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YOUR RESEARCHJim's and his wife's 996
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lot more work and know-how than i figured
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Reported cause · Original poster
Turned out to be a lot more work and know-how than I figured.
Leading evidence: 'lot more work and know-how than i figured' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'lot more work and know-how than i figured' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust glass' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Disconnected the battery and started to take stuff out to get at the starter...
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Some people have complained that the dashes don't go back in as perfectly as the original factory installed ones.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
In either case, we had seen that others had installed a switch to turn on the cooling fans manually.
Clean contacts and brushes and examined the brush wear
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Personally if I had taken off the starter i would of at least stripped it and re-greased it, cleaned the contacts and brushes and examined the brush wear.
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Suspected cause
So my guess would be that your solenoid is acting up and that in the removal process you jostled it around enough to get it to work temporarily, but would imagine your issue is likely to come back.
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Outcome without a verified action link
I have a Durametric that has worked well on my 2003 C2 and 2004 TT.
We have a Zenith Blue 1999 Carrera 4
I am just going to start a new thread to ask all my questions instead of having a new thread everytime.
First off a little about me.
I am a Mustang guy (sorry guys). I have had a few over the last several years and currently drive a 2012 GT coupe glass top and a 2005 GT convertible and had them from new. I also had 4 Mustang IIs (I get ridiculed a lot for those cars...). I love modding them and have done extensive interior modding to both of these cars. In many cases, I was the experimenter. If you are a Mustang guy like me, you can check out everything I contributed to the Mustang community over at The Mustang Source. I never considered a Porsche - not my thing.
So why a Porsche? It is my wife's dream car and has been for a long time.
I didn't know this. She always had a new SUV and would trade it in every 4 or so years to get a new one, so she had the sensible family car while I had my toy car. Little did I know she wanted one too.
Last summer I bought a new Golf GTI so I could garage my Mustang in the winter, and my wife would use it in the summer. She feel in love with driving it (it really does handle well. Made me realize how crappy my Mustang handles and 'forced' me to get stiffer springs and Koni yellows to improve my Mustang!). But this wasn't enough. So she let it slip that she would love a Porsche.
OK. So we started looking, did the research on the problems with 996s and 997s (holey crap these cars have problems!!). I got scared, but these cars are old enough that there are solutions out there. Found a car she loved, did the PPI (Porsche said it was a great example, but the front strut mounts were toast) and bought it. Then it lost half its coolant 2 days after purchase. Boy was I happy ... We towed it back to Porsche to a stunned technician. They gave me 20% off parts and labour at least.
She has come up with a list of mods she wants to do to her car already (She came up with this on her own after researching on the internet and advise from me. Never knew she was such a car girl.):
get 5 spoke Carrera II rims with all season tires
change out interior panels to leather panels
get DCTMS steering wheel with the AMG Mercedes paddles (I did this to my Mustang using Tim Stone's transmitter for his Chrylser 300 mod)
get Boxster shifter with the crest
get the Boxster silver door grab handles
get upgraded E bake with wood handle and silver trim - paint handle piano black
paint some trim in car piano black
relocate spoiler button to dash
find a use for the second blank out button on the dash - garage door using the Targa button
convert blank out buttons on centre console to USB ports
get mid cushions from a cabriolet for the rear seats
My list (even though it is her car) is preventative repairs and change out the cluster for the gen 2 cluster. Hate that gen 1 cluster. I also thought of adding ambient lighting. The 2007 - 2009 Mustangs have changeable ambient lighting that is on a separate module. I could put that in her car and use the 'footwell' light button that goes in the dash from gen 2 cars as the button for this.
Now I have already asked questions about the cluster, and am working on that now, and refurbishing a shifter ****.
My question for the day:
When I was driving the car home from purchase, there was NO heat at all from the HVAC. I forgot to ask the Porsche guys when they had it, but in I would like to start doing my own repairs on this car like I do to my Mustang anyways. Now the other day it did give me some luke warm air despite it being on the hottest setting.
Is this as warm as it gets in these cars or is it my thermostat that is toast? Or maybe a blend door?
I'd hold off on relocating the spoiler button. When you first get the car it seems like something you're going to use all the time - in reality you probably won't. Regarding the other blanks on the dash, take a look at the garage door opener mod some people do. The targa top button icon looks a lot like a garage door and you can wire it into your opener to have a convenient toggle on the dash to open/close the garage. Thats currently next on my list of upgrades.
It should put out heat - these cars generate a ton of heat. Are your temp readings normal? Do you hear a fan running for the blower? It could be something related to the actuator that diverts air over your heater core not working properly. But, since you just had all of your coolant dump and be refilled I'm leaning towards air in the system. It sounds like it needs to be burped.
That's not a bad idea, Charlie. I will add it to the list.
She just wants all blankouts to have a purpose.
Seems strange to me that a car when new was $80 000 but still uses blank outs like a cheap Kia. Sorry, but that bugs me.
Temp reading are normal. Fan is definitely working, just blowing luke warm air at best. I thought of air in the line - but discounted it since Porsche said they already did this 3 times to ensure no air. I suppose it couldn't hurt for me to do it.
Yes, I thought the blend door to be a likely candidate too. Just wanted to confirm that these cars actually do produce heat for the cabin. First thing's first, then. I will have to find a way to check the blend doors.
