Clicking / buzzing in radio

Finally got my AliExpress 996 CarPlay unit to work, thanks to a local audio shop. The issue now is there is static and clicking noises coming through the audio system. I found the orginal DSP controller wrapped in cloth and stuck under the dash still hooked up. When I unplug it the buzzing stops, but the speakers go dead. There were some RCA to speaker level ohm things installed that the installer removed. Should I just get an aftermarket amp or is there an easy way to fix it. I did get my wireless charging pad I installed in my storage tray working perfect and looks factory. I�m going to make a post about that project on its own (it�s not causing the noise, I checked)!

Can you show us pics of the wireless pad? I have a PCCM+ and also have funky noises coming from the unit. Only present when my phone (or any phone) is plugged in or on BT. I have been meaning to take ti to a local shop to troubleshoot.

I will send a photo of the wireless charging setup when I get home to the car in the garage. It cost me $15 and just required a small hole be drilled in the storage box that is covered by the factory padding. I just throw my phone in and it charges. The noise seems to be present no matter what. Sometimes its worse then other times. About to just replace everything including the factory amp. The stock speakers sound good since I replaced the rotted out dash speakers with some Focals. The door speakers give off good bass. Possible someone upgraded those. Havent had the door panel off to check. There was a hiss coming from the rear speakers when everything was disconnected which makes the situation even stranger. I need to remove all the covers in the trunk and see if an aftermarket amp is already installed and hidden. My car did have a very very early headunit with apple carplay so someone spent some money on the audio system. The old one would crash constantly which led me to upgrade.

Here is a video of the sound

Apologies, that sounds extreme. Mine is a low level buzzing or fluttering noise.

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I've written on the subject countless times, I swear by never using any type of "HI/LO" converter with the factory components in these cars. It's not needed! Most people think that crackling noise and/or hum is solely from bad connections. That's NOT always the case. It can come from substandard components that have a higher than normal signal-to-noise radio or just sh*t poor electronics. Every amp and radio signal has a measurable signal-to-noise ratio. Obviously, the LOWER the noise to signal, the better. If the Chinese radio uses substandard components, it's not uncommon for the signal output to have higher NOISE in the line. Once amplified, the noise is audible. Make sense? If you're using the WRONG signal output, then the noise can be LOUDER. For example, the factory HAES amps are designed to receive a LINE LEVEL audio signal. Now, if you send a SPEAKER-LEVEL signal to the amp, the signal will OVERDRIVE the amp and noise will be audible and you'll won't have any control over volume. Common mistake. At this point, it's REALLY hard to see through all that's been cut or removed with the factory wiring. We're working blind! Also, I always advise BEFORE anyone goes into integrating an aftermarket radio with factory components (i.e. amp, signal processors, speakers, etc.) to NEVER cut the factory wiring. And, if it has been cut, put the wiring BACK to factory wiring with the correct ISO plugs and then use aftermarket wire harnesses to connect to aftermarket radios. When someone before you starts cutting the factory wiring, it's makes it almost impossible to assist you. That being said, based on what I see, you need to remove that HI/LO converter and use a proper adapter to get the LINE LEVEL signals from the radio to the amp. Most of the factory amplifiers (Pre-MOST) used the YELLOW ISO plug to feed the amp. Your amp is probably the M680 DSP Nokia or HAES amplifier since you have the audio processor unit. Did you have the original factory radio? If not, post a picture of the option tag under the hood.

I bit the bullet and just ordered a 6 channel Sony DSP amp so everything but the door and back speakers will be aftermarket. I have the entire frunk taken apart as well as the dash. Do I slice into the factory harness for the amp to get to the speakers? Which harness goes to the speakers wires, the thicker wires or the ones that come out of the big clip of wiring you remove from the front? My amp is the M680 DSP amp. My car is a 2001. I do not want to run speaker wires and have to pull anything else apart for the time being. If it sounds good I will leave it alone. If not I will replace more speakers and consider a subwoofer down the road. This Sony amp has 2 channels putting out enough power for the subwoofer. I would just unplug the rear speakers if I went that route. I can include photos when I get home and am in front of the car.

H Here is what I�m working with.

After 2 hard nights of work I removed the factory amp and soldered the wires together. Everything is hooked up to my Aliexpress head unit and I get no power. I went to a radio shop and they got it working before I added the amp. They got only the front speakers working and there was a constant clicking they said was from the factory amp. I had considered removing that anyway. Everything installed and no power when I reconnected the battery. I do not understand what the issue is. I know I need to run a wire to the amp to tell it to turn on. Where do I get that? I am going to take a voltage tester and see if the unit is getting power. I have an appointment next week at a shop if I cant figure it out. I added a 6 channel Sony amp with DSP that has the power to run subs down the road if I wanted to loose the rear speakers. I have yet to see it turn on. Even unconnected to the radio it should power up since you can run bluetooth from it directly. Really a nice amp. I hate having my beautiful car sitting in the garage during this beautiful weather all taken apart. I just want a radio that works....wireless apple carplay was the original goal. Hard to go from having it to not.

You need to get your remote wire from your head unit.

Got the unit to power on. Now my issue is getting signal to my aftermarket amp. The amp had Bluetooth it can play directly from and that seems to work great with all 6 speakers playing clearly, but the RCAs are giving me no sound. Is there a setting? I think I got it now, actually the amp needed two turn on wires. Hopefully when I go home, I can attach the second turn on wire and the problem will be solved. Reading forum posts from audio people who have experience with the same amp helped.