Rejex Prep (or other advice ?)

All, My car detailing has been a wash and wax with Kragen Zymol cheap stuff. I would like to do something better. I have a 2001 seal gray C4. I did a search for Rejex and lots of folks seem to swear by this. How do i prep the surface for this treatment ? Wash with Dawn to clear off the wax... then what ? Ive no clue what a clay bar is or how to use one ? I dont have a whole day to spend so the "quickness" of Rejex appealed. Do i need a polish/cleaner of some kind.? It will all be done by hand so i dont want to have to go over things many many times. The paint looks pretty good, but i'd like to make it much more glossy. Am i on the right track ?

I don't spend allot of time cleaning my car these days so I have like to work quickly. No more than 20 minutes for a quick detailing. But like any professional detailer will tell you you have to at least once put in a proper preparation by removing the not so visible oxidation/pollutant accumulation your 2001 has picked up in five years. This one time prep session will triple your more frequent detailing results. I would suggest trying Finish Kare's decontamination kit first or doing a top down clay bar followed by another wash to remove any dislodged ferrous particles and oxidation. Finish Kare's decon kit gets into the swril channels to pluck out contaminants, claying just removes them from the top surface. Maybe a once over with a swirl remover like Poorboy's SSR1 since your color is on the dark side of Silver. As far as polishes and sealants all of the boutique brands will give you an excellent result. I've tried Rejex and it did a good job but I personally wasn't blown away enough to reorder. I like a slightly more concentrated formula and others are much easier to remove than Rejex. Anyhoo I defy the average enthusisast to pick out a car that has been polished and sealed with Klasse, Poorboys, Menzerma, Werkstatt, Optimum or Zaino. It would take a very very trained eye to tell the difference. Personally, I've started using Werkstatt prime polish and acrylic Jett trigger sealant for that seasonal session. Very small amounts produce a nice gloss. For monthly waxing and weekly boosting I'm a big fan of the FK line and their anti-static/dust repelling qualities. I don't detail between washes but after a wash I use the FK 425 spray to boost the wax reflection and for less frequent monthly/bi-monthly waxing I use either Optimum SPray Wax or Finish Kare's Pink Wax. Basically ALL boutique brand paste waxes due an excellent job. But since using the FK quick sprays (post wash) I've noticed the car stays cleaner longer and rainfall actually keeps the car clean as the soils drip off the car due to the teflon like finish of FK 425 and FK146. From yet another brand If you want a very glossy finish I would try Dura Gloss Aqua Wax its only $8 and give one of the glossiest finishes I've seen on silver and grey. I would top that with FK 425 as I got allot less dust in the days following then just leaving the Aqua Wax bare. p.s. I just placed an order with detailcity.com they give a 10% discount if you sign up for the newsletter. Saves you some nickles on shipping.

Since you asked about Rejex, I can attest to Rejex and its qualities, and that's why we sell it. I use nothing else on the Porsche. Wash the vehicle with Dawn Liquid soap to strip the wax on there now. Check the paint to see its condition. If it has a lot of swirls, you will need to prep it with something like 3M Hand Glaze and/or 3M Swirl Mark Remover. If you are queasy about this stuff, get a pro to do it. Once you have the paint in good shape, hit it with Rejex. It's very easy to apply and remove, and then leave the car overnight in shade or garage. Do the Rejex again after a week or so, then every few months.

