22 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWere my variocam pads installed backward?
Reported or suspected cause
solenoid, since the wire literally corroded off
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that report identifying a cause
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Reported cause
My issue was the solenoid, since the wire literally corroded off.
Leading evidence: 'solenoid, since the wire literally corroded off' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'solenoid, since the wire literally corroded off' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust tool not just a cam lock tool' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Comes with the timing adjusting tool not just a cam lock tool.
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Suggestion
Therefore, it's a good idea if you purchase a new one, to double and triple check when ordering and not rely on color alone.
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Suggestion
Before you tightened the four bolts that connect the exhaust cam chain to the IMS - you need to insert the hydraulic cam chain tensioner ...but should that chain tensioner be pre-filled/pumped up with oil?
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
I know that PET shows two different part numbers, and the repair manuals state Grey and Black distinctions, but the reality is I've ordered the Gray part # and received a Black solenoid in the box, and ordered a Black solenoid and received one with no color (just metal finish).
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Suggestion
Before you tightened the four bolts that connect the exhaust cam chain to the IMS - you need to insert the hydraulic cam chain tensioner ...but should that chain tensioner be pre-filled/pumped up with oil?
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I know that PET shows two different part numbers, and the repair manuals state Grey and Black distinctions, but the reality is I've ordered the Gray part # and received a Black solenoid in the box, and ordered a Black solenoid and received one with no color (just metal finish).
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Before you tightened the four bolts that connect the exhaust cam chain to the IMS - you need to insert the hydraulic cam chain tensioner ...but should that chain tensioner be pre-filled/pumped up with oil?
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
22 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
With the new one in place, my lumpy idle was back to normal + CEL was gone.
Looked or a while but could not find the answer. I know i have read the about this several times and my bentley book pic shows someone replaced them backward. Yes pads r trashed. These r bank 2, 4-6. Unfortunately i can close it up because i damaged the seliniod wire. So i wont get to bank 1 until u get a new one.
with it in the car the pads r either closer to the crank or closer to the cover. The cams r top and bottom.
i think i bought locktight 5900 for the covers.
The
pads with the oil holes and O-ring on bank 1 go toward the head, On bank 2 it goes toward the cover.
ref:
https://www.renntech.org/topic/50178...t-diy-vs-cost/
No clue if they had been changed before but the car has 202k miles in it. I am also changing the bank 2 seliniod as i damaged the harness and it doesnt look to be the correct one. It should be gray and its clearly black, not sure if u can swap them between banks but porsche has 2 different ones speced so....
Thx Jake, i saw that it was similar to many internet pics so figured it was normal for an end of life pad.
I know that PET shows two different part numbers, and the repair manuals state Grey and Black distinctions, but the reality is I've ordered the Gray part # and received a Black solenoid in the box, and ordered a Black solenoid and received one with no color (just metal finish). All the newer ones seem to be just metal finish.
This caused me to test the function of them, Same resistance, same wire connector, the pin protrudes the same amount when energized, so I have used them on either side and have concluded they are interchangeable. I can't explain Porsches confusion with the color, and Part #'s...except maybe it was a running change that is still not correctly documented ..
Sorry about that..
Let me look in the basement, I think I got a box full of 996.1 actuators, I think some still have the solenoids on them, you can send the $500 one back..
What does BEWM mean ?
nah but i appreciate it. I can afford the new one and i dont really mind. I would rather see one go to someone that couldnt afford it. I dont want to have to pull the bank 2 cam cover for a long time so new is fine.
About to do mine in a few weeks - the wire leading to the bank 1 solenoid has corroded and broke off. bought a new one for $550, crazy expensive!!!
I've researched this project to death, feel like it's space mission training - could bang this out in my sleep.
....famous last words, eh!!
Wasnt that bad, i just followed the bentley book.
two notes:
1. my new cam chain did not have the different color links. I counted 14 links, make sure u count the links between the timing marks jic.
2. The 2 internal cam cover bolts that r allens will not come out unless u have the cam hole down bars from the kit down all the way. The lifters will flex the cam and cause a high torque value on those bolts
De Jeeper,
Before you tightened the four bolts that connect the exhaust cam chain to the IMS - you need to insert the hydraulic cam chain tensioner ...but should that chain tensioner be pre-filled/pumped up with oil? If so, how?
Or, if I mark the four bolts and re-install them in the same spot - will that suffice for timing (assuming it's timed properly before I take it apart).
I'm also a little concerned about you note above, #2. I don't have the cam hold down bars but could likely McGiver something to hold them in place (wood-oak, pre-drilled, washers).
i just poured a half qt of oil in a cup, submerge the tensioner and push in several times until no air bubbles. I would not trust the old marks. The tensioer thing is easy.
I bought the took kit for $99 on ebay. Comes with the timing adjusting tool not just a cam lock tool. U can go cheap but y? The cams will flex so u need some kind of hold downs.
Good news. Engine is back together and running like a champ.
I sourced the flange sealant from Porsche.
De Jeeper was right about the high torque spec on the cam holder caps + I didn't have the bars to hold the cams down. So, since the wear pads looked perfect I left them in. I didn't want to risk stripping the allen head bolts. It was a risk/reward I felt ok about. My issue was the solenoid, since the wire literally corroded off. With the new one in place, my lumpy idle was back to normal + CEL was gone.
Now it's time to mod. the halogen headlights with a projector from Retrofit Source + some suspension work to address the floating front end (coil-overs vs. lowering springs).
When we produced the 5-chain timing videos, we did a special graphic noting to
NOT
rely on colorized parts as the final say, because like torque values, they change. What was a Porsche directive 20 years ago is not the same in 2021. The risk is putting the solenoid on the wrong bank because you're matching it with the color of the 20-year old original one. Therefore, it's a good idea if you purchase a new one, to double and triple check when ordering and not rely on color alone.
The wear pad that wears the worst is the one on the underside of the adjuster. This is the one that can�t be seen for inspection purposes. The inboard wear pad is usually twice as worn as the outboard
Just an FYI for others reading this one later.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
