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YOUR RESEARCHAnyone used electric cutouts instead of Fister?
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minimum 2.5" diameter
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Leading evidence: 'minimum 2.5" diameter' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'minimum 2.5" diameter' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust sound level' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
You just need to get out of your car to adjust the sound level.
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Suggestion
There's a reason why all OEM's uses a vacuum based mechanical actuator.
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Has anyone considered electric cutouts instead of / in addition to Fisterizing their stock mufflers?
I'm imagining a 2" electric cutout near the end of the muffler pipe (where it clamps to the catalytic converter), ideally that dumps into the exhaust tip or, if that's not possible, ending in a short downpipe (like a turbo dump pipe).
I want the Fister effect, but I also want the ability to return the noise level to stock (for the wife and the neighbors).
This is a CRUDE depiction of what I'm thinking, but hopefully sufficient to get the point across.
Lunacy? Ghetto nightmare?
Electric cutout eventually seizes as the motor can't deal with the heat, not to mention any carbon buildup. There's a reason why all OEM's uses a vacuum based mechanical actuator. The aftermarket ones maybe ok for a weekend car but I doubt it will last 80-100k miles on a DD.
This is the most budget friendly and most reliable solution. You just need to get out of your car to adjust the sound level.
I don't mind the thought of replacing them occasionally if necessary. There are also vacuum-actuated aftermarket valves...looks like I need to do some research.
My preference is to avoid an abomination like that depicted in Alp's attachment...
I recently did this mod on my car (fister, not plumbing)
Its totally not loud or anoying. It adds the correct Porsche sound w/o the drawbacks of aftermarket drone etc.
Under 3k RPM you can keep it very wuite in your neighborhood.
I would imagine that the "correct Porsche sound" is the one that comes from the factory. All this talk of louder makes me think of my 57 Chevy with glaspak mufflers. It was when I put stock mufflers back on that I could actually hear the engine and the transmission. I quickly grew to prefer that over a loud exhaust.
Johnny, there were a few different flavors of "Porsche sound" that has come from the factory. But not everyone is willing to pay $4300+ for a "factory" sport exhaust option.
Here's my stash...
Since Porsche offers multiple muffler configurations, which one is the "correct Porsche sound?" Is it the base muffler, or do you have to shell out for Porsche Sport Exhaust to get the "correct" version?
I am eternally grateful that you were brave enough to share your touching exhaust-related "coming of age" story. Understanding how you came to reject the cold, soulless artificiality of aftermarket exhaust components, ultimately culminating in a pure intrinsic appreciation of stock mufflers, is an epiphany I can only dream of reaching on my own some day.
Gotta agree with you here.
I think my car sounds great and i do not feel the need to play with it to make it louder.
Kinda reminds me of when we where kids sticking paper in our spokes to make that motorbike sound on bicycles.....
Yea, they look pretty good. They also have smaller diameter ones and even electrical ones that are closer to what Schnell asked for.
http://www.quality-tuning.com/hjs-exhaust-valves
http://www.quality-tuning.com/exhaust-sound-controller
I think $300 for each side just for the valves is going to be hard to swallow for most.
How about settling for one of these for a few bucks?
XLR8 Test Drive - YouTube