If you're going to be doing work yourself, check out Durametric. Its a diagnostic tool that plugs into the OBD2 port and gives you some really great features. I'm pretty sure you can actuate the solenoids for the blend valve with it and just 'listen' for it to move while the car isn't running.
You'd think so... I haven't dealt with Porsche service departments yet, but based on my experience with other brands I've found assuming they do it right isn't always wise. If they just replaced your AOS and did a coolant fill, it may be a good idea to take it back to them. At the very least they should be able to tell you what the problem is.
Assuming that you have a compressor consider getting one of these. You can use it on the Mustangs and other cars.
UView airlift
https://www.tooltopia.com/uview-5500...MaAow3EALw_wcB
One of many threads on climate control flap foam
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...nt-debris.html
FYI there are no water control valves on the 996. Hot water always circulates through the heater core as long as it is not “air locked”. The heater core is the highest part of the system.
Post a picture and year or at least year and model. There are differences and knowing which one we are talking about will help with troubleshooting. It sounds like you might have a 1998 - 2001 996... Coupe/Cab??
Reading that link looks like I should start with the disintegrating foam in the heater box.
I definitely have bad foam that accumulated in the vents that I cleaned out. I'll do that before touching the thermostat.
I have a Durametric that has worked well on my 2003 C2 and 2004 TT. That said, search around a little, some folks with early cars have had some problems with the Durametric they may not have had the latest software. Once you have the cable you can update the software anytime.
Her car is now getting parked for the rest of winter, as snow is forecast by the end of the week. I will be collecting interior leather bits for it here and there in the mean time to fill her wish list and get some tools to work on it. When there is a warmish weekend, I think I am going to delve into the heater box and see what is up in there. I am also going to look deeper into getting that gen 2 cluster.
Doesn't look like I'll get much time working on my Mustang this winter
Wow, that's a pretty car you got there. I'm sure you're happy with it. I have seen many blue ones like that. "Zenith" blue? That reminds me. My father used to sell Zenith televisions years ago. That's when they were built like tanks. Today's televisions are feather light compared to those old ones. But we had better programming than anything these days.
Jim010,
Maybe consider putting some information about the car in your signature. Or put a picture in your avatar. That way in the future we won’t have to try to remember what you have.
fpb111
You're not actually asking me to give up Doctor Doom, are you?
lol.
I have to pay it seems to enable the signature option. Maybe later as I get established here. But I did post a picture and what the car is in my first post.
Then leather door panels came today. $100 cdn for both. I am pleased with the shape they are in.
I think we will use the Boxster S silver grab handles to add some contrast to all that black. Maybe change the stitching to blue.
OK, here is what I was wanting. I got a hand brake with the wood handle that I wanted to take apart and refinish in gloss black and install that handle on our old E-brake assembly with the black 'leather'.
But I cannot get the handle free. It is glued on really strong. Anybody have a suggestion? I tried vice grips with lots of padding, but all I am doing is cracking the resin. I don't want to cause more damage I may not be able to repair.
Lol. She says it's in the mail.
I gave up on disassembling the wood handle. I'm just going to break it. Am sending it to Alan Gun at Custom Leather Steering Wheel Restoration in Florida.
I'm going to use glooss black vinyl wrap on the other trim in the interior.
Still picking up some interior bits and waiting for it to get warm enough to disassemble the interior and install some of this. Just got a leather wrapped cowl. Going to rip oit the stitching and redo it in blue.
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Thanks. I have a number of interior mods going on right now but few are finished. With spring here and the snow melting I need to hurry up.
The e brake is a wooden handle option. I wanted to disassemble it and refinish the handle in black, but I just could NOT get the handle off without breaking it, so I sent it off for someone to do for me. I got the handle off Ebay.
Jim,
Lots of great mods (as others have indicated). However, after reading the thread from the beginning it seems to me the title if 180 out. Let's recap, You are a Mustang guy, SHE found the car, SHE made the list of upgrades, she she she... It seems the title should be "(insert her name) and the helper" or "insert her name and the muscle" or well you get the idea. Just sayin' LOL
Funny how that worked out. Haven't done anything to my mustang this winter. But working on her car with her is fun and satisfying. The other day we changed out the heater core together and will do the thermostat next ... maybe.
For this, she removes the panels, I upholster them and she reinstalls.
more picks coming. Turning out really good.
I got mine from this guy and he has instructions to do it. The cluster is easy, but the buttons and vac need fine soldering. I had a guy do those for me at $5 a button. HVAC is next.
http://sportscarleds.com
I'm curious about your start/ stop button. I assume it's fully functional...but do you have to still have the key in the ignition to the on position ? And, where did you move to wiper speed control to ?
Top work! I think a lot of pcar guys are "oem only" but I've been doing stuff like that for years on my BMWs and plan to do the same to the 911, Even better that your wife is not only into it, but helps out.... you sir, are a smart man.
My wife is not yet convinced she wants it in yet, but yes it is functional. The key still has to be in it. The wiper delay is to be moved to the power outlet spot. The power outlet will be moved to inside the centre console glove box and a second to be added somewhere.
but she wants true keyless ignition, so will go with this using the Honda S2000 button:
https://digitalguarddawg.com/keyless-ignition/automotive/pbs-x/
Free accommodations and meals?
I too have been doing this for years to my Mustangs. She never took an interest. But now that it is her toy car, well ...
