Trying to get smog keep getting secondary air bank 1 and 2 codes any ideas

If I reset the codes it takes about 2 days then I get bank 1 and 2 secondary air injection codes. I can�t smog it till these clear in Ca. I do a OB2 test and it will show the 8 or 9 modules and when they update. any ideas on why exactly you get that code? What is it actually faulting on? thanks

If you keep getting the codes, then the secondary air injection system is in-operative. Most likely it is the secondary air pump which when failed would affect both banks. Replace it.

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This is my first guess as well. Can you hear the pump run on first cold start?

Before buying the over priced SAI pump, I would bench test it to validate if the pump is faulty, rather than something else (wiring, fuse, relay, etc)

I keep getting a secondary air injection failure code. I've pulled the air pump and tested it and it's fine. I'm guessing I have to go deep and replace the stuff at the exhaust manifold. Doing that this summer. Best,

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I will test it today. Does anyone know what actually triggers the check engine light? There has to be a variable the computer is testing to see if it passes. Like is it testing airflow or just voltage at the source for a certain amount of time each start? It�s my understanding that the air injection only runs for a few minutes at start up. does anyone one know the process sequence of the events that happen. Like if engine is below 100f the pump starts and the changeover valve is energized to let vacuum go from the bottle to the solenoid to open to allow the air to go through etc.. for example that would help to troubleshoot the sequence of events and were it is going wrong. thanks

I always use google to find stuff here. "Rennlist 996 ***" The search function on the site is not very good. There is a lots of good info here about this problem.

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I checked my pump by pulling hose off at a cold start ran strong. I am also having a failed temperature sensor intermittent I wonder if that could throw the code for both banks. I�ll swap that out see if it helps. As I believe I�m getting vacuum to the system. my codes are Engine temp sensor thermostat blocked secondary air system bank 1 secondaty air system bank 2

I went ahead and tested the vacuum at idle. With a vacuum guage i got about 20�hg at idle. Then I connected a tee into the system and the gauge I got 10�hg so I�m guessing I have a leak somewhere in the system. so my question is what is the easiest way to replace all the hoses and vacuum bottle. I need to replace my motor mounts, how much can I lower the engine without having to disconnect a bunch of hoses etc..

Pretty cool that you were able to test your vacuum system. What tool did you use? This is an overview of the SAI system & vacuum system. I'm going to replace all of this over the summer. I attempted it last year, but still have the same SAI code. While I'm there I'll be replacing fuel injectors. Which means I'll be lower the engine on the motor mounts and pulling off the intake manifolds. With them out of the way there will be room to address SAI and vacuum. The tanks are prone to failure.

I had a running battle with SAI code P0410 and his brother P1410 last summer. IIRC my indy explained that when the pump turns on there's an expectation that the oxygen sensors will detect a change, and when that change doesn't happen it'll throw out a code. (could be wrong there, those with true knowledge please correct me). If there's no leaks (the tank is not in a convenient location) the valves (#3 and #5 above) are the usual suspects. #5 is a pain, but doable once you have the alternator out (a pain unto itself). Plenty of DIYs for that action. In my case, it was actually the changeover valve (#11, there's 2 of them). Which, in addition to being the easiest and least expensive to replace, was of course the last thing I tried.

IIRC, it has been couple years ago I had to T.S a SAI fault. one of the steps was verifying that engine temps and outside temps were no more than 15 degree difference after so many hours of shut down when ECM wakes up and does it checks. Its been a while, could be wrong.

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I assume your test gave u "h2o not "hg? Your test is not telling u anything. By opening the system to atmosphere u r creating a vac leak and the vac pressure drops like it should. The drop will be proportional to the diameter of the hole in the T. The formula is out there somewhere. Anyways how did u test? Off the oil cap? If so u have a bad aos too. At the oil cap u should be around -5"h2o. Search for uaos threads. I would guess its the change over valve for the pump since the pump is working. Is your engine temp sensor in the rubber grommet above the ac compressor in the intake? It falls out if not install correctly and triggers false readings.

