My new lift (Nussbaum Sprinter Mobil II)...added more photos

Just got this German lift and it's AWESOME . Thought you may want to see some pix. It's built like a tank and it provides very good access to the underneath of the car. 4" drive-on ramps and no scraping with my stock suspesion. Raised the car for about 38" (and any height in between) with two 3+" hydraulic cylinders. It takes 25 seconds to raise to full height. Uncrating. IMG_7880 (Large).JPG 318ti on the lift. IMG_7888 (Large).JPG 996 on the lift. IMG_7937 (Large).JPG Still have ceiling room to spare. IMG_7938-clean (Large).JPG IMG_7939 (Large).JPG Pretty good access to almost everything. IMG_7940 (Large).JPG IMG_7941-clean (Large).JPG IMG_7942 (Large).JPG

nice. whatever it set you back, you'll save alot of grief and lift $$ working on DIY mods

Is it secured to the floor?

Very slick! My damn garage has a low ceiling

How much??

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That's an easy fix! Use a "saws-all" and cut to top of your car off.

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Maybe if it was a Honda ...

I am jealous!!!

http://www.bowlinent.com/lifts/nussbaum_sprinter.php Whoa.... I wasn't expecting $3000+. Did you get it for a lot less?

I am very jealous.

That is the nicest scissor lift model I've seen. Other I have seen do not have that wide base for the rollers to travel on. Looks very stable.

That is sweet. Great way to find more things to do on your 911.

Does it have any type of safty lock? Is 3 grand accurate? How much was shipping?

nice lift.... what is the ground clearance?

Periodically, there is a group buy for the EZCarlift on 6-speed; not as fancy, uses your electric drill for power, $1800.

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Thanks for the kind words, guys. Just to answer some questions. No and that's why I like it. I can move it anywhere around my garage plus my garage floor says "Do not drill and do not core" so that's not an option for me. The lift is around 1,000lb and it's rock solid even with the car fully raised. $4.3k delivered. I know I know...still have tears when I see my VISA statement... I wish...not the most economical solution for sure but then I don't see ANY other lifts with the same open-middle design AND build quality AND costing less. The other chinese clones have much smaller hydraulic cylinders. There's an Italian version but then German vs Italian I think I would choose German. Even the popular Bendpak one is not very cheap either. It's close to $2k and it doesn't have open access in the middle and its footprint is a lot smaller so with the car it looks like more top heavy. No but instead it has a safety hydraulic circuit so even when one cylinder is leaking or a single line is cut (each cylinder has its own hydraulic line), the other cylinder will still hold the car in place. It also has a limited rate lowering valve so even if the cylinders fail, the lift will not slamp down but would rather lowered slowly. You can always place a jack stand under the pivot point of the scissor to support it further if you wish. Price is $3.8k + $500 shipping to the door (residential). 4" and I can drive my (stock) 996 on it without extra ramps. For lowered suspension, I imagine you could just put a 1~2" planks before the built-in ramps.

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gota link? Never mind it came right up in a search. I'm torn, I like the ez lift because you can use a crawler all the way under. But the Nussbaum seem higher and better built

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Can't agree more!! Plus I have other cars to work on too so I hope to broaden my general car wrenching skills

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OUCH!!! Damn, I should have kept my mouth shut! Touche!

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Go to 6-speed, click on groupbuy -- about the 3rd item down or go direct to: http://www.gotogroupbuy.com/488/EZ-Carlift.aspx The first round they sold 60 of them. Later group buys have been smaller -- but people seem to have been satisfied. Again, it is not as nice as the one discussed in this thread....but it doesn't cost as much.

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FWIW, I considered that lift too but I ruled it out because: - If you need to work on multiple cars with different track widths, you need to assemble the lift with different cross spacers. For me, one of the reasons to get a lift is convenience so I can save time and elbow grease to jack up the car. - 26" may or may not be high enough - 4400lb capacity won't work for my SUV (or most SUVs for that matter) - The whole lift is only 170lb so I can't justify the $2k price with such simple constrution. It doesn't even come with a motor! Having said all that, I'm sure there will be use case given the right (lowered) price.