Thanks Eric, Why would i be queasy about the 3M stuff ? Is it possible for me to screw it up really badly ? The Hand Glaze sounds gentle... well on the web site it does anyway. FinishLAp, Ive never used a clay bar... the Finish Kare stuff sounds pretty easy too... Is this all there is to it ? Thanks

Karl - using a clay bar is not difficult. If you can run a bar of soap on your body, you can use a clay bar on your car. Most clay bars come with a spray bottle of lubricant that you mist on the car and then you rub the clay bar on the paint to remove contaminants. If you happen to drop the clay bar on the ground, don't use it again because it will pick up particles that could scratch your paint. After the clay bar is used, your paint will feel much smoother. 3M Swirl Mark remover or 3M Finesse-It II are good products to remove swirl marks. Here is a link to Autogeek.net about the Porter Cable polisher. About a third of the way down the page there are 2 videos. The first video shows how to do "Light Swirl Removal" and the second on is for "Intermediate Swirl Removal." If is not that difficult to use the PC polisher and the results will exceed any amount of hand polishing. You could substitute different polishes, waxes, or paint sealants that you may prefer, like the 3M products mentioned above. Watch the video and then decide if you want do this. I would think with a little common sense, anyone could use the PC effectively. http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html Let us know if you have any questions, 'cuz we're here to help!

After reading some posts on the 997 board about Rejex im really confused. Someone said the sealants (like Rejex) wont stick to a Glaze because of the oils contained in the glaze? So should i avoid the 3M hand glaze. ? I dont have bad swirl marks... Would wash, clay bar then Rejex work ? I dont have a polisher and the paint is nowhere near bad enough for me to take big risks with me screwing it up.

You can apply Rejex over glaze, but the point is that the Rejex will bond to the glaze as well as the paint, so overall it will not last as long becuase the glaze will degrade and come off of the paint first taking the Rejex that has bonded to it as well. Most folks with paint that is in good condition will wash, clay and then appply Rejex, and it will look great. If you paint has a lot of microscratches in it, then it is probably best to apply a polish/swirl remover to the paint before applying Rejex. The Rejex will not last as long, but it will address the micro-scratch lines that show up in low sun angles and add to the depth of the paint.

OK, Last question, honest.... So this weekend im going to wash with Dawn, use a Clay Bar (Clay Magic at the local store).... do i need to re-wash now ? Then apply Rejex... leave for 24 hrs in the garage and then apply another Rejex coat So do i wash after clay or not ? Thanks for all the help with this

here is a post that lays it all out. This is my post on my Seven Steps for a Stellar Surface. enjoy

Gary � First let me clarify that I am not trying to be a smart-*** here. On the few occasions I have used glaze, it has been AFTER the polishing and before the protective sealant. However, I noticed you recommend applying a glaze and then follow it up with a final polish prior to applying a protective sealant. That is the first time I had heard of using those two products in THAT order. I would have thought that the polish would remove the glaze you just applied. Is that not so? Can you elaborate on this for me please?

A very appropriate and good question. The logic is that the micro scratches are first filled, then the polish levels out the glaze with the surface. Care should be taken in not overdoing the polish phase. It is sorta like using Lanka for filling in paint chips. First the paint goes on as a blob, and then is leveled out with the polish. I am sure that I will get grief from many of you on this, but it works for me. I should add that I use a red soft orbital polishing pad instead of an orange one to make the polishing phase very gentle. Does that help? I would also note that while this method may give the smoothest (and deepest) surface reflectivity, it is not necessarily the longest lasting application of Rejex. This is because the Rejex will bond to both the paint and the glaze, and as the glaze degrades and ablates off of the surface, so will the Rejex that is bonded to it. If longevity is the goal, then put on the Rejex first, then after cure time, apply glaze, and very gently level with swirl remover. But if you are not confident in your ability to apply the swirl remover (polish), then forego that step. Take a look at the surface in low angle sunlight after the Rejex and/or glaze to determine if swirl remover is even needed.

Gary, thanks for the additional info. I have not tried Rejex yet. I have been using Wolfgang sealant on my car for about 18 months. About two weeks ago I clayed, polished and sealed my car. I bought some P21s Carnuba wax earlier this week and want to apply a layer of that on top of the Wolfgang sealant. The next time I clay the car, I'll try some glaze prior to the final polish.

