996 dead, jump start procedure not working

Hi everyone, I have a 2003 996 which has never given me a problem. Recently I was away for a few weeks on business and came home to the car completely dead. I unlocked the car to see the lights come on extremely dim for a short second then shut off. Battery is completely dead. I follow the pocedure in the manual for pulling the positive terminal out on the fuse box and grounding the negative to get the alarm to come on. I then proceed to lock and unlock the door but the alarm does not shut off. Further I cannot get either front or rear of the electric latches to release. So I'm at an impass. The alarm stays on while the power is being delivered through the fuse box and I cannot get to a spot to jump the car. To add to it, the remote on the key has lost its signal just recently and the car would have to be manually locked and unlocked then have the key inserted into the ignition within about 30 or so seconds to prevent the alarm from sounding. Any insight here guys? I've read a bunch of these posts prior to see, but Im wondering if it some how related to the alarm? I haven't seen something like this before. Thanks in advance guys!

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Did you connect an external power source such as a jumper pack to the red fuse box pull out terminal? I dont get what you meant by grounding the negative.

Yes, did all that. The alarm started, but won't go off. Seems like with all the other threads people alarms go right off. Mine does not.

What power source you used? You may need to connect another car battery to it. It takes a lot of power, especially with a dead battery connected in the frunk. Try turn the key to the last position before crank. That should shut off the alarm.

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^^Agreed. If that doesn't do it, try the key in the door. The system is pretty goofy when fully drained of power. You also shouldn't be jump starting the car from the panel, only using it to open the frunk/trunk/engine cover.

DONT EVEN TRY TO JUMP START A TOTALLY DEAD BATTERY. Know your radio code, open the frunk by whatever means a 2003 has, remove the battery ( IF THE BATTERY IS 5 YEARS OLD, CHANGE IT for a BOSCHE) if younger then charge it for at least 8 hours. Put it back in the car and pump in the radio code when asked for, then work from there. Totally lock the car from the fob when you are away from home any length of time in the future. A locked car takes less power from the battery when locked up correctly. That is fact on the 996.

Many strange things happen when the battery is totally dead. It seems to me your problem is not the alarm, but a dead battery. You could trickle charge overnight through the cigarette lighter just to get enough power to open the trunk or engine lid. If not, then you need to find the emergency release cables for either the trunk or engine lid so you can access the main jumper points. I would aim for getting into the trunk, and then replacing the battery. If it is that dead, a simple charge is not going to be reliable. A new battery is what you need.

Thank you all for the help. Yes, I do believe the battery has taken its toll and I am going to replace it. I'm not jumping from the panel, just using it to get the lids open. I'll try hooking up a bigger battery, I just need to get the lids open to get in and swap out. I'm using a 900CCA battery so I believe I have plenty of juice. Appreciate everyone's input.

Might take a look at the front passenger-side front intake and see if the manual release cable has been fished down somewhere you can access it. If it hasn't been, you might want to so you don't have to do this next time...

I noted today that my car has a cable release for the engine compartment lid, stored in the left (DS) taillight. I "assume" you can reach up under there somewhere and grab the cable and release the lid? Would sure help get power to the car when the battery is dead.

Yes, there's one in the back in the location you noted and one in the front on the opposite side of the car (passenger side) that many of us fish down so it can be accessed by reaching into the front bumper air intakes. The back one gets you access to the jump terminals, and the front one to the battery tray, so OP might try one or the other...

The car will remain "locked" and the alarm on until you use the coded key signal to open the door. The other possibility, maybe, is to use the key to turn the ignition on with power still connected via the fuse block. In that case the key code signal circuit is powered by a wire loop around the key cylinder. The other option is to replace the key battery.

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A battery completely without charge can usually be recovered, restored to full operational capacity over a period of 2-3 days via a simple 2A battery trickle charger. It can be recovered, after jump start, by the alternator/VR system but that may well result in the battery overheating. Once or twice is probably okay, but using this method repetitively will end up warping the battery plates.

Is there away to disconnect the alarm so that the donor battery can sit for a little bit to get enough juice into the system so the key system can turn off the alarm so that the hood and drunk will unlock? When I hook the donor battery up, alarm sounds, but the car is so dead that it doesn't even have enough power to register the key in the ignition yet to actually shut the alarm system off. If it sat for a little, then my thought is that it would get just enough juice to be able to register the key so that the alarm system can be turned off via the key to be able to pop the latch. I do not have the cable in the rear to manually release the latch. So very frustrating.

There is an emergency engine lid cable between the bottom of the left tail light and the bumper. If you gently wedge a soft scraper, like your mom used to clean the icing bowl before she let you lick the bowl, a little way in between the light and bumper you can snake the engine release cable out with a thin metal wire hook. Then use the + junction and the air cleaner bolt to charge the battery.

Maybe try pulling the alarm fuse (C 3) to be able to get a charge from the fuse block terminal?

Thanks fbp111 I'll give it a shot.

Did you try the key in the door when the alarm is sounding? Not the ignition. I vaguely remember that this solved the problem for me years ago. In my experience, the rear hatch takes less power to fire and should be your first attempt. A jumper box/extra battery to the + post in the rear can quickly get enough power to the battery to open the frunk. Then trickle charge or replace, as others have suggested. A set of noise canceling headphones to wait out the alarm for a while? Good luck and please report back.

Once you are back in business, see my thread below to avoid this problem in the future. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...e-measure.html

"Donor" battery fully charged, connections from battery to the fuse block good and solid? Voltage meter at the fuse block connection shows stable voltage..? Only had this happen 2-3 times but I seem to remember having a tough time finding a good solid ground point for the negative connection.

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Per the manual use the Chrome door latch loop on the "B" pillar.

UPDATE: The finding of that emergency release cable between the driver real tail light and the bumper was golden. Popped the rear, put a strong jump pack on the terminals to be able to power the car and disarm the alarm instantly. Jumped it right over and let it run for awhile. All is good now. After hearing about that cable, I searched and see a lot of guys run them down to under neath. I think I will do the same here. Very helpful. Thanks for all the help guys! Thanks for all the help guys.

Great to hear!!!