Help with front suspension install (getting out strut)

Hey guys, I did search on the M030 Suspension install and followed it as much as I could. I installed the rear struts/springs/sway bar but when I got to the front the DYI says to push the arm down and slowly pull the strut down and out thru the wheel well. I am doing this myself and consider myself pretty strong but could not get the strut out as I feel I am going to scratch my entire wheel lip? Do I have to disconnect anything else? Some say to disconnect the shaft? Please help

With a C2 it should drop right out. C4 is a little harder. Which do you have? OR You could remove the brake caliper.......that will allow you to swing the strut out. Some have done that.

Really? I have a C2. I did not remove the brake caliper as I did not have the tool for that (I know on my shopping list today). I did used a spring compressor and got it 1/2 shorter (its hard to use it the fronts). So what I am doing is right? Pull strut down the top and slowly pull towards me? It just gets stuck on the top well right before I reach the lip of my fender. I even put a towel to cover the 3 screws on top to avoid scratching my lip but still it stuff. Shall I try more force down? Thanks

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I took off both ball joints, I disconnected the lower control arm and the Toe arm. I left the brake caliper on the disk, Just get a big bit of rope , thread it through the strut hole and tie it to your spare wheel bolt. Tie this off before you go disconnecting the two ball joints. Stick a jack under the caliper also, helps with moving it into place to get the shock out from under the wing. Then slip it out , replace it , slip it back in. Hope that helps. When you get it right you can do the whole thing in less than 40 mins.

The caliper (actually the brake lines) is what limit the amount of force you can put on the strut. You want to yank it out but the brake line won't let you. If you do it though of course remove the pads first (I know dumb remark). On my C4 I had to loosen up the front carriage to get enough play to swing the struts out but I left the caliper on. Once I had one off the other side literally fell out. Like a teeter totter.

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I was trying to avoid disconnecting more stuff. I thought about the ball joints but did not want to mess with it. I will try one more time and see... If not I will have to disconnect the joints. Thanks !

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I will look into that as well. Do you know what size nut is needed for the caliper ? Looks like its an allen wrench?

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Allen yes.....I want to say a 8mm or 10mm. Get one that has a socket drive. I don't remember what you need to torque them too when you put it back in. Also some say you should re-use the caliper bolt. You should be ok....dependent on the shape of your calipers.

remove caliper bolts with 10mm hex allen wrench- two- one on inner top and other in inner bottom of caliper Porsche recommends you don't put the same bolt back in, thats why I poped the ball joints as I wanted to get the job done and didn't have time to wait for the bolts to arrive.

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Sean.......you are correct. I meant to say 'Some say to not re-use the bolt'. Good catch. I think just to get this guy back on the road though he could re-use them.....and change out at a later date.

yeah, I was going to a DE the following weekend and didn't want to take a chance. Francars - you should be able to reuse it , just keep an eye on any vibration and I wouldn't track it until you get new bolts. also make sure you tie the caliper up to something, regardless of my way or Pete's as soon as you remove the caliper there's a lot of weight on the break lines so you need to tie it up somewhere while you use your hands to remove the old strut and springs etc. good luck,

Did you disconnect the sway bar? You can just push down on the top of the strut and the lower arms will move enough to allow the strut mount to clear the fender. It's best to have someone help so that you don't loose grip... you've got one person pushing down ( I used the brake disk as a pushing point and one manuvering the mount out of the fender well. Once you figure it out you'll realize how easy it is. Fully assembled suspension can go in and out in under 15 minutes Edit - Here's the guilde I used the first time I did it. Very straight forward http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...nsion-install/

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yes I did disconnected the Sway bar. This is the link I followed too. I guess if cannot do it myself I will need a friend to help. Thanks

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Yeah, I was trying to get car ready for next week at the Track, but I guess if I take calipers off I better order new bolts

Go to autozone and get a ball joint separator, it sounds like more work than needed but once it's done it's 5 min job to get them back on. Granted I had a bunch of air tools to use also for those stuborn nuts. And yes I removed the drop link connection to the sway bar also.

Removing the caliper makes it much easier. I did not use a spring compressor on my 996 and was able to take the struts out out. You can bend the locating tab on the strut flat and this will allow the strut to slide a little deeper into the carrier to get more clearance. Take a look at your strut and you will know what I mean. The M30 front struts are shorter and will go back in much easier

I had the same problem. It was very difficult alone and protecting the fender was paramount. There was JUST enough play to get it out w/ 2 people. Re tab... I take it bent back OK. > You can bend the locating tab on the strut flat and this will allow the strut to slide a little deeper into > the carrier to get more clearance.

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Never tried since I tossed the original struts.