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YOUR RESEARCHBest options for a tired suspension
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durable as he'll and still going strong
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For me, the Bilsteins have proven to be durable as he'll and still going strong after 14 years.
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I run it cranked up to the stiffest setting on 200 or 100 tires including hoosiers.
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You also need to adjust the clicks to find your comfort level.
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Suggestion
I may replace the coil springs for next season with swift springs and then eventually settle on a set of JRZs in a year or two as I sort thru replacing parts for the next 20 years of ownership.
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I have a 2000 996 C4 cab with 94k miles and I�m looking for suggestions on refreshing the suspension. I have no strut leaks or obvious major looseness but every pothole is an adventure. The car has always felt every bump in the road and mones and grones , but it�s getting worse. I don�t track it so I don�t need a racing suspension , just something to smooth out the rough ride. Any suggestions? Or is this just the way a 2000 996 cab should feel ? I recently drove a 2014 cayman on the same roads and the suspension feel was much calmer which is why I�m asking.
thanks.
Ohlins Road & Track. That may not be as smooth as you want, but it is not nearly as stiff as a track oriented suspension. The better dampers will make an improvement in smoothness, even with stiffer springs.
The other advantage is the damping is adjustable (rebound only, I think) and the ride height is also adjustable. Ohlins will also sell you alternate spring rates if you want something firmer or softer. Expect to spend about $2,500 to $3,000. You will need an alignment when done.
I installed mine myself, then had a shop perform the alignment. Keep in mind that I have a GT3, but Ohlins makes kits for the C4.
https://www.ohlins.com/product/road-...1999-2005-996/
I had my 2000 C2 Cab suspension completely refreshed using OEM parts. Wasn't cheap - over $7000, but the car drives like new. I had a lot of squeaks and groans and some body roll. That's all gone. If you're using the owners manual chart for tire pressure, drop down a few PSI - the ride will be noticeably softer. I'm using 33 front and 39 rear. But if your shocks are worn that won't help much.
Covered extensively recently:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...er-2021-a.html
Bushings:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...g-removal.html
Here's what I'm doing. I'm currently replacing most all of the suspension. I list specific parts at the end of post 1: coilovers, control arms, etc., and coilover comparison shopping in post 6.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-2004-c4s.html
Edit: If you have specific moans, groans, etc., then something is definitely loose, or worn out. Could be as simple as sway bar drop links, could be control arms bushings, or something else.
We�ll, I�m guessing you need new struts at a minimum. Most likely, all the bushings are shot and you need to replace them. Most replace the entire control arms, ball joints, and drop links.
How handy are you and what�s your budget?
I am pretty handy and can do all but the alignment. I also have a very good and relatively inexpensive indi who I would get an installation price from. Budget is not an issue ( not that I want to waste money)
I just know I don�t need a track suspension and would rather a little smoother ride with it still being Porsche ride.
I really appreciate everyone�s help.
I recently put Koni shocks/struts all around, keeping the original springs. This was my 2001 Carrera with 58K miles on her. I also did new drop links, everything else looked and felt pretty good for now. I am very happy with ride feel, it's stiff enough but not too "hoppy" when in town. The grip is very good when pushing the car around a bit too. I went with Koni for a couple of reasons, first they have a longstanding, positive reputation and second they were priced very reasonably.
I put Feal coilovers and Eibach sway bars along with replacing every suspension arm with new parts. I didn't use OE (Porsche branded), but they were OEM. Car drives like a dream. Night and day.
With the mileage on your car and stated intent, I�d suggest new struts vs coilovers. Either way, you�ll want to do a full suspension refresh. The FCP Euro control arm linked inside the post above (
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-2004-c4s.html
) are what you need.
All of this, save for the alignment, can be done DIY pretty easily if you have the time.
