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YOUR RESEARCHQuickjacks with SUV adapters - how to
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Pretty confident there�s enough clearance to drop the motor - but I haven�t tested yet.
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Suggestion
I was about to pull the trigger on a set when I read that and thought to hold off but now I'm wondering if I just dreamed it.
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I had a really minor leak from one and that fixed it.
Hi RL�rs
Wanted to share my Quickjacks, with SUV adapters, experience.
First, I went with the 7000 series and purchased the SUV adapters. The adapters are in eight pieces. There�s a male and female end to assemble to provide the full height, if needed.
At first I couldn�t figure out how to get the fully assembled adapters under the frame - there�s not enough room to slide under the car when assembled.
Here�s how to get it done. Raise the car with Quickjacks then slide cement blocks (or similar) under the tires. With parking brake engaged lower the car onto the cement blocks. Lower the quickjacks to the ground then place the fully assembled SUV adapters onto the Quickjacks then raise to full height.
With the assembled SUV adapters I now get 27� of clearance measured from the bottom of rear bumper. As a bonus the cement blocks provide more piece of mind as a safety feature. At this height the transaxle can be easily moved around with a HF trans jack. Pretty confident there�s enough clearance to drop the motor - but I haven�t tested yet.
Hope someone finds this useful. I�m a big fan of the Quickjacks.
Looks good Brian! I’m not sure why a blocks of 6x6 wouldn’t do the same and actually be more stable...maybe hockey pucks screwed on? Maybe not, I’ve not looked close at the SUV adaptors
.
Yep. I've done it a couple times using a long reach low profile jack with a cross beam and a HF transmission jack. Don't actually need the SUV adapters (stacking the included blocks with some DIY lift point pucks), but I might still spring for them next time for a little extra clearance. Not sure with a table cart though.
I wouldn't use cinder blocks. BUT I have 2 sets of ramps and thought about doing the same thing with lowering onto the ramp tops, then lifting. Maybe making something out of solid wood stacks or tree stumps
I thought I read somewhere that QJ is working on a new high lift model to be released or announced in August that would negate the need for the SUV adapters for 911 engine removal. Anybody else heard anything about this? I was about to pull the trigger on a set when I read that and thought to hold off but now I'm wondering if I just dreamed it.
Yes, this was my understanding from a QJ rep when I called with questions. They have/will be discontinuing the current line. Wait if this is important to you, or keep an eye out for bargains on current models.
Just for the record here:
The American design code that guides design engineers in using CMU as a structural system is the
Masonry Standards Joint Committee's Building Code Requirements & Specification for Masonry Structures
(TMS 402/ACI 530/ASCE 5). The
compressive strength
of concrete masonry units and masonry walls varies from approximately 1,000 psi (7 MPa) to 5,000 psi (34 MPa) based on the type of concrete used to manufacture the unit, stacking orientation, the type of
mortar
used to build the wall, and other factors.
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Place a 2x8 over the block to distribute load and you could put in F350 on cinder blocks. Im 100% a 996 will be fine.
I also bought from Costco recently(on sale thankfully). I didn�t wait for these as I will rarely need the extra height and when I do, I can work around it. I was worried the new ones would be more expensive and rarely go on sale.
I also bought mine recently. I also bought the SUV adapters AND the hockey pucks. Check out my video for how I did it and how much height I got. Spoiler, it raises it high enough. Just barely.
You Tube
Thanks! I wasted about 90 bucks on those ramps but learned a valuable lesson. My jack stands make an excellent halfway point to raising the car high enough for an engine drop. I only need it that high when dropping the engine. NOT for normal maintenance. Some things to keep in mind.
- The lift moves the car backwards as it lifts so accommodate for that in your garage.
- This is a big one - The QJ does not like NOT dropping the weight of the car all the way down. So when you put your jacks in place you'll have to manually push the QJ down. I jump on mine enough to fit the adapters. Word of warning: The QJ malfunctioned on me once where only one side dropped and put my 911 in a very precarious position. Solution, raise and drop again. SLOWLY.
- The QJ leaks fluid from the couplers if you don't use enough teflon tape, no matter how tight you torque them.
Hmm. I have the 5000lb version and it works great. Most important lesson was remembering to open the vent on the tank. That makes everything run smoothly. I scribbled a note on the controller as a reminder. Also, I was very surprised at the couplers ability to not leak. Impressive design.
Sorry, I wasn�t clear. I�m referring to the air cylinder parallel to the hydraulic cylinder. If you loose air pressure, the QJ will not return to it�s lowered position.
https://www.quickjack.com/pub/downlo...ift-Manual.pdf
I haven�t had any issues with lowering. I agree on the comment about ensuring proper air pressure.
and if you do get leaking, I found it could be as easy of a fix as backing the coupler off partially, wiping and reapplying the tape. I had a really minor leak from one and that fixed it.
That may have been it. At the time the car was reversed into my garage so the pump is positioned off to the side instead of directly in front as depicted in the manual because it was so close to the garage door.
Even my standard Quickjack XL is a tight fit inside a 96 in wheelbase. You might check that before you buy the TL model. Of course you could use them transversely - I�ve seen it but not done it.
OP�s advice was useful and allowed me to pull my motor out from a BoxsterS (sorry 996ers). Just be sure to reverse his advice and remove those adapters before lowering to the ground. After years of ownership, I never had reason to recall this rule: �
Your QuickJack requires a little bit of space to get going to raise a load. It cannot raise a full load from a completely flat starting position.� My car currently looks like it is hovering 5� off the ground. Sometimes I wonder�
I see a Bug Eye Sprite in your garage. My parents had one in the 60's that I would ride in the back as a kid in Sunnyvale. After moving to So Cal in the 70's
I helped Dad restore another one. Fun little car.