Very nice work! Impressive. Hate to be OCD but you can probably get that drivers side rear window seal kink out by gently running a flat plastic tool under it, maybe with a little bit of dishwashing soap as a lubricant. Looks kind of funky the way it is now.
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Update:
While we figure out what is wrong with the hearing in the car, next week we get new front strut mounts. Dank they are pricey for a C4...
The door panels and rear panel I will upholster later this month or in early May . Getting less free time now.
I will take a weekend this month to put in the new dashboard. It is leather and out of a turbo so we get a glove box out of it, so I am linking that.
My wife liked the 'ambient lighting' system I have in my 05 and 12 Mustangs, so we got the whole system from a wrecked Mustang and will adapt it to her car this month. Should be fun to do.
I will do a write up on this for those that are interested in a separate thread.
Curious, I�m redoing my center console in leather. I was going to fill in the ashtray and window switches (relocating them to the dash). I was going to do this to try and get a clean line for sticking from the back of the shifter to the arm rest. I see that you actually stitched a line without removing them. Can you post a few pictures of the console? Maybe an overhead shot?
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Picked up an airbag and steering wheel for a good price! Air bag is excellent, but the wheel needs work. Will get it redone and with blue stitching like I have in the rest of the car.
Also got the 4 stalk combination switch and am making the harnesses to retrofit the cruise control and OBC.
Just finished attaching the paddles to the new wheel. Can't wait to drive it using paddles!
Haven't done much upholstery work lately but Wil finish this when the car is parked, I think.
Hello my Mustang Brother!!!
I've got a 93GT in the shop right now going through a color change.
Picked up our '99 C2 Coupe Manual a couple months back and am finally starting to wrench on it slowly. Hope to have it "ready" by the spring time.
Great progress you've made in the time you've had yours. Looking forward to seeing more updates!
PS: My car is silver but my kids call her Sally as well LOL
For the USB, I bought this:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Short-USB-2-0-A-Female-To-A-Male-Cable-Extension-Cord-Hot-Sell/191928086863?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
I then cut a hole out of one of my left over blank out buttons and fitted it into that. The USB that came out of the head unit then just plugged into the short cord. I got blue and i have it illuminated when the headlights are turned on.
The mid cushion I refer to is this:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Porsche-996-...53.m1438.l2649
Because we actually do use the back seats all the time, these cushions are needed to keep the passenger's back straight.
And yes, it is always nice to see a fellow Mustanger. I post regularly on The Mustang Source under the same handle.
This is the first I'm going through this thread. Just echoing everyone else's comments - you're work is really amazing. Kudos to you for jumping right in, head first.
That mid-cushion is pretty cool. I'd like to test fit something like that in my coupe. I think it would make the rear seats more comfortable as well. I have kids and use my back seats all the time as well.
I concur with your wife removing the "Start" button. The ignition switch on the left dates back to Porsche's early racing heritage at Le Mans and serves a purpose. Having a Start button on the right would sort of defeat the purpose of having the ignition on the left.
http://www.aristocratmotors.com/blog/porsches-key-left/
Where are you getting the leather for this? Is it all pre-cut and designed for the car or just getting sheets and custom cutting it? Getting used pieces and enhancing or reusing?
I am basically looking to redo almost all of my interior and am scared to see what a shop will quote.
i am not excited to drop $10k for a new convertible top (with glass window) and new interior into a car I bought for $14k total. I dont mind spending some to make it like new, just trying to keep it reasonable. I dont plan to sell it, but make it last me a while and enjoy it.
I am making my own patterns myself, stitching it myself, gluing it myself. I am doing all of it. I am not using leather either. From asking around, leather will shrink over time while vinyl will not, but surfaces that will be touched alot, leather is better. So for the panels I went with vinyl, which is also easier to work with, an no one will be able to tell the difference anyway. I am not an upholsterer, so I am learning as I go.
Interior is now disassembled again, so I can continue to reupholster. The dash isn't out yet, though. Have to pull that out still, and fix my heating problem while I am at it.
Looking great!!! I noticed earlier in the thread you mentioned wanting to change out the seat upholstery. Have you checked these out?
https://www.lseat.com/products/1998-...ers-front.html
You can even get blue stitching...
If you decide to go with blue stitching I'd ask them if you could send them your thread to either use or match up for color continuity sake... Good luck
Absolutly, thanks. I have to wait on this though. There are some repair/maintenance items that have popped up that need attention. Life with a used car ... there's always something ...
Added a power port to the side of the console. Super easy. Got a power port with spring loaded door from a GM truck. Just splice it into the existing one to have 2.
These door lights for a Panamera just snap into place and will project the Porsche crest on the ground when open.
Just need to splice the wires into the plugs I got for them.
I got these off ebay, but the seller isn't selling anymore of these. But I found others online:. They snap right in, but still need to be wired.
https://www.taiwantrade.com/product/...-1114929.html#
You need to get a plug from Porsche to fit into the new light, put female pins in it and then wire it to the old plug. But I see that the one from ebay that I posted has that already done for you, so I would go with them.
these wont fit a 996 different plug, I bought them and then went to the dealer,
He couldn't find the plug separately but found
a generic wire 12" long with 2 female ends 41.00$
no thanks, went too a computer supply store and found them for 3.00$
still haven't installed them because I would rather use a correct plug
if I can ever find them
I'll see if there is a part number on my invoice from Porsche . They got me the right plugs. Put you still need female pins and splice the wires to the old plug.
