KONI Sport Single Adjustables installed and reviewed

Hi guys, some of you may know that I purchased konis for my 996 awhile back. I finally finished installing them. I think these are fairly new to the market (I don't know anyone else who has them) so I thought I would put the info out there. Price: I got them from Paragon Products and I think they were about $1000 total. Now you might say "why not just buy the RoW m030 suspension which also includes springs and swaybars?" Well that is a good question. For me, I already had the swaybars and I couldn't legally use the springs in SCCA A Stock autocross. The other thing is that buying that kit is getting harder to do; I was told that wait times on it might be as much as 10 weeks. Fit and Finish: 10/10. The dimensions are, as far as I can tell, identical to the US m030 that came off. No ride height change that I can see, and they bolt up without a snag. Install difficulty: I was quoted $1200ish dollars to get these installed, so I did it myself. It took about 12 hours of labor to do working patiently, using a chassis lift for the rear and just jack stands for the front and a good pneumatic spring compressor. The biggest hickup is getting the struts in and out with a spring compressor that you can fit in the wheel well. The front is easy enough by just unbolting the stop, stepping on the hub, and swinging the whole thing outboard of the wheel well. Anyways, I wouldn't attempt this without either a lift or a really good spring compressor you can fit in the wheel well, and you need a 7mm allen key as well as a 7mm wrench. Those are the only real oddball tools you need. Cosmetics: Yellow is always a plus. Ride Quality: I left these on full soft, as they come out of the box and as I recommend them for street driving. In my 325, konis made a vast improvement to my ride comfort. In the 911, it is not really that noticeable. I do think it cuts down on road vibration a bit and possibly eases out the speed bumps, but it isn't definite enough to bet on. To adjust the fronts, you have to remove the plastic covers in the frunk around the battery using a torx bit and then pop off the little plastic circle covers over the struts. The short koni **** fits fine. To adjust the rears with a bose-optioned car, you have to pop off the rectangular bose-emblemed plates around the sub and then uninstall the whole woofer unit using a torx bit. After that you will be left with the carpeted shelf that non-bose cars have. Over the strut towers, the insulation and carpet will be cut into little squares that you can pull out to access them. For autocross, I intend to just leave the bose sub at home. I haven't been able to really drive them yet, but I can say that even on full soft there is a definite reduction in body drama when performing quick turns or when hitting bumps. The car feels very critically damped for those engineers out there. This job also gave me a chance to use my longacre toe plates. These made it super-easy to determine what my net toe-in or toe-out was both on the front and the back, but I haven't figured out a way to ensure that the wheels are truly centered (I believe that is referred to as thrust angle in alignment terms?)

Well an update after a couple thousand miles and a track day. They are a marked improvement of ride quality on full soft and really transform the response of the car when stiffened up, although with an obvious increase in bumpiness. I was actually getting a bit of front wheel skipping across some of the rippled pavement at NCCAR's seemingly endless corners when I had the fronts set almost full stiff. Another product review is for my SWEPCO 201 transaxle fluid. It is worse than the stock fluid on really cold days (below 40) for the first 5 or so shifts. It actually is quite difficult to shift when you first start the car on a below-freezing morning. Once it warms up though, which is pretty quickly, it becomes much easier to shift than the stock fluid. It also increased the locking of the LSD in my car, which is a bit more tail-happy at very low speeds now, despite the SWEPCO having LSD additive.

Thanks for sharing. I'm thinking of replacing the suspension on the C4S - still riding on OEM shock and springs and they're OK but almost suck. The idea to save $1000-1500 doing the job by myself is exciting as it would pay for the wing I want to replace... I'm not a big Koni guys, I've been more often disappointed with Koni than Bilstein and Ohlins for instance. Can you develop the bumpiness aspect of the new Konis ? Thanks again

Sounds nice and thanks for the info. Staying in regs for some events is a big thing especially when somebody doesn't win and points at your car when talking to his friend the event runner

I think the konis on full soft make the car about as comfortable as it could be on the stock US m030 suspension. Konis are only rebound adjustable so the skipping over bumps I mentioned is what's commonly referred to as "jacking" where the wheel won't return to the pavement soon enough. Again, this was only on the almost fully stiff setting, which on a relatively soft spring like the usm030 was really too much damping. It made turn-in much crisper but I wouldn't ever drive like that on the street. I did the install myself with a bit of help but you can't really safely do it (especially in the rear) without a spring compressor you can fit in the wheel wells.