Thanks to everyone for the advice and replies. I washed, clayed and used Rejex this weekend and it looks awesome. I didnt do any swirl removal as i couldnt see any anyway. Now i may want to add some wax to the top to make it shine even more :=) Does the second coat of Rejex add anything ? The best part was to see my 3-year old wash his ride-on Boxster along side me on the driveway :-)

top the rejex with FK 425 after each wash and the Rejex will last three times as long. For a bit more "bling" $8 Aqua Wax Spray at NAPA stores (or online) provides one of the glossiest shines I've seen for such a low price. I would chase it with 425 to ward off dust rather than leaving it bare.

Quck question...My black 997 is brand new. It was waxed by the dealer and the paint is perfect. No swirls or scratches. I was going to use Dawn to strip the wax off, then apply two coats of Rejex. Is using a clay bar a must? I don't see how I have much oxidation to remove? Can I just use Dawn, then apply the Rejex?

claying would be a good idea not so much for the pollutants but for removing the sediments from the road. Those sediments blow onto the paint while moving and when its parked. A regular wash might not dislodge them since they can "stick" to the paint. but when you follow up your wash by rubbing on the paint to apply your rejex it will break those sediments loose and voila you have induced marring. Best to wash, clay before drying the car, and wash once again to clear away any remnants. I would encourage you to touch black paint as little as possible. One quick detailing between washes max. Get the best towels you can, brush them clear of lints and threads after washing, And look into using anti-static products.

Yes you COULD do just the Dawn wash and then Rejex... but you would be surprised how much dirt and other gunk a clay bar will pull out of the paint. A clay bar and lubricant spray runs about $15 and claying the car takes 45 - 60 minutes max. Clay bars are avalable at any auto parts store. Start at the top and work your way down. Do the lower 12" of the car last, because that is where you will see how much "dirt" the clay bar removes, even if you wash the lower 12" 2 or 3 times before you use the clay bar.

OK. So I have this dirt on a new car that just had the wax stripped off. I'll take your word for it. I have the Rejex and Dawn. I assume I can get the clay bar at a NAPA store locally and it will have instructions. Wash, clay, wash, rejex, wash rejex right. What do you mean my detailing? I usually wash the windows and use a CA duster in between washes. I try to go two weeks apart on the washes. Also, I use clean white terry cloth towels and cotton tshirts to do all of this. (lots of them so they are never dirty). Is that OK?

stop dry dusting. Try to never touch dry paint. Spray the whole panel and your towel and wipe in one long pass. Flip the towel after each pass. Whenever you touch paint you want to have maximum lubrication. With a black car you will marr the paint over time with a dry duster. The biggest culprit is drying the car. When you rinse the car before, during and after you want to remove the nozzle from the garden hose and use only a trickle. After you have washes raise the water pressure and flood the paint surface so that all the water floods off the surface leaving only a few puddles. Don't wipe these puddles dry. Buy a waffle weave towel (I use the poorboysworld.com) and blot the puddles in an up and down motion. THis way there is minimal contact with paint. as far as towels most pros use high end micro fiber towels (try not to spend more than $4 per towel by buying a dozen at a time). I personally keep two sets of silk bind microfiber towels for polishing/cleaning and another set(in a different color) for waxing/buffing. This makes the towels last longer and stay cleaner. I have a third set of less expensive polishing towels for wheel duty. p.s. Detailcity.com has a monthly newsletter that gives you 10% discount. I get most of my stuff from there. and If I had a black car again I would stock up on FK 425 spray.

Some of your post isn't making sense. No more dry dusting. Spray the panel with what? Then wipe with one long pass of the towel?

I'm sure these cars look beautiful when they are done, but whew, that's way too much aggrivation for my P-car.... it's a daily driver and I couldn't justify the effort just to see it get ruined by one drive to work in traffic mist. --Dale

I agree, I'm not obsessed with this. I'm just trying to get a basic sensible, simple, non time consuming process in place for keeping the paint nice and the heads turning. I have about 30 minutes a week for this.