I still say get the ones from the eBay vendor I linked. Already has plugs.
well that would help me. I bought the ones off amazon so i need the plug. Im sure a could solder something up if i had too but i would rather not. I dont mind cutting the old plug off the factory harness and splicing the new one in.
btw, your ebay link is ebay AU and ships to the US for $17 but then it says the location is in CA. Then in red a little lower it says "does not ship to us"
Thanks Scott. Snow is melting fast. We are going to try for next week.
there was alot of extra wiring crap in there. We had to remove it all and clean it up. Adding ambient lighting to the footwells and adding another power port, so doing some extra wiring tomorrow. Also adding cruise control and the computer.
Once we pulled out all the aftermarket stuff and tapped everything up, it wasn't so bad. Just need to finish upholstering the new leather dash, replace a couple of pieces that broke (ugh - always seems to happen ...) and we can start to put it back together again.
Well, this one was a pain. And there are TWO blend doors!! I can't get the other one without going in from the bonnet. That is the one everyone fixes. But this second one can only be accessed from the dash, like another member did.
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well, test fitted the new dash...
Looks like if anyone wants to switch the dash for one with a glovebox, you need a couple more parts then I first thought.
Need the following (I have it already):
bracket - 996.552.753.00
inner right air duct - 996.572.464.02
Just found out I need this too, sigh ...
outer air duct - 996.572.768.01
center air distributor duct - 996.572.171.04
central dash frame for 02-04
Going to have to order some parts off Ebay ... luckily not expensive. Just have to wait longer to put everything back together.
Contact Alina at High End Motorsports
Motorsports <
[email removed]
>
I gave them the patterns to make the bonnet mat and the 2 shelf mats. They said they would make it available for everyone. We're even going to use my pictures, lol.
She didn't like the idea of foam again, so went with aluminum tape. Both flap doors covered, and we have heat! Turned on our brains and figured out how to do the back flap door.
Take THAT, stupid Porsche dealership service department. ...
The rabbit hole for converting the dash to have a glove box goes pretty deep ...
The upper duct only fits the mk2 style vents.
Well, I'm just going to blend the 2 to get what I need from this.
Wow! That's a lot of work for a glove box - but it looks like you're doing a great job, and you'll have exactly what you want! Yours will be a true "unicorn Porsche" (albeit custom).
Yes it was alot for a glove box ... but dash had to come out anyway to reupholster it and to get at the heater flap doors, so what was a little extra effort to get the glovebox , right?
Looks good, piano black is great but pretty much gets dirty and scratches as soon as you look at it. I've polished a few pieces for people over the last year.
You've done beautiful custom work on the interior. Love to see a husband/wife team at work like this. I wish I could get my wife more involved. But my question is, you've invested so much into making the interior look better, what have you done to the engine to keep it running good? Any preventive items like the IMS bearing, expansion tank, water pump, AOS, belt, etc?
Gotta say, when I saw this thread I thought, "Oh great, another jackleg is gonna try and update his 996 and end up making it lame". I apologize sir, I was wrong. looks great!
AOS blew up a coupe days after we bought it, so that was done. Strut mounts and CV boots changed. Thermostat was replaced. Have talked about IMS. It was changed at the car's last major service. We will change it out, but will have to wait. The IMS Solution was quoted as $7000 to us, so at that price, its a no. Will look at alternatives. Car passed it's PPI with flying colours though (but didn't catch that AOS that blew up.
I would see if you can talk with the shop that did the IMS, depending on what they did your literally looking at
40K+ Miles or much more before it needs any more done if they did it Hartech style its almost indefinite.. ,
just do regular oil testing. and the price you were quoted sounds relatively high.. Although the tip is a bugger form what I'v read.
But honestly,, the awesome work you've done so far is harder than doing the IMS..
Oh yes ... alot! But all electronics, programming and interior stuff. Only suspension mods so far. I am now trying to retrofit air conditioned seats, and that is taking a fair bit of time to figure out to make it work with OEM buttons I sourced from a Taurus.
It is on our mind. We are thinking next year, but not that IMS Solution. Need a much more budget friendly option.
And, yes, we are changing oil every 6000km instead of the 12000km recommended and looking for signs. Did 2 oil changes so far and looks good.
Trust me, it is us doing it. I planned the wiring for the ambient lighting and illuminated door sill, and I do the stitching, but shes, disassembling and reassembling everything, and helping with the gluing of the fabric. The dash was all her. It is fun.
Pictures coming later today.
OK, finally done the ambient lighting. Now I know there will be some that think this is stupid, but we like it and it is a fun feature.
On many new cars, you can turn on footwell and cupholder lights.Ford from 2005 - 2010 or so had this, but it was not integrated into the cluster or infotainment unit. It was separate from everything else. It was a control module, lights and a switch. This was perfect. So I got a console with lights and the control module. Got a Porsche footwell light switch and modified that to work with the system. Even got the light in the switch to change colour to show which colour was selected.
For the cup holder, I had to make the light ring from scratch myself, but I like how it turned out.
For this project I got the parts, figured out the wiring, and she did the splicing and soldering.
Here is a YouTube video of it.
You Tube
Puddle lights were from eBay and for a Panamera, but they pop right in with no issues.