Thanks again for the info, especially the advice on getting a spring compressor.

Before I did my PSS10's I almost did the Koni FSD's. They had a great sale last year when they were first released, less than $800 for a full set. However, they did not have them for a C4, only C2's. Not sure about the Sports.

I've heard mixed things about the FSDs. They won't work nearly as well as the Sports if you're doing any sort of competition because they can't be manually adjusted. I think I wouldn't want them for a track day either for the same reason. On the street? Yeah they might be cool but I wouldn't want to be the first to try them over bilsteins or some more tried and true ones.

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Thanks for the write up. Its good to hear that they are adjustable w/o removing the shock. Did you have to cut the carpet to access the rear shocks? Did you run full stiff all around on the track? Have you done any autox yet? Looking forward to the spring to get mine too. Thanks!

fyi, tirerack has the koni yellows and the koni FSDs for 20% off. http://www.tirerack.com/specialoffer...p?promoID=K112 i feel dumb having ordered it from a 2nd tier seller to save a few bucks, and waiting 2 months to arrive when I could have ordered it from tire rack and had it months ago. oh well. my koni yellows are finally here. hopefully i'll get it installed soon!

finally got my koni yellows installed. only glowing comments for them. for autox, response is considerably better than US M030 shocks. for DD, even at my autox settings (rear full stiff, front 3/4 stiff), ride quality is considerably better, esp in the rear. perhaps the rear engine layout wears the shocks out faster in the rear? also, the rear shocks are adjustable without having to cut the carpet in my 40th AE.

Balefire, glad to hear you got your Koni's and they're working well. Now that I've settled on tires, I'm debating doing Koni Yellows also (given basically anything else kicks me into BSP unless I pretend the X73 is a factory option). I'm looking at about $1400 installed, but haven't seen what Tire Rack charges yet. It sounds like you really recommend them for autocross, which would be my main use. It's also my DD and me-plus-3-kid-cruise-mobile, so full track setup isn't in the cards. Any other comments on them?

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At my autox settings (front 3/4 stiff, rear full stiff) which I will leave until winter, my wife and kids have not complained about it once. I still find it hard to believe, but in my now 44k mile car, the konis certainly give a better DD ride than my OEM US M030 shocks. In contrast, plenty of others (wife, friends) complained about my RX-8 on full stiff konis being too bumpy. I also appreciate that adjusting them does not require a complete disassemble as it did in the rears of my RX-8. About my only disappointment is that they didn't lower my ride height at all (same with knfeparty). I was hoping for a few millimeters so I could gain an extra tenth of camber, but that didn't happen. Right now the price on konis is amazing from TR. And SCCA guaranteed stability for AS until 1/2013 at least. And our AS PAX is nicer this year than last. I'd consider jumping on the konis and getting something else in 2013 if we're not competitive in the class then.

The DD ride quality sounds very promising, especially not having to adjust them. TR has good prices on the rears, but can't seem to find the fronts. TC Kline is more expensive but they've got a full set in stock. I've never done just a shock change, so I'm not sure how much it'll help for autocross. Considering almost every serious (e.g. NT/Pro) stock class car does it, it must be non-negligible. I don't feel like the car is a rolly pig like my stock STi, but it'd be nice to be more stable in fast transitions. Ride height change sure would be nice (the stock C4S is quite high), but now I'm looking at X73 or coilovers and the associated BSP class. Staying in AS is probably the best way to keep myself from spending too much money on the car.

