24 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHPossible Big Engine Problem
Leading reported evidence
Replace oil
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
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Leading evidence: 'Replace oil' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'crank position sensor' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check dipstick' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I think my next step is ordering a new starter, I looked back at my log and I replaced the starter about 9 years / 40,000 miles ago.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Replaced with a brand new Bosch starter from Amazon.
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Suspected cause
If it was zero, it�s likely the crank position sensor.
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Suggestion
The problem with replacing the starter and not inspecting the flywheel is that your flywheel could be damaged, either broken, which is causing the issue, or now has some bad teeth from the bad starter.
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24 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T163944Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I'm looking for some input on my situation. As I was pulling into the garage today the motor died. I thought I must have stalled it, so I tried to crank it but I only got a whirring sound. Not wanting to do any potential damage, I pushed it the last 4' into the garage. Codes read misfire on cylinders 1 & 6. Plus code 31 fresh air blower fault - which I assume is unrelated. No unusual noises prior to it stalling. Is there anything else I should check on the Durametric without trying to crank again? Is my next step taking a look at the oil / filter? I have an IMS Guardian, that has not gone off, so I do not think there is metallic debris in the sump. I also have an IMS Solution so I do not think it's the bearing. Oil has been changed regularly with DT40. I've owned the car for 13 years so I'm pretty familiar with it's history.
Did you happen to notice if the tach was bouncing when you were cranking it? If it was zero, it�s likely the crank position sensor.
But agree with pulling the oil filter first.
Any bad or weird noises or other running drama in the last days?
I did not notice the tach.
No weird or bad noises, but interesting that you ask about running drama. On Saturday night driving home after a long day I did have a little jerky spot that lasted like 1 second. I can't remember it exactly, but at the time I brushed it off. I was mid conversation with my passenger and driving in the city, so lot's of start/stop between stop signs. I assumed I had nearly stalled it, and muscle memory saved it by clutching in. All this being said, I've owned the car 13 years, driven it for roughly 80,000 miles, and in all that time I can count on one hand how many times I've killed it.
Earlier today I dove it without any problems for roughly 50 miles mostly on the interstate with a 70 mph speed limit.
A "whirring sound" as a symptom/description from a non-professional doesn't exactly give the best info for diagnosing where to go next....If you could do a video/audio of the no start condition, it would give much insite into your issue for recommendations..
A whirring sound doesn't give off horrible indications, and since any damage probably has already been done, then no reason not to replicate the symptom and record the video/audio. ( that's the first thing a shop will do anyway)....
Yes, the whirring sound did sound like a starter to me. It would just be super weird if the starter died right after the motor shut off. I did replace the starter motor about 5 years ago pro-actively. I already had easy access to it while working on something else.
I put in a rebuilt starter and it crapped out within two years. Replaced with a brand new Bosch starter from Amazon. Still all good. Given the PITA job, a brand spanking new starter will fix you up for a long time.
I'd try to start it again. Maybe bump the key on/off a few times if it doesn't catch the first time. Also might put car in 3rd gear and move car a few inches to reposition the flywheel. Might work if the solenoid is just weak. Then you can confirm the motor is ok. If it still just whirrs, then maybe try below....
If you're really worried about that coincident and want to check you engine, jump start it. Get a friend/neighbor to give you a little push, pop the clutch in 2nd gear with ignition key in the on position. just have to be rolling at a quick walking pace. Should fire right up. Once it starts right up, be ready to push in the clutch...
jmo
Good on the clean oil filter. Agreed there is no tach movement, but that is not a normal engine cranking sound. It's not clear to me that the engine was turning. It is weird that the engine would quit running and then you would immediately have a bad starter. Maybe the starter has gone bad, but I doubt it's the cause of the stall. This sound is new with this problem, right? My current recommendation is to get the starter out and get it tested.
Anyone else with comments on the starter noise?
Agreed.
I might try and turn the engine by hand. I think I can do that by jacking up one side, and spinning a tire in 6th gear, correct? I believe I've read there's not enough room to fit a socket on the crank pulley. And yes, oil level is good on the dipstick. My digital readout sometimes says 100% full, sometimes says 2 bars down. I trust the dipstick more than the digital.
That's the most likely issue, agreed. OP, has the car been exhibiting any starting issues prior to this?
I suspect that the codes have nothing to do with the starting issue BTW.
Thanks for posting the Audio/video, that sound is suspicious.!! ( almost like a "0 compression sound" )
Have someone turn the key to start while you observe the engine to see if the belt is turning the accessories..
( I'm thinking possibly a broken timing chain or an IMS gear is slipping on the shaft)
When I crank, the accessory belt does not move, so it seems my 0 rpm reading is correct. I think I can rule out a bad crank sensor. The engine does spin freely by hand. So, it seems the extremely unlikely scenario is that I did indeed stall it (for probably only the 3rd or 4th time ever in 13 years), and it is a bad starter. I think my next step is ordering a new starter, I looked back at my log and I replaced the starter about 9 years / 40,000 miles ago.
Sounds like the starter is grinding against the flywheel.
The problem with replacing the starter and not inspecting the flywheel is that your flywheel could be damaged, either broken, which is causing the issue, or now has some bad teeth from the bad starter.
Well, everyone who said starter was correct. I put new one and it fired up, made it to lunch and back no problem. I'm still in awe of the unbelievable coincidence that the starter died after I stalled it. Like I said before I've only ever stalled this car 3-4 times over the last 13 years. Wasn't too bad of a job, probably less than 2 hours. I mostly followed the Pelican book, but the Bentley book had a great tip showing you can sneak a series of extensions under an idler to get to the lower starter bolt.
Well it happens.... this orange jeep in front with 62k miles had a bad starter for no reason on a trail in moab last week. It turned into a 4200lb trail plug until we could get him pulled foward. At least u were in your driveway.
Yeah, trail breakages can be not fun, especially when it's not related to trail use.
I had a slight delay in Moab in spring when this Jeep broke it's rear upper control arm brackets which caused the axle to twist and break the driveshaft. It was a triangulated setup, so there was no track bar.
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