I will later. It is the OEM footwell switch I modified.
I can post the schematics and such to do this and the parts needed if someone requests it. Need to be handy with a dremel and soldering wires.
Really? That is bad quality! They are not complicated items, either. I would look for another pair from someone else and switch the symbol. Who did you get it from?
I believe you originally posted the link to Amazon a few months ago, correct? If not, whoever posted it here, I got them from the link.
Figure it is too late to request a new set or refund, but I left a comment about it. I've seen other companies automatically send out a new item when defective like that
dremeled out the center and will place the illuminated flat panel underneath the hole. Will repaint it to say Carrrera 4 or something.
The colour of the light can change. I'll use the old spoiler switch on the fuse box to toggle the colours.
I'm always impressed when I see your work. Nicely done all around. Impressive skills.
I don't love the aesthetic the Germanic stripes myself, but am glad you're having fun experimenting. It kind of reminds me of "tuner" type VW/Audi stuff.
Also, that picture reminds me of something I always find odd. I see the Porsche on the mats and airbag - we seem to put logos on everything. Why do we need to have everything have the brand all over it?? Are we going to forget what kind of car we are in without it? Lol
It is screwed in from behind. His is an extra from my old dash.
And yes, I do recognize that the flor mats and airbag keep reminding what car it is, bit it is some fun in the interior, and it breaks up all that black.
New add on for when the car gets parked.
Illuminated door sills. Again using Ford parts. Ill use the old spoiler switch in the footwell to change the colour of the LEDs.
Dremelled out the center of the door sill and will use the Mustang back light.
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Excuse me, Sir, you should be working at Stuttgart, I'm sending my car to you to do the blue stitching, what an impeccable job an hours that you pour into the car, very nice built. !!!!!
OP, you've done beautiful work. Hands down some of the best I've seen on the forums over the years. But I wonder if once you've done all the cosmetic stuff you'll become bored and long for something new or experience engine failure and realize you've spent all of your money on cosmetic upgrades. Just my thoughts. Not meant to be hurtful or anything. Good luck in the future. I've enjoyed reading your thread.
Thanks. We appreciate the compliments !
I'm always confused by the few that feel the priorities for my wife's car are screwed up and try to gently tell me to snap out of it and focus on the mechanical. Strange ... I'm not offended by them, i just find those comments puzzling. I could go on about the AOS, strut mounts, blend doors, new tires, IMS etc that we did and the maintenance we do and the maintenance we have planned, but precious little is posted about the interior mods , so i post about that and hopefully inspire others. While driving this car is fun for my wife (I don't drive it much at all), I enjoy working on helping her personalize it. These little touches add a little bit of fun to an otherwise bland interior. Modifying the interior is just another way to have fun.
Anyway, i got the door sill LEDs working again. Will modify to say Carrera 4 or something. Just waiting on her to finish taking the old sills off and clean up the stuck on tape. Cant seem to load the video though. Will try later.
This will be the last mod for awhile as the interior is mostly done. We'll do an Alcantara headliner at some point. Also the 12 way power seats will make their way into this car and maybe a new slicker nav unit.
Not much for updates. I still haven't finished the door sills, even though they are all wired up.
Car needs a new voltage regulator, which we will install this weekend. Also having the car go in next week for a comprehensive engine inspection so we can make a decision about whether or not to put in the IMS Solution.
Our (US) Thanksgiving is in November. Fourth Thursday. Most think of it as a time to give thanks for all that they have. I'm sure you and your wife must be thankful for the times you share together, and for your passion of making
Sally
so special.
For whatever reason I thought you were in Hawaii....now I remember that's Bill. No, our Thanksgiving is 6 weeks from now. Interestingly....today is Columbus day which we seem to be trying to forget.
What was the trick to getting the alternator out without pounding on the bolt to push the bushing back? That can be very difficult to accomplish without air tools.
John
Hi Jim,
im in the process of updating my 99 996 to a 02 and later dash to get the glove box.
Do you have a photo or part number for the �central dash frame � that you mention in the quote above?
Thanks,
Carl
Carl, I'm still amazed how many people go through the trouble to change out there mk1 dashes to just get the mk2 glove box. Is it really worth all the work? Some people have complained that the dashes don't go back in as perfectly as the original factory installed ones. Maybe Jim can offer some advice on that?
Hello Professor,
i don�t think I would have gone to the trouble if the only reason was the dash but I�m in fixing the heater flap issue and rearranging the console, adding USB ports etc. Therefore getting a glove box is just an added bonus!
The dash really is not a big deal to take out. And Carl, since you are taking it off to take care of the heater flap and other electrical, then its a perfect time for that. I also took the opportunity to reupholster the dash, too.
Are you changing out the air vents to get the cup holders as well? If not, you will need to do some modding of the existing central air duct.
Wish I had taken a picture, but I didn't of the V bracket you will need.
I got this picture from Ebay, though. This is a bracket that goes in front of the central air ducting and attaches the dash frame to the 'transmission' tunnel on the floor. Where I circled in red, there needs to be a metal brace that sticks out from the V tht allows the glovebox brace to attach to. You need a V bracket/brace.frame whatever its called from a 996.2
Also, if your car is US spec (mine was not) then you will have a metal bar that goes along the bottom of the dash that you will need to remove. You do not need to put it back in, as non-US cars don't have it.
