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YOUR RESEARCHSlow cranking - battery problem or normal behavior?
Reported or suspected cause
starter in my case
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Reported cause
Slow-crank condition turned out turned out to be the starter in my case.
Slow cranking - battery problem or normal behavior?
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Leading evidence: 'starter in my case' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'starter in my case' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check connections' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The car jumps to life as opposed to providing those tension filled few moments that say "I'm about to be stranded in this parking lot".
Slow cranking - battery problem or normal behavior?
Install diehard agm (absorbed glass mat) battery yesterday at sears
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Update: Picked up and installed a Diehard AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery yesterday at Sears.
Slow cranking - battery problem or normal behavior?
Replace similar issue a few years ago
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I had similar issue a few years ago, replaced the battery cables in my '00.
Slow cranking - battery problem or normal behavior?
combination of things
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Suspected cause
Probably a combination of things that a new battery helps get rid of symptoms.
Slow cranking - battery problem or normal behavior?
Check okay
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Suggestion · Original poster
Starter and alternator ostensibly check okay but I'm still going to walk the current flow down with a multi-meter at some point and see if I have some points of high resistance.
Slow cranking - battery problem or normal behavior?
Test ." if the old battery fails
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Suggestion
Before I buy a new battery, I always remove the current one and take it to a local Autozone/Kragen to have it "load-tested." If the old battery fails, then I buy a new one.
Slow cranking - battery problem or normal behavior?
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14 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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I'm trying to figure out if I have a battery (or other) problem, or if I'm experiencing normal starting behavior for an '02 996 with about 5K on a rebuilt engine. Starting the car is always a "groan, groan, vroom" sort of sequence with those events happening about a half second apart, often accompanied by dimming dash lights when cranking. Not a great description but the car always gives the impression that it's on the verge of not starting, yet it always starts - so far. It has a few month old Interstate battery that's the correct group size. I noticed every time I went to check out the car prior to purchasing that the battery was hooked up to a charger which I assumed was set to trickle current, but I'm wondering if it was partially cooked due to overcharging. Battery measures 12 volts and alternator checked out fine but it "feels" like this battery is providing barely adequate current to the starter. Question: is this normal starting behavior for a 996? I've searched old threads and have seen slow cranking indicated as normal by some, and abnormal by others.
buy a new battery and check status of alternator cable. i had same problem until finally went to an autozone and picked up new bigger battery, it is easier to suffer additional 15-17 lb for battery than to have smaller one to discharge after 2-3 weeks on constant basis. you will need to move that plate where stock battery sits, it is easy enough to do.
Before I buy a new battery, I always remove the current one and take it to a local Autozone/Kragen to have it "load-tested." If the old battery fails, then I buy a new one.
Probably a combination of things that a new battery helps get rid of symptoms. New engine with old battery flys into a start. So I'd figure starter, engine condition, electrical contacts and battery probably play together to cause the dragging.
Start with the battery and go from there. If the battery checks out fine, then alternator, battery cables, starter all need to be checked until you find the problem.
Update: Picked up and installed a Diehard AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery yesterday at Sears. It's 800 cold cranking amps of fun (as compared to the 730 of the Interstate that was in there before). I've only started it a couple of times since then but the difference was substantial. The car jumps to life as opposed to providing those tension filled few moments that say "I'm about to be stranded in this parking lot". Starter and alternator ostensibly check okay but I'm still going to walk the current flow down with a multi-meter at some point and see if I have some points of high resistance.
Same thing here - the dealer put a new Mahle in my car when the original battery failed 2 weeks after I drove off the lot. That lasted about a year before needing replacement, and I went with an Interstate. Much better now.
