just the 996. Pretty cool.

POST 157Original post

So after reading through all this, are the 99 c2s excluded from this? ive already tapped into my DME per Skip�s version. The display was removed due to GT3 console delete. The wiring remains. can I make it work with the existing wiring?

POST 159 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@CharlieBravo my gauge will work with ‘99 C2. I can’t comment on Skip’s version, but I’m confident he must have tapped into the DME at the same point mine does, the wiring itself is probably different. My gauge includes all wiring needed.

POST 160Original post

@Coopduc @CharlieBravo The Oil Temp Gauge I did about 5 years ago was just a DIY Project, it did use the same DME hook-up that Coops gauge does, and just three wires, the power-ground-and sensor wires but I think most who DIY'd it used a three wire cable to the DME and made all three connections at the DME instead of using the phone connector.. I like the plug-n-play of the phone connector better, and Coops display doesn't take up a whole cubby like the display I did...Coops looks much more OEM whereas the one I did looks more aftermarket.. I think having an accurate Oil Temp Gauge is very important and Coop did an excellent job on this... The one I did for myself 5 years ago..... You Tube

POST 162Original post

@Coopduc Just read through this thread and I'm certainly in for purchasing one of these! Do you plan on making another batch?

POST 163 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Hi stiana- I have 2 units currently in stock. I’ll pm you with details. oops…it looks like you can’t receive pm yet. You can email me at [email removed] for details.

POST 164Original post

I'm interested if you have any more in stock. @Coopduc

POST 167 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I have the gauge pod mounted units available again now. PM me for details. Also I created a version that mounts in the batwing, based on a thread from @996C438 . I installed the first unit in my car, and I must admit I like it very much. Functionally it�s identical to the gauge pod mounted kit, but IMO is a bit neater appearance if straight ahead visibility is not a concern. The down side is you need to cut a hole in the batwing to mount it. And since you only get one chance to do it right, I created a template to position it correctly. Of course it is not suitable for. vehicles with seat heater buttons in the batwing.

POST 168Original post

In my opinion that looks great . Very clean . Nice work . I realized after you and I spoke via PM that my oil level/temp sender is not working . Wasn't a big deal because my 99 has a dipstick . But now I need to replace the sensor to be able to use it for the gauge . That sensor is a PIA to replace so I will get back with you .

POST 169Original post

Thinking about this some more , can your gauge be used with a conventional oil temp sensor ? I am close to installing a 2 qt extended sump . I can drill and tap for a Bosch or similar sensor. Thoughts ?

POST 170 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@996C438 the current design cannot be used with a conventional sensor. I’m sure I could design one, but not sure why anyone would want one. The stock porsche sensor works with an extended sump, as would my gauge, and no drilling/tapping required. See post #11 in the thread below. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...emp-gauge.html

POST 171Original post

@Coopduc have you come across any displays that would fit in a horseshoe switch blank? Already have the CAD done for the OEM blank and some modified versions when I did my USB-C port if it helps you at all.

POST 172Original post

Quotes source post: 19021773

this would be great .. also adding warning LED by color still would be a good add on option

POST 173Original post

Quotes source post: 19021739

The reason I asked is because my oil level/temp sensor is not working . And it's a PIA to replace . My sample size of one wouldn't be worth your or anyone else designing one . I get it . That's why I started a separate post a few months ago asking for help looking for a small rectangular led gauge to work with a temp sensor that I could install into the extended oil sump .

POST 174 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@yaz996 Interesting idea. The text portion of the display I currently use is visible through the oval cutout, but the pub it's attached to requires modification to fit and I'm not sure if the horseshoe could be installed correctly after. I'm not willing to carve up my only horseshoe to further investigate. Anyway, I made a crude mock-up on my bench for of proof of concept, (ignore the white color). Just something to think about.

POST 175Original post

There's pretty much room horizontally behind the horseshoe. I like that location, but then again I like the location you currently use too. The horseshoe looks cleaner but it not in line of sight when scanning gauges.

POST 176Original post

Quotes source post: 19023429

How about doing a mock up where the factory phone mic screen is located?

POST 177Original post

@Coopduc WOW! I just found this thread but don�t have the permissions yet to PM you so I emailed you. I�ll take two of your kits, I have a 2001 Turbo and a 99� C2. An oil temp gauge on a 996 is like a god sent man. Thank you for inventing this and everyone else who beta tested this for the past couple of years.

POST 178 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

There has been some interest in a gauge that fits in an unused oval in the horseshoe…so I came up with a workable solution. It’s not perfect in that it requires head movement to read, but in my opinion it’s not a gauge that requires constant monitoring. It is, in my opinion, the best looking solution. It does require a slight modification to the back side of the horseshoe, but the original blanks or switches still can be retrofitted if desired. I tried it in two different positions, for now I’m leaving it in the top left side even though it is partially obscured by the steering wheel rim. A slight head lean to the right solves the problem.

POST 179Original post

I LIKE it! Now if I could get up the intestinal fortitude to crawl behind the front seats to tear into the wiring back there.