Those options are all pretty expensive, but I spose you do what ya gotta do.... I believe my Worth two post, 6,000# lift was prox $1,800, delivered.

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Yea unfortunately, but due to concrete restriction (no drilling), low ceiling, and limited garage space, a two post is out of the question.

That is one of the best looking low rise lifts that I have seen. I saw these while instructing at Viper Days, Archer track support used them: http://eagleequip.com/Merchant2/merc...ory_Code=LI-LM Much lower $$, but they don't look as nice or have as wide a base, but they worked well on the Vipers. They are having an event in two weeks, I plan to look at the set up again and try for fit on my 996.

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Post tension slab............ I'm in the same boat

I hate being under a car, with out some kind of Mechanical safty lock, that I can see and put in place my self, Its not for me. Maybe my education on hydrolics is lacking. But I need an actual safty lock.

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Kyle, you can always add your over-engineered engine support to it as a safety mechanism BTW, kudos to your IMS retrofit job and I think it should be the thread of the year! I enjoy it a lot. Back to your point, it concerned me at first but then I understood more about the hydraulic safety system that each ram has it's own hydraulic circuit and it's designed so that if one ram fails, the other ram can still hold up the car. More detailed explaination can be found here in post #36 https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=32590 Dutchcrunch explains it a lot better. The concept is similar to the two independent brake circuits in our car (diagonal pairing of the brakes) that even if one circuit fails, the other one will still stop the car albeit longer stopping distance. The other way to think about it is the second ram is really a redundant component as far as holding the lift in place and given that both rams failing at once is extremely unlikely, I think the risk is pretty small.

the risk is likely very small or the mfg wouldn't have taken the short cut. Even my dual cylinder, cross cabled, two post lift has mechanical safety locks though. Best of luck with it!

Gretch, the difference is this lift has a solid torsion bar that is completly solid and ties the two side together. on a two post lift you have to have safety lock as if one side fails the other can not hold the car up by itself and eventually the car will come down.

And it jacks up an MDX like it's a piece of toy Recent actions include x74 install, engine cleaning, oil change, and timing belt change on an Audi A4 1.8T. Sure there will be lot more coming... IMG_8894 (Large).jpg IMG_8895 (Large).jpg IMG_8896 (Large).jpg IMG_8898 (Large).jpg IMG_8899 (Large).jpg IMG_0272 (Large).JPG

Me want !

Looks like about 50% of the weight of the 996 was hanging off the back of that thing. PASS!

That thing looks pretty well built, but scissor lifts always scared me. There's so many of them out of china that are downright dangerous. I went a much simpler route and got a Kwik Lift from www.kwiklift.com . I feel much safer under it. Next house will have a 2 post lift, but that's another story.

50% of the weight of a 911 is just aft of the door. a 911 on this lift is solid, rock solid. when you have the car up and push on it it does not budge, you can even open the door and get in and its solid. would not trade mine fo anything else in its class. this lift is beefy that unless you could see it in person you do not see it. over- engineered rams so that one side could support load in case of failure. this lift does not even strain to lift a vehicle within its weight lifting capacity. one cannot judge a peice of equipment till they seen and used it in person. we are talking 1/4 steel and a solid torision that join the two sides together. what i like the most is in case of a problem with lift i will always be able to get my car down without any additional equipment like large floor jacks ect and even if the power goes out. that in itself is a great feature. full under carrage access and able to do full tire removal is a definate plus. man you do not know what your missin.

Dutchcrunch is right on (Hi, Dutchcrunch!). The following photo shows the center of gravity of the car due to the 40/60 front/rear distribution. As you can see, the CG sits right on top of the cross pivot point of the scissors. Drawing1.jpg

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I won't buy a lift made in China for sure. One big advantage of this Nussbaum scissor lift is its base is actually WIDER than the car, not like other scissor lifts. So it feels extremely stable with the car up in the air. Your Kwik lift looks very simple and nice. Just curious, when you work on your wheels/brakes, is there a way to elevate the car from the ramps? Oh, what's that BMW flag doing in a Porsche garage?

