Protective film or no protective film? That is the question.

Got my recently purchased 02 996 home from winter storage a couple weeks ago. having a blast driving it. Put more than 600 miles on it in the first week. Glad the PO saved it for me as it is like new with exception of many light surface scratches in the clearcoat. Didn't bother too much at first but now starting to get to me along with the fear of paint chips from the residual winter sand and misc pieces of asphalt kicked up on the sub-par New England roads. Thinking about trying to get the finish looking good again then have paint protection film applied. Can anyone recommend a good product to get light scratches out of clearcoat or should I just bring it to a good shop? Thoughts on 3M or other protective films? Should I just skip it and wear the paint chips as a badge of honor or protect it like its my third child.

As for detailing, you should check out autopia.com. It's a good starting point. Do your research on the exact pads to use and buffers, but I use 3M rubbing compound, followed by a polishing compound, followed by a Meguiars No7, the a coat of Pinnacle carnuba. Will look like glass!! As for the protective film. I just bought a car with it installed, after going back and forth, I've decided to remove it. The brand was venturashield, which I believe is now owned by 3M. As much as I do like the protective qualities, I think it's just too ugly. From a distance you can't tell, but up close it just looks a little silly in my opinion.

My audi did not have a protective shield. The front end looked like it was hit with an ice pick, by the time I went to sell it. I wasn't going to let that happen to my car. When I bought my C2, I immediately had the 3M venture shield installed on the front end 1/2 way up the hood and the mirrors. The Venture Shield has held up pretty well. There are some marks on the shield, but when I am ready to sell the car, I can remove the Venture shield and viola! it should be good to go. I am of the belief that the cost of the venture shield is much less than a respray. I am seriously looking to get a new truck and as I am very pleased with the protective layer on my car. and I will definitely put one on the truck. Today, my choice would be Xpel, ultimate, as the technology has gotten better and better. My .02

So now what are you going to do?

I would go with the film. Advances in technology have truly made it more durable and invisible and you will preserve your sleek "shark nose" appearance without getting the many, many rock chips you get otherwise from cruising so low to the ground, and at higher than average speeds (if you drive like me, anyway!)

Xpel Ultimate would be my next choice. I purchased my car with the front bumper, half hood, half fenders and side mirrors. The clear bra definitely is worth it . I'd even try to get the full doors done at some point; they are vulnerable whether in a parking area or in the garage.

I've seen some die cut clear plastic DIY kits on Ebay reasonably priced. As these cars age the investment in a professionally applied Clear Bra can be substantial.

Thanks for the input. I think I need to have a look at the newer films on market before deciding. My WRX has protective film (PO had it installed). Not sure of brand but it is thick and the edges are very noticeable. And every time I wax the car it seems I spend far too much time removing wax from around edge of the film. Probably wouldn't be that noticeable but its dark gray. Maybe on a polar silver 911 with newer (thinner?) film it won't be as noticeable. Plan to stop by a couple of shops this afternoon.

Are we talking about scratches where you can feel them with your finger nail? www.autogeek.net trust me. Easiest way to wax around protective film is to put a strip of painters tape on the edge that way the wax won't dust into it. Or you can use a quick detailer and mist that on your buffing towel as you remove the wax, that cuts down on dusting. Or you can find a wax that doesn't dust (tons of those out there too). Alot of protective films can be waxed over top of with no ill effects.

Quotes source post: 10400929

+1 on the Xpel film. You can call them up and they will provide you with a dealer in your area. I have some 3m on my car now and it gets the job done but its not new and clear like it was years ago so i will be replacing it with xpel once I get the car back together.

Quotes source post: 10400950

They are light scratches. Can't feel them with nail. Looks to me as though the car may have gotten quite a bit of pine pitch, tar of other hard to remove stuff on it and someone took to it with rubbing compound or something similar and scratched the clear coat in the process. There are dozens of maybe 1-2" square areas with these scratches. If you look at the finish straight on they are quite difficult to see. They become visible at an angle. haven't had any luck taking pictures of them.