I went ahead and ordered them for my 2004 C4S: Koni Sport 8241-1274 for the rear Koni Sport 8741-1543 for the front $887 delivered from Tire Rack, should arrive by Monday. Quoted $382 by local Porsche shop to install them, and he's got it scheduled for next Wednesday. I might even have my new wheels and tires by then, which will make for a very interesting driving school / autocross on Saturday. Any other obvious things for SCCA stock class that are worth doing for someone not chasing a championship? Front swaybars, bushings, and endlinks come to mind. I doubt we'd want a stiffer front bar -- the reverse if anything. Driver and tires are the big gains and I'm (slowly) working on those.

I'm told a GT3 bar works well for AS. Keep in mind that a stiffer front bar doesn't automatically mean more understeer. Sometimes a stiffer front bar maintains a better front contact patch up front (camber challenged cars) and helps getting the front end more stable. It can also help plant the inside rear tire, although with a C4 you may not have an issue with getting the power down out of corners. You're issue is carrying around that extra weight.

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Good points. I've added it to the wish list, along with some quality time looking at tantalizingly tasty TRG toys. That and slowing down just enough that I can actually get on the power early. That pesky driver again. After talking to TR, I called up Koni to see if they had any more info on the part numbers, and their response was that they'd never tried a front unit on a C4S, so had no idea whether it would fit. Hence they list no product for the 996 C4S / TT in Sport fronts. I heard they've gone into C4S's before but have no real documention about it. I'll find out next Wednesday whether they fit. TR said I could return them if they don't (I'll still be out shipping, some labor, and a bunch of my time). If they don't, then it's stay stock or abandon the SCCA stock class and go X73, PSS10, or hang out on the For Sale section looking for something with a good price (like the JIC Cross's for $1500 that just sold).

sorry I never answered back, I've been taking time off of RL. Anyways as I guess you found out, to adjust the rears you just remove the subwoofer and then pull out those two little carpet squares. I leave the two squares permanently out of the car and leave the subwoofer at home for track days/autocross. I am interested in getting a front bar now but am trying to hold off on my spending. I ran the konis full stiff at that track day as an experiment but it made the car a bit unstable; it wasn't well planted. At my most recent autocross there was a light turnout so my codriver and I got to run the snot out of the car with like 16 back to back runs or something so I got some great koni tuning in. At least on mine, I found some definite gains. I started around 1 turn off of full stiff on all four corners and when I increased the front damping towards 1/2 to 1/4 I was able to help reduce the massive on-throttle front end lift. I remain very pleased at the DD ride quality. I adjust mine before and after every event but at the last event I forgot to re-adjust the rears and really can't complain. I am still terrible at autocrossing this car. I recently got the car re-aligned, bascially zero toe on all 4 corners, 2.2* of camber in the rear (an increase from 2.0* which was giving me pretty even tire wear after all of the autocrossing) but maxed out at like 0.7* negative in the front, which is abysmal. We'll see how this setup tweak helps me out but I could not keep the car in-shape and on line through the slaloms. It's just too fast to stay on the throttle and I can't keep the car stable when I'm not on the gas! I'm too used to just flooring it all the time from the old 944.

