Anyone in the Puget Sound Area with the SIR P260 Timing Tool Kit

I�m getting ready to replace the variocam wear pads on my 1999 911 Carrera. I would like to do it with the engine in the car (I know the hard way) but it looks like to do this you either need the factory Porsche timing tool or the SIR Tools P260 kit as the timing tool is slimmer than the other style with the **** so it fits between the head and the crossmember on bank 2. Does anyone have a set of these tools they would be willing to loan or rent out? I�m located in Kitsap County but would be happy to drive pretty much anywhere in the Puget Sound/Western WA area. Trying to avoid spending $790 on the SIR kit for a (hopefully) one time job. If anyone has this kit would be willing to help I�d greatly appreciate it!

I just did this job engine in so I�ll throw in a few things I learned. Cleaning all the sealant off was the most time consuming part. You can get the knockoff cam holdown tools on ebay which work fine. The standard alignment tools in the kit wont fit so I also got a 3.6 cam alignment tool that I cut down a little to fit the 3.4. You will need to put a wrench in the middle of the cam to turn it, no biggie. No need to remove exhaust header for bank 1 Do remove header for bank 2. Soak those bolts for a day or two beforehand. Mine had been removed before Bank 1 scavenge pump wont come out until valve cover is off so don't pry it out. Take note of pump orientation (mark it). Will need new orings. Don't forget to get the threaded rod and two nuts to compress the actuator (I believe the early actuators are right hand thread, check Amazon), and getting the pad with oring in the right spot is very important Be careful if replacing the cam sprocket bolts, the early two piece design has longer bolts. Blue loctite those. Loctite 5970 for sealing cam cover. Get a new exhaust manifold gasket and bolts, also the cat pipe flange has a gasket and three nuts. Might as well get new chain tensioners since they need to come out Let me know if you need more details!

You are brave. I would not attempt bank 2 in situ.

Quotes source post: 20665934

Thanks for the reply and the tips, it's helpful to hear from someone who has done this engine in as it doesn't seem to be as common, and I get why it makes access and some of the steps more difficult...I just would love to not have to drop the motor out of the car right now. I found a PDF of the engine section of the Porsche factory manual and there is a cam timing procedure for engine out and a separate section for a cam timing procedure engine in the car for both banks so it appears it can be done. I do have a few questions. How was your experience with the knockoff cam hold down tools (I'm assuming you mean the kit with the tools to lock the cams in place during cam cover removal, and the hold down tools to hold the cams in the head when the cover is removed) I've read some people struggled with the cheaper kits, but of course the much lower cost is attractive especially for someone who doesn't plan to do this job multiple times or on multiple cars. Also in my research I came across that info that the standard timing tool with the adjustment **** won't fit with the engine in the car. And I see why, there's no where near enough room between the back of the head of bank 2 and the cross member. I'm interested to hear more about how you used a modified 3.6 cam alignment tool and what you had to do to make it fit. See reference photo below to make sure we are talking about the same tool, but I'm assuming you mean the tool that looks more like a flat bar blade with the two "tabs" that would slot in the ends of the cams. I see how this could work as like you said you use a wrench (I think 22mmm right?) to turn the exhaust cam to adjust the position with the sprocket bolts loose so unlike the adjustment **** timing tool, the timing tool needed (to fit between the head and cross member on bank 2) would just hold the slots in both the intake and exhaust cam in line once the exhaust cam has been rotated and would then hold those cam positions while tightening down the sprocket bolts. Am I thinking about this correct? Is this the 3.6 timing tool that you modified to work? If so what did you trim, and what orientation would this go into the car to lock the cams in place after turning the exhaust cam to set the timing? Again, in my understanding the slots on the intake and exhaust cams should be in line with each other and parallel to the cam cover/head seam line so this would lock them in that position once adjusted with the wrench allowing the sprocket bolts to be tightened down locking in the cam timing? Or am I off base on this? Good info and point on the headers and exhaust bolts. Behind making sure the cam timing is correct, getting the exhaust and header bolts out is my next biggest concern, they aren't looking great on my car. Going to need a good soak and some patience. Already got new bolts and header gaskets in my parts list, good to know about the cat pipe flange gasket I'll add that. Bank 1 scavenge pump note is super helpful, and yes got the o-rings on my parts list already. I'm also planning on getting the rod to compress the actuator, did you find yours on Amazon as you suggested? I'll be sure to check the sprocket bolts, unsure if I have the single or two piece design. My car is a 1999 but not a "early build '99" build date is April 1999 but still unsure which it will have. Yes, already have the chain tensioners on the parts list, exactly like what you said might as well they are already out and are probably 27 year old originals... I appreciate your insight on this!

