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YOUR RESEARCHPainting the old bumperettes
Leading reported evidence
Recommend against a final sanding
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Suggestion
I would recommend against a final sanding with 1000 grit.
Leading evidence: 'Recommend against a final sanding' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend against a final sanding' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
It really changes the look of the car for the better.
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I've had the supplies for a while, but either the weather or my time have been lacking. Sunday the weather was right so I decided to get started.
I removed the bumperettes and dry sanded them with 400 grit to remove the texture. Then I washed them with soapy water, and then wiped them with acetone to remove any residue.
The next step was two coats of SEM adhesion promoter. This was followed my three coats of SEM flexible primer. Once that had dried for 3 hours, I wet sanded with 800 grit.
They are smooth as a freshly powdered baby butt. That's where I had to stop for the week.
This weekend I'll post pics, but I plan 3 coats of Article Silver with a light 800 grit wet sanding between each coat. This will be followed by at least 3 coats of clear coat and a final wet sanding with 1000 grit.
If I screw it up, I'll call Eric at bumperplugs.com.
I spoke with an auto mobile paint guy who has done it for a while and he mentioned the black rubber is very porous and even if he painted it and did all necessary procedures it might crack at some point?
Don't know if this is true or not but he actually talked me out of painting them.
I did mine myself with rattle cans and they turned out great. I wouldn't be concerned about cracking as these pieces don't flex and as long as you use the correct adhesion promoters and flexible primers you should be OK. It really changes the look of the car for the better.
The adhesion promoter fills the pores and helps prevent cracking. You also have to use flexible paint and primers.
I've painted plastic and rubber using the SEM products in the past and never had a problem. Even after multiple years of use and exposure. You just have to follow the directions and not get in a hurry.
I would recommend against a final sanding with 1000 grit. Still very coarse and the shine will be gone.
If you're not happy after the final coat of clear, better buff with a very fine compound and some microfiber towel.
JP
