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YOUR RESEARCHCoolant pressure test
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Test resulted
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Even a pressure tested resulted on nothing seen or pressure drop.
Leading evidence: 'Test resulted' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill coolant system' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I'm vacuum filling my coolant system from scratch but the system isn't holding vacuum so I have a leak.
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Suggestion
But in this case, it seems to me like it would make sense to replace both.
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Suggestion
Water pumps for instance can actually leak while running but not when the engine is off.
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I didn't see a maximum rating on the blue cap. So I put in 10 psi. It was down to 8 after 1 hour. I didn't see any puddles / leaks / drips on or under the car. No white smoke when I started it.
Is this normal? Considering I might have had a leak at the tester itself.
So I guess the $100 tester vs a mechanic is a wash ... except now I own a pressure tester!
My fluid must have been VERY low. Over 4 days I put in 2 big jugs of coolant. It seemed full each time i filled it but maybe there was a lot of air in the system.
I'll just have to keep an eye on it after this last fill.
I received the car and noticed that the reservoir was below min. No warnings so I figured I'd deal with it after my other immediate concerns.
So no flush.
Definitely losing coolant and I can smell it at the engine.
No visible leaks with uv light.
Obvious cause??
I am going to have IMS solution done this week. I suppose I can have him look at the leak also.
Its not abnormal to have a leak bad enough to smell but not bad enough to drip on the floor. For the past few months my rads have been leaking enough to smell like coolant when the fans kicked on but not enough for me to ever see coolant on the floor. Even a pressure tested resulted on nothing seen or pressure drop. Once your car is put on a lift you will "see" the evidence most likely. Coolant almost always leaves an evidence trail of where it came from and where its been. Water pumps for instance can actually leak while running but not when the engine is off. I am willing to be when you can get time to inspect it on a lift you will see the evidence.
Another thing i just thought about which is common. The expansion tanks / coolant reservior are known for failure as well as the cap. Porsche decided (smart guys) to put the overflow drain tube directly above the exhaust manifold. If this is your issue it can be a very minor leak and the coolant will burn off the second it hits the exhaust. Therefore you will smell it but not see it until the leak gets bigger.
It's interesting to read this today, as my car is currently in the shop for a replacement coolant tank, heater core, and at least one radiator. My car has 114,000 miles on it, and these items have all come up at the same time... I think these leaks have been developing for a while, and it began with a coolant smell when turning on the heat, but it wasn't until I put it away last fall that I finally found a leak under the expansion tank. And then a few weeks ago, I found a second leak under the passenger-side front radiator.
Despite only having a confirmed leak in one radiator, is it recommended to replace both at the same time? My mechanic says I shouldn't throw parts at it, which I usually agree with. But in this case, it seems to me like it would make sense to replace both.
I would think that radiators are easy to replace. Just remove the front bumper. Seeing they can go because of leaf buildup / etc, I would only replace what's leaking.
I would highly suggest both for several reasons.
I thought mine was only leaking on the drivers side as thats where the smell was. I ordered both because i was swapping to CSF all aluminum radiators. Upon tear down it was obvious that both were leaking from the upper tanks.
Since your paying a mechanic to do this the labor to do both at the same time will be cheaper in the long run to do them at the same time.
More than likely they are both the same age and same condition. If one is leaking it stands to reason that the other won't be long before it joins.
Peace of mind is a wonderful thing. Think of how frustrating it would be after the car is done and a month later the other radiator fails. Now we are talking more labor and about $75 more coolant since it all just dumped out on the road.
Well, I am dropping off mine tomorrow. This respectable Porsche speed shop said he would look over the coolant system and do a house / real PPI (a little too late but better than the one that was 'supposedly' done before purchase) before doing my IMS Solution and RMS. Is a RMS recommended if the existing one isn't leaking?
I'll be glad to have these things done. I haven't been able to enjoy driving the car with all the fear of RMS leaks, IMS explosions, Bore scoring, Coolant leaks / overheating, viscous coupler detonation (still working on getting my tires matched), leaking rear windows, ..., ...., ....
I just want to drive it with the top down.
If you have the engine and transmission separated, you'd be making a big mistake not replacing the RMS. It's a $30 part and probably takes less than half an hour labor. Why would you even consider taking a chance on it?
I'm with you on the 'worries'. There are so many potential disasters surrounding these cars. I'm just now getting enough confidence to drive mine more than a day or two at a time. Hope you get yours back soon and start enjoying it.
RMS is no question. Do it
The joys of owning a 996.....every mile will scare the crap out of you in fear of failure and make you smile all at the same time.
Ignore this impulse and just drive the thing. It�s just a car. Go have fun with it and fix it if it needs it, whether preventative maintenace or repair.
So I took it to a guy who knows Porsche. He really knows Porsche. Young kid. He was working on a GT3 when I got there...
He found the problem in less than 5 minutes. I felt dumb but the coolant line connected to the bottom of the water pump was almost off .. and the line clamp was connected at the very edge of the water pump tube. Hell, it probably wasn't even on it.
But it passed the pressure test. Go figure.
He fixed it .. no cost.
He talked like doing any work on the car was nothing. I told him I drive cars to within inches of their life before I let them go. He said, no problem, we'll just do the cylinders @ 200K when they start to score. lol
Bringing it back Monday for the IMS Solution...
Apex Autowerks
in Clifton NJ if anyone is looking. John is the owner, who I worked with.
Hey guys -
I'm vacuum filling my coolant system from scratch but the system isn't holding vacuum so I have a leak.
I'm going to buy a pressure tester but worried that the kit I buy off Amazon won't have a cap to fit.
What kit are you guys using ?
Thanks
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