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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHFront truck (frunk) opening by itelf while driving!
Reported or suspected cause
muck
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
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Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
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Reported cause
It turned out to be muck near the switch on the door sill.
Front truck (frunk) opening by itelf while driving!
Read full discussion summary
Leading evidence: 'muck' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'muck' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check cabin' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The tech resealed one membrane and replaced the other and the door bottoms are dry once again.
Front truck (frunk) opening by itelf while driving!
Run air conditioner
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
When it's humid, I run the air conditioner to dry the air blowing into the cabin.
Front truck (frunk) opening by itelf while driving!
Test car, and the trunk still didn't pop open
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I road tested the car, and the trunk still didn't pop open.
Front truck (frunk) opening by itelf while driving!
Test locking the door
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I tested locking the door with the remote...and it worked fine--no opening the trunk.
Front truck (frunk) opening by itelf while driving!
Coverage and how to read this overview
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
29 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 1 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
Since December I have had an unresolved intermittent misfire on cylinder 1 (replacing that plug, coil, and fuel injector did not solve the problem).
My 996.2 has had its share of problems lately. Since December I have had an unresolved intermittent misfire on cylinder 1 (replacing that plug, coil, and fuel injector did not solve the problem).
Starting this week, the front trunk (aka frunk) started popping open every time I unlock the car. This happens with two different key fobs, so I know it's the car and not the key. That's not so bad, because I can just push the trunk shut. What is bad is that the trunk started popping open every time drive. Fortunately there is the manual backup latch, so I can still see where I'm going.
Has anyone else seen or solved this problem?
Yes, more gremlins:
The same day this started, after driving home from work, the radiator cooling fans were on full blast on a cool evening with the coolant temperature gauge right at 180 F (the normal operating temperature). Normally on my car, the coolant temperature must be a lot hotter for the fans to turn on. The engine compartment fan was also on.
The next morning when I hooked up my Durametric, the coolant, oil, and ambient temperatures all read about the same temperature (about 55 F), so they seem OK, at least when cold. I forgot to check the engine compartment sensor.
Hm... Can you check the trunk release switch near the door sill and make sure there isn't any signs of water in there? Also, it's controlled by the alarm control module under the driver seat. Make sure there is no water or damage to any of the wiring in there. If you want to trace the wiring up to the actuator I believe it comes up the left side of the front trunk. You have to remove that plastic trim piece around the brake fluid res and the front trunk carpet. Also, of course, check for faults and you can check to see if the alarm module is getting a command to open the trunk or if it's doing it on its own. You can check this by looking at "actual values/input signals" in the alarm control module via the scan tool. If it's doing it on its own it's probably a wiring issue or the actuator. If it's getting the command it probably has something to do with the wiring at the module actuator or switch by the door switch.
edit: Just saw your new information. Check the front cowl area for standing water. If there is any signs of water make sure you clean the cowl drains very well as those can allow water into weird places.
I have seen zero water leaking into the cabin or the trunk. I just get some window fogging when it's cold. When it's humid, I run the air conditioner to dry the air blowing into the cabin. Fortunately I park out of the rain at work and at home.
Dry in the cabin is important to be sure but the doors want to be dry too.
The door membrane - or window seal -- can leak and let water in the door.
From this water then initially the door lock or window acts up but if the problem is not addressed soon the electrical problems start to show up at other seemingly unrelated areas.
While just recently I checked and found both door bottoms wet on my Boxster there were no electrical gremlins. The tech resealed one membrane and replaced the other and the door bottoms are dry once again.
To the OP then check the cabin for signs of moisture, the body water drains for signs of blockage, but also check the door bottoms for any dampness. If you feel some give the door a shake and listen for water sloshing. Regardless if you hear water or not the door needs to be opened up and the reason for the water in the door addressed. Reseal the membrane or replace it or even replace teh window seals. However, I these latter seem to be pretty durable. The tech had orders to replace them if he felt they needed to be replaced but he said they were fine. The water was getting past leaking/torn membrane.
+1 for checking the front cowl drain to the right and left of the battery. Those drain plugs can easily get clogged and moisture can run down the firewall.
If it fills up it can also destroy your brake booster.
Thanks guys for all of the suggestions. The inside of the firewall was completely dry with no sign of water. Under the brake booster was also dry. The drains to the left and right of the battery had a little crud in them, but I saw no sign that they were plugged up and caused water to fill up that volume.
Inside the cabin, I looked near the button for the trunk and it felt totally dry.
Based on Macster's suggestion, I looked closely at the door. There is a bundle of wires inside of a rubber tube that goes from the body to the body to the door. At the door, the tube was loose, which could allow water to get in. I removed the inside panel, which was a royal PITA. Below is what it looked like after carefully peeling and cutting back the foam sound insulation.
The plastic volume attached to the rear of the speaker is huge. I had to peel back the sound insulation even more to remove this speaker assembly.
Note how large the plastic cavity is compared to the little speaker and my shoe.
Under the speaker assembly, the bottom of the door was completely dry, but it was dirty, so some water and grime may have entered in the past.
At this point I reconnected the battery, which was disconnected to prevent shorting something or setting off the airbag. I tested locking the door with the remote...and it worked fine--no opening the trunk.
I reassembled the door, periodically reconnecting the battery and using the remote. It still worked correctly. I road tested the car, and the trunk still didn't pop open.
I don't know what happened to fix the problem, but it seems to be fixed now!
Had the same problem a few years ago. It was a bit of grit under the switch that would move around under acceleration and trip the switch. Solution: compressed air and vacuum cleaner to really clean the area and the problem never reappeared. Try that before you start replacing parts.
OP, impressive that you tore into the door on a hunch.
The speaker in the door is a subwoofer - which is the reason for the large enclosure. If it was just a normal wide-range speaker, like the dash speakers, it wouldn't need the enclosure.
If you ever want to drive someone insane, remove the speaker from the enclosure, add a handful of loose change, and button it all back up again.
Ya, I figured it was something like that.
I have a Targa. The "regular" subwoofer was next to the passenger's left leg. It also had a large cavity, which produced a terrible resonance at 50-60 Hz. Someone described it as a "one-note fart box." I replaced it with a 10-inch Sound in Motion subwoofer that sits under the passenger's feet.
I really wanted to check for water damage, and the plastic resonator had to come out to do that. Anyway, the window is sliding up and down slower, so figure I'll have to replace the "regulator" mechanism before too long. Now I know how to get into it.
It's actually kind of funny when you own a Porsche with a MOST-bus Bose system. So much time and effort designing a ridiculously complex system that sounds far worse than the bone-stock 20-year-old AM/FM/CD/Cassette Delco unit in my '96 Corvette.
Ya, I can't wait until I replace the rest of the Bose speakers. There is another resonance around 3.0-3.1 kHz. This is right in the vocal range of some singers on some songs, producing a loud, shrill sound that makes me cringe.
^ Your mention of resonance made me think of the cars I see going down the road that sound like they're going to rattle apart every time the bass hits the car's resonant frequency. Boom...boom boom...braaaaaaaaaatgihasghalshfalksdhhsadoqah...boom. Homie needs to invest in some dynamat and tighten that damn license plate frame...
Yes. When you lift the switch to pop the frunk, the gap between it's "up" position and resting position is large enough for grit to get stuck in there and keep it slightly propped enough to trigger the mechanism randomly.
The same thing happened to me.
In addition, since the switch was "propped" up with a tiny stone, when I would lock the car and then unlock, the frunk would release simultaneously with the door locks.
Strange failure !! But easily "resolved".
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
