12 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHLN cam locking tool
Leading reported evidence
Use 360 crank degrees apart
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The long cam tool must be used 360 crank degrees apart.
Leading evidence: 'Use 360 crank degrees apart' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'tensioners' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check any recent debris' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I am using the Allen head M8x16 bolt from the pressure plate.
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Suggestion · Original poster
i dropped the sump and filter to check for any recent debris.
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Suggestion · Original poster
other than checking the deviation with a durematric...
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12 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T152433Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
'04 C4S 3.6L
Replacing IMSB
Using LN IMS Pro tool kit
I am having a little difficulty getting a snug fit using the included short cam locking tool from LN on the lower bank.
As you can tell the tip is tapered (circled red) not allowing a snug fit in the grove of the cam.
Unlike the squared tip on the longer tool that allows locking of the upper and lower bank.
I attempted to use the longer tool but i could not get the top to fit in after the lower was snuggly in place.
Also when using the shorter locking tool is it imperative that the bolt (circled red) is tight? I am using the Allen head M8x16 bolt from the pressure plate.
Right now that is as far as i can turn the bolt w/o using more torque to completely secure the short locking tool.
(Silly LN did not include a bolt with their kit).
I guess I can use a zip tie instead of the bolt but i am afraid it may not secure the locking tool enough.
I am afraid of further tightening the bolt as it is requiring more torque to secure it. I am afraid I would not be able to remove it afterward without rounding the hex.
I was in the process of removing the dang exhaust header to have more room but I started to break a bolt head so I stopped.
Nothing is ever straightforward on this old car.
By the way, these are Cam Locating Tool, they are not meant to "lock" the cams in place while you are torquing any nut/bolts to anything of significant force.
Whoaa so just spoke with Jud at LN and he told me to lock the upper AND lower cam on the 3 chain 3.6L engine.
Thank goodness i spoke to him. The LN instruction did not make it clear I had to lock both. I was more than happy to only lock the lower cam
as i have had difficulty placing the tool aligned on both.
He did say i can lock just the lower cam but preferred both are locked on the 3 chain.
Correct?
mmmhhhh i turned the crank clockwise several times to get the cams to line up to use the long locking tool. not having success.
it is not apparent the grooves on the cams are not parallel and in line but it is obvious when i place the locking tool.
am i screwed? timing is inherently F up?
110k miles on the engine. always drove nicely and no engine code. previously had the retrofit IMSB placed some years ago by previous owner.
too bad i don't have a durametric.
i dropped the sump and filter to check for any recent debris.
some x3-4 tiny specks of black objects that appear to be plastic.
i just spoke with Jud again from LN and he doesn't have any more suggestions for me at this time.
other than checking the deviation with a durematric...
anything else i may be missing?
You need to be more specific.
You are trying to change the IMS bearing using the LNE pro kit. The instructions (I believe) is to turn the crank shaft so that you can insert the long cam locking tool on bank 1 (on both intake and exhaust cams shafts), then at the same time insert the short cam tool on Bank 2 exhaust cam shaft. This is done to ensure that the cam shafts do not move while you are removing the IMS bearing.
If that is what you are doing, then you are locking both cam shafts on bank 1, and only exhaust cam on bank 2. That is fine.
It is NOT possible to fit two long cam locking tools on both banks at the same time. The long cam tool must be used 360 crank degrees apart.
yes, I am trying to use the longer locking tool on the exhaust and intake cam on the driver side (bank 1) closest to the thermostat. I cannot get either cams to be in-line for the locking tool to fit both grooves at TDC. Jud at LN recommended rotating the crank several times to get them to align but it hasn�t help. I�ve learned that both cams have to be locked together for my 3 chain engine. It does not call for bank 2 to be locked. It appears I may have to look at my variocam, pads, guides and chains to see if they need to be replace. I hope to be wrong. Although that seem reasonable for the mileage (110k+ miles) in the engine. I am not afraid of dropping the engine, I would rather avoid it.
i have not removed any tensioners. This has got me stuck in my track.
Well damn I got both cams locked with the long tool! Had to remove the exhaust manifold to get better access. Should have done that many hours ago. I rotated the crank past TDC several degrees to get the bank 1 cams aligned for the tool to fit in. Then rotated counterclockwise back to TDC and then locked. Pheww. I thought that was supposed to be one of the easy parts.