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Yeah, your not the first person to give me a hard time about the flag. The poor bimmer has been sleeping outside lately. And yes, there is a way to elevate the car on the lift. It has a cross member which slides down the lift and can be positioned anywhere along it. You can place a jack on it to lift up one corner of the car, two corners, or if you have two cross members, you can lift the entire car off the lift. It's definitely low tech, but that's one thing I like about it. I can be tugging an engine into place with a hoist, a winch, and a huge crow bar and don't have to worry about it tipping over. It's no different than having the car sitting on the ground.

They should have made a bar that lays overtop (perpendicular) to the bottom cross members that had several slots in it so that it would "click" on the slots as you raised the car/truck then when you have it at the height you can lock it into a slot and have a physical failstop.

Gents, What is the electric power requirement for the Nussbaum Sprinter? Do you have a pic of the plug handy by any chance. If I am correct it does require more than 120V 1 Ph. Much appreciated. L

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Welcome to Rennlist! It needs a 220v 20amp rating outlet i.e., you have to put the two 110v circuits in your house in series (with a 250v 20A circuit breaker installed in the panel). I use a plug similar to this one. Spec: NEMA 6-20P Hubbell-5466C-250V-20A-nema-6-20P-plug-lot-of-10-ea-picture.jpg

Many thanks Ahsai. That's very helpful. I am in the process of getting one. A bit on $$$ side, but good things don't come cheap, right? Mind you shipping and brokerage adds to my cost quite a bit. I found your post very informative and well documented. Pleasure reading! Cheers, L

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You're welcome! Agree it's a bit pricey but it's worth every penny of it. Every time I use it, I thank myself

Thanks, I got it all figured out. So, the lift came with the plug at the end of the power cord or just bare cord and you had to install your own 6-20P plug? Cheers, L

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It's the latter. PM me if you need the user manual. I've translated it into English using google translate. Don't forget the lift is shipped dry and you will need to add AW32 oil, available from NAPA (they come in 1gallon containers. You need about half of it and the rest for oil change maintenance later).

Thanks. You have PM.

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That looks like a good lift. Is it the short rise version on their site? Also, I just realized that you cant raise the car without the wheels attached, right? What if you want to do a suspension swap?

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Please see post #37.

The "net" lifting height is, according to available to me literature 880mm. That is 982mm overall height extended less 102mm ramp height. Imperial minds need to convert to inches. So, it qualifies as short rise for sure. As to rising the car with or without wheels attached, you have to drive in on the lift first (with your wheels attached, preferably), support your car (stock lifting points) using four urethane blocks, rise your car and then remove wheels, suspension or whatever else your soul desire. Google Nussbaum sprinter in PDF format and you will see more pics and dimensional info.

So, it finally arrived in my garage last Friday. Took me a day to unpack, and set it up. I did it all by myself, however I would not recommend it unless you are like I and willing to use a long bar, floor jack and a number of other tools including hammers and stuff... You will need 8 liters of hydraulic fluid and a 240 V 6-20 wiring and a 6-20 plug since the cable on Nussbaum lift comes without any plug. Just bare wires. Post #44 is not entirely accurate, you will need just over 2 gallons of hydraulic fluid. I used just over 8 liters to be just under max. mark on the dipstick. First impressions: I was hoping to be able to lift my car(s) a bit higher. Well, other than that it's quiet, smooth and nicely finished. The manual is in German, but you don't really need much. All straight forward. Fill fluid tank, attach power plug and enjoy. Overall, quite happy. Cheers, L

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Congrats! Pics or it never happened

Here we go...

Looks nice but please be careful. Hydraulic lifts are not considered a static load. Double check your fittings before climbing under.

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Nice car and lift! Looks like you still have 1 inch of roof clearance Just be careful not to get the road salt on the lift...too nice to be ruined.

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Very good point.

How does the lift work with your X74?

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Hi Pete, I need to use some 2x10 to extend and raise the ramps a bit after the x74 but it all works out very well (see pic in post #35). With x74 on the lift, the wheels are no longer dangling so they just suspend nicely once lifted whereas with stock suspension, the wheels will dangle and rest on the front extended ramp.