POST 180Original post

Wow ! I thought the bat wing gauge was sweet this version is even better . Very well done .

POST 181Original post

Quotes source post: 19069418

it�s really quite simple. Instructions are great

POST 182Original post

Quotes source post: 19069591

The not so simple part is the flexibility required of my 66 year old body to climb into the rear seat area. Even more difficult is getting out. I spent quite a bit of time back there when I was routing wiring for the rear camera. That was a couple of years ago. I do s daily. stretch regimen, but flexibility is still not a given anymore. Doug

POST 183Original post

Alright - I'm doing this job - among others - on my 986 S now. I have a few questions specific to doing this on a 986. It looks like I can either get from the cabin to the trunk without going into the engine compartment - this seems desirable. Would love to hear from coopduc/porschetech/anyone who's done this on a 986 on this point. Secondly, what I see in my trunk doesn't seem to correspond to the 996 at all. Any advice on what to aim for to actually hook up the sensor? Here's what I see:

POST 184Original post

The unit with the sticker reading BOSCH and cartronic is the DME. In the fitting instructions it tells you which of the 3 connectors contains the oil temp sensor wire and which colour coding this wire has.

POST 185Original post

Great. Thanks! I'm assuming there's no reason I can't route out through the trunk vents, under the matting and into the cabin and skip going into the engine bay? Also, thanks for the quick support - I'm on to routing back to my batwing. The version I have is one meant to go on the cluster, but I don't want to block my convertible top status lights, so I'm going to cut it down and mount it in the batwing at the bottom of the console. I started a gauge cluster upgrade, this job, and a few others this weekend and I now totally get the winter project window these cars can have. it will probably take the duration of the week to finish all this and put the car back together with slow disassembly, careful wire routing, waiting for connectors and parts, etc... - it will feel good to fire it up again!

POST 186Original post

Quotes source post: 19024016

absolutely love this idea!!

POST 187Original post

Hey all, I just inherited an 03 C4S that has this digital oil temp gauge, works great. Its currently reading in Celsius, anyone know how to nudge it to Fahrenheit?

POST 188Original post

Quotes source post: 19176255

That would require a re-flash of the microprocessor. Contact the creator, Coopduc via PM or perhaps he'll chime in right here.

POST 189 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@bostonaudi hardtailer is correct, unfortunately there is no switch, but I can re-flash it for you. I don’t need the display or the wiring, only the controller. It’s the small black box located behind the batwing. carefully unplug the white connectors on the ends and send it to me, I’ll PM you my address.

POST 190Original post

ok, thanks. I'll have a look behind the panel to see if I spot the controller.

POST 191Original post

Quotes source post: 19176520

Hey hey, I have 3 996's, how can I sign up for the horseshoe version ? :-)

POST 192 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@Vect PM sent. I'm a bit confused by your other thread regarding the +12v and ground in the DME. The gauge I make takes the power from the phone connector behind the center console. The only wire to the DME is for the oil temperature signal. If you make your own gauge I suggest you do the same. If you want to purchase mine, see the PM. Either way, I'm happy to help with questions you have, and can send you the installation instructions in advance if you're unsure which way to go.

POST 193Original post

Quotes source post: 19069402

Is there anyway to use the OEM LCD clock in the gauge cluster? I would glady give up a clock function to have a hidden digital oil temp readout.

POST 194Original post

Quotes source post: 19372107

It's possible but not easy by any means. The display driver for the LCD would need to be reverse-engineered.

POST 195Original post

Sooo, the 996 doesn't have an oil temp gauge, but the DME nevertheless gives out oil temp information. I conclude therefore that the DME value is based on other parameters. Can someone explain this to me? And, if the DME oil temp isn't being physically measured, do we know at what spot in the engine (oil sump, oil filter, etc) the DME temp. best correlates with?

POST 196Original post

Your conclusion is incorrect. The oil temperature is measured directly by a sensor that connects to the DME. It's item 13 below:

POST 197Original post

^^^^^ What he said, plus that location is getting oil splash from the crankshaft main and rod bearings and will be the "hottest" oil temp anywhere on the engine...also that same sensor has the oil level digital display sensor in it too..

POST 198Original post

Quotes source post: 19373051

I bought and extra cluster a ways back just to mess with this. My goal was not to hack into the cluster, but only to mod the external input. There is a direct voltage signal for the digital exterior temp gauge, but that gauge peaks at something like 140F (I don't have the data in front of me), so it's problematic to use that, but possible. You would have to let it show F, but scale the voltage for Celsius. i.e., It says 100F, but that actually means 100C oil temp. There is also a direct voltage input to drive the coolant temp, so that could be hacked to show oil temp too. Someone, somewhere did this with a switch to alternate between coolant/oil. I also looked at the battery voltage gauge. Unfortunately this is driven by the voltage that powers the cluster. So while you could modulate that, and modify the gauge, it would shut off or give errors at low signal.

