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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHNEED help with 996 engine issue!?? Experts ??
Leading reported evidence
Replace seat switch and lowered car price by cost
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Porsche dealer replaced seat switch and lowered car price by cost to replace RMS.
Leading evidence: 'Replace seat switch and lowered car price by cost' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend fresh oil/filter and driving it, hard and prolonged' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Recommend fresh oil/filter and driving it, hard and prolonged
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Suggestion
Why I recommended fresh oil/filter and driving it, hard and prolonged.
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Suggestion
I am assuming the misfire is a one-off random bad coils/plugs diag but once you change those, just change the oil and drive it.
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Suggestion
Throw in an oil/filter change once all work is done, then drive the car....a lot.
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20 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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hey guys looking to buy This 996 with 60k miles. Dealer sent it to Porsche with a check engine light and this is what they found. What do you think? Should i walk away?
So what is the problem? Diagnostic is correct. Throw in an oil/filter change once all work is done, then drive the car....a lot. Owning a Porsche is not for the faint of heart, especially when you don't DIY.
So I don't know what your question / issues are.
Do you not believe the diagnosis?
Do you believe the diagnosis but feel that the estimate is too high?
Do you feel the labor rate is too high for your area?
How much do you drive? A stuck lifter is not the end of the world. Why I recommended fresh oil/filter and driving it, hard and prolonged. When was your last oil change? What oil are you using?
sorry looks like the first portion didn�t post on here. I�m trying to buy this car from a non Porsche dealer and they sent it to Porsche with a check engine light issue. My question should this be a deal breaker?
sorry looks like the first portion didn�t post on here. I�m trying to buy this car from a non Porsche dealer and they sent it to Porsche with a check engine light issue. My question should this be a deal breaker?
If you had not been shown this by the dealer, would you be interested in the car? In other words, does the car meet your preferences?
With any of these cars, you need to get a pre purchase inspection - PPI. I would advise against using a Porsche dealer. My 996 was purchased a Porsche dealer, I still had the car inspected in 2 stages at an independent Porsche specialist.
Stage 1 was to assess overall condition of the car:
-Everything operational
-Safety
-Accidents/repaints etc.
When I had acceptable results from Stage 1, the car stayed for stage 2 which included
Bore scope
Leak down
Oil filter inspection
I purchased the car. PPI found the following: Broken passenger side seat switch, sweaty transmission - RMS. Porsche dealer replaced seat switch and lowered car price by cost to replace RMS. So the PPI was well worth it. The lowering of price more than paid for the PPI. I didn't care about the RMS. Car went in right way for water pump/thermostat, clutch, flywheel, RMS and the solution within a week of purchase.
Actually, What it says is...
"There are stuck "lifter
s
" on the passenger side. They are currently not present. It will return but for the moment has gone away".
So I interpret that as the noise/misfire/whateva is gone now, but will come back..?
Any time I hear of possible lifter problems/noise on a m96 it scares me. As many a lifter problem are very costly
misdiagnosed bore score problems
.
Don't remember if you said what exact car it is. I assume from the parts list its a 996.1..? Which is not prone to stuck lifters, compared to the 996.2 with vario cam +, with 2 part lifters that do get stuck commonly when worn/dirty.
I wouldn't walk away based on the information presented. The dealer's comments on the estimate? are conflicting. Can you get clarity on the diagnosis? Is the solenoid replacement the solution or are there two problems: solenoid and lifter? Replacing sparks plugs and coils is something we have all done...or had done for us.
Come back with the lifter versus solenoid for a fine tuned response from the crew. Also include pictures taken from behind with eye level at brake lights and side shots.
No, it is common knowledge that most early 99's have a tick at idle and it has shown to not be bore scoring, not be a stuck lifter, nothing. It's just how they sound and yes, it comes and goes and yes, it goes away immediately with any throttle.
My take is that the tick happens from the gen 1 variocam solenoids not properly disengaging/engaging, and as soon as throttle is applied, the "tick" goes away.
Dealership is charging you for something that driving the car will cure. What code are they even pulling? I bet it's 1539 - if so you will cure it by changing solenoid seal, fresh oil and hard driving. the actuator is most likely stuck on bank 2's variocam solenoid.
I am assuming the misfire is a one-off random bad coils/plugs diag but once you change those, just change the oil and drive it. Edit - sorry see now the plugs and coils were already changed.
I love the part about how the engine can be left in the car. Of course it will, because they're going to charge you $2.5K and Juan is going to sit there and smoke his joint while his shift manager sits at his desk watching TikTok. I mean I guess they could pull muffler and lower it a touch via motor mounts but idk man, to do a cam cover with it still in the car is ridiculous. I'd bet it leaks after reinstall and they get to charge you again to do it right the second time.
What a scam. And yes I am serious.
To be clear, you�re talking about a cold start rattle/tick/knock sound from 99s. It�s important to note this sound goes away after a minute, and doesn�t happen when the engine is warm.
If the OP�s engine tick happens when warm, it�s something else.
As someone else said, there are plenty more out there to chose from, unless this car is so unusual and special that you really desire it, so much so you are willing to take the risk of a mis-diagnosis, the consensus seems to be its a problem that is not that big a deal, so then its a question of the scales of justice and risk on one side versus reward on the other.
Having worked as a car mechanic in a Pontiac Isuzu dealership many years ago, yes i was the reason both brands got cancelled lol.. i don't trust very many mechanics on diagnosis, also that diagnosis was done for the selling dealer not you, i doubt they would be of much assistance to you should the diagnosis prove incorrect.
How long have you been looking for a 996 and how many have you driven or considered buying, (its a loaded question) try to look at more than one.
The best way for me to get over a car i feel i must buy is to wait a few days then go look at another one, i tend to fall out of love with the first one and see it for what it is.
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