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I'm jealous of those prices. I paid more for the shocks and the install. The price I pay to be an early adopter I guess. I had no idea the front shocks might be different on the C4S. Hoping it works out for you. If they don't fit, and you want to stay stock, you could consider the US OEM TT shock or the ROW OEM TT shock which might be stiffer. Muffler bypass pipes saves 40+ lbs in the rear, is super cheap, and takes a newb like me only 20-30 min each side to change for an autox event. To save you some time, here's some sway bar info I compiled before I got my RUF Eibach FSB. C2/GT3 Sways Normal front 23.1mm x 3.4mm / rear 18.5mm x 2.5mm ROW M030 front 23.6mm x 3.6mm / rear 19.6mm x 2.6 mm GT3 front 26.8mm x 4.0mm / rear 20.7mm x 2.8 mm (5 way adj front, 4 way adj rear, end links needed) Eibach C2 front 24.0mm x solid / rear 19.0mm x solid (only rear 3 way adj) H&R C2 front 26mm / rear 23mm - rear only adj RUF resells Eibach sways (painted green) Gemballa resells H&R sways C4S/Turbo C4S/TT front 23.6x 3.5mm/ rear 21.7x 3.0mm GT2 front 26.8x 4.0mm/ rear 20.7x 2.8mm Eibach TT front 24.0mm x solid / rear 23.0mm x solid (only rear 3 way adj) H&R C4S front 25mm / rear 24mm - both adjustable TechArt TT front 23.8mm x ? / rear 23 mm x ?? (front and rear 3 way adj, end links may be needed) My alignment settings: front: zero toe, -0.4/-1.0 camber (ouch!) rear: -0.15 toe in/side, -1.5 camber I ran -1.0 rear camber last year to compensate for my terrible front camber and thought my car was too loose for my liking (It was pretty funny watching me drift my first autox in this car. My wife though vowed not to ride with me again.) This year, the increased rear camber, shocks, and FSB made my car much more stable, but it still has some agility. I found I could attack the slaloms with a lot more confidence. I still have a lot to learn though since none of my previous cars had any power, and if I slam on the throttle like I used to, i'll spin.

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I really hope the ride quality is good, as I'll be taking the car in 2 weeks on a 3-day trip with the local PCA, with my wife along (her first time in the car for more than 5 minutes). I'm not too worried, as stock springs plus soft(ish) settings really shouldn't make a bad ride. I'm looking forward to the shocks, alignment, and new tires. It'll make a big difference, I'm sure. The comments about slaloms reminds me of when I switched from my stock 96 Miata -- full throttle most places and plenty of time to drive precisely -- to the STi which can spin all four tires if you have some angle or are in 1st gear. I was lucky to have a 3-day Evo school within a few events of getting my STi, which helped immensely in learning to control the car (as well as autocross in general). I'm really trying to get back into the swing of it after time off -- it's slowly coming. For an example, here are the two TRG droplinks made for the 996 (grr, rennlist doesn't have tables enabled): 996 2WD: 996 AWD: OTOH, the standard Tarett links are identical for "all 996/997, Boxster & Cayman." But even their site is a little confusing as the trick extended drop links say "986/987/996/997/997TT" for one set and then "996TT" for another. I guess I'll find out if they work or not. I was just looking at the Koni USA page where it indicates both front and rear as "Carrera 2 Coupe, Targa, Convertible excl. Carrera 4, Turbo, GT2 GT3". (the 2800 series are only $1700 each on sale, yay). I really don't know -- stuff like that makes me think they will not fit, but then the comments from TC Kline and the person I spoke to on the phone at Koni make me think they might. The worst would be getting them in the car and only find out a week / month later that they're all messed up. Thanks a lot for the swaybar info. Tarett says theirs are OEM Porsche GT3. I believe GMG's bars are Eibach. The TRG endlinks look beefier than anything else, though they're also a bit spendy at $400 for the set, and Tarett's look decent at only $275 for the standard ones, $625 for the combo of GT3 bar + links. Unfortunately it does seem like the 996 C4S/TT is unique once again. TRG has separate part numbers for their 27mm adjustable bars for the 996/986 and the 996 AWD. H&R's 25mm is unique for the C4, C4S, and Turbo. I'm leaning toward the TRG's, but this is all for later, after the shocks are all sorted out. I was amazed at how much difference my STi had when going from the stock 224/194 springs to their (Japan-stock-only) sport 257/217 springs. I felt almost no difference around town and driving 300 miles to my first event with them, but the first slalom was hugely different. Much, much better than stock. Then I went street prepared with 600 pound springs on KW coilovers and ... well it didn't roll very much. For alignment I was planning on maxing out front camber while keeping it even, and whining if they can't get it to at least -1. Rear at (front - 1.0), though I've seen recommendations of (front - 0.5). An alternate plan would be to run ~ -2.0 rear camber regardless of where the front lands and adjust front/rear balance some other way (e.g. shock settings, tire widths, rear spacers (0.25" in to 0.25" out), tire pressures, front bar if I had an adjustable). Toe is the big unknown for me. I was thinking 0 toe in the front and a smidgeon of toe in in the rear, until I know what the car will do with the new shocks/tires/alignment. That should keep it reasonably tame until I get used to it, then I can think about whether I want toe out in front and want to adjust the rear any.

