How to replace hand brake handle ? (03 C4S)

Performance products has a carbon fiber hand brake handle and shifter **** for $125 and $175 respectively. I can do the shifter but how do you switch out the hand brake handle? Both mine are currently the wood finish. (ICK!)

You gotta take out the rear center console to get the e-brake. Do a search on the board for a DIY on installing the short shifter - in those directions, it will tell you how to remove the center console - and then from there you'll see the bolts holding down the e-brake.

Remove Rear Center Console Remove e-brake cable Remove 4 bolts holding it down Reverse

...or the long way Parts and Tools: * Replacement handbrake * 13MM socket wrench * T30 Torx driver * T25 Torx driver * T20 Torx driver * Two pairs of pliers or crescent wrenches * A flat screw driver for prying Steps 1. There are 11 screws that you will need to remove to remove the console and the center module under the dash. For all of these except two (under the ashtray) you will use the T20 Torx screwdriver. The two under the ashtray you will use the T25. The T30 is only used to tighten the screw on the shifter. 2. First you must remove the console and the center module. Work on the center module first. Pull forward and out on the colored panels on either side of the module and set them aside. 3. Pull out the two carpeted panels behind and on either side of the module. There are 4 screws (two on each side) that hold it in place. One in toward the middle front and the other is at the far back. Once these are removed, the module simply pulls out. Set it aside. 4. Started in the back of the module. Open the storage bin and pull out the rubber bottom. Under it you will see a screw in the center back. Remove it. Pull out the little coin holder thing in the front. Under it you will remove another screw. Then with a flat screwdriver pry up the plastic floor of the compartment from the back where you removed the screw. 5. You will see the back of the brake mechanism where it attached to the cables. There is another screw here for you to remove. 6. Then remove the ashtray. You will see two screws. Use the T25 screwdriver to remove these. Once you have taken these out pull out the module that holds the ashtray and houses the window buttons and seat heater buttons, if you have them. You will need to disconnect all of these. There are plugs that just pull out. You will also need to unplug the light for the ashtray. Put this aside. The plug for the left window is white and the right window is black. Under this is another screw for you to remove. 7. Remove the shifter. Use the flat screw driver to lift the bottom of the boot and then pull on the top of the shifter until it pulls off of the shaft. If you have a shifter other than the base shifter, you will need to use the T30 screwdriver to loosen a screw under the boot in the front of the shaft of the shifter. 8. In front of the shifter (normally under the center module) you will find the last screw. You need to also remove the plastic panel that is in between the handbrake and the drivers seat. It just pulls out. The console should now be free. 9. With a little maneuvering to get it around the handbrake, shifter shaft, etc remove it and set it aside. 10. The new handbrake is more than just the handle. It includes the metal base and mechanism that attaches to the cables that set and release the rear brakes. 11. Study the handbrake that is in the car. 12. Remove the plug that attaches to the button that turns the light on the dash on and off when the handbrake is engaged or disengaged. It is right under the handle. Push in on the white plastic piece to release a tab that holds it in. 13. There are four bolts that secure the handbrake base of the car. Remove these with the socket wrench. Two are regular nuts (driver's side) and two have tall shafts on top of them. The one on the passenger rear also has a clamp that goes over it to hold some cables in place. Remove the clamp first with the socket and then the tall nut. 14. Once the nuts are removed you can lift the handbrake upward although it is still attached to the cables. 15. The cables are attached to a sort of circular metal pulley looking part. One cable wraps under right and one wraps over left. Once the handbrake is free these cables will slack. There is a metal collar that goes around the curved side of the pulley to hold these cables in place. Use a flat screwdriver to pry it off to release the cables. The cable can then be removed and the old handbrake can be set aside. 16. You will notice a threaded shaft that points toward the rear of the car that goes through the pulley. It has a metal collar and two nuts attached to it. This is what is used to adjust the tension (engaged and disengaged) on the cables. It is very important that the tension be adjusted properly. If it is too tight the brakes won't fully disengage when the handle is lowered. If it is too loose, then the brakes will not hold when the handle is pulled up. It is important and I want to make sure that you are paying attention. Study the amount of slack and tension on the old handbrake before removing it so that you are familiar with the way it looks. Also made sure the amount of threaded shaft sticking rearward beyond the last nut on the new handbrake matches the amount that has been sticking out on the old handbrake to estimate the proper amount of tension. When the handbrake is pulled up (engaged) the cables should be tight. When released they should have some slack. 17. Reattach the cables to the new pulley and clamp the collar on to secure them. 18. Then adjust the nuts in until there is proper tension (in both positions) on the cables. Then using the pliers or crescent wrenches (one on each nut, tighten them in opposite directions to ensure the pulley position is secure. On the factory unit, they have marked the nuts with what looks like nail polish. They give a reference point to the position of the nuts when they were first put on for future adjustment. You may want to put a magic maker line on the new nuts for the same reason. 19. There are two blue clamps (threaded) that you will need to remove from the old handbrake and move to the new one. They are needed for the screws that attach the console. 20. Make sure that the new handbrake does not scrape against the side of the console as it moves up and down. If it does, it can tear the leather on the lower part of the handbrake. File the plastic on the side of the console that surrounds the handbrake, if necessary to prevent this. 21. Now just follow all of the above procedures in reverse to finish! 22. Afterward test the dash light for the parking brake, the windows and seat heaters and the ashtray light to be sure that everything is working again.