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Well I hooked up a standard automotive vacuum gauge pictured below. First directly to the check valve coming out of the boot on the left of throttle body and at idle I had 20�hg Then I connected with a tee into the vacuum system so there was no openings. My thought was if there was no leaks vacuum should be the same 20�hg. But it wasn�t it was 10�hg so somewhere farther down the line I�m losing vacuum. I also have a hand vacuum pump I can use to test the system or each piece of it to find the leaks. I was just wondering what the least disruptive way is to get to the parts in the back of the engine (vacuum bottle SAI injection valve changeover valve etc. Does the left manifold have to come off? Does lowering the engine on the mounts help? I do know the boots especially the back one on the manifold crossover plenum are a pain to reinstall not looking forward to doing it again. Ca smog headaches

Im pretty sure u can remove the airbox, tb and rear plenum and probably the alt to get to that change over valve. Get yourself a manometer ($30 on amazon) and an oil cap. This will allow u to test the aos and give u an accurate vac picture in the system. Google testing the 996 aos for refferance. There r also smoke machines for under $150 on amazon to test the intakes. I still think it probably the change over valve or wiring to it, its al least where i would start.

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thank you good info I would think I could just hook up the hand vacuum pump to each device and cap off outlet and pump up to 20� hg and see if it holds. yes I�m thinking of lowering engine a couple inches as I wanna change mounts anyway that should make it easier to remove plenum boots and give me more room to reach back to all the devices. I have a tiptronic too so their is a hose connection all the way at the back. I got a deadline to get this baby smogged and on the road doing a track day at big willow on April 2nd

Someone would have to verify but i dont think u can static vacuum test the intake. either way a vac leak would not cause this fault. Reading fuel trims is also a good way to determine vac leaks. U would need a decent scanner and education on how to read the numbers. Some good vids by flat6 out there.

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I've got that same problem. Very interesting that it could be the change over valves. Seems like an elusive problem for a lot of folks. I think solution is going to be to replace everything and keep the car as long as I can. Good conversation. Thx!

I would take a good look at the mode 6 data .When a code is stored in memory it's set up to record data from other related components ,a snapshot . Then you know what the ECM was looking at when it generated the code. dont have access to my repair manual dvd ,I'm not at home,but use one to do the diagnosis procedure and it should lead you to the root cause .As far as knowing when where how each system operates it's in the program protected by manufacturers and the feds. .Yea a tuner can make some changes but there are some that can't be changed unless you can access a "back door" code that engineers put in the program. The check engine light is generated when the ecm sees a 15-20% emissions increase then flags the code of failed system. Sorry for being long winded I have had a smog test and repair license since I was 16 yrs old ,0`. `. `+-+-------------+++ + 0.\[]=po0ik9j8

jws[

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Thanks my guess is the vacuum check valve is not opening because there is enough leaks in the system to not allow enough vacuum when it gets to check valve. im gonna replace the hoses and the t�s and the peirmont changeover valves. And attach the vacuum tool to the check valve and see if I can operate it straight to it. I ordered one today just in case. Thanks for your help I�ll keep you updated.

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I've got a Durametric. Can I find mode 6 data from that? I also have the Torque app. How would I access this? Thx!

Yes most OBD testers will show the mode six data.Do KOEO {key on engine off] after all codes are generated it should have the data available.A scan tool that lets you get live data can help ,but you pay a premium for it . Each tester does it a bit differently you might have to look in menu to access the data ,it might say mode 6,freeze frame,snap shot ,memory something to that effect .I use a ford new generation star scan tool I can monitor and record data selected related to failure code while driving the vehicle .If the code is generated when driving it reords data for 15 seconds before and thirty seconds after code is generated. Most of the diagnostic equipt I have is domestic based,but I can read emissions data and codes for most vehicles. I have added a few tools forthe 996 also. Sorry I can't look at my testers or shop manuals as I'm not at home..

Hey guys, I'm pulling the same codes in my 205k 99 C2. 0410, 0411, I've replaced the SAI pump since mine was locked up. Not getting a signal to the new one at all apparently, probing the contacts just after start up not seeing voltage on either pin. In addition to the codes, the Durametric also shows "signal implausible" after each code. Activation of the SAI thru the Durametric is a no go. Something signal wise is not getting thru. I have checked every single fuse I can find, where are the relays located?

On the rear shelf behind the seats and under the carpet.

Found it yesterday, that big 40a blown wide open. Popped a new one in and the SAI is spinning again just like it should. Too bad I already bought another SAI pump, after I rebuilt mine and it didn't work. I plugged my rebuilt pump in and it now works too, so I have a spare. DBJoe, that diagram of the relays is great though, thanks!