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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHreverse lights not working
Leading reported evidence
Replace reverse switch
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Also replaced reverse switch on all 3 996 I've owned.
Leading evidence: 'Replace reverse switch' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check (or' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I've even used a jumper wire jammed into the switch harness.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I probably used the wires as leverage to pull the back-shell off the switch and put too much strain on the tin contact.
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Suggestion
Have you checked (or replaced) the relay for "backup light"?
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20 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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The reverse lamps aren't coming on, but here's the twist... It's not the fuse, or the switch on the transmission. Both have been tested AND replaced, and then tested again. Everything has continuity. I've even used a jumper wire jammed into the switch harness. Still no dice.
What else could I possibly be missing?
check inside the reverse light socket themselves. I had the metal piece that contacts the bulb break off which caused the lights to not work due to no contact. easy fix with a new tail light harness for me. FYI the rest of the light worked while it was broken
Well, might be time to go back to basics. Test for voltage at the bulbs sockets and back track to every inline connector plug testing each one. test at the reverse switch for voltage. test/trace it back till you find where voltage stops...Is there voltage at the relay jumper..? Maybe the fuse diagram will show if the mirror motor is on the same circuit as reverse lights..?
Rodents love to eat those wires on the back of the engine bay tray, I've fixed those on 2 996 now. Also replaced reverse switch on all 3 996 I've owned. Used a Amazon $10 URO replacement switch last 1 and it seems to work fine. It was indistinguishable from the stock switch it replaced.
jmo
Yes. Nothing at the plug.
How do I access the �relay� in that top right location. How can I remove that cover thing?
I think I may have been probing the wrong location and I also want to give this relay jumper thing a good look.
Oh what fun. Had to get to the back of the relay panel to take a closer look. Which means moving the clamshell actuator and bracket out of the way.
2 busted knuckles later�. I�m actually not getting current to the relay location. I think my trans switch harness might need a closer look. Those contacts really seem to move around in that plug.
I have a broken contact/pin on the black with blue stripe wire at the transmission switch. which is the one that heads to the relay location.
Anyone know where I might find a new contact/pin to recrimp in this location?
It�s not really there anymore, but maybe you can tell from the back half of it?
I don�t want to pull the other one out because I�m worried it�s going to break too. I tried to pull it and it�s not really coming out easy. Surely there�s an extraction tool/method, but I don�t know what that is.
Thats a standard gm weatherpac connector. The can be usually be bought preassembled at any part store and u can just splice it in with some butt connectors
https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL76266-Weather-Individual-Connector/dp/B006K8VB7C/ref=asc_df_B006K8VB7C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=632115368848&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3058747207857 723800&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=90074 81&hvtargid=pla-1408954754043&psc=1
You put me on the right path jeeper!
The connectors are similar, but it looks like this is a Delphi metri-pack series connector. Thanks a million!
metri-pack 150 series to be exact
https://a.co/d/hpeArdu
https://www.whiteproducts.com/sealed150.shtml
Where I bought pins from:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...znsaV8RA%3D%3D
The wire insulation is not potted or thermally fused to the back-shell. So there is tangential/right angle strain relief, but no tension strain relief. There's just a booger of butyl keeping the back-shell and wires weatherproof.
I'm going to go ahead and own this one and not point my finger at the last guy. I probably used the wires as leverage to pull the back-shell off the switch and put too much strain on the tin contact. oops.
