If You're considering doing that heater flap refoam job....

Just finished mine using the Frunk access method Easy? No. Doable? Yes A couple of hours to do and laborious? No, and yes (I've restored 8 cars and still...) Low cost? Yes. My car= 2002 996 TT. PM me if you want some tips or Q's if you're considering it. No question some very valuable posts starting with @AMCPILOT back then.

Quotes source post: 19701860

Hello, Just made my Rennlist profile so can't PM message yet. Anything you can share would be really appreciated. Knock on wood, my recently purchased '00 C2 doesn't have the foam disintegration issue, but I suspect it's only a matter of time. Cheers

Quotes source post: 19703113

...or it's already finished disintegrating.

Yes it could be finished disintegrating ( ) and thanks for the posts. SOme defintions, at least what I call them: Pivot plugs are the top and bottom plugs with slots in them that the flap attaches to in a vertical fashion. Heater flap- the aluminum flap you are refoaming. Tube- the plastic cylinder that the plugs fit into. Arms- the little arms below the dash that you will see. Also note, I did not pursue the flap that apparently is deep into the dash that I believe directs air to vents above and below. That can be an issue as well but I am not gonna screw with that nor is it throwing foam. I would suggest this to start: As mentioned go first to @AMCPILOT original post. There are a ton of subposts to that thread. The one I found especially helpful is the gent that really detailed what you need to do underneath the dash. He's even got a video on that. Other quick tips: You do not have 3-4mm available to you to cut the top cap. It is more like 1-2mm so you might find this the tough part and end up cutting into the top pivot plug. I did just a bit but with super glue repaired it and made sure it was round and smooth. You do not have to take the wiper mechanism completely out. Just detach from the bracket on the firewall. You will lose some coolant so as you undo the clamps have a small cup under the connections on the heater coil. Release the pressure at the expansion tank before starting the job; roll down the pass window and have the pass seat ALL the way back. Also run the heater on high to blast out any remaining flakes. Wrap towels on all your fenders and I put a spare bed pillow on the very front to help in your seating and protection. This is a good time to clean and vacuum out that entire front area under the plastic panels you will be removing. I also repainted all those panels including the main cowl with a VHT Satin Ba=lack for plastics. I always use Plastic Adhesion first. Once you have all the stuff out (flap, heater core) get down there with your Shop-Vac and vacuum out all the crap from the foam. You will see how and where to adhere the foam to the flap. I happened to us Frost King foam that you use to wrap hot water pipes. It's sticky for sure. You cannot take enough pictures of how things look before you disassemble as always before these jobs. Also I used PAINT MARKS to reference- the position of the top pivot plug in its orientation to the tube it is in. Makes it easy in assembly. I painted marks on the position of all the lower plastic arms and like above, the orientation of the lower plug to the tube it is in. And yes the main orientation is the way the flap goes into the dash. I simply marked one side Frunk and the other Interior. Once I covered with foam I just wrote it on the foam. It's the little things that save time. Some have said that the bottom pivot plug was real tough to get out. IME it just fell out. Almost too easy as far as that step. The toughest part is putting the bottom assembly altogether. You got the pink swing arm to slot into it's thing. Then the plug into the other arm pocket, then all that into the tube that the pivot plug resides in. You'll. Really helps to have someone moving the flap around a little from the top (my wife sat in the Frunk) so I could slot the bottom tab into the bottom pivot plug. Made it super easy. Then the top because of my paint marks was real easy. I did not try to putty the top cap you cut off of the top of the tube to remove the top pivot plug. I simply used black Gorilla tape and made sore there was not sticky to restrict rotation. When you decide to do it I would set aside the day but YMMV.

Quotes source post: 19703516

Really appreciate these tips. Thank you for sharing.

Here's my tip: You Tube

I have had the pleasure of attempting this repair. I'm usually pretty handy but this is kicking my butt. While trying to line up the blend door with the pivots, I dropped the upper pivot into the outside body cavity. It has disappeared. Does anyone know where or what part number that would be?

Quotes source post: 19718742

I have the 1000 page-plus shop manual for the 996's but I could not find a P/N. Have you visited a dealer and had them look it up? Yeah, this project takes patience.

Thanks for looking, after sleeping on it, I created a core from a chunk of starboard using a holesaw. I then cut a slot in it. It isn't pretty but worked as needed. I got the system put back together and everything works as it should!

As far as I can tell, the pivots are internal parts of the air box and they are not available. The air box is sold as an assembly only. I just completed the re-foaming of the blend doors by removing the air box and disassembling it. I had the dash removed to replace the vinyl dash with a Leather one on my wife’s car so I was already deep into interior. Mark