POST 199Original post

I went down the same path before and ended up replacing the entire center LCD with a custom display: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...r-996-1-a.html Still a work in progress though, and it's been on hiatus for a few months as I've been busy with other projects.

POST 200Original post

Quotes source post: 19417034

Thanks guys. By utter coincidence I just got to this diagram in Paul Frere's "Porsche 911 Story" tonight. But why then can't we tap into this sensor directly? Edit: Or is it the oil sensor wires to the DME that's being tapped into for units like Coop's?

POST 201Original post

Quotes source post: 19417844

Who says we can't? That's what this entire thread is about. The very first post is about how @Coopduc connected an Arduino to the oil temp signal wire with a custom display. He now sells a kit to do this yourself.

POST 202 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Actually I do connect to the sensor wire output, just near the DME rather than nearer to the sensor. It’s just opposite ends of the same wire and easier to access at that location because it’s inside the car vs deep in the engine compartment.

POST 203Original post

Quotes source post: 19417879

Exactly that. I was thrown by the part of the thread that discussed getting oil temperature with a diagnostic scanner. It finally came to me when I looked at the diagram.

POST 204Original post

@Coopduc I have to compliment you on the digital oil temp gauge. It took me awhile to get it on the car which was no reflection on your gauge, I was just waiting to complete a project I had with seats out and just got it in. This gauge is incredible. Great location, easy to see and read, as well as extremely helpful to monitor oil temps in relation to water temps. Quite frankly, this is something everyone should have from a monitoring and prevention standpoint. My next step is to track the car with it to understand the oil temp bands and then add the 997S oil cooler to see if the 20% larger cooler has any effect on cooling, then add a center radiator that's been sitting on my shelf for years and test. Nice work!

POST 205Original post

@Coopduc , just on the track yesterday and the gauge worked perfectly. It was a 2 mile long track (Blackhawk in IL), ran 12 qts of oil (Driven DI40) with the UAOS track, 2 qt deep sump, 2 radiators. Oil temps never exceeded 240 with ~20 min at speed per session. Temps would most likely be higher at 25 min at speed or on larger track with longer straights. It was finally good to know after 20 years what the actual oil temp numbers looked like on this track. Very easy to monitor the gauge at speed. Nice work!

POST 206Original post

Quotes source post: 19417879

Hi there, any news on the delta values I mentioned ?

POST 207Original post

Quotes source post: 19538814

These are great temps with DI40! What was the ambient temperature? Once I go through my last case of FR50 I was thinking of moving to DI50, which is a 50 weight oil. For my use case of a mostly street car with a rare track day here and there, this should prove a great option if those are the temps you're seeing on DI40. The oil seemed to handle the track well. You should do a UOA to see what the viscosity and oxidation values look like.

POST 208Original post

Quotes source post: 19539030

Cloudy in low 80s. High humidity. My 3.6 really likes the DI40 especially at start-up. Oil pressures where i could sneak a peak looked very good with 12 qts of oil. But to your point, I am moving to DI50 for the warm weather months and track going fwd. Di 40 for cold weather months. I plan on posting the last couple of UOAs on the DI40 thread from my Chicago to Phila trip in April and yesterday's track day. Viscosity and oxidation values have been very strong with DI40.

POST 209Original post

Hi there, im interested in your digital temp gauge but unfortunately rennlist will not let me send you a message. If you could please shoot me a pm or email me at [email removed] I would appreciate it!

POST 210Original post

Hi - I'm interested in this (into the horseshoe location). I'm a nervous tinkerer so I'd be curious if there's a set of steps to install anywhere? (not that I found) Also what's sort of money is the device? Cheers

POST 211Original post

Hi I am also interested in the oil temp gauge but cannot direct message. Email is [email removed]

POST 213Original post

Hey @Coopduc are these still available? if so, please email me at [email removed]

POST 214Original post

Hi @Coopduc, I'd love to take one of these off you hands. Please email how and where to pay. [email removed] Thanks!

POST 215Original post

Hi @Coopduc are these still available? if so, please email me at [email removed] Many thanks in advance

POST 216Original post

I too am interested in purchasing one of your gauges. My email is [email removed]

POST 217Original post

Would like to purchase the digital oil temp gauge for 2000 C2. Please advise how to proceed w/ purchase. email is alabamatoy at gmail dot com .

POST 218Original post

I have a brand new one from Coopduc that I haven't installed yet. If he doesn't reply and you want it, PM me.

POST 219Original post

Quotes source post: 19830359

Ditto, @Coopduc ! 2001 tt. ps, this is like a godsend for someone perpetually worried about oiling issues.

POST 220Original post

@Coopduc I too would like one of your oil temperature gauges. PM sent

POST 221Original post

Quotes source post: 19682886

Hello - I am interested in the digital temp gauge. I seem to recall you were thinking of making one to fit in one of the oval switch holes in horseshoe? I may be mistaken, correct if wrong. I am very interested in putting one in an "empty" oval switch location. If not, is the little add-on one by gauges the only other option? DM or reply in thread, patiently waiting. YM-OP-MV

POST 222 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20072414

PM Sent.