So to be clear, the v bracket is the same for with or without glove box. Yes?
I did pick up this part below from dc Automotive.
Glove box support bracket.
Just not quite sure where on the V bracket it attaches. Did you have to drill any holes? I also have ordered on eBay a updated center air distribution piece along with both Rh air distribution pieces. The straight part and the elbow up to the dash.
Thank you for your help!
No they are not. You need a V frame from a glove box car, so 02 - 04. So as I explained in my post above, where I circled os a metal bracket that sticks out and is attached on the V frame you need. The picture i showed IS NOT the one you want.
Quote �Wired up the USB to illuminate as well. Have to wait until dark to show that.�
Jim,
while I�m waiting for the Y bracket and some ducts to arrive I thought I�d go ahead and add some USB ports. Where did you source yours from?
Thanks!
I was randomly browsing the 996 forum and found this........I must say this is one of the most impressive work I've seen in years....and there's no short of talented people on this forum....Great work!!
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They will all be lit. Haven't decided if it will be in white or the blue I have all the other switches.
Still working on getting the steering wheel right. Harder than it looks.
Steering wheel is done. Gave up and had Dallas Custom do it. I was doing good, but just couldn't get it looking snug so I gave up. Will practice on a different wheel.
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It can't be a straight up covering, though. Airbag needs to rip open through the perforations. Didn't want to do the diamond pattern I see on all the leather covered airbags, but looks like I have no choice.
Thanks.
No, the seats are above my skills. Although they will need to be reupholstered in the near future with blue stitching as well. The headliner I want to redo in alcantara in the summer, but it can wait.
As for more emblems, maybe, but I am thinking that I have a touch too much on the dash. Deciding which one has to go. Already removed the German flag stripes from the silver trim. I liked it, but was too much.
Added a rear camera to the car to go with the new Pioneer we bought for it. Had to remove a good chunk of the interior trim just to get access to that stupid grommet in the back to get the wire through ... and then having to get the wire through that stupid grommet, oh my god ...
That is my son working in the interior. Wife is changing out the bulbs for the parking lights that are burnt out. She noticed the wires for the signal lights were brittle and the plastic was flaking off ... maybe this was the cause of our signal light problem. She soldered in new wires and all good now.
Just when we thought that we were done taking the interior apart, after a dumping of rain we have a very wet door carpet by the speaker. The dreaded door membrane from what I have read on here.
Going to try caulking. The Porsche rubber seal is expensive ... if that doesn't work, guess we'll have to try the rubber seal. Don't think we need a new membrane. Although it wqs pretty wet there.
I use this for resealing door membranes:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08620-Window-Weld-Ribbon-Sealer/dp/B0039752R2/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=butyl&qid=1588685357&sr=8-14
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08620-Window-Weld-Ribbon-Sealer/dp/B0039752R2/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=butyl&qid=1588685357&sr=8-14
It's enough for a bunch of doors.
I normally lay it just inside of the factory seal.
I use it for all manufacturers.
It sure beats duct tape!
Once the membrane is off, check and make sure the two drain holes in the bottom of the door aren't clogged up. They are more like slits. I have a picture somewhere.
Can't find the picture, but here is a good thread on the subject
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...r-panel-2.html
Thanks Tex and Joe. I did read those and were helpful. I am quite surprised at how much water comes down on the membrane side of the door. A little concerning.
I hope this is the last time we take apart any interior panel ...
I was going to suggest to also check the window door seal and window glass seal. You can adjust the glass to seal angle to increase the pressure on the seal. The bolts in the bottom of the door for the window regulator allow the glass to move either inward or outward to adjust the "rake" of the glass and how much it puts pressure on the window seal. Before you replace the membrane and door panel, give it all a test with the garden hose. Don't start the car with the air bag removed. Air bag light will come on and will not go off without Durametric or similar.
Too late, lol! I have had that stupid airbag light on now for half a year. I keep meaning to reach out to club members around here to see if there is someone with a durametric that can reset that for me.
And thanks for the tip on the adjustment. I'll try that this afternoon and test to see if it makes a difference.
Don't know why, but I never looked at this thread until today....all I can say is HOLY COW! I am subscribed. Already have gotten a bunch of new ideas now.
Had to take the bumper off to clean up the debris in and behind the radiators. Took the opportunity to clean up all the black molding. Still looked bad, so my wife sprayed it all in satin black Plastidip. Looks really good now!
Was replacing the Y cable on the car today. Was such a joy taking that stupid alternator off. Did the hot water trick to take the plastic box off the one end of the cable. Was putting everything back together, got the alternator back in, and then broke the oil filler tube ...
Soooo happy ...
Now to dissasemble more of the engine and wait a week for a new replacement piece.
... soooo happy ...
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Well, Pelican Parts sent me a new oil filler tube and it was overnight. I was pleased, other than having to spend $140 cdn
on it.
It wasn't so bad to take out the old one or put in the new one. Just needed the alternator out, which it was anyway. We've taken out that alternator 3 times now. Now have the removal procedure down pat - no hammering or anything. Just gentle prying of the alternator got it out. The hammering of the pin always made me squirm. Did it the first time and it didn't budge anyway, but with a crowbar, the gentle prying was far more effective in getting it out ... and way less likely to break anything.
