35 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHIgnition issue. My girl wont start
Leading reported evidence
Run perfect
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I need help my girl wont start and it ran perfect when I parked it.
Leading evidence: 'Run perfect' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'sensor like the clutch switch' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check engine ground lead' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause
If its not getting the 12v start signal then its probably a sensor like the clutch switch.
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Suggestion
I mentioned this before, but did you check the fuses that commonly blow?
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
35 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
2 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
At a loss, I did the whole thing over again and it worked.
I have a 99 c2. I drove it into storage. When I went to start it nothing happens. Put a new battery in all lights alarm everything works except turning to start position and nothing at all but no electrical drain or anything. Put new ignition switch in and it didnt change anything. No crank no clicking no nothing. Trying to find a diagragm of what the switch pins go to. I need help my girl wont start and it ran perfect when I parked it.
Do you have voltage at the battery disconnect point in the engine bay, next to the power steering cap?
Any signs of rodents getting into the cabin air filter or under in intake manifolds?
U can pull the tb and rear most crossover tube to get a meter on the starter. If its not getting the 12v start signal then its probably a sensor like the clutch switch. On a 99 it would be pin 24 or 25 (yellow) on the big x59/1 connector in the engine bay if u didnt want to dig into the starter. A bad starter relay is also possible.
First place I would start is at the jumper point in the engine bay. You have to have 12V+ there to begin with. Here is the 12V+ power diagram, and note that the power distribution box has fusible 80 amp links in there that have been known to blow, particularly when replacing the battery. All good grounds at battery, engine ground wire? Check the relays in Relay Support Group 2?
Always check the fuses first. They are the electrical system safety net. There are a bunch that can go that result in no cranking: B8, C1, C2, C3, C4, E1.
Ok for those trying to help with my ignition problem and anyone that can here is my latest. New battery new ignition switch and still no start or even a sound when trying. I hooked up my durametric and this is what I have the alarm codes are from alarm 148 and 132 both have same codes so I would assume it's from p 1602
P1602 is because the battery was disconnected. It will go away once you get the car started. Those other codes don't matter. Now, back to why it doesn't start.....
Just for the sake of clarity, this isn't really an ignition problem. Ignition refers to spark, and if the engine isn't cranking yet, we can't yet know if the ignition system is working or not working. This is a no-crank issue.
Is this a stick or auto? If auto, make sure it's in park, or perhaps try starting it in neutral. If stick, makes sure there is nothing stuck under the clutch pedal, like a wad of carpet.
I'm beginning to not understand. Did you check to see if you have 12V+ at the jump point in the engine bay? Did you check the engine ground lead? Did you check to see if you have 12V at the starter? These are all the places to start and until these simple checks are done no amount of other forum guesses are going to help. Also, the start relay in Relay Support Group 2.
As a former locomotive electrician I agree with DB and Imo start with the simple things because that is the where you will find most problems. Do the "voltage present" checks to see which way to go from there.
Tim - please see my post above on the Relay Support Group 2 relay locations. See the one that says Start/Lock? This relay location is on the shelf behind the back seats. Put the seats down and lift up the carpeting. You will find them there. I don't mean anything by it, but have you checked the points indicated for 12V? Do you have a multimeter?
I'm going to when I get home from work Ive been taking screen shots if the post so I can start checking. I've checked everything by the battery and everything under the dash
11.5 V at the jump point in the engine bay may not be enough to kick the starter solenoid. I know in your first post you said you put in a new battery. Was that before or after storage? You need to get your battery charged up. You should have 12.5 to 13.1V at the jump point in the engine bay. Get a battery charger/maintainer and plug it in the cigarette lighter socket to charge up the battery, or, using the jump points in the engine bay, try to jump the car from a running vehicle to see what happens.
I just put it in when I started trying to figure this out. It probably was 12.5 to 13 when I first started trying and it didnt start then. Its depleted slightly from all the messing around. It's not the battery cause I checked it in my boxster to make sure
Maybe I should have been clearer (and I know the car was not starting with the original switch so you replaced it) - what brand and part number? The reason I ask is some others have replaced the electrical part of the ignition switch with an Audi or VW part and it didn't work.
I would try installing it again, although I don't know why. When I replaced mine over the winter the first time I installed it, the car wouldn't start. At a loss, I did the whole thing over again and it worked.
Don't quote me, but I think the second time was a success because I held the ignition switch down while I screwed it in. Also, I bought the switch that is in the car from Autozone, I think its a white label part. Nervous that the Autozone part was low quality, I ordered an OEM part from Pelican but when I went to swap it out, the OEM didn't work. Kind of crapshoot if you ask me.
Tim, you will need to check for voltage at terminal 50 on the back of your starter solenoid.
The smaller of the two connections. You have a '99' so you don't have to remove any components to check
this connection for voltage. Just get a fiberglass driveway marker or a three foot piece of wooden dowel.
Attach your multi tester positive lead using tape to the end guide it back to the solenoid and have someone
try to start the car. You should have voltage if not go to X59/1 connector like Dejeeper mentioned and check for voltage at pins 24 and 25 both should have voltage when trying to start car. If no voltage go to terminal number 30 at the start lock relay location. If no power go to connector X2/3 and so on and so forth. Before doing any of this
make sure your key has the transponder pill inside.
STOP replacing parts that are still good. You can easily introduce another failed component (even if its' new it doesn't mean it's good) and then you will be chasing 2 tings at once. get a multimeter and start TESTING things. If you don't know how, either learn or find someone that can. I'm starting to think you have no idea how to anything other than replacing parts.
I mentioned this before, but did you check the fuses that commonly blow? That is often the problem, especially on 99's. Check
B8, C1, C2, C3, C4, E1. Also, don't just look at them in the darkness of the footwell - test them with a VOM.
It's not the ignition switch it's not the micro switch it's not the relay tested it and the socket. Have power at started. I'm thinking the imobilizer now because of the 2 codes I stated earlier. Any suggestions now.
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