Brake pad and disc question

I put brembo discs and pads on my car about 3k ago. It�s always squealed and leaves a lot of dust. I can�t take it anymore so I am going to fix. The discs are not smooth but a bit wavey. Do you think I can get these machines and just buy different pads? Thanks

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I don't have any experience with Brembo rotors or pads but the rotors shouldn't be warping after only 3000 miles. Maybe a caliper issue that has pads dragging on the rotor?

Both sides? Been squealing since I put them in. No noise before. I�m assuming pads are toast, but is it likely I can save discs?

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Sounds like you just need a different set of pads that aren't quite as abrasive. Just make sure you bed them in. Doubt the rotors are warped.

Try some ceramic pads for steel rotors, if you can find 'em to fit those rotors... They produce a LOT LESS dust with steel rotors... Steel rotors start squealing like a garbage truck, A glaze builds up with a lot of driving like my wife would do. Hit the brakes HARD a couple times from 90-100 down to 20-30 mph, and the squealing generally goes away for a couple weeks.

Maybe not warped. I�m not explaining correctly. I can feel those lines on the discs as I run my finger from outer edge inward. Should I clean and then try the hard stops or just do the hard stops? Ive done pads before on all my car (Boxster being the closest) and never had this problem.

Ideally, you don't want to mix pad compound on the same set of rotors.

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The lines are normal from wear. I'll take a picture of my Brembo discs tomorrow and you can see them. The only cleaning you need to do will come from the braking. Find a big open parking lot and do some heavy braking. 60 to 10 mph, 80 to 20, 100 to 20. It's actually the same with a bedding process.

Picture of front and back. Brembo 2 piece slotted 355F and 345R from Brembo GT Kit. Weather has been cold so I haven't driven the car for a week so the rotors are a little rusty after a car wash a week ago. But you can see that the rotors are not smooth as glass. You will get lines, groves and rust after they get wet. Front Rear

I have had the exact same issue with the squealing on brembo discs and pads. After about 2k miles they don't do it as much. My local indie advised me the noise is normal when not using OEM pads. Apparently Porsche has a proprietary compound to make them quiet. And OEM are Zimmermann I believe. As far as the circles go I seem to have that as well but the brakes perform very well so I didn't worry about it.

Look try to deglaze the pads and rotors hit an empty road do make sure it�s an empty road hit 80/90 and apply panic stop 3x then hit 70 and come to a full stop and let them come to a complete cool down

Do you mean like 100-0 as if a deer ran in front of the car. I didn�t read in brembo instructions. 😀😀😀

And after the panic stops and the discs are hot don't hold your foot on the brake pedal while stopped.

A couple of concepts to be aware of with bedding brakes. 1. When the dealer tells you that you need new brakes, they will replace the pads and rotors at the same time, regardless if the pads or rotors still have life in them. This is because it's easier and safer for them due to the bedding process working pretty quickly just driving around town. 2. But if you replace either the pad or rotors, the new replacement part will be perfectly flat and the old brake part that you keep will not be. So your brakes will not work as well at first until they "wear" together. You can still bed them in with street driving but it will take longer than if you replace both rotors and pads at the same time. 3. Track bedding is completely different with both the pads and rotors being new or just one of the two. You still need to bed them in if you want to be able to slow down at high speeds, but you also have to go thru a more elaborate "heating" exercise to make sure you don't glaze the pads, or you will not be able to slow. Once the pads are glazed, you will need to either remove them and grind them to eliminate the glaze or replace them. However, there is nothing wrong with some heavy braking on a vacant road or parking lot to exercise the brakes and "clean" them a bit. If you do this and your brakes get good and hot, don't stop the car and hold your foot on the brake, nor put on the emergency brake. You will run the risk of warping the rotors, or transferring some materials from the pad to the rotor creating an out of round rotor, or fusing your emergency brake. If you have to stop the car after a spirited session of braking, put it in neutral with your foot off the brake when you come to a stop. But the better course of action is to drive the car at 10-20 mph to cool the brakes down. Keep in the back of your mind that street driving doesn't create enough heat to create these problems.

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Yup, that's what removed most noise from mine

I'd just change the pads and see if it improves the noise, dust, etc. I've been very happy w Akebono pads for street driving. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...17#description if you are bothered by squeal, don't forget to replace/reuse the dampers as well: https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog...BRKPAD_pg4.htm

I had Brembo pads for about 1500 miles and then swapped to Akebono. The Brembo pad were terrible! I'm much happier with the Akebono pads. My suggestion is swap pads and give away the slightly used Brembo pads.

Glenn and others are right. It�s most likely the pads. I have Akebono pads. They do not squeal at all. Some pads do squeal and if they are track or performance/racing pads, how you know is try getting some heat in there by stopping really hard like you are street racing. Once heat builds up in the pads, they will probably stop squealing. For awhile anyway. The squeal will return. Pads are either good on the street, but fade out and soften on the track, or they are loud and hard on the street and don�t stop well, but good on the track. Not often is a pad good at both.

Do you have the OEM pad dampers? Those of us who track and frequently change pads remove the pad dampers plus most track pads squeal anyway. Some pads are more prone to squeal than others. Bedding is to get pad transfer on to the rotor. Multiple, safe 70 or 60 to 30 "stops" to get the rotors and pad hot. Your nose should tell you when they are hot. New rotors will be shiny, a gray film indicates pad transfer.

I just went out and did the 70-20 a bunch. I could never smell the brakes but they did lock up a bunch. Anyhow, It�s still squealing that few seconds before I stop. I feel like I am just pounding on the car now. I think I�ll try the pads above and see what happens. With new pads, do I the still do the steps above? Thanks everyone.

Yes bedding in hard will give a better brake feel

How�s trw pads? Remember, street driving not racing around. Pagid? Thanks.

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I have been running pagid yellows for over 10 years. I wouldn't run anything else. They will make noise in cold weather. Grippy as hell and will grind down your rotors and make lots of dust. But they slow the car better than anything else. If anyone asks about noise, I say, "Sure, they are racing brakes."

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Kitc, didnt catch your last sentence which is a critical point. "New rotors will be shiny, a gray film indicates pad transfer." A good example of this can be seen on the pictures on post 10 of my rotors. These rotors have seen quite a few "beddings" and track days with Pagid Yellows. Good to compare and contrast the pictures of Argeo's relatively new rotors.

I got rid of the brembo today and stuck in some Ate pads. Not sure if the car brakes any better or worse but the squeal is gone. For my driving style, I�m sure these pads are fine.