Theres only one slot and it is in the exhaust cam, no slot in intake cam. The slot in the intake cam is on the other side of the motor which is what you need to identify if you are on the correct stroke before you begin the work. Bank 1 notch faces out. Bank 2 notch faces towards crank. Yes that is the blade style tool you can get on eBay as well. So I cut off the portion of the tool that goes into the intake cam (not needed). Also, the tool is a little thick and I ground down the sides a bit so it would slide into the slot on the exhaust cam, and bolt onto the head at the same time. The intake cam timing is set when you align the timing chain links to the marks on the cam sprockets. The tool sets the exhaust cam, and you tighten the bolts with some blue Loctite. Don't forget to put in the scavenge pump for bank 1 before you reinstall the cam cover. Heres the real advice, you need to do this at U6 crank pulley position NOT OT. Reason is there is slack in the chain, and after you position the cams with the tool, pump up and put in the chain tensioner, position the cam sprocket over the cam so the slots are retarded, then advance crank to OT and then tighten the cam sprocket bolts. The bolts should end up close to center on the slots, but don't worry if its not perfect, you just dont want them at the ends of the slots. This will take up the slack and give you perfect cam deviation. Otherwise it will be off! Ask me how I know? I did the job twice� For Bank 2, AC compressor has three bolts that need removed and held up to be able to pull it out enough. Some different length extensions and a boroscope camera come in handy here. Dont drop any sockets (I taped mine on) when doing the rear bolt. Might think about getting a new cam position sensor while you're right there too. The Bosch version from FCP works fine. No need for the Porsche tax�. I drained the coolant for this to remove the coolant hose in the way (two clamps and done). Allowed me to try my new special hose clamp pliers (winning!) Then you will need to rotate the engine 360 deg before you begin the other bank to U6 position and verify the intake cam slot is in the correct orientation for the timing work (it will be slightly off horizontal because you are not at OT) Also for gods sakes dont forget to remove the alignment tools and crank pin before you try to rotate or start it�lol! The kit doesn't come with the bolts you need for the hold down tools. I will try to find the info for those. Heres my cam dev numbers now, and I would never drop the engine for this job�a lift is a must!

Thank you for the photos and the additional info, it is all very helpful. I like the creativity using the cut down 3.6 timing tool. It's unconventional, but if it works it works! The slots in the cams after more research make a lot more sense and which ones have it vs. not and the orientation they need to be in. I've been taking my time and doing my research/asking questions as I want to make sure I fully understand the process before starting the job. On the OT (TDC) vs U6 position, just want to make sure I'm understanding correctly. Did you pin the engine in this U6 position vs TDC for disassembly? Then upon reassembly of that bank do the procedure you described and rotate the crank the remainder of the way to TDC before tightening down the sprocket bolts on the exhaust cam? Also as far as you having to do the job twice, I imagine you had to do the timing procedure twice vs having to completely disassembly that bank again correct? What tipped you off on having to redo it? High cam deviation numbers still present? Any info on the additional bolts for the hold down tools would be helpful, again I appreciate all this info and great results! Those cam deviation numbers are nice!

Yep I did it the first time at OT and it was better but still had unacceptable dev values. Also had a little oil getting past my sealant job because I was trying to use as little of a bead as possible. Let that Loctite cure 24hrs before you put oil in it and don�t get sealant in the little oil channel in the cam cover. Use Jake Raby�s trick of using the old scavenge pump O-ring to fit into the channel to prevent sealant from plugging that up, then pull it out after you get the cover on.