I think he means using a Quick Detailer spray. There are various brands you can find at the auto parts store. Spray it on the panel and a little on the cloth and wipe the panel as indicated above. You should be able to do the entire car in 4 to 5 minutes.

Once you do the complete job, and apply the Rejex, you will find your weekly routine cut in half. I wash MUCH LESS often now with Rejex on the C4S than I did before. It makes the paint very slippery and keeps it easier to clean. JUST DO IT! And yes, we have it in stock if you need it (or more of it).

exactamundo. With the right products and methods a well prep'd surface comes clean in a blink. It doesn't really matter what brand you use Zaino, Rejex, Werkstatt, Poorboys, 1Z...they all produce nearly identical shines with differing prices,some varying durability and differing levels of required effort. But not using an antistatic polymer LSP (last step product) is really making more work for yourself if you drive the car a daily basis. here are a couple brands unrelated brands you might consider Chemical Guys Finish Kare FK1 #425

OK. I washed with Dawn, clayed, washed again, and applied the Rejex. It's setting now in the garage. Looks great and it's sooo smooth. So, I can't use my duster daily huh? How do I keep it clean between washings? My plan is to use a gentle car soap as seldom as possible and reapply the Rejex every 4 months. How do clean it in between washings?

Try washing with a no-rinse or rinseless wash product when you do wash or as an in between washes cleaning. I highly recommed it for black, its a more gentle wash if you will. Optimum No Rinse seems to be the leading contender these days, Quick And Easy Wash was the original. You can either pour one ounce of it into a bucket of warm water and wipe down the car with a towel or you can can use the recomended dilution ratio as a spray detailer. Its a sort of silicone that lubricates dirt right off the surface. Many high end professional detailers have been using it as a much faster way to wash a car and clean more cars,make more money. There is no need to rinse, just wipe it dry with a waffle weave towel (in one long pass). follow up with an antistatic spray and rainfall allows dirt to slide down to the lower portions of the car. I recommended FK 425 to another Pcar owner and he told me that grass clippings stayed off his car for the first time. it leaves a dewey like silk texture and will prolong your Rejex coat. p.s. my old car was black too, I know the pain..

OK. I'll get some Optimum No Rinse and try that. I like the idea of putting it in a spray bottle. Not sure what a waffle weave towel is. I live in SoCal so rain isn't the problem. It's either dust or salt air if I'm near the coast. You are saying to use FK 425 (wipe it on) after the Optimim? Who makes that?

a waffle weave is just a highly absorbent towel that doesn't leave lint. The benefit of a such absorbancy is that the car comes dry with minimal touching/swirling. For glass and canvas a rubber absorber type towel from Pepboys is the way to go, put don't use that on paint (squeaks are no good, means no lubrication). I have several of the poorboys brand waffle weaves which seem never to catch threads. Finishkareusa.com makes #425. Get a good spray bottle for it because its consistency is on the thick side and you want it to dristribute in as fine a mist as possible. I use the furry side of the micro fiber towel to spread it across the panel and then the short nap side to buff it out. It works very well on glass, dash, plastic interiors and on your wheels. I notice the dash stays cleaner when I have the top down. 425 is a last step product so you can clean the car with Optimum No Rinse and then chase it with 425. FK1 also make a product that's like No Rinse and 425 in one bottle called #146. It cleans and provides ati-static coverage in one step. But like most antistatic sprays it can't be diluted. I buy 425 and optimum no rinse by the gallon to save some money. I haven't been to a car wash or used a hose (other than to rinse my soft top or wheels wells) in since using No Rinse. http://detailcity.com/optimum-no-rin...-32-ounce.html

OK. I now have the Optimum No Rinse and the FK 425. So, to clean I spray my detailer's solution of Optimum on each panel. Clean and dry it with micro fiber towel. Then wipe with FK and micro fiber towel right?

And I thought I was spending alot of time trying to find a good Touchless Car Wash .......

I think I'll just let the boy scouts do mine.