I�m in the process of putting Koni Special Active struts on mine and I had similar objectives as you. They are highly regarded by the 993 community (used to be called FSD) and recommended by Gert from Carnewal. OEM or Bilstein are options too but the latter will be stiffer. Here�s some info on the Koni�s. https://www.koni.com/en-US/Cars/Products/Performance/Special-Active/
I don�t have experience with coilovers personally but I also don�t see anything in your posts that suggest you need or want them. Just my opinion.
It seems that back when I was looking to do this (probably 5 - 6 years ago, C4 but coupe not cab) Koni�s offerings were for C2 only... Maybe that has changed by now...
If you plan on keeping the car a long time i would go with the Ohlins coilovers and replacing all suspension arms with Mahle arms or similar OEM parts (not porsche branded). I did this and the car handles amazing, its compliant and fun to drive. Makes the driving experience so much better in every way. Potholes are not a big issue.
+1 for Ohlins. You'll be surprised at how smooth it is when you dial down the dampers. I no longer brace for impact when hitting short and sharp bumps all over ****ty DC roads.
My 99 c2 groans, bobs, and weaves, but handles beautifully on the track or anytime I push it on the street. Multiple people with experience have said that my car�s 23 yr-old suspension is just fine.
So why the discrepancy? Are good shocks only really for Chicago-style roads (terrible roads)? Or would a refreshed suspension reveal the difference (better)?
Ohlins. Maybe there are others that give good low speed damping without being harsh on high speed movement....IDK. That's how they get away with high spring rates.....which reduce your roll without bigger sway bars
I would also say you should replace all four lower control arms, also maybe the angled control arms and you'll need adjustable rear toe arms and the kit that eliminates the Mickey Mouse stock rear toe eccentrics
My 2003 C4 is at about 88,000 miles (141k km). I've replaced a couple of components where I thought there was noticeable wear, but the biggest difference was in replacing the struts - mine is just a fun daily driver, so while the decision wasn't entirely budget related, I was looking for a refresh not an overhaul or significant upgrade.
I replaced the struts with Bilstein B6. While price comparison U.S. to Canada is rarely relevant, these are available through RockAuto and no other supplier I found came close to the price, including delivery and a generous heap of tax to the Canadian government.
It's a little more challenging (well, more effort) to do the fronts on the C4, but we still did it ourselves with no issues.
I have a constant squeak coming from the driver side rear shock tower. It drives me nuts. Following this thread to see what folks recommend (C4S). Was hoping not to do a total refresh but......
Found the source of the squeaking. This brace from the cross member was slightly loose. Still need new suspension as it's a 2002 with 88k miles. Buddy just did a Bilstein B8 setup and likes it. It's gonna be either that or I may spring for the Ohlins. Not decided yet.
How would you compare the stock 996 GT3 coilovers to the Ohlins? I have GT3 coilovers on my C2 and am worried if I change to the Ohlins they may be too soft. The car is tracked regularly.
I�m wondering how the front fitment of the GT3 struts works out on a C2, as the front suspension geometry is totally different due to the front axles on the GT3...?
Front axles on a GT3? They are RWD, not AWD. That said, I'm pretty sure the suspension components are different to a regular C2 but there are no axles in the front.
I have not felt the 996 GT3 coilovers but can't imagine them being more comfortable than the Ohlins. With Ohlins, you at least have the ability to set the damper stiffness to your liking and it's a much newer technology. I'm not sure if the stock GT3 coils had damper adjustment - I could be wrong.
+1 for Ohlins. Yes, the ride can be a bit more firm, but it's well worth it. You also need to adjust the clicks to find your comfort level. I first tried them let all the way out but found myself bouncing over everything, I then took them down to 12 clicks from closed and it's surprisingly smooth on the freeway and most roads, yes a freeway bridge crack can be jarring as with a pothole, but never hammering. If you autoX or track yrou car at all then I'd highly recommend them. It takes 1 minute to scoot around to all four corners and adjust the firmness. I just went to Buttonwillow and had fun going from 7 clicks out down to 5 clicks. I had two instructors tell me how well balanced the car was (note: I also have GT3 swaybars). Then at the end of the day, I just clicked back out to 12 clicks and enjoyed my buttery smooth ride home.
