Window is now officially stuck open.

Hello gents Well, my drivers side window has finally crapped out. Maby somebody would be kind enough to help me diagnose exactly what's failed.- can't say I didn't see it coming as it started getting stuck/making noises a day or two prior. When I press the button to raise/lower my window I can hear my window motor making some nasty wicked noise, like a gritty, scratchy sound, like when you twist a "wind-up" toy too much. It only raises the window .5" up or down, it is stuck. I stopped Bc I didn't wanna cause further damage,sounds like a cable is getting chewed up or twisted badly in there. I assume the motor is working because I hear it trying to raise/lower the window. Maby it's the regulater? (I hope Bc a new motor is $500+). Iam going to remove my drivers side door panel and try to spot exactly what failed, what should I look for? Any advice/help would be really appreciated. 8A9F8D80-F19C-4A66-8982-8E968F75023E.jpg

Following along. Same problem but passenger side.

When my rear, passenger window had similar symptoms, problem turned out to be a busted window regulator. I opted to replace BOTH regulator + motor. Best of luck.

Window regulator is done for. Don't disconnect the airbag and you will be able to test it while the door card is off leaning against the car. If you do disconnect the airbag, after you pull the neg battery lead , don't hook the battery up until the airbag is re-connected or you will get the airbag fault light that requires a trip to the dealer to reset. Unless you have a Durametric . Window Regulator Replacement on a Porsche - YouTube just the door card Porsche 911 Carrera (996) 1999-2005 - Door panel - DIY Repair - YouTube

window regulator is a common problem. recently had my drivers side replaced.

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Same here. 878 dollars later....

Window Regulator. Funny, my '03 failed on the passenger side. And I rarely have passengers in the car. The tech who replaced it said it has adjustments and I noticed after the replacement, it had clearly been misadjusted before as it never worked as precisely and smoothly as when replaced. Cost me about $600 including our nasty 9.5% tax (Washington state).

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You can buy the porsche oem one for $300ish and DIY as well. Very easy job

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Yeah I was in a bind. Broke the night before a storm front was coming and she's my daily. Was easier to just eat the cost to minimize any disruption. Happy wife, happy life.....right?

Totally understandable

I have replaced window regulators on several cars. They are all basically the same - pretty simple job if you just take it slow. Lots of fun to do with a kid. I think tearing into a door and seeing that the window doesn't just magically go up and down is a cool learning experience.

Go here, buy two of these. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/p...egulator,10217 Remove the door card as in post 4 vid. Take a pic of the current window reg setup. Since yours is chewed already, you need to get the window to the right location to pull the mount bolts from the bottom of the window channel. Disco the battery, wait 15 minutes, then remove the airbag carefully. Some of the airbags are put on with special no-tamper screws. If you have that, the options are to cut the screws off, or buy the special tool for the airbag screws(I grind them off and repl with standard 10mm machine bolts, but that's me). Either tape the window to the door securely, or have someone stand there and hold the window while you do the reg exchange. Remove the old regulator, and watch the connector wires. Swap the motor from the old reg into the new reg, and don't let the tension come off the new regulator cable. May require three hands here, depending on your level of coordination. Install the new regulator. Depending on the model you get, there may be minimal adjusting required of the mount screws to the inside of the door. Don't be surprised, this is common with window regulators mass produced by aftermarket companies. The jig for the door may not be exact to the jig for the window reg. Fit the two arms up in place, and insure that the cable, and the elec wires will not interfere with the window as it goes up and down. Attache the reg screws loose, and then fit the window down to the regulator and put those on loose. Now, comes adjustment. I like to start with the regulator and window at the bottom of the adjustment range slot so you don't do damage to the window, or roof seal when it goes up. You can always raise it bit by bit to get a good seal but if it's too high to start it could damage the window, or snap a cable(remember I said buy two?). So, you have it all in, and adjusted down to the bottom of the channel slot. Tighten the screws to the window onto the reg asm, then tighten the screws holding the regulator to the door body. Check again for cables or wires interfering with the window movement path. Install the airbag into the door, connect the wires. Connect the wires to the window reg motor. Connect the battery terminal, leave the driver door open. Start the engine. While watching the window path, run the window up and down a few times, look for interference. If it runs ok, and doesn't have any sticky spots, or make a laboring sound, the regulator is installed ok. From inside the car, close the door with the window down. Now run it up and check that it does NOT impact the door frame, and is not canted in the frame too bad(final adjustment coming). If it goes all the way up without binding leave it there and shut off the engine, remove the key. Open the door, exit, and close the door. Check the location of the window in the seal. It should be 5-10mm too low. Look at the rear where it touches the seal there. It should be in line with the old window location. If it's canted up or down in the frame, you can adjust that out with the screws in the slots of the regulator. Open the door, make a slight adjustment up, and try to match the distance from the door edge in front and back with your adjustments. Close the door and check again. Once you get it where you like it, and it's not binding, get in, start it up, and go for a drive getting a bit faster than 45MPH. Check for wind noise. If you hear wind leaks, you need more adjustment on the regulator. If it's quiet(relatively), go back and install the door card. Keep the spare new reg because they are consumable and they only last 3-6 years depending on use and climate. Alternately, take it to Porsche, drop it off, and bring lots of Shekels when you pick it up later.

Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate the advice. Just waiting for parts to arrive now. I notice in the video and instruction to raise the window up to remove. What if I can't do that?, as it is stuck in the down position. Any ideas how I can bypass this?

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I just replaced a regulator and then a door latch mechanism a few weeks ago. You SHOULD be able to undo the clamps that hold the window to the regulator in any position but it may be more difficult. There are two screws that sort of cause a set of clamps to just squeeze the glass. The glass is a weird shape with two "flaps" that extend down about 3 or 4" below the doorsill... Absolute last resort would be to source a replacement window from a wreck and break the existing one. At least once the doorcard is off and everything exposed vacuuming the bits won't be terrible. One point to make sure of - The window regulator is a common part with the Boxster but their glass doesn't go down as far so there is a stop built in to one of the regulator "uprights". Compare the old to the new and you will find it. It pops out easily but if you install everything without removing it the window won't go down all the way and you'll be in there again. Ask me how I know. I didn't find it as easy to do as some claim. It's not horrible and if you can do a set of brakes including pads and rotors it's about that on the fiddly-ness scale. Just take your time and ask for advice when you get stuck on one of the various plastic connectors. It totally beats paying someone else hundreds of dollars though. I would do it again if need be. I did order a set of $5 trim removal tools from Amazon (4 plastic/nylon shaped wedge/prybar looking things) which helped hugely to un-pop the fasteners behind the doorcard without damaging anything as well as slowly take up the rubbery glue that holds the moisture barrier to the door. Until you do it once you are never sure how much force is too much... But it's not horrible and for once you can actually sit on your doorsill for about 90% of the job. One of the more comfortable "service positions". Good luck and don't start it a couple of hours before you have to be somewhere else...

To get the window to move up(some), have a helper hold the window from the top with both hands and have them pull up as you turn the key on, and push the switch up. It'll prolly make a grindy, crunchy sound as the cable spools around on the hub but it'll likely move up some. If they can't hold the window from the top of the channel, they can lift it from the bottom inside, but be careful not to pinch fingers in the frame. Just give it a shove straight up as the motor is running. Once it's moved up some, the removal screws for the window should be visible in one of the cutouts of the inner door panel. Plan to hear it make a crunchy sound as you run the switch. Oh well, the reg is toast already.