That price seemed cheap so I checked out Performance products online catalog. The referenced part does not consist of the entire e-brake assembly, but just the handle, end portion. Can this part be removed without removing the entire assembly? This might be nice for John to know, but I have no idea. Mine seems attached pretty good.

Just did this on Sunday. Couple of additions to the "long way" description: It says, "Pull out the little coin holder thing in the front." Mine was stuck like a ***** ____. Use a small slotted screwdriver and pry it up. There's a slot at the bottom. Use a flashlight to find it. Also, if you have the Porsche security alarm, there is one more low voltage cable to disconnect. It's attached to a small switch that (as best I can tell) detects whether or not the rear console storage area is open/closed. I broke the switch b/c I didn't disconnect it before pulling up on the console. Also, expect quite a bit of flex in the console itself. I bet these things are installed before the seats in the factory b/c it's not easy to maneuver it around the existing e-brake, in between both seats, over the shifter, etc. I had to bow it pretty seriously to get it back in place. Lastly, the four bolts that hold down the e-brake. You can access three easily but the fourth you will need to (1) disconnect the tension cables and (2) pull as far up on the brake as you can so you can get a socket wrench under there. If you follow the order above, you'll be fine, but at first I thought I was screwed b/c I didn't have a 13mm open-end wrench...

Forgot to mention: I have an '01 C2 Cab. Don't know if anything's materially different for '03 CS4. Good luck.

Scott is correct. I just want to replace the handle. Does this require removing the entire e-brake assembly? I do know how to remove the rear console.

Has anybody found these handles cheaper, mine is worn too. I have all black, but i want to start going the route of silver accents..... How much?

You should be able to remove/replace the console without having to bend or bow it. Make sure you remove the panel that is on the side of the console by the e-brake handle. Then recline the passenger seat all the way back. You should be able to lift the the back end of the console up and over the passenger seat without much trouble. I have done this twice and did not need to "bend or bow" the console to get it off/on. FIY.

I looked everywhere for how to do this for a 996 and as hard as it feels, the front handle really does just slide off. There are 'channels' that the cover slides on to on the handbrake chassis, so you can't really twist the cover to remove it, instead I gently twisted it side to side and then used some plastic trim removal tools to ease if forwards by levering against the body of the handle where the two join. Here's a photo to help!

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Sorry bad wifi, your image loaded! Was there any glue holding it on? Did you literally just slide it off with force?

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Yes there is definitely some glue holding it on - the one in the car literally came off with a bit of pulling, whereas the spare one that I am using as a donor took quite a lot of work with the trim removal tools for the handle to come loose Here's a picture of that one showing the 'grooves' and bits of epoxy / glue - HTH

Thanks for that, I tried pulling on the handle but it wouldnt budge! Guess ill give it another shot

It takes ALOT of force to break the glue bond. You will need to try to wiggle it side to side to help break the bond. Considering how much force is needed, I had to use a vice grip, which WILL damage the handle, even using a towel as a barrier. I had a much easier time removing the assembly and then trying to get the handle off on a workbench. I have the wood handle and took it off to refinish in gloss black. Good luck

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Thanks for that, I'll give it a shot

Oh, by wiggle, I meant twisting the wooden handle .

Back to this for a minute - is the tequipment silver script removable? I've got two handbrake assemblies and i'd like to mix and match the parts to make one really nice one. Currently the leather is good on one and silver script part is good on another! Ahh the pedantic enthusiast life... This is what i'm referring to (the script metal piece):

Yes, the silver part will be separate from the hand grip itself.

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Thanks Jim, would it be best to try and pull the silver part off or remove the entire handle section then take it off?

The silver part cannot be removed without removing the grip. They will come off together and must slide off the shaft.

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Thanks Jim I'll give it a try!

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Any more tips for handle disassembly? It would help with restoration. Removing the grip looks like a bear. Once off is the silver piece just glued on?