POST 223Original post

@Coopduc I am not able to PM you, but I am very interested in the gauge kit to mount in the switch blank location for my new to me 2001 C4. If this is available can you please email me at BigEd94TT at gmail? Thanks!

POST 225Original post

I've got my gauge kit, and it's going in the horseshoe since I've got useful warning lights in the dash I don't want to cover. I'd like to install it where my rear window defroster switch is (right side middle), and move the defrost switch to one of the two blank spots on the left. Has anyone moved this switch from one side to the other? Easy or hard? I plan to take the A/C controller out to make it easier. (and if it was a Corvette, I'd just take 5 long pieces of wire with spade connectors on the ends to accomplish it, but this is, after all, a Porsche! Just. a few inches to the left, please!

POST 226Original post

Quotes source post: 20162781

A 911 is just a superBeetle, any reasonably clean crimp job is fine lol. You could unpin the connector and reuse the original pins with longer wire, a lot more effort but a cleaner result. I'd be more bothered by the fact that the tall spot of a right-side button will be wrong once you move the button to the left side of the horseshoe. I suppose you can flip it upside down if you ignore the arrows. Is there a part number for a left-sided defroster switch button?

POST 227Original post

RHD cars have buttons on the opposite side, so check out ebay.uk for opposite hand defroster button.

POST 228Original post

Quotes source post: 20166718

Flipping the switch upside down never occurred to me. That's a great idea! I rarely use the rear window defogger anyway, so I'm not too worried that the illustration on the button is upside down! Thanks!

POST 229Original post

Charlie/Coopduc, I had my center console off installing my Numeric and saw that little yellow wire. Just wanted to say thanks again for engineering and producing the oil temp gauge. Huge respect, sir!

POST 231Original post

Quotes source post: 20147812

I messaget you @Coopduc as well, regarding the temp cauge.

POST 233 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Thank you for the compliments @Seeeu911 !

POST 234Original post

I received my Coopduc oil-temp-gauge. I was totally amazed at the absolute perfection of packaging, shipping, and deliverer of it. The gauge was protected by 4 level of protection, all perfect. The gauge is pretty small. As an aside, I did not think it was that small, just me. The gauge will fit the horseshoe right side, and looks to be great! I sincerely compliment this product developed by another 996 nut. I offer great praise and compliment for this gauge and urge others interested, just order it and buy it. I give 11 stars out of 10 stars as valuation review. Go for it. YOMV

POST 235Original post

Has anyone figured out the correct gel or filter to get the color temperature of the display to match the instrument panel lighting color?

POST 236Original post

If you live in a big town, look up "Theater and stage lighting supplies" the typically dhave extensive 6x6 and 8x8 inch "gell" filters for lighting cut easy with scissors.

POST 237Original post

This is exactly what I am looking for! Very interested in buying a kit if you are still making them. I am not able to PM at the moment, so if possible please contact me on kristian dot bekken at gmail dot com.

POST 238Original post

I was looking for one for a while and came across this, ive ordered one anyway. Should be with me in around a week they said. https://www.dynamicracevision.co.uk/...perature-gauge

POST 239Original post

Quotes source post: 20345187

same here @Coopduc how do you go about selling these?

POST 240Original post

Quotes source post: 20360392

I sent him a PM with my shipping coordinates and the rest is history. I am very happy with this upgrade. The fit of the kit is awesome, @Coopduc was extremely helpful, everything is superb. It is very surprising to see the oil temps on the M96. When the deck spoiler goes up, oil temps go down 10F like clockwork. To keep the oil temps slightly above 180F at 75MPH you need to run 3500 rpm or higher with the spoiler retracted.

POST 241Original post

Quotes source post: 20360543

180 seems very low.

POST 242Original post

Quotes source post: 20360543

Thanks.Thanks and a question too... is it conceivable that the wiring @Coopduc provides could actually drive a VDO analog guage or is this apples/oranges?

POST 243Original post

Its my understanding apples and oranges. The read out interprets the info sent to the dme from the porsche sensor and not a common sensor that an aftermarket guage would reapond to.

POST 244Original post

Quotes source post: 20361060

yeah makes total sense. I really want an analogue gauge thinking about wiring a sensor into a port on the LN spin on adapter but given all i read about being careful with the lubrication system in the M96 im leery about messing. I assume the sensor probe just gets into the oil flow path at the neck of the spon on adapter just enough to produce a reading

POST 245Original post

U wont have an issue with the sensor in that port or the other adaptor that was recommended.

POST 246Original post

Quotes source post: 20361097

Just need to convert the signal thats all.

POST 247Original post

Quotes source post: 20360673

Charlie and I talked about this, because I agree completely. I wondered if the sensor location was in a place that would cause it to get a low temperature? However, this is a Porsche and Charlie said it was in the right place. In the Spring I'm adding this switch to control the spoiler.

POST 248Original post

Ive been busy building an app for 996.2 cars. You can use a display in the car, or app this connects to carplay and shows the values and thresholds you set and alerts you to those thresholds!