I’m a fan of my PSS10’s on my car (all street car) Also can say I’ve heard nothing but great things on the Ohlins. Either are a worthwhile upgrade from the factory components in my opinion. I do want to source some hollow GT3 sway bars— I see tarrett makes an exact match of the oem GT3 bars (hollow center) Jengah- any impressions you can share before and after adding the GT3 sways?
both the front and rear gt3 parts work on a c2. I have done it. The gt3 requires extra parts like sway bar brackets, adjustable links, top mounts and spring cups. The thing is there is no reason to go with gt3 set up because u can have the c2 shocks valved and spinged for the gt3 settings. Get a set of tarett top plates and bingo...instant race car.
I bought my gt3 set uo because ohlin had no c2 avalibility and i want more of a race car feel anyways. I dont find the steet manners harsh either.
I would take a look at Bilstein PSS10s as well. I know the rage right now is with Ohlins, just like the rage was with Bilsteins 10 years ago versus the other options. The point is that there are so many great coilover systems today, that you aren't stuck with just one. Problem is that there are ZERO comparisons between any of them, anywhere. Including YouTube for a simple reason, who is going to buy two sets of coilovers to compare? Same thing for complete exhaust systems and a dyno. Just too expensive. So what you get are a bunch of people, me included who will give you feedback on their set-up, but none of us have quantitative data comparing different coilovers on the street and track actually tell which is faster, more comfortable, easier to set-up and use etc.
Both PSS10s and Ohlin RT are adjustable by you or your shop to get the ride you want. If you are part of the small number of RLs who do track days, either will be incredible upgrades to Oem and will be more than what you would need unless you are a really serious DE guy or club racer. Then your looking at JRZs which will run you 10-12k for the coilovers and many thousands more for the complete set-up. But this is overkill for the majority of RLs.
I have been running a set of PSS9s since 2007 (10s weren't produced at that time) with tarret sway bars and suspension set-up to GT3 specs. I run it cranked up to the stiffest setting on 200 or 100 tires including hoosiers. Early on I would adjust it up for the track and then down for the street and decided to just keep it at the track setting because it was just a pain in the ***. I just have to make sure that I have a lid on my coffee when driving around.
For me, the Bilsteins have proven to be durable as he'll and still going strong after 14 years. I may replace the coil springs for next season with swift springs and then eventually settle on a set of JRZs in a year or two as I sort thru replacing parts for the next 20 years of ownership.
Here is the point: lots a very good solutions out there. I swear by Bilsteins, others swear by Ohlins, Feals, KWs, etc. It comes down to if you want to lower the car, drive it just on the street, track-it occasionally, seriously track it to get faster in DE, etc.
Will you get an improvement in ride comfort on the street moving from Oem to adjustable coilovers at their softest settings. Of course. How do I know, I tried it and compared the feel with my but gauge.
Will you get faster times on the track moving from OEM to adjustable coilover at stiffer settings. Of course, there is no comparison because I tried it as well.
Comes down to what you are looking for.
Comparing things like suspension is pretty tough actually because things like ride quality and what someone classifies as stiff or amount of acceptable body roll is very subjective. I'd highly recommend speaking with some folks at your local C&C, shop or maybe a local rennlister and go for a ride in their car. All the options mentioned here will be more than fine based on specs but the only real way to know is to get in a car with a set. It may not be easy but probably not as hard as you think.
I can't give you that direct comparison because I bought the car with them on. What I can tell you is that it feels like and handles much more neutral than what I've experienced in stock 996s.Sorry.
Appreciate the info�while the PSS10s get me close, I�ve been chasing a more neutral feeling (I was hoping to hear your impressions were just that). I�ll likely be ordering the tarrett brand after holidays. Anyone who isn�t already aware, Tarrett makes an exact replica of the GT3 bars (more cost effective) and hollow. Seems like the final step to balance the car out.
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