Just to follow this up - I never pulled this off. I just bought one in better condition and left it as is. It's just too difficult to do without the possibility of destroying it.

You can heat up the handle with a heat gun to soften the glue. I did this with my second handle and it slid off.

that sounds that sounds like a great idea. I was wondering about heat. Where is the glue concentrated? I will Target that area. Looks like there might have been some over the top but I'm not sure based on your photo.

Imagine a skinny metal shaft running through the middle of the handle all the way to the button. The handle and the metal PORSCHE part are all glued to the shaft. When heated, it should soften the glue enough to slide the handle off the shaft. The metal part will then come apart from the handle. I actually put mine in an oven to soften the glue. Slide right off. But be careful not to accidentally melt anything ... just saying!

And, if you don't mind it, can you go back and retrace what exactly happened right up until the part where it" came right off"? Like were you twisting or straight pulling or using some kind of mind energy that might have preceded the moment where the grip came loose? And, how tell me how hot it was. Warm clear through or too hot to touch, Etc.

ok. Thanks Jim. That's what I was picturing. In the oven until too hot to touch? And then slid right off as in didn't even have to really pull or had to grit your teeth a little or did you get medieval?

Here goes nothing. Oven is on. 425� ought to do it.

Too hot!!! Do it on low heat.

It slide off like butter, but you will be melting plastic at high heat. Do 200

Take it out often and try pulling it. Do not leave it in there and pull it out. You need to constantly monitor it to make sure you are not melting anything. At 425, you ARE going to melt something ...

yes, I was just kidding. Wanted to see if you were paying attention. I did a bit of 275 briefly but so far no luck. Good to know that it could come off like butter because that's not what I'm getting. usually when I have to work this hard it means I missed a set screw or something.

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Lol. No screws. It is all glue. Keep at it. It does come off. I refinished my wood handle in gloss black. Looks great now.

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well, the leather came off and the plastic is rotating a little bit but it's the metal Porsche tjat seems pretty firmly attached. Must have been use extra glue Day in Germany that day.

If you had a heat gun you could heat up the metal part without worrying too much about the rest of the handle.

Is it attached separately? Sounds like it might be.

It is, but still needs to slide off with the rest of the handle.

Pretty sure you'll need to take off the button before it all slides off

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Which button are you referring to?

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The silver one you push to release the hand brake

Tell me how it is attached. Maybe a slip fit. Just pull it out?

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Doesnt' look like he removed the release button here.

No you don't take it off first. Any luck?

Fair enough, I took the button off - seemed like it would make it easier. Guess not!

It doesn't look like the release button should have any effect on sliding the handle and emblem off of the shaft. I'm going back to the oven for a another go-round. On the bright side, we are in a new house, and I'm learning how to work the oven and timer. So there's that.

..... From what I've seen so far I took the easy route and just bought the wood hand brake.

it it does, indeed , slide off. And, in addition, it appears to have been use a ton of glue day on the assembly line when they built this one.

The wood one looks great. I need a different look. Not quite so civilized.

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So next stop, learn to sew and apply materials to interior components.

Cool - nice work I saw just the silver piece for sale once on German eBay - unfortunately it's not available as a separate part which would be really handy as most get scratched up by (what I assume) is peoples rings etc.

Glad you got it off

Just for anyone reading this, for posterity. I just finished doing this and the trick is hot water. Just boil up a good sized bowl of water, stick the handle in it and let it soak for a couple of minutes. Mine, after half a day of trying other ways, ended up slipping off with hardly any effort. Obviously the glue they used lets go at something under 100 degrees C. and my grip was completely undamaged. ...for posterity... Cloggie

Great idea! I need to replace/refinish my E brake handle this winter and will use the boiling water trick! Many thanks Cloggie!

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Going to try this tip and we're now in 2022, thanks for posting!

Wonder if that metal (plastic) Porsche part can be polished to get the scratches out?

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I was going to try sanding it to get the scratches out, gradually working my way to 1000 grit and then polishing.

Ok so put the handle in boiling water for a couple of minutes. Still cant get it off tried using a plastic body pry tool but ended up putting a small crack in the carbo. Then I gaveup. I am not a weak guy

Bumping the thread, anyone know if the silver part can be removed with a heat gun without taking everything else apart?

Bumping this old thread - just got in a used replacement brake ***'y from RedLine (not Rennline) - wooden handle w/ the silver logo. Will be removing the beige leather and spraying to match exterior / center console (Orientrot) Per suggestion above - I stuck upside down in a quart container of boiling water for about 15 minutes - entire handle slipped right off. Glue could then be easily scraped off. The silver part came apart also. Anyone know what type of glue works well for re-assembly?