With the new Y cable in there, volts are back up. Had the alternator bench tested, and it is good. Only thing left is the ground strap if the problem comes back, I suppose.
Here is the alternator and new oil filler tube in place.
Been there had to do the oil filler tube. Took 2 days to get the alternator out...At least you know how to get it out now! One of the worst parts of the job was getting one of the bolts started on the back of the filler tube. Best of luck!
I did not use the lower Metra kit part. I used the lower cubby from Porsche and then shaved down the original trim piece for the HVAC to fit. Then had to trim the console frame to allow the HVAC to go into the upper slot and make mounting points. It was pretty easy, but a little work involved. I used instructions from someone else that did the mod, but I can't find the link anymore. I'll keep looking.
**I cannot find the link that gave precise instructions on how to modify the lower cubby to accept the HVAC in the upper position! Maybe start a thread and post a question on the forums here. Can't believe I can't find it ...
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but why use Plasti Dip instead of spray paint? I also would like to refresh those parts on my car, just not sure what to use...
I didn't just paint the trim around the grill openings, but also the ducting behind them as well. I went with PlastiDip for a couple reasons. In that area, debris hitting it will be common and paint will just get chipped leading to paint peeling. PlastiDip resists chipping way better, in my opinion. And while the trim is hard plastic, the ducting in behind them are not - kind of rubbery. Paint on rubbery plastic will work so well, so again, I chose PlastiDip.
Something new to share.
This one took me awhile to do as we were not sure how to do it. We had to teach ourselves about making circuits, diodes, transistors, relays etc in order to make this one work. It seemed simple enough, but it really wasn't.
Now there will be those of you that will ask 'why on earth did you bother to do this?'
Answer is - because it is fun. I really like doing this sort of thing. I hate blank buttons, so we made it a mission to find a purpose for all the blanks. Now we have all blanks with switches that do something.
Now the car never did over heat, but when running at the high end of engine temps, ;the oil pressure at idle was low. Still looking into that one. Seems to be common. Will run thicker oil next time and see what that does. Also there is heat soak with the charging system when that engine bay is hot. Replaced the ground strap and the alternator Y cable. Improved, but heat soak is still there. Alternator checked fine, so still looking at that.
In either case, we had seen that others had installed a switch to turn on the cooling fans manually. This seemed interesting, so we looked at the different ways people had done it both on here and on renntech. Wanted an OEM switch to do the job, but had no more empty spot left except for the spot next to the headlight switch. On European cars, there is a rotary switch here to level the headlights. So we bought one of these off of ebay and took it apart to see what it would take to repurpose it for fans. Turned out to be a lot more work and know-how than I figured. Whether or not it was needed was no longer the point. I wanted to see if it could be done, and in the end we did! It works, and its cool. I like how it turned out! It was fun figuring this one out.
So the rotary switch now has a fan symbol instead of a headlight symbol. It lights up the same colour as the rest of the buttons in the car (we changed all interior button from orange to blue) when the headlights are turned on. To turn on the low speed fans, rotate the dial up and the symbol lights up yellow. Turn it down for the high speed (and the engine fan as well) and it turns red. Getting the lights to work was the hardest part to figure out.
The automatic function of the fans is not affected by this at all. In fact, the indicator lights will turn on when the car switches the fans on, so you can tell when the hgh or low speeds are on, which is cool.
Any way, here it is. I'll post a how to if anyone wants to know how it was done.
Its not so bad. I am happy to help anybody that wants to do this. I am typing up a How-To on Renntech for anyone that wants to do this.
Here is the wiring diagram, in case anyone wants to know how it works:
Here are the instructions on how to do the rotary switch.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ling-fans.html
Its a little involved, so if you are not comfortable with electronics, this will not be for you ...
Jim, this thread is amazing. I'm really interested in teaching myself to sew like this. I'm very impressed that you're self taught and that gives me some hope. Can you share any tips for how you got started learning this? Specific youtube videos, practice projects equipment that you use/like?
Trial and error. There were times we had to rip things apart and start over - sometimes 2 or 3 times, even. After a while, you learn some tricks and such. I did not use ay youtube videos or anything, as we had a little bit of know how already going into this. Just remember to always leave a good few inches of gap in your patterns, use a good quality machine that can handle heavy material, use fade resitant thread, and make sure you use the right glue, or it will all come apart on the first hot day.
A staple gun that uses small staples would be helpful too.
Well, finally completed another project that was started and never finished. We made the lettering on the shifter plate illuminate in white when the lights are on. Looks a bit blurry in the photo, but they are crisp.
Spent the day trying to diagnose a problem with the car today.
Yesterday I took the car to the grocery store. Started no problem. I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. Parked the car and walked into the grocery store. 30 min later, I came out and thecar would'tstart. Battery was low, but still had power - just not enough to turn the car over. But I didn't hear any clicking of the solenoid. I did notice a whirring sound coming from the back. Sounded like a drill. I aturned the car off, but the noise did not stop. I opened the engine cover to see if it wasthe fans, but nope. Sounded like it was further up in the engine. Only thing I could think it was would be the starter as it is the only other electric motor in there. Even with the key out, it wouldn't stop, so I had to disconnect the battery and get the car towed home.
So today I looked online to see if soeone else had a similar issue. I did find this:
https://community.cartalk.com/t/whir...ine-off/102737
So I took out the rear relay box and pulled out relay #7, and reconnected the battery. No key in the ignition, and the starter came on and did not stop, but it was not engaging the engine. Just spinning. Disconnected the battery and started to take stuff out to get at the starter...