The advantage of zero toe is that it really reduces tire wear, especially when running aggressive camber like you're going to want to. You just have to be ready to countersteer if you don't run a smidgeon of toe in the rear which helps stabilise. I've spun the 944 so many times now that nothing sneaks up on me anymore so I went ahead with zero in the rear. The other "mod" I made was wider front tires. 245/35/18 is a MUCH better fit in the front. It also looks a lot better and doesn't rub on the BFG KDW2s I got. They aren't the best autox tires but they hold up well and were "cheap" for 996 tires. I stuck with 285s in the rear. The muffler bypass pipes are scca legal as long as they are downstream of the cats, but aren't they really loud?

I forgot to ask what hot pressures yall are running at autox. I am running 50 psi in the rear which is the max for my tires and 38 or 40 psi in the front. Rollover is not too bad

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I was worried that the OEM GT3 bars were too stiff even at the softest settings. Is there any benefit to sturdier endlinks if the sways don't require it? I used to try and keep the front camber even. On my current car, I gave up on the idea so I could get max camber wherever I could (-0.4 L / -1.0 R) and it tracks perfectly straight, but probably will have differential tire wear. They are obnoxiously loud. I drew a 97-99dB at the last autox. We'll see if it remains there in warmer conditions. But I love the sound of it. My kids do too. I'm running 42 front and 37 rear on my R-comps. Its probably not ideal though as I've been titrating tire pressure for roll over on my camber challenged car instead of tire temperature.

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It will depend on which tires you're running. My Hoosier A3S04's always needed about 10 pounds more than the Victoracers and V710s. I used to run the Hoosiers in the high 40s, Kumhos in high 30s. On my factory stock 996 C4S with Pirelli Pzero Assemtricos I'm running 31 front 36 rear hot pressures. I've lowered to that point to get rollover where I think it should be. I haven't used the pyrometer however, and I will freely admit I'm no expert at driving 911s. I'll get to relearn it all over again with the changed car and new AD08s. A tip for tire marking (which you perhaps already know) -- if you massively overdrive a corner (or two, or spin) then the rollover marks don't really apply for that run. That is, if you go in way too hot and keep on the throttle on the way out making the front wash out while the tires are screaming at you, well .. you'll probably see wear a ways up the shoulder, which doesn't necessarily mean it needs more pressure. In theory they'd have less stiction (there's a thread on sccaforums I believe where Andy Hollis was talking about how he'd replaced every bushing in his ST Civic and got nearly zero friction in the whole setup), but I imagine it would be extremely minor and depends on what the stock ones are like. The aftermarket links are also adjustable which lets you remove preload. If the stock ones fit and don't break, then I doubt for most of us it'd be much benefit. I had heard the GT3 bar requires a shorter endlink however, and really stiff bars can shear end links (for example this thread ). I agree on the worry about too stiff -- it would depend on the adjustment range. My alignment decisions will depend a lot on what choices I have. In my fantasy world I'll have one of those stock cars that can hit -1.3 or better even. Or I could end up at -0.9 even, like you with one side just unable to hit a good number, or maybe -0.4 max both sides. Eyeballing the current settings I doubt it's the last. We had a new person come autocross with us with what must have been a mufflerless 911. It was sooo loud. Not really pleasant for the courseworkers. Now I've heard louder (the hillclimb car with open headers, not to mention the Supercup and F1 cars), but it was just too loud for me, and I believe we have a pretty strict decibel limit at our new site. At least it was a good sound, not a BRAAAAP*stutter*PPP*backfire*PPPAAAP Honda sound. We have a BSP '99 996 with trapps -- good sound, reasonable volume (he could go a bit louder with no concern).