POST 249Original post

Quotes source post: 20390989

Nice 😊. I typically run the Torque app�it�s just missing Oil Temp. Will you be able to show things like fuel trim?

POST 250Original post

Quotes source post: 20390993

Anything on OBD or CAN for the 996.2 i can show on it

POST 251Original post

Quotes source post: 20390989

Excellent work. Let us know where to find it. Are you using elm827 or something more modern?

POST 252Original post

Quotes source post: 20391043

ELM purely for the PIDS & Can for other

POST 253Original post

Quotes source post: 20390989

How do you get this data? My understanding was you can't get Oil Temp from the OBD2 port. I'm very curious about this.

POST 254Original post

Quotes source post: 20394631

you get it over CAN

POST 255Original post

Quotes source post: 20394650

What's the PID for it? Have you verified the value matches what is reported from PIWIS/Durametric?

POST 256Original post

Quotes source post: 20394650

How can I download your app? What OBD2 plug would I use? I currently use the BlueDriver plug and app but it doesn't show oil temp.

POST 258Original post

Hi. Is it possible to get the PID for trying with OBD Fusion as well? Thanx, Simon

POST 259Original post

Quotes source post: 20395278

the can is not on the obd plug. According to AIM oil temp is not available on it for their data loggers.

POST 260Original post

Hi Coopduc, just stumble into this Oil temp display thread. I am definitively interested on an oil display to the right of the dashboard gauges. could you email info on prices and other details related to this add on. [email removed] I have a 996 2001 convertible. thank you

POST 261Original post

Oil temp would come from a device thats connected to CANBUS. There isnt canbus termination at the OBD port

POST 262Original post

Quotes source post: 20394728

Its not a PID its a can message its not advertised over OBD

POST 263Original post

Just to get away from arcane technical issues and back to practical issues, I'm good with turning wrenches, but not so much with electrical connectors, and I installed the oil temperature gauge in my horseshoe with excellent results. It's reassuring to be able to glance over and see my oil temps, with little regard to the bus the data travels over. As others have said, this is a gauge that should have been there from the factory, but thank you, CoopDuc for engineering this valuable gauge, and making it so easy to install!

POST 264 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I have kits available in 3 configurations depending on preferred mounting location: 1. on the gauge cluster (the original design) 2. In an unused switch location in the horseshoe (the most popular) 3. In the batwing PM me for details and more info

POST 265Original post

[QUOTE=dnz996;20390989]J'ai travaill� sur une application pour les voitures 996.2. Vous pouvez l'utiliser sur un �cran dans la voiture, ou via l'application qui se connecte � CarPlay et afficher les valeurs et les seuils que vous avez d�finis, et vous alerter lorsque ces seuils sont d�pass�s ! [/QUOTE ] ​​​​​​Bonjour, je suis tr�s int�ress� par votre candidature, mais je ne parviens pas � vous envoyer de message. Pourriez-vous s'il vous pla�t me fournir plus d'informations ? Merci

POST 266Original post

I have a 2000 996 and a 2001 Boxster S that I would like to put this in. Not sure where to find this to purchase. [email removed]

POST 267 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20473093

Are you looking for one of the gauges I build or the app dnz996 referred to? If my gauge, email me at [email removed] . @dnz996 In order to eliminate confusion, I suggest you start a new thread about the app you are developing. I don�t intend to create an app version, and I suspect people interested in the app have no interest in my gauge.

POST 268Original post

Quotes source post: 20473151

This! I plan on getting and installing one as soon as I decide how/what I want my center console to look like! But, I�m leaning towards the unused button version.

POST 269Original post

I'm almost done installing my gauge, I'm at the DME and there is no wire in the location that the instructions give. I'm working on a 2004 996.2. has anyone else come up against this issue?

POST 270Original post

Quotes source post: 20475147

Try checking the orientation of the wire bundle. I found the wire 180 deg out (upside down) in the loom.

POST 273Original post

Hello Coopduc New on this forum and can't send you a message. Can you please send me infos for the horseshoes kit on ma mail? [email removed] Thanks

POST 274Original post

Hi all, I stumbled across this thread randomly. What excellent work Coopduc. I am based in the uk and currently running a 2003 996 Turbo X50. Bought it last year at 127,000 miles. Have done a little over 10,000 in the last year. I haven't been craving an oil temp sensor but would be interested in one. @Coopduc Please can you DM me as apparently I'm not allowed to until I have contributed a bit more, which is totally understandable. Thank you Best Luke

POST 275Original post

Could you also email me at [email removed] so I can order one of these? Thanks!

POST 277Original post

Hi Sir, I've sent you an email from [email removed] Look forward to your reply 🫡 Uk based 🇬🇧

POST 278Original post

Installed with transparent orange vinyl, three layers, laid over gauge face to match dash gauges.

POST 279Original post

Quotes source post: 20479265

That’s what I’m talkin’ ‘bout!

POST 280Original post

Quotes source post: 20479265

This looks excellent! Would you be able to share the vinyl you used? I have some gel from photography, and the color didn't work, but critically, I don't think I'd be able to stack three layers of it either!