What a pain ... I had to remove:
air box
throttle body
alternator - I hate this one
power steering reservoir
large air intake
all sorts of tubes
Finally got the starter out, but those 2 bolts where tight.
Anyway, I bench tested the starter and it seemed to work just fine. Spin and the gear came out to engage.
So I put everything back together and reconnected the battery. Starter did not go on as before, and teh car started just fine.
So ... my question is, does anyone know what would cause a starter to go on and stay on even with thekey out of the ignition, and wjhywe taking everything apart and back together again seemed to solve the problem? Only thing I could think of was that something was being grounded, but why would the starter spin and not engage? And why did it resolve itself when I took everything apart?
Ideas?
I haven't taken a Porsche starter apart... In other older starters, the solenoid did 2 things: throw out the gear to engage the flywheel and make the main connection for the motor. If this design works the same, the only way the motor would turn without the gear engaging is if there is some short happening in the solenoid. Taking it out and jostling it around may temporarily move the short out of the way. I would recommend taking the solenoid off the starter to look for wayward conductive materials. I've never seen this happen with a starter, but I have seen it with a turn signal switch. The copper contacts wore and left copper shards in the grease that all the contacts were covered in. The turn signals would intermittently not turn off. Good luck!
Hmm ... I may have to go back i there and take the starter out again and look at the solenoid in more detail.
I really do not want to take it out again ...
Wait for someone else to chime in. This is a WAG. Most of the problems I've seen with solenoids are where the contactors become so corroded the connection to the motor is not made well and the motor never turns. So all you get is the click of the gear being thrown out to engage the flywheel. Or, the slow motor from heat soaking. My Cayenne is doing this now. If I get the engine hot, shut it off, and try to restart it in a short period before the heat has dissipated, the motor will turn very slowly for the first couple of turns. In this case, it is the center of the motor expanding and rubbing. Rotor & stator interference?
So u went through all the trouble and labor to pull the starter and decided that this 20 something year old electronic item thats known to have hot starts issues wasnt worth the $200 to swap out? Me thinks u will be much faster the second time
.
Hah!
Well I bench tested it and it worked fine, therefore I concluded that the issue had to be something else. As for this being a known issue, that is wrong. I could not find this as being a problem on any Porsche, and seems to be rare in starters in general. So I put it back together since I couldn't find anything.
Anyway, if anyone with know-how can chime in?
Starters can get funky from age in a number of ways, they have plain bearings/bushings, copper contacts and motor brushes etc.
With age lubricants get gummed up with dust, debris and parts don't move as freely as new.
Personally if I had taken off the starter i would of at least stripped it and re-greased it, cleaned the contacts and brushes and examined the brush wear.
Its possible that on bench testing the starter you had it spinning faster than normal due to no load (flywheel) so it partially freed it up, if so it might only be a matter of time before it gums up again?
I have zero experience with Porsche starters, but I have had several starters fail in the past. One of my failures was the starter on my '72 Charger got damaged by excess heat from the headers and it failed in a similar way. It would spin, but the solenoid would not activate and push the gear forward to engage the ring gear. Another was a 1973 Opel GT and the 40+ year old starter solenoid gave up and did the same thing. It would spin, but the solenoid would not propel the gear forward to engage with the flywheel. When I bench tested it if I smacked the solenoid around a bit sometimes the solenoid would activate and push the gear forward. There were no aftermarket starters available at this time, so I had a shop rebuild it and they confirmed the solenoid was bad. So my guess would be that your solenoid is acting up and that in the removal process you jostled it around enough to get it to work temporarily, but would imagine your issue is likely to come back. The fact that the starter wouldn't stop spinning is strange though.
Thanks for that. After reading other's issues with old non-Porsche cars I am seeing some issues that are similar, and a few that are the same. Some say it is the relay, which I tested and is good, others that it is the solenoid, and others still the ignition switch.
I don't want to start throwing parts at it in the hopes that I will fluke out and get the right thing - I've learned my lesson, as that is just plain stupid. But I think I will bend that rule a little and replace the solenoid on the starter. That is cheap enough. Just trying to find a part number for it.
I have had plenty of starter experience on Porsche (Bosch) starters as well as many other models.
In fact it was common place in Dealerships to do In-house overhauls of starters/alternators in the 70's 80's early 90's when the parts departments and manufacturers made replacements parts easily available.,Lots of different things can go wrong with starters.
The high amperage contacts are definitely subject to wear, or corrosion or micro welding..
If the battery voltage is low when trying to start, the amperage will be even higher than normal ( Ohms Law V=IR ) and will cause burning of the contacts or micro welding of the contacts which can make it stick ON..( a tap on the side can free the micro-weld, but not to hard , you can crack a magnet)..
A full evaluation/testing of the battery/starting/charging system is recommended, as a scenario , you could have had a discharged/faulty battery and now have a damaged starter also.
Good advise is always to test/verify....
Been awhile since I posted. Have done a.ot of things to the car, but mist recent is this weekend. Took put the old roof rack plates as screws were seized and stripped. Put in new ones. Also took out the starter. It has been acting up lately. Already changed out the ig ition switch, but that wasn't the problem. Will get this starter bench tested.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