well I'm still running street tires because I have no way to get to the autox with r comps right now. BFG KDW2s. I started at around 40psi in the rear but had no rear grip and was getting lots of rollover and 48-50psi seems to be about right to keep it in check. I guess it's the difference in Rcomps and street tires but I can't believe you're running such low pressures in the rear. I used to run super-low pressure in the 944 but I had 2.7* of camber so I could run 25psi and it was fine. I also find it sort of odd that you guys are using relatively little rear camber. Also wow on the muffler bypass pipes, 99 db? They are cheaper than a whole catback setup though right? And you said they are bolt-on and you change them before/after the autox? I don't want to have to cut up my stock exhaust any.

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I'm running 31/36 on street tires. I started higher, but it wasn't even touching the rubber nubbins at the edge of the tread. It's a bit lower than I'm used to -- I don't think I've ever run a tire under 30 hot. My STi ran in the mid-30s on its street tires. The new tires on the UPS truck right now are AD08's since I can't deal with race tires right now (just no way to transport them, plus my back doesn't want to deal with tire changing). I've been hearing high 30s on similar weight cars, but the pyrometer and roll over will tell. Assume you had -1 front camber. What rear camber would you think appropriate? -1.5, -2, -2.5, or more if possible? I've heard a lot of negative comments about running really big camber differences front/rear.

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i can only guess that the high pressure needed to prevent rollover for your tires is either sidewall stiffness or an alignment problem. don't know for sure though. muffler bypass pipes are completely bolt on. i use a cheap o set of clamps which are easier to take on and off than oem clamps. I also reversed one set of bolts so I only have to remove 2 bolts instead of 3 bolts per side. I worry that in warmer temperatures / or different wind direction / or higher rpm range my car may blow higher than 100dB but my region isn't strictly enforcing the sound limits yet.

Drove to the shop today to put the Konis on my C4S. Drove back with them still in the box. The C4S has the swaybar attachment point fixed to the bottom of the strut spring perch, which the Konis lack. So if I put the Konis in, I'd have no front swaybar. I'm debating whether I want to: Call it a day and run stock, returning the Konis to TR. Look into getting an attachment point welded onto the Konis. Look into the Tarett extended droplinks which might clamp onto the strut and work, assuming it doesn't hit the perch. Look into using the TRG links that attach to a different position. I wish I had a car that parts actually fit onto, for once.

I'm not feeling any of those options. How about 5. run koni yellows in the rear. find another stiff likely non adjustable shock for the front (e.g. OEM turbo shock, confirm via part number). get a stiff front sway bar that's adjustable to compensate. I currently run my front konis at less than full stiff anyway. I still think you will have more fun, and spend less in AS than you will once you goto ASP or BSP.

Just got off the phone with Jeff at Rothsport . He thinks it can be done using the TRG endlinks in combination with a sleeve to make the clamps fit (apparently the stock struts on the AWD's are a little bigger than the RWD ones, so a sleeve would be needed to make the clamps work). However, he also thought the whole thing was far inferior to going with a PSS10 coilover setup , which is what he recommended for a DD/autocross car in the affordable price range. A few choices in the sub-$3k coilovers: PSS9, PSS10, JIC Cross (includes camber plates), KW, among others. Maybe I should have snapped up those Cross's for $1500 that sold last month in the for sale section. Edit: I'm pretending I didn't hear his option of running PSS10s and not telling anyone. Cheating in regional autocross is soooooo wrong.

After more thought and finding out PSS10 prices (about $2000 more than the Koni Sports), I'm thinking I will do one of: Return the Konis and stay completely stock, putting the money in the "GT3 fund". modified balefire suggestion 5: Koni yellows in the rear, completely stock in front. I'm leaning toward just leaving it stock. I was really looking forward to a Koni Sport setup.