POST 281Original post

Quotes source post: 20479296

I used this vinyl which I got from Amazon. It has an adhesive Cut your pieces to be oversized when you stack them and then I just held it up against the lens opening and kept trimming until I got the size I wanted. Then I peeled off the backing and stuck it on to the lens.

POST 282 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20479265

well done! I�ll order some and try it�maybe add it to my kit. Thanks!

POST 283Original post

Quotes source post: 20481034

Cool. Make sure that you get the type with adhesive on it. I ordered headlight PPF, and you need to use three layers in order for the color to be deep enough.

POST 284Original post

Hey @Porsche Bloke , can you provide a link to the exact product you used? Please : )

POST 285Original post

This is the product I ordered from Amazon. Remember three layers to get a deep color. Basically it is orange headlight PPF.

POST 286Original post

When I seared Amazon for “ZIMISI 11.8x48 inches car” I only get three, unrelated products. If you don’t mind, go to “your orders” and click on the product description. Then copy the specific web address to the item and post it here. I think a lot of people are going to want to do this. It’s been the main reason I haven’t ordered the gauge!

POST 287 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

This is what I just ordered Amazon Amazon

POST 288Original post

Quotes source post: 20481061

When I placed the order, I searched for Orange headlight PPF

POST 289Original post

Quotes source post: 20481071

That�s funny! Your link took me to this nursing chair!

POST 290 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Ok, I ordered the same orange material as @Porsche Bloke and applied the 3 layers…unfortunately I did not see the same result. Mine looks very yellow, not close to orange at all. I would not be happy with this in my car. I couldn’t get a good picture in my car for comparison, but on my bench you can clearly see it’s not orange. I suspect there is significant variation in colors from this Chinese film, for now I’m going to continue to produce white only.

POST 291Original post

How many layers? I used three layers of vinyl. If you want to text me your street address I would be happy to send you some of what I have so that you can see. In fact I'll be happy to send you the rest of the roll because I don't need 8 ft of it.

POST 292 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20486805

I also used 3 layers. I�ll PM you the address. Thanks

POST 293Original post

Morning from over the pond. @Coopduc quick question for you. Sorry if I missed it in the thread, is it possible to change the temp from F to C for us folk on the little island over here? Thanks.

POST 294 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20487115

Yes, I can speak Celsius also:

POST 295Original post

Finally installed mine this weekend! Super fun project, and I'm overall really happy with the extra data point. The installation was very easy - the only nerve wracking part is making sure you're splicing into the right wire. I found that jiggling the one I thought might be it, helped show where it was in the pin-connector and confirmed I was right. Oil Temp displays until you hit 100 degrees, and sure enough after a little driving - it starts reading. Can't thank the gentleman enough who makes these. Everything from the packaging to the install to the final execution was super easy and simple.

POST 296Original post

I installed mine as well, pretty slick. Great instructions and very cool product.

POST 297Original post

Broken record here, just relaying all the same, from super nice packaging and straight forward directions that were easy to follow. I bought this kit over the Syracuse NY winter storage period and today finally was my 1st day out of garage. I did the install in 55deg sunshine, and it took under 2 hours of putzing. Went out and rode brakes a little to clean rotors surface rust and watched OIL TEMP come to life landing on 188-191 depending on my pushing the engine RPMs. Very happy another satisfied customer, thanks!

POST 298Original post

Coopduc: Can this be installed in a 2002 Turbo - same wire in the rear harness? Thanks, Mike

POST 299 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20525423

@dmcampbell yes,it attaches to the green/red wire connected to pin 5 of connector III

POST 300Original post

The Turbo oil temp sensor is very different from the Carerra one. Voltages are opposite.

POST 301 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20525806

I have not heard this, can you explain?

POST 302Original post

One is an NTC element and the other is a PTC element. I can't recall which is which.

POST 303Original post

Quotes source post: 20526795

So, iirr 1 has resistance go up with temp increase, the other has resistance go down with temp increase. NTC= Negative Temperature Coefficient _ resistance decreases as temperature increases PTC = Positive Temperature Coefficient _ resistance increases as temperature increases Curious as to how this all works... Can the values be turned around in the code..? Or does the DME do all the computation, and just sends the current temp. If thats the case, the coop temp gauge can just use the existing signal..? Just not sure if the wire we connect to is coming directly from the temp sender...?

POST 304 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20527057

The wire my gauge connects to is the signal wire coming from the sensor. The signal voltage decreases as temperature increases, and the conversion from voltage to temperature is done by the code in the controller I provide. The DME connector location is just a convenient location to access it, I don't use any output from the DME. I don't have a separate code for turbo cars and I haven't created a thread in the turbo forum, but I can't confirm that no gauges have been installed in turbos, I suspect they have but haven't received any feedback regarding functionality, therefore I can't confirm the difference in the sensors.

POST 305Original post

I have made two for Turbos, and confirmed readings vs. PIWIS. I also made one for the 722.6 Tiptronic. I can find the equation in my notes. I'll give it to you.