Just spent all morning removing all my protective film. It was Ventura Shield (sp.) and the reciepts indicated it was replaced about 5 years ago. When I took it off, you could definitely see it was yellowed. I don't do a ton of highway driving and have a pretty good relationship with a local body shop where I get my bumpers done periodically, so I'm really not worried about not having the shield. I know I'm in the minority, but this was the first car I've had with the clear bra and I'm pleased to remove it. It just looks so much cleaner without it. As for your scratches, they sound totally reasonable, but check out autogeek.net as mentioned above. Learn a bit about buffing and detailing, you'll be glad you did!!

Ventureshield film installed a few years ago before 3M bought them is suppose to have lifetime guarantee against yellowing, lifting, cracking etc., 3M has since reduced the warranty to 5 years IIRC, however I wonder what 3M would do when an owner, like myself, shows up with the lifetime warranty printed on the receipt for the car?! Maybe they will honor it just one time. My current car has full front end coverage with Xpel Ultimate, it is almost impossible to tell even up close, I'm very happy with it. Some people say the stone chips as patina, but I call it road rash and would rather not have it by using the protective film installed.

Thanks aviography. Got a quote for Xpel Ultimate for $895. Seems a litle steep. The quote does not include cleaning exterior before install. Do you remember what you paid? Zirrah. Had a look at autogeek. Great site with lots of DIY videos. Thanks for the link. I plan to tackle the job myself first warm weekend in May. Thinking Pinnacle Swirl Remover #2 or Meguiars Mirror Glaze #9 Swirl Remover is appropriate for the light scratches in the clear coat. Do you have any experience with these or similar products? Want to make sure I don't get something too aggressive. Can anyone recommend good entry level Porter Cable polisher? I am looking at the Porter Cable 7424xp as it seems reasonably priced for a dual action polisher.

Is that FULL front end coverage, i.e. not just front half of the hood and fenders, and with ALL film edges tucked under panel lines? If so then that's actually a good deal provided you can independently verify the worksmanship from other customers of the installer and see the work yourself. I've been told and bought a Griot RO polisher, see http://www.griotsgarage.com/category...r+polishing.do , very happy with it, get the one with longer cord, the pricing is pretty good consider how good the unit is and the cost of repairing damaged paint with a cheap polisher. I am far from being a polishing expert, check out autogeek or autopia forms for a wealth of info in this area. As a reference point, while I'm pretty handy and bought the Griot polisher and compound kit, at the end I entrusted the shop painting the front end of my car to polish the rest of the car, I just didn't want to screw up and mess up the OEM paint! That said I have polished small areas to take off minor scratchs and it worked out well, it's hard to damage the paint with RO polisher as long as you use the least aggressive compound and don't lean on it.

Do it. My Viper had 3M clear vinyl on the front and behind the wheel arches. When it was peeled off at 40k miles the paint was perfect. The windshield was badly pitted.

Our shop car has full coverage: full hood, full fenders, full doors, rocker panel and rear impact area. The lights, mirrors and door cups are also covered. In addition, I have ClearPlex on the windshield. But then if you read my signature, you'll know my bias towards these products in all seriousness, I got into this business because I believe in the protective film products. Any respray on our P-Cars can cause depreciation, not to mention the hassle. My local clear bra installers can cut the film a little longer to tuck the edges, so you don't see the edges and lines in paint protection film. As for which brand......well I represent both 3M and Xpel. The popular choice today is Xpel. However, I cut all my stoneguards, light protection, etc. out of 3M.

Our shop car has full coverage: full hood, full fenders, full doors, rocker panel and rear impact area. The lights, mirrors and door cups are also covered. In addition, I have ClearPlex on the windshield. But then if you read my signature, you'll know my bias towards these products in all seriousness, I got into this business because I believe in the protective film products. Any respray on our P-Cars can cause depreciation, not to mention the hassle. My local clear bra installers can cut the film a little longer to tuck the edges, so you don't see the edges and lines in paint protection film. While I do track my car, I do find that the fwy miles can be just as brutal on your paint and windshield. As for which brand......well I represent both 3M and Xpel. The popular choice today is Xpel. However, I cut all my stoneguards, light protection, etc. out of 3M.