Yomi, just read thru the thread and wanted to ask you if you've looked into AST coilovers. I have a set off my old 996 that come with camber plates, adjustable drop links, & Gt3 sways. I was a tester for them and only had them on the car for 3 months and a couple track weekends. Really nice set up that competes with JRZ, etc. They are now one of the spec suspensions on the Continental Tire Challenge series. If you are interested, I can send you a link to the place i bought them. There are pics of everything and the install on my car. Just let me know.

In one of my meandering sessions over at sccaforums I did come across AST, and they look great. I spent an hour or two going through Vorshlag's info. Oh, I imagine you're the Jeff whose 996 is in Vorshlag's album showing the AST 5100's in a 996 C2 . The price point is a lot farther out than I'm looking for, at ~$6000+ including springs and plates . They look fabulous, but my wife would kill me. The Koni Sports at under $900 were a whole different ballpark.

Yes, that's me, and yes, they are the 5100s. I was saving them for another 996, but since that will not be for some time, decided to sell them. I'm asking $2800 OBO for everything (including $500 worth of factory GT3 sways). I know that is a bit more than a set of Konis but for what it includes, I think it is a heck of a value. Anyway, no pressure, just letting you know they are available and almost brand new.

Another alternative. Bilstein HDs or Sports. They are supposedly stiffer than your OEM shocks, but they are not adjustable. Consider running Bilstein's in the front, Konis in the rear. If you need the Bilstein's stiffer, you can have them revalved for pretty cheap. You already have the konis in hand. Why not install them in the rear and give them a try. Still much cheaper than any other route, and just a fraction of the cost of leaving AS with an expensive coil over setup.

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Oh! Yes, that's a different story. I'll have to think about this tonight, as well as Balefire's ideas.

Sounds good, just let me know if you need anymore info from me.

what it sounds like you need to buy is some ski wax (:

Yomi, did you do any more thinking?

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I've done lots of thinking, including quite a bit out loud on the local car forum -- enough that the majority have told me to shut up and just do anything except keep talking about it. I'm assuming the ski wax is for the slippery slope I keep finding myself teetering at the top of. - The AST deal is a great buy, my biggest concern is that it won't fit the C4S (there are 3 separate PSS10 kits for 996s, for instance), and I don't want to deal with more custom stuff, especially as Vorshlag seemed to think Porsche interest was weak (they get much more love from the BMW folks). - PSS10s sound nice, and they have a set for the C4S including the necessary replacement end links. About ~$2800 new. I found someone selling some sweet Mode camber plates for $150 or so off the new price, which would be a great pairing with the coilovers (they don't work with the stock springs). - Install Koni's in the back and leave the front stock. - Hang out with the stock car and grab something used in the $1500 range if it floats by and is made for the C4S / Turbo. - Leave the car alone for real, given the Konis won't fit. After much discussion with my spouse, I think I'll do one of the last two. There is a chance she'll get a position in northern Europe next fall, which will mean selling the cars and house. If not, depending on how jobs work out, I'm thinking a swap for a GT3 or Turbo might be in the cards. She seemed remarkably unconcerned about this... Edit: I also wanted to try an autocross on the new tires and alignment before deciding. AD08's are much, much better than old Pirelli Pzero Assimetricos. 9th in PAX on a stock car and street tires, 4th if I use a 0.975 street tire handicap. Shoulder wear was not excessive though I did run high pressure (45/50 hot) to avoid it. This has made me less anxious to adjust the car.

Vorshlag is right about Porsche interest being weak, which I guess comes from people not wanting to try something new. I was certainly impressed with the suspension, but I'm only one guy and I can no longer show anyone how well it performs since the 996 is gone. I totally understand your concern with fit. I would only tell you to talk to Vorschlag about it, to verify. Other than that, good luck & have fun with the car!