POST 306Original post

So, it will not work properly on a 996tt without the revised code? Thanks, Mike

POST 307 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20528652

I don�t have access to a turbo to confirm, and I have no reason to believe the post by @theprf is inaccurate, therefore I can�t recommend installing the gauge in turbo cars. I�ll update if additional info becomes known.

POST 309Original post

The oil temp/tiptronic temp device I made is very different from either Ashai's (from whom I took inspiration) or coopduc's. I used a microcontroller called an ADUC841 with a very good ADC and a very good DAC on it, because I use this particular part on a lot of equipment that I manufacture. My circuit reads the voltages from the tip and oil temp sensors as the are fed to the DME/TCU. From the voltages it calculates the temperature in Degrees F. Then I use two tiny 3 digit voltmeters to display these temperature readings, outputting voltages that are equal to the calculated temperatures. So 180F is output as 1.80V. None of that matters for this purpose, as I presume that coopduc's processor can do the required math. For the Turbo oil temp sensor, 3.0 Volts is about 97F and 0.3 volts is about 294F and the curve is logarithmic. Equation to calculate oil temperature in Degree F based on 996/997 Turbo oil temperature sensor: DegreesF = (ln(volts input) * -85.7136) + 191.576 Equation to calculate ATF temp for 996/996 all models 722.6 tiptronic: DegreesF = voltsinput * 255.2 - 245.6 I validated both of these equations against the temperatures read by Durametric and PIWIS.

POST 310 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20529384

@theprf Thanks for the response. Our systems are not that different except I'm using an Arduino to read the voltage and calculation and output the result to an oled display. I am confused, however, about your equation for the turbo engine oil. If I understand you correctly in your 3.0 volt signal you are saying (log(3)*-85.7136)+191.576 should equal about 97, and for 0.3 it should be about 294. when I do the math I get (log(3)*-85.7136)+191.576=151, and (log(0.3)*-85.7136)+191.576=236. I'm assuming you are using log base 10. Am I missing something??

POST 311Original post

I am using natural log, I should have written ln(x) not log(x).

POST 312 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20529898

ok that makes more sense. I plotted my your turbo curve along with my non-turbo one. Similar shapes with an obvious offset. I know my curve is only valid in the range of 100-300 degrees. Oil itself has a practical upper limit of about 260 or so. The turbo equation �blows up� (calculates to unrealistic numbers) at voltages less than 0.3v Anyway, based on this it seems the turbo does indeed require a different gauge calibration than non-turbo.

POST 313Original post

I only checked it up to 300F. The DME may not have accepted higher temps/lower voltages. I have had the oil in my VW up to 320F. The oil temp gauge on a street driven Turbo is totally unnecessary. The highest I have ever seen is 200F. Even on my track focussed Turbo the highest oil temp I have ever seen is 230F after a long session on a 100 degree day.

POST 314Original post

Quotes source post: 20452795

Hi @Coopduc , I'm interested in ordering a gauge pod mount model. I'm not able to send a PM, but I am a member. Not sure if I can receive one, but you could try. Could please you e-mail me at [email removed] ? Thank you! Erik

POST 315Original post

I got mine installed in my 2004 986 Boxster S and it works great!

POST 316Original post

Hi coopduc,i would like to buy the horse shoe gauge please. as a new member i can't sent private message. could you send me an email at [email removed] please? thanks a lot

POST 317Original post

It's telling me you're not accepting messages right now so can you please send me an email with price and how to purchase. Thanks. [email removed]

POST 319 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I a finally able to produce a display that closely matched the OE orange digits. I use a yellow oled with a single layer of pink vinyl tint overlay, future kits will include this display.

POST 320Original post

Quotes source post: 20566818

Great looking! Is this available for older (~1 year) gauge not yet installed? Like maybe return unit to you and have the orange applied or done? I have a horseshoe version like in your photo. Or some other method? Curious. YMMV

POST 321Original post

Same as Siberian14, I have one I got a few months ago, never installed, and would much prefer an orange display. Any chance of swapping it out? Also, I would not have a problem if there was a reasonable return fee involved. Thanks for coming up with this great and useful mod!

POST 322Original post

Quotes source post: 20567243

@ Coopduc And of course the subset to this question: Will you offer a retrofit for a pre-existing installation?

POST 323Original post

Quotes source post: 20567324

Where as those of us already installed could send you a USPS mail pre addressed and stamped envelope and if a fee (in cash) you might send precut ready to install proper colored film you have developed? Assuming we just press fit it in place? Thanks for your consideration and this great gage you sell!

POST 324 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

@Davy @siberian @dck47 @NYFlapjack2 I can provide a retrofit kit, but for kits already out there it is not simply applying a film over the white display. The new base display is yellow with a pink film. The retrofit kit is a new display with film applied, so just unplug the old display and plug in the new one, either for the gauge cluster mount or the horseshoe mount.

POST 325Original post

Quotes source post: 20567487

You have discovered (accidentally, I think) a way to make more money off of your customer base! Many people, myself included, are very happy with the gauges that we bought from you, but would be happy to pay more money for a plug-n-play upgrade that would give us an orange display that closely matches the rest of our gauges! I believe that you, sir, are a future billionaire in the making! TAKE MY MONEY, PLEASE!

POST 326Original post

Quotes source post: 20567487

Can you post a link or detail info on cost, probably not difficult to replace, etc to get a "retrofit kit"? Interested to get the orange one, or if someone wants a unused "white" unit, something like a trade-in option or something? Still interested. YMMV

POST 327 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

The retrofit is simply unplugging the existing display and replacing it with the new display provided. No need to completely replace the entire kit components. The new displays are $20/ea including shipping in the USA. I can’t use white displays and modify them to show orange, so to me they have no “trade-in” value.

POST 328Original post

Quotes source post: 20569773

​​​​​​​Here is an off-the-wall question. Since I have both a white and a orange display can the sending wires(?) be used to power BOTH displays? Splice another wire set for the second display into the main display wires? Possible? (Car not here, and uninstalled anyway, so I can't check this myself) I was thinking having the orange display in the horseshoe and mounting the white display back in the engine compartment somewhere. It would give oil temps while you were doing something else back there. It would save steps going back and forth rear-to-front, for "looking". Maybe convenient, dunno, but just a wild thought. Comments? YMMV

POST 329Original post

Got mine installed a few weeks ago and I can't stop looking at it. Looks great with the color matching the rest of the interior and its great to have just to keep an eye on oil temps. Mine hovers around the 190 to 202 when. Just cruising around. Highway driving at around 85mph seems to hover at 200. 10/10 would buy again.

POST 330 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20594056

Definitely possible, provided both displays are wired in parallel. Not sure of the practical applications of it, but who am I to say! Anyway, as a proof of concept, I wired up two displays in parallel being driven from one controller and put it in my test rig. ​​​​​​​

POST 331Original post

Quotes source post: 20594355

Do you mean for example: white and black wire going to the #1 gauge LED, the same white and black wires continuing to a second LED elsewhere? Or equally, a white and black wire with a parasite connection in the middle for LED display #1 and the end goes to LED display #2? Would 5-7 feet of added wire make a difference? Can the display take some engine heat? Just asking. As a side thought, maybe this is another opportunity for you, maybe sell units with 2 gauges with 2-gauge option ($) for _____________(fill in the blank) like me. Confession. I'm not good with magic electrons going wherever, I prefer a solid wrench. Just asking the question that my electronice "excellence" can understand. TIA for answer. YMMV

POST 332 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20594643

Using your terminology, it would be a parasitic connection from each of the four wires going to the second display. The tolerance of an OLED for heat in the engine compartment is a concern and would have to be tested. To me, it seems rather than a permanent gauge in the engine compartment, just the permanent wiring/ connector installation with a hand held plug and play second display for use only when needed may be a better solution. Better still, another rennlister (whose name I can�t remember) created a phone app to read oil temp.To me, that�s the best solution for a tool to use during engine work.

POST 333 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20595588

If the engine is cold when started, it will display �oil temp� until the temperature reaches 100 deg. After that the actual temperature will be displayed continuously. If the engine is hot when started, it will display �oil temp� for 5 sec, then the actual temperature will be displayed continuously.

POST 334Original post

Added question: Since the orange gauge has plastic overlay for color, does the "white" gauge have any plastic overlay? Meaning, nothing that would be adversely affected by engine heat? Well, maybe not so much affected, but still work if placed near fresh air vent or something, not melt into a useless lit blob? I don't have a smart phone, and really don't want one. YMMV

POST 335 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20596413

The white display does not have an overlay, but the housing is petg, good to about 175 F.

POST 336Original post

Quotes source post: 20594056

You got me really curious... Why have a oil temp gauge in the engine compartment,? if a beautifully crafted oil temp gauge was already installed in the dash.? What maintenance in engine compartment could one be doing that needed constant oil temp info...?

POST 337Original post

Hi! Would like to buy one. What to i have to do?

POST 338 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20605691

@9fftenja message sent

POST 341Original post

Last night I had my gauge go out - what should I check first? Maybe fuse or 12V at the cellphone power hookup?

POST 342 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 20653580

Certainly the easiest is to check the fuse and 12v at the phone connector. Depending on the car year the fuse is E8 or if your car is model years 2002-2005 the fuse is D10. Also, check for loose wires at the 2 white connectors going into the controller where the wire is crimped to the contact. Let me know what you find and I�ll send you whatever is needed.

POST 343Original post

Does anyone have a kit to install an oil temp gauge in my 996 TT? It's a 2001. thanks

POST 344Original post

Does anyone have a kit to install an oil temp gauge in my 996 TT? It's a 2001. thanks

POST 345Original post

how do i get your oil temp gauge kit? thanks.

POST 346Original post

Quotes source post: 20675319

Just DM @coopduc via this website. He's super responsive